The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Really the only thing that can go wrong with them is if the boot tears, they lose the grease and then they click sometimes... or you can strip out the splines, but like I said, that's pretty rare.

You can try putting your E-brake on and trying to drive (slipping the clutch) and have someone look around/under your car to see if anything is amiss.

Are you saying if I slip the clutch with the brake on, that if there's a problem with one it should be turning one one end, or something? I do have an open diff, so if one was just not transmitting power the car wouldn't go at all, and there's no slip or anything, just a siezing from the rear end on tight corners, hard acceleration, rough surfaces, or a combination of those.

I think the brake holds the car quite well against the motor, though I haven't tried as of late. A few thousand miles ago I though I'd just parked in gear and tried to start with the brake on, and it stalled right away without moving the car at all.

If it's not a CV joint, what could make that sort of noise and problem? I was thinking severely damaged and worn splines that are siezing when they get too much power in a situation where the diff doesn't transfer it. There's no recent grease splatter and no tear, but the underbody is filthy, there could be a tiny hole or a leak around an end that's slowly bled it dry over the last 20 years.

Couldn't be a diff problem, could it? It's got the right amount of clean oil as of a year ago, and the gears where worn but not chipped or broken, worn in an even way and not too much.

Not sure man, "making a funny noise" is a tough thing to diagnose over the internet. You're going to have to investigate further yourself. If the axle boot was torn even a little and grease was coming out, it would be ALL OVER the underside of the car. If the axle is slipping, then you should be able to see the axle turning and the car not moving. In that case, you'll need a new axle AND hub.

[usererror]

will automatic center bearing support brackets work on a manual drive shaft center bearing? i was able to find the the brackets for a manual but apparently they are not made anymore.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Yeah they should. The only thing that changed on automatics was the rear section of the driveshaft.

[4ofclubs]

My 92 240sx power window circuit breaker behind the fuse panel keeps clicking about every 20 seconds or so(i have to disconnect my battery to make it stop). My windows do work though, if it wasnt for the breaker clicking i wouldnt have thought there was anything wrong. Ive pulled the breaker and replaced it with the one right next to it and it still clicks, ive glanced over the wires and dont see anything wrong. I have also taken out the ignition relay via m9 according to the fsm and it is still clicking. I have checked my ground behind the rear seat m116 but havnt checked m57 because it looks difficult to get to. My automatic seatbelts dont seem to be working either...dont know if thats a separate issue or not. Am i going to have to dig for ground m57 and check it or can someone please send me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Your automatic seatbelts can be diagnosed/replaced for free. They are covered under a Nissan lifetime warranty.

The only thing I could think of about your windows is maybe the switch is sticking? Does it click when in the fully up or down position, or does it do it while partially open as well?

[4ofclubs]

yeah unfortunately it still clicks whether they're half way down all the way down or all the way up, even if i disconnect both switches completely.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

So the fuse is clicking? Fuses usually don't click, they just blow...
It's probably something other than the fuse that is clicking. Maybe look behind the fuse panel.

[4ofclubs]

the circuit breaker behind the fuse panel, round and black. Its supposed to be to the circuit of the power windows, m7 in the fsm. I thought it might be the breaker itself but i took the one right next to it and switched it but it still keeps doing it.

[speakeasy]

So the guy I bought my S13 from modified the driver's side a bit more than I had originally expected. Seems like an entire section of the floor has been cut out and a new piece welded in order to get his racing seat to fit As such, I can't get the S14 I just bought to bolt in. Does anyone know what that part circled in red is called, and where I could purchase one? Really need to get this seat in ASAP since my inspection is due soon.

[edit]not my car btw, just a screenshot from some youtube video

[4ofclubs]

Looking at a parts site they're calling it a "front seat reinforcement" and then a "2nd cross member" lays over those. there's also supposed to be two small brackets below everything which the site is calling "2nd cross member lh and rh." Im not sure of what exactly the rules are on listing websites so if you want a link to it pm me.

[speakeasy]

Looking at a parts site they're calling it a "front seat reinforcement" and then a "2nd cross member" lays over those. there's also supposed to be two small brackets below everything which the site is calling "2nd cross member lh and rh." Im not sure of what exactly the rules are on listing websites so if you want a link to it pm me.

Yeah I was looking at a parts site, you aren't referring to part code 74330M are you? Cause I don't think that's it. It's still there on the passenger's side for me, and there's nothing on top of it other than the carpet, but the driver's side, including the area where that hump in the floor is (for the cat i think?) has been replaced to accommodate the previous owner's racing seat :|

I'll go take a picture of what my car looks like (91 240sx Coupe) so you guys can get a better idea of what I need. I'm absolutely dying to get this car on the road.

[4ofclubs]

Yeah that's the site, i love that site! Well from the looks of it the owner before you replaced both members or whatever, and looks like they cut out all 3 layers of the old members.

[speakeasy]

This is the pic I took of my car from the driver's side. The part that I had circled in red should go over where those wires are, and the front part of the seat bolts into it. The holes in the floor where the back part of the seat bolt into are missing as well, but that shouldn't be too hard to solve. The hole in the floor you see in the above pic is where the previous owner mounted his racing seat, which is a bit further back of where the seat is supposed to be (guy was selling the car cause he couldn't fit inside with his helmet on).

Are there really 3 layers? I checked under the carpet of the passenger's side and all that seems to be necessary is that one piece.

I just need something I can mount my seats on that can mount onto the car itself. Are there any after market solutions that don't cost hundreds of dollars?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can just make your own if you have a welder and some ambition. It probably wouldn't be any harder than re-installing/welding in the factory replacement part anyway.

[speakeasy]

Well, I got the ambition, but no welder. One way or another though, I'm going to get that seat in there (in a manner that doesn't compromise my safety).

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'm a strong believer that any S13 owner should also be a welder owner

[speakeasy]

Ha, well maybe once I have my own house and garage... until then I'll have to hire a mercenary. I've made phonecalls to see if I can rip that part out of a junk car, haven't found one yet but found a guy who's willing to weld it for me.

Also, the bottom seat cushion on my rear seat isn't attached to anything... What do I have to do to get it to stay in place?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It should bolt into that hump in the floor on both sides of the car if I'm not mistaken.

[mechanicalmoron]

Ha, well maybe once I have my own house and garage... until then I'll have to hire a mercenary. I've made phonecalls to see if I can rip that part out of a junk car, haven't found one yet but found a guy who's willing to weld it for me.

Also, the bottom seat cushion on my rear seat isn't attached to anything... What do I have to do to get it to stay in place?

Rear seat cushon has some sort of quick release system, I think.... no bolts necessary.

You could go to the guy, and tell him you either need the chunk he cut out or a seat that fits it, if he sold it to you saying it "just" needed a seat.

Who puts in a racing seat with an automatic 3-point belt, anyways?

[Toxsyl]

Do I need to alter my ac unit when I do a S14 SR20det swap in my 98 240?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I want to say no, you can keep the KA's, but don't quote me on that. I'm not 100% sure.

[danshaz82]

im swapping KAs in the next few weeks. i know i should get a new throw out bearing. question is does it matter what one i get? i have a spec stage 2+ clutch

[PapaSmurf2k3]

It shouldn't. I've never heard of any brand having a "bad batch" of throwout bearings or anything like that.

[danshaz82]

ok cool. i wasnt sure if i had to get a specific TOB for a specific clutch set up. thanks.

[Mitchum]

Im looking to replace my timing set on my S14 SR20DET, I have a tensioner and chain, but i need guides(mine is cracked). i found part numbers on another thread (ending in 000#) none of which worked at my local nissan dealer or crossed at the jobbers. can someone tell me the actual nissan OEM part numbers for the guides? bolts?and gasket?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

You can try checking Courtesyparts.com. You can probably find it through their search engine.

[bigmurph]

So i'm new here as you can tell, and I have saved up some money and really want to get a 240. was just wondering what i should be looking for when I buy it, suggested mods, best type/year, etc. ANY advice will be appreciated as I am just getting into this kind of stuff, Thanks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Well on your S13 models (89-94), you have 2 "major" options. 89 and 90 models have a single overhead cam, and a "pignose" front bumper. 91-94 (94 only coming in convertible) models have dual overhead cam, and a "shark-nose" front bumper. Both engines are pretty darn good, with the DOHC having slightly more aftermarket support.

240s (like most Nissans of the time and earlier) suffer from rust. Check the rocker panels and the strut towers. Also, if you are looking at an S13 hatchback, and it has a factory spoiler on it, you can pretty much bank on there being rust under that bad boy.

Other than that, some S13s suffer from some wiring harness issues (engine room harness maybe, causing erratic idle/timing, speed sensor harness issues causing no speedometer function, etc). S13s generally have crappy seats. S14 (95-98) seats bolt right in.

The engines, transmissions, and rear differentials are pretty bullet proof, although they can suffer from the general oil leaks, etc.

[bigmurph]

I was looking at this one:
http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicle ... Z396917434

any thoughts?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Definitely worth taking a look at. That would be a little on the pricey side here in the US, although it doesn't seem too bad for Canada.