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Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

  Headlights won't pop up...


1993 240SX vert, and my headlights won't pop up when I turn the switch on. They light up just fine. They will pop up only when I either hit the switch that raises them or if I flash the high beams... They work fine then! Is there some sort of relay or something that is supposed to trigger the lights to go up when I turn the headlights on?



My baby...
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93 240SX vert. too, WIP

"68% of Republicans don't believe in evolution, on the other hand, only 5% of monkey's believe in Republicans." ---Stephen Colbert

s13sr20chris



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4350 posts
nissans
newport news virginia
6-10-2003

 « Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)


yeah, there are like 6 or so relays actually. its a pretty complex circuit but fixable im sure. obviously the hardware works so thats really good. i would double check the lamp switch since you can do it with the high beams and open/close switch. if that checks ok i will put up a copy of the wiring diagram.



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Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)


How do I check the switch? Is there something specific I should check?
s13sr20chris



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nissans
newport news virginia
6-10-2003

 « Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)



s13sr20chris



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4350 posts
nissans
newport news virginia
6-10-2003

 « Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)


and now that i am not being lazy i will show you the wiring diagrams! see in the second one why i suggest starting with the switch. the switch is easier. you just pull the switch off and test for continuity at the terminals that are connected by the black lines.
Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Please help???


Ok, I finally had a little time tonight to troubleshoot this. I did this cause my passenger side light decided to not go down anymore. I traced it to the grey retract relay in the relay box just behind the headlight. I put a used one in and that solved that problem. (I am going to get a new grey relay tomorrow at Nissan.)

I then went in the console and changed the headlight switch to see if that was the problem. It wasn't. It did the same thing... except the healights won't even come up now when I hit the high beams... not with either headlight switch! Who knows why this is. I don't know if this changed before or after I swapped out the relay.

Is there a relay or relays that make the lights go up when you turn the lights on?

---Dan

Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Please help??? (Danrc30)


Ok, I just put the new relay in, and the high beams work the headlights again. They will go up and down when i hit the high beams, but still will not go up when I turn the lights on. Can someone please tell me which relay is next in line to replace? Please... any suggestions will be appreciated.
Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)


Anyone?

Please????????

s13sr20chris



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4350 posts
nissans
newport news virginia
6-10-2003

 « Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)


hmmmm, did you try whacking the headlamp timer unit?
Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)


Quote, originally posted by s13sr20chris »
hmmmm, did you try whacking the headlamp timer unit?

Not yet. Where is it located?

s13sr20chris



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nissans
newport news virginia
6-10-2003

 « Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30)


by the drivers feet. its a small box. im not sure if its behind the knee bolster or behind the kick panel.
Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris)


Quote, originally posted by s13sr20chris »
by the drivers feet. its a small box. im not sure if its behind the knee bolster or behind the kick panel.

Could I get a better descrition of the box? Color maybe? Thanks.

NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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Where did this replacement head light switch come from? New or used? The box is either white or green. The fact the lights do jump up when 2 other options are used leads me to the switch as it did Chris. I will breeze through the diag and see if I can give your a better guess to hang a part [since it is your money] but it would be more cost effective for you if you tested some circuits to determine what exactly is failing in the system. Not slammin you here just trying to save you some green back.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
Where did this replacement head light switch come from? New or used? The box is either white or green. The fact the lights do jump up when 2 other options are used leads me to the switch as it did Chris. I will breeze through the diag and see if I can give your a better guess to hang a part [since it is your money] but it would be more cost effective for you if you tested some circuits to determine what exactly is failing in the system. Not slammin you here just trying to save you some green back.

The switch was used but it was from my parts car and the lights did work properly on that car. Since I have the parts car, I don't mind swappibg parts back and forth to see what the problem is.

As far as tesing circuits goes, I'm about as fluent with electronic circuits as Paris Hilton is with reality.

Sorry to put you guys through this, but like I said, I can just start swapping parts from the parts car. I just need to know what to start swapping first!

NISTECH

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The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.
Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.

Ok, found it and swapped them out. But it didn't work...

I'm so frustrated... it makes no sense....

NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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Did you check the fuse?

you have swapped all possible parts from one car to the other at this point so this leads to a wiring issue. You need to get a volt meter and figure out how to use it and start testing. I will help walk you through it. This is the only way you are going to find this problem.

Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Yes, the fuse is good.
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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I will say this though. once you test this circuit you will be very proficent at testing things as this is one of the more complex [stupid] circuits nissan engineers came up with.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


hahaha.... ok, so where do I begin my fist lesson?
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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You need to test terminal 3 for power when you turn the head lamp switch to headlights. The black lead on your meter goes to a good ground, in the area your working in the steering coloum boot studs coming through the firewall are good ones. Test to make sure you have a good ground by touching the red lead of your meter to the backs of some of the fuses where the slots are on the fuses back side.[this also how to check fuses without pulling them out] when you see 12 volts you connection is good. now poistion your head light timer control unit so you can back probe the connector while its plugged into the unit. Locate terminal 3 and test it. terminal 3 is the one directly below the push clip to release the connector. It should be red with a blue tracer.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Ok. I pulled the fuse and with no key in and no lights on, the left side of the fuse has 12 volts, and the right side has nothing (when you're looking at the fuse box of course).

I put the fuse back in and tested the red/blue wire you suggested. I get nothing until I turn the parking lights on. They come on, and then that wire has power. I tested it fron the front while the black box was unplugged and with it plugged into the box.

What's next?

(this is going to turn into a great troubleshooting reference guide for a lot of people... lol)

NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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Ok still at the time control unit you need to test for power on terminal 9 the same way. terminal 9 is orange and is located at the end terminal right next to another orange wire that is the second terminal in. you want to test only the end one at this point.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
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12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Ok, When I test this wire and hit the headlights, it jumps to around .09 and then quickly goes down to .02 to .04 volts. It does nothing when I just hit the parking lights.
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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disconnect it and test it. you should see 12 volts
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Disconnected it and I got nothing.
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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ok you now need to move to the headlight switch and check for power at terminal 26. see Chris's post with the combination switch for the location of that terminal. it is a orange with black tracer wire in that connector. you need to remove the covers behind your steering wheel, but you do not need to remove the steering wheel to gain access to the connectors.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Getting 12 volts on that wire when the headlight switch turns on.
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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you have found the wire thats the problem, BTW that wire you tested at the head light switch is a direct feed to the last wire you tested at the timing control unit. Seem odd to you why at this end of the wire you have 12volts and at the other end you have almost nothing??

I think I know your problem but we want to check for voltage at one other location. remove retract relay #4 and check for power at terminal #1. the relay is in the box at the right of the engine compartment. the wire color is orange. My guess is you wont see any power there either but you should. If not we need to find the diode block, let me know what you come up with on your test and I will look for the diode block.

Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


I pulled the relay (this is the same one I replaced a few days ago) and looked inside and saw a little number 1. I went to that terminal and turned the lights on. I got .02 volts.
NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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make sure that wire is the orange one your testing. The numbers on top of the relay dont represent the terminal locations.
NISTECH

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If you are sure that terminal was the orange wire the next thing your gonna test is the diode pack located behind your pocket below your radio. once you get 2 it you will see the 2 wires you have been testing on one end of the diode pack[orange with black tracer and orange].
with it still together back probe the wires and check for power again. this is the part I believe has failed. if you see power on one side but not the other this is your failed part, you can either swap it from your parts unit or you can jumper those 2 wires to test it, if your lights now work you need to permanantly replace that diode pack.

if you dont have power on either side post back.

Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Ok, I just took it apart and saw that I wasn't testing the orange wire. I did test it and when I turned the lights on I got 0 volts.

I then took my radio out and lookd for the black box behind the pocket, but I couldn't find it anywhere. Do you have any pics of what it looks like and where it's located?

NISTECH

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Its not a black box, it looks like a connector with a plug in it. if you look at it from the end it looks like it has a bunch of arrows on it.
Danrc30



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93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


YES! THAT WAS IT!!! IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!! HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!!!! YOU DA BOMB!!!!

Now, I gotta ask you this... at what point did you know that was my problem? Did I have to tear all of those other things apart to figure it out, or could we have switched that in the beginning to see if that was the problem?

NISTECH

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I knew right before you rechecked the relay under the hood the last time.
NISTECH

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More when you tested the headlight switch and told me it had power out of that line and the time control unit didnt I suspected it right then. They dont usually go out.
NISTECH

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Yes you had to tear all that apart to test the circuit to find out, I try to stay away from guessing when I am unsure of the problem with a car because it can cost the customer money, so I will spend a little more time then what the customer was estimated, especialy if I am unsure of how long it will take me to find the problem. I know you have a car you can rip parts off of to fix this one but sometimes that can take longer then the testing will. Doing the test through the forums took quite some time but in real world cicumstances I would have found that problem in less then an hour.

Question for you now though. Do you feel more confident in your circuit testing skills? do you understand what you were testing and why? other then the whole picture, I mean why you were testing that particular wire. If you under stand what it was you were doing you will most definitly be able to takle something like this in the future with much more ease and likely with out assistance as long as you have a diagram and know how to trace the power flow of the circuit.

Danrc30



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564 posts
93 240SX convertible, 81 DeLorean, 81 280ZX Turbo, 85 300ZX Turbo, 00 4Runner Ltd., 90 RC30
NJ
12-8-2004

 « Re: (NISTECH)


Ok, I know how to use a meter and find voltages and stuff, but I have a hard time reading wiring diagrams. I just haven't developed an aptitude for it yet and I get lost. I think I need someone to show me in person what to look for and how to troubleshoot. I did figure out on my own the other day that the retract relay was bad. I used the diagram and solved the problem... I'm just not very confident in this area.

I took that piece apart and I saw where it burnt out on the lil circuit board. Lil piece of crap... I have no idea why it's there and why they put it where they did. Often Nissan engineering makes no sense.

I now see exactly what you were doing, but I wouldn't have been able to follow that myself by using the book mainly because I had no idea where those parts were that we were testing...

NISTECH

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5-25-2003

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That part is there to prevent back feed voltage when another feed is put into that wire. It acts as a gate only allowing voltage to flow one way. back in the 90's the engineers had a hard on for those things, they are all over the car. They still use them today but far fewer of them.
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