The "I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread" v2.0

[mechanicalmoron]

That makes sense, but:

Only one bad cylinder-wouldn't a head gasket probably mean more than one?It runs at the right temp, no big loss of coolant, etc.

no antifreeze on plug I dont think, just gas and carbon, never had antifreeze in oil, or vice-versa, and I've taken a peek under the valve cover, didn't check gaps but there was no visible problem.

And it sounds okay, other than not firing.

If this still sounds like it...... I guess I'll start thinking about a motor.....

I've looked for a motor before this, but had a hard time finding a good deal thats not crazy far from me here or on CL, or one from people who don't just seem to be scammers-any tips? How to find a junkyard or private seller nearby?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Time is your friend when looking for an engine. Hit up our classifieds, or even CL and whatnot. Sometimes people have good deals and don't mind shipping, or it will be missing something that YOU have, like an oil pan, etc.

[mechanicalmoron]

I went by to visit my car, and tried running it without injector 2 plugged in.

It ran just as rich.

So you guys DON'T think that it could be a bad o2 sensor or something, and 2 is just getting totally flooded out, because the whole thing is so rich?

I know I'm probably grasping at straws..... but it sure would be nice if one of those straws was connected to something.... I was really hoping that this motor would last until I found a new one, so I could swap it on my terms. As it is.... I'm looking for a 4door daily driver to let me play with this with less pressure on.

[speedeast]

A head gasket break can have several different effects. It could simply break between the cylinder and a coolant channel causing coolant to get into the cylinder and exhaust to get into the coolant. It could break at an oil drain, which means there is no oil pressure there; therefore, coolant would get into oil but oil wouldn't get into the coolant. It could also break on an oil pressure line, which means oil and coolant would exchange contaminating both. A crack in the head would have several similar attributes, but not as likely as the gasket.

[sonny1335]

i have a 93 coupe. it has an RB20 in it. im having a few problems. This is the first time with a turboed car so im new to that part of the scene. a couple days ago the car was idleing kinda high around 12-13 hundred rpm, and today is the first day that i drove it around for around an hour or so. before i started driving it today it was still idleing high. when ever i get on it it seems like itll hesistate untill i hit around 4k then it the full power kicks in. its running 11 pounds of boost. i have a SAFC II in it. and i know that the blow of valve is not recirculated (its a greddy type r). so about the time i decided to go home it started idle lower than usual and now if i get on it and put it into neutral it will go as low as 500 rmps then almost die. The car is in the garage and if i rev it up a lil itll do the same thing and die. any idead or help guys? i appreciate in advance. P.s the old owner of the car said it might need new plugs.. Could plugs cause all of this? What type of plugs could i put in the rb20? and could i get them at a local part store or am i going to have to order it? Same question for plug wires too! Sorry if im a noob i just want to get the car running good. it also gets worse when the car is warmed up. on another note, is there any spark plugs from a diff car that i could use on my rb20? so i can just go to like an advance auto parts and tell them what i need.

[mechanicalmoron]

It probably idles high because it's cold.

It may need plugs or something, or the idle may have been adjusted while the motor wasn't warmed up right, if the RB uses an iacv.

Anyways, it will idle high until it's well warmed up-try to go easy on it until it has decided it's warm enough and can run normally, if you love your car.

The reason you get a surge in power around 4k is that there's enough exhaust pressure to spin the turbo up, so it's actually getting boost.

[alwaysstaysideways]

My friend is selling me a 240sx. Its a nissan, twin cam motor, s14, 1998, it needs a new gasket and it has 170 miles on it. The car has also been in a crash, the car is crash from the back and most of the damage is on the right. The bumper is badly dent and so is the car frame of the trunk. It needs a new battery but my friend said if i buy it that he will put a new battery. I'm gonna have to buy new tail lights. So is this a good deal? And how much will it be for the body work and for the cost of a new gasket plus the labor for it?

[alwaysstaysideways]

My friend is selling me a 240sx. Its a nissan, twin cam motor, s14, 1998, it needs a new gasket and it has 170 miles on it. The car has also been in a crash, the car is crash from the back and most of the damage is on the right. The bumper is badly dent and so is the car frame of the trunk. It needs a new battery but my friend said if i buy it that he will put a new battery. I'm gonna have to buy new tail lights. So is this a good deal? And how much will it be for the body work and for the cost of a new gasket plus the labor for it?

[phoenixbird]

Hi guys, I just got into 240sx's when my friend introduced me to how cool they are. I'm actually on the market for a 1998 240SX LE (Black), so if anyone knows where I may find one, please point me in the right direction. I'm totally open to advice and cool facts about the car.
A bit of background on me: I work on WWII Jeeps, attend college and drive a trashy Honda Civic DX, which I'll replace with the LE.

[speedeast]

Welcome, but why replace the Honda. I know what you're thinking, it's a Honda. Its a good reliable car and it would give you the opportunity to really bring some of the potential out of the 240 if it isn't the only car you have.

[Buttons06]

So, I've posted in the CA section before annnnnnnnnnnd... I guess this is a belated hello post lol
Well, to start, I got a '95 240sx in 07 stayed stock KA the whole way. Got with it reading 265k miles, but the odometer was already locked up. I drove it basically til I ended up with fried rings and a bad rod bearing and my compression was too low to start it up again. I loved it, but hated that it was an automatic. It only died like 2 years ago (after my brother decided to go take it, which he also managed to smash the passenger fender into a tree).

Anyway, a few months ago I started lurking the forums here, learning as I went. Decided I wanted to try a CA swap into my S14, but haven't managed to get the money together, being on a bit of a budget atm. Had about a grand and some change, and then I saw my current beauty. A '90 s13 hatchback SE with 148k miles. I just picked it up yesterday for $1000. It's fine, far as I can tell, just been sitting around for a year, so the old gas makes it run crappy, it's got hoses bursting (literally 20 minutes ago had a coolant line burst on me), windows don't roll up, windshield wipers don't work, and the problem that kept the previous owner from driving it - a bad solenoid. Also desperately needed an oil change and all the other basic tune up stuff, but that's been taken care of. It idles smoothly, runs decent until it sucks up some crap fuel, and it starts pretty much all the time, just gotta bridge it. I wanna get it running reliably while I work on my s14 w/ ca swap, so here I am. Figure you guys can help me out with anything I may not be very familiar with on the KA - I never really did much besides the basic stuff to my s14's KA, because honestly, I was a noob at this whole thing then.

Huge wall of text, I know. But HELLO FORUMS

[mechanicalmoron]

Where can I find a manual KADE ECU that will work in a 92 SE? GIs there any difference between anything like HICAS or non-HICAS computers? How much should I expect to pay? I could only find autos on ebay, maybe I didn't search for the right things.

*edit* http://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-1994-Nissa ... d5&vxp=mtr

would the black stamped number matter? I think that one says 212, mine says 1x24.

I've been getting a code 12, mafs, since before this injector sticking problem (which I've determined to be a stuck ground is the ecu, telling the injector to keep.... injecting) but the car ran mostly fine, if lean, before. I've heard carb cleaner will do it, does that mean while it's in and running? because that sounds scary/dangerous. Can i take it out, spray B12 chemtool on it, and stick it back?

[I'm Redline]

<---- Total Newb to 240SX's

I just got my '96 Zenki and have a few issues to clear up woth it first, such as, a new windshiled(Friday 13th), correcting an emmisions gripe for the check engine light(two codes, knock sensor, O2 sensor), and maybe getting a bit of Pacific Blue paint on it. I do not plan on any body kit stuff, but do plan on making the little 155hp NA KA24DE a bolt on improved bit of performance(Cams, Ignition, Computer reprogram, Intake, Headers back, suspension, brakes...you know, a little more hp, and handling for a sweet little sleeper)

Yeah, long term vs short term goals. I look forward to learning here and doing as much as I can with my really nice little car.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i have a 93 coupe. it has an RB20 in it. im having a few problems. This is the first time with a turboed car so im new to that part of the scene. a couple days ago the car was idleing kinda high around 12-13 hundred rpm, and today is the first day that i drove it around for around an hour or so. before i started driving it today it was still idleing high. when ever i get on it it seems like itll hesistate untill i hit around 4k then it the full power kicks in. its running 11 pounds of boost. i have a SAFC II in it. and i know that the blow of valve is not recirculated (its a greddy type r). so about the time i decided to go home it started idle lower than usual and now if i get on it and put it into neutral it will go as low as 500 rmps then almost die. The car is in the garage and if i rev it up a lil itll do the same thing and die. any idead or help guys? i appreciate in advance. P.s the old owner of the car said it might need new plugs.. Could plugs cause all of this? What type of plugs could i put in the rb20? and could i get them at a local part store or am i going to have to order it? Same question for plug wires too! Sorry if im a noob i just want to get the car running good. it also gets worse when the car is warmed up. on another note, is there any spark plugs from a diff car that i could use on my rb20? so i can just go to like an advance auto parts and tell them what i need.

Plugs might cause a misfire here and there, but it wouldn't cause the problem you're seeing. Definitely check your coolant temp sensor and IACV. Shake the wires around both sensors and make sure there's no funny business going on.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

My friend is selling me a 240sx. Its a nissan, twin cam motor, s14, 1998, it needs a new gasket and it has 170 miles on it. The car has also been in a crash, the car is crash from the back and most of the damage is on the right. The bumper is badly dent and so is the car frame of the trunk. It needs a new battery but my friend said if i buy it that he will put a new battery. I'm gonna have to buy new tail lights. So is this a good deal? And how much will it be for the body work and for the cost of a new gasket plus the labor for it?

"a new gasket" ?? What gasket?

"a good deal"?? What is the price?
"How much will it be for the body work" ?? What body work? Post pictures.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

and the problem that kept the previous owner from driving it - a bad solenoid. \

What solenoid?

[Buttons06]

and the problem that kept the previous owner from driving it - a bad solenoid. \

What solenoid?

Heh starter solenoid. Forgot to specify lol

[infin8]

Hi everyone, this will be my first post here.

I have a very simple question, I traded my SUV for a 1989 240sx with a RB20DET engine, and I just realized that the owner did not give me a spare key..... Im sketching out and he seemed like a pretty nice guy but you never know these days. I dont have the money for an alarm system...but I do plan on doing some killswitches and possibly buy some pedal locks or something. What are some ways to fully protect your car from thieves. Im probably overthinking things.... -_-

[mechanicalmoron]

Hi everyone, this will be my first post here.

I have a very simple question, I traded my SUV for a 1989 240sx with a RB20DET engine, and I just realized that the owner did not give me a spare key..... Im sketching out and he seemed like a pretty nice guy but you never know these days. I dont have the money for an alarm system...but I do plan on doing some killswitches and possibly buy some pedal locks or something. What are some ways to fully protect your car from thieves. Im probably overthinking things.... -_-

KIllswitch on the fuel pump relay is easy.

If you wanna monkey with it, you could probably mod the handbrake and make a lock for it's ratchets. My ka can't begin to start against my brake, they'd have to cut the cable to move it, yours might have the balls to, though.

You could just get a quality alarm, if you're that worried. To be super cheap, you might be able to rig a relay so that if someone started it without hitting another switch first, it would turn the horn on so it won't turn off.

I wouldn't worry that the guy who sold it to you would steal it, you do realize he could give you ten keys, and still have a duplicate, right.... But it's a car people like stealing. And it's so small, any professional outfit would just drag it onto a truck and change out the ignition at another location. Not much you can do....

[nismokouki]

Im in need of help i recently blew my headgasket and im wanting to change it myself i i now some mechcanical experience. Im wanting to know what is needed to change when replacing my headgasket, so far ive got is new oem thermostat, oem waterpump, new radiator. what kind of headgasket you all recomend using, and would i need to by new head studs i read i do but want do you all recommend motor is stock ka24de thanks in advance.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

All you need is the new headgasket, new head bolts/studs, new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets. You'll also need fresh coolant and some RTV sealant type stuff for your front timing covers.

[nismokouki]

Thanks Mr. Smurf what brand should I look for are there any I should should stay away from. Thanks again

[PapaSmurf2k3]

OEM headgaskets are really good. Everything else is just "whatever". ARP head studs are re-useable, and pay for themselves the first time you have to pull the head again for whatever reason.

[speedeast]

^ ARP is just better all around. I like the MLS head gaskets because of the ease of replacement in the event the head needs to come off... no mess to scrape.

[mechanicalmoron]

Right.... just so's ya all know.... (not that you care)

I got a compression tester, and have about 120 across the board.... including in my bad cylinder. Tested the wire, power on the hot side of the injector. Replaced the computer, harness looked fine.

So I thought about it, and went by the shop this morning. The bolts on the injector cap had only been hand tight, and the injector vibrating had shredded the lower o-ring as I drove, causing the injector to "inject" full pressure fuel around it, flooding it. (incidentally, there was so much gas in the oil it started leaking past both front and rear oil seals badly, changed it before getting to work on this-plain watery, could run a lawn mower on it.)

Got the O-rings at autozone, drives fine, although there was so much gas in the exhaust it bogged and almost died on a hill.... I got most out though. And had plenty of burnt rubber smelling smoke from the bits of o-ring too.... Cat's probly not doing so well these days.

I managed to break the injector cap being stupid, and so it's still sitting there... but anyways, was repair retardedness in the first place. I only took it there cause I couldn't break the old screws loose without stripping them.... they used vice grips and replaced anyways.....

So, now ya know.... It was the first problem, my mistake was counting on an honest fix......

Gunna see if I can guilt trip the garage into having a COMPETENT guy convert me to r134a and charge me up, after their douche put thousands of miles worth of wear on my gas-filled motor with his early lunch break or whatever.

[drudg3r]

i noticed everyone here is very educated and knowledgeable. i am attending a automotive technician school at the moment. just started. my question is: where did you guys get so much knowledge in performance. like engine types, suspension, brakes, tires, shocks, etc


i want to catch up to you guys in knowledge

what books can i read, or forums to check out,or brand name parts shot, pretty much where i can get familiar with all the "building blocks for creating a ordinary car to a speed monster/and or drift car"

i want to eventually work at a performance parts shop, where they build motors, put in turbos and pretty much get the car ready for some brute speed action!

please help

[TunerPharm]

Hey guys back again. Instead of making a new thread after not being able to get a straight answer upon searching the forum, I decided its time to just come right out and ask. I currently have a 96 s14 Silvia and I want to install a HID kit into it.
I've been looking at DDM tuning kits.

But my main concern is, is it possible for me to have Hi and Low beams using one ballast? If so how do I do it? and if possible could you please tell me exactly what bulb is for Hi and which is for Low? Also if you guys have any suggestions on where I should purchase a HID kit just let me know. Thanks for the help.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i noticed everyone here is very educated and knowledgeable. i am attending a automotive technician school at the moment. just started. my question is: where did you guys get so much knowledge in performance. like engine types, suspension, brakes, tires, shocks, etc


i want to catch up to you guys in knowledge

what books can i read, or forums to check out,or brand name parts shot, pretty much where i can get familiar with all the "building blocks for creating a ordinary car to a speed monster/and or drift car"

i want to eventually work at a performance parts shop, where they build motors, put in turbos and pretty much get the car ready for some brute speed action!

please help

I learned a s*** of what I know from NICO. Knowledge passed down from older members here when I was like 17-18. I also worked in a 2 man garage as a mechanic for 4 or 5 years and learned a lot there (and the other/older dude actually learned a lot from me too). I also have a degree in mechanical engineering that helps. I never really read any specific books, but I hear "maximum boost" by Corky Bell is a good read. He's screwed me over through his business, so I can only suggest you pirate his book if you feel the need to read it.

Also, you learn a lot by doing. I can't tell you how many times I've torn down KAs. Sure, you might screw a few things up here and there every now and then, but you take the punches and roll with them. Learn from your mistakes and carry on. It gives you confidence knowing you can fix whatever. It will carry with you later in life, even working on your house and whatnot.

Now, lets talk about where you want to work. Typically, a performance shop that installs turbo systems and does light to heavy fab work DOESN'T have a full blown machine shop at their disposal (say for boring out blocks, resurfacing/rebuilding heads, grinding cranks, etc). They tend to outsource that stuff. I'm sure some exist though.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hey guys back again. Instead of making a new thread after not being able to get a straight answer upon searching the forum, I decided its time to just come right out and ask. I currently have a 96 s14 Silvia and I want to install a HID kit into it.
I've been looking at DDM tuning kits.

But my main concern is, is it possible for me to have Hi and Low beams using one ballast? If so how do I do it? and if possible could you please tell me exactly what bulb is for Hi and which is for Low? Also if you guys have any suggestions on where I should purchase a HID kit just let me know. Thanks for the help.

From what I understand, the only way you can have Hi and Lo on the same balast is if your hi/lo is the same bulb... I've never seen it but I guess some BMWs have it? Bi-xenon maybe its called?

Anyway, your 240 doesn't have it. Sack up and get a ballast and bulb for each hi/lo/side.

I've purchased all my HID kits from HIDExtra.com. They used to be a NICO sponsor, not sure if they still are. I haven't had any problems with mine, going on about 2+ years now in my Miata, and 1.5+ in my Prelude. They have a chart that says what bulb base style you need, and they sell you the actual "kit" to wire it and install it in your car. It is quite easy. Just make sure everything gets aligned properly.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Also I should mention, I left my hi beams as normal halogens. The are more of an "instant on" type of bulb, so if you need to flash your highs at someone like I dunno, to warn them that a cop is ahead, or they can proceed through the intersection, it works a lot better. My lo beams are so good I rarely use the his.