Z32 Flywheel/Flexplate Ring Gear Differences, and what it means for the VH

Discuss topics related to the VH41DE, VH45DE, VK45DE, and VK56DE engines.
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SuperHatch
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The Z32 is available with 3 different sized ring gears.

Z32 TT Manual is the largest.Z32 TT Automatic and Z32 NA Manual are the same size and also the same size as the VH.Z32 NA Auto is the smallest.

Just thought some people doing custom work might find this info useful.


T45
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From what I gather, the only differences are between the NA and TT rear ends.

TT is 3.xx something and the NA is 4.10 something.

95si4
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the TT is the R230 and the n/a uses the R200.

230mm ring gear vs 200mm ring gear.

check this out http://www.club240.com/forums/...28500

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SuperHatch
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Flexplate/flywheel ring gear guys... flexplate/flywheel.

I should have been more clear! Cheers!

I'll get exact tooth counts if you want them. But with this info there should be a way to use a Z NA Trans with an NA clutch/flywheel and the stock VH starter if you're having clearance issues around the Z starter.

That's where I was going with this anyway...

ultrapulse
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T45 wrote:From what I gather, the only differences are between the NA and TT rear ends.

TT is 3.xx something and the NA is 4.10 something.
Yep Shatch's right with the ringgears etc. From memory the TT manual is about 5-6mm larger. Diffs for NA are R200 4.1 (R33 GTR ratio, most other skyline r32's are 4.36 or 4.37), TT is R230 at 3.69.I consider the R200 as just awesome. Very strong and mix'n'match for different models. Still a lttle heavy, but naturally strength brings weight and they're not too heavy for most cars me thinks.From memory R230 is 52kg's, r200 is 36kg's. BTW rips in rotorua have a 9 sec car running the gts4 diff (R200) and is approx 800hp. Last I read the factory diff was loving it. Its got an RB30xx.(Dont really follow their cars, but if someone from NZ is reading they may put up a link etc)

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SuperHatch
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ultrapulse wrote:Yep Shatch's right with the ringgears etc. From memory the TT manual is about 5-6mm larger. Diffs for NA are R200 4.1 (R33 GTR ratio, most other skyline r32's are 4.36 or 4.37), TT is R230 at 3.69.I consider the R200 as just awesome. Very strong and mix'n'match for different models. Still a lttle heavy, but naturally strength brings weight and they're not too heavy for most cars me thinks.From memory R230 is 52kg's, r200 is 36kg's. BTW rips in rotorua have a 9 sec car running the gts4 diff (R200) and is approx 800hp. Last I read the factory diff was loving it. Its got an RB30xx.(Dont really follow their cars, but if someone from NZ is reading they may put up a link etc)
Can we start a new thread regarding rear ends? I mean, this is good info too... but it's not what I had originally wanted the thread to be about.

As far as rear ends go...

USDM S13 and S14 are R200's with 29-Spline output shafts, 6-Bolt axle cups (3 pairs of 2 bolts in a "Y" shape) most were 4.08:1 ratio.

USDM Z32 NA are R200's with 29-Spline output shafts, 5-bolt axle cups, 4.08:1 ratio.

USDM Z32 TT are R230's with 30-Spline output shafts, 6-bolt axle cups (the 6 bolts are evenly spaced in a star), and 3.69:1 ratio

USDM G50 (Infiniti Q45) are R200's with 30-Spline outpus shafts, 6-bolt axle cups (the 6 bolts are evenly spaced in a star), and 3.54:1 ratio

JDM R32 and R33 are R200's with 30-Spline outpus shafts, 6-bolt axle cups (the 6 bolts are evenly spaced in a star), and 4.08:1 ratio

I can go on and on... but the important thing to note is that the G50 diff will bolt into an S14 with no modifications and into an S13 with a rear cover swap. Left Side axles will need to be used from a Z32 TT and G50, Z32 TT LH axle on the LH side of the S13/S14 and G50 LH axle on the RH side of the S13/S14. Z32 TT or G50 hubs must be used.

The R32 and R33 diffs bolt directly into an S14 and require a rear cover swap for an S13. The R32 and R33 axles directly swap, and the R32/R33 hubs swap. If you can get a GTR subframe at a wrecker for a good price, its a simpler option with a higher numerical final drive.

T45
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Sorry for the detour, as a typical male my first thought went to "rear ends".

As for the ring gear and VH starter meshing, I think tmorgan had an issue with the Z/truck flywheel being too far away from the VH starter. Maybe he can chime in with his experience. I'm sure you've read it but if you haven't, he had to switch to a Z32 5speed case and use the Z starter.

mtcookson
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Fixed the title for you, should offer less confusion.

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SuperHatch
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T45 wrote:Sorry for the detour, as a typical male my first thought went to "rear ends".

T45 wrote:As for the ring gear and VH starter meshing, I think tmorgan had an issue with the Z/truck flywheel being too far away from the VH starter. Maybe he can chime in with his experience. I'm sure you've read it but if you haven't, he had to switch to a Z32 5speed case and use the Z starter.
I don't think I saw that thread... I'll take a look for it and try to get all the info in one place. There's a lot of interest in this engine and a lot of speculation. The data needs to be more organized.
mtcookson wrote:Fixed the title for you, should offer less confusion.
Thanks!


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Raxephon
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SuperHatch wrote:Flexplate/flywheel ring gear guys... flexplate/flywheel.

I should have been more clear! Cheers!

I'll get exact tooth counts if you want them. But with this info there should be a way to use a Z NA Trans with an NA clutch/flywheel and the stock VH starter if you're having clearance issues around the Z starter.

That's where I was going with this anyway...
I'm using a VH ring gear on my 300zx N/A flywheel right now.

Cut the welds on your VH flexplate ring gear off, do the same to your n/a flywheel ring gear.

Remove both, discarding the original n/a ring gear.

Slap VH ring gear & 300zx n/a flywheel in an oven @ 350 for 5 hours and then slap the ring gear from the VH onto the n/a flywheel. (Use pliers or you'll burn the sh*# out of yourself)

Tack weld it in place and send it to a machine shop to be re-balanced and surfaced.

Starter engagement issues solved. (For me at least)

The Z33 6 speed input shaft is the same size as the 300zx n/a transmission input shaft.

tmorgan4
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What transmission are you using with this? From the sound of your post a 350Z 6-speed?

Are you using a Q45 starter?

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SuperHatch
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tmorgan4 wrote:What transmission are you using with this? From the sound of your post a 350Z 6-speed?

Are you using a Q45 starter?
That's what it sounds like to me... on both counts.

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Raxephon
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tmorgan4 wrote:What transmission are you using with this? From the sound of your post a 350Z 6-speed?
Yes, but I also have a GTR AWD transmission for my side project.
tmorgan4 wrote:Are you using a Q45 starter?
Yes, for both set ups.

tmorgan4
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Just curious...have you bolted up the Z32 flywheel with the VH ring gear with the starter installed? I had plans of using the Q45 starter with a 300zx flywheel (without changing over to the VH ring gear) and the starter would need to be spaced out 1/4" or so for the teeth to contact the flywheel gear.

Changing over to the VH ring gear doesn't fix this...does it?

tmorgan4
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Also, what transmission are you going with for the GTR transmission? Swapping on a VH bellhousing?

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perana
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i just thought every one should know that you get a 4:11 ratio r230 in a z32.its only in the nismo edition z32.mine was a 1999 model i think those were the only nismo zeds,not sure could'nt find out much a bout it very raer.cheers

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SuperHatch
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perana wrote:i just thought every one should know that you get a 4:11 ratio r230 in a z32.its only in the nismo edition z32.mine was a 1999 model i think those were the only nismo zeds,not sure could'nt find out much a bout it very raer.cheers
There is also an aftermarket 4.11:1 ratio gearset from Richmond gears available for the R230. I believe it's $800.

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cmoody2006
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ok after reading this thread and doing some critical thinking.....

I've come to the asumption that i out put a 6 speed transmission in my 300?Its automatic N/A what would bolt up right and how much would it cost me? And what starter and flywheel would I have to use?

craigztoyz
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The Z32 5 spd is stronger than the 6spd Z33, and has a much better gear selection, unless you like more shifting to get to the same speed. Stronger- synchros on 6spd go out easily, and unless you are lucky, they like to grind on a stock Z33 if you rag on it.Less shifting- the Z33 only has one overdrive, so you have 4 gears under 1.1, the Z32 has 3 gears under 1.1, so you are a lot slower in overall acceleration, due to 1 extra shift. you can go from auto to 5spd using Z32 parts, and an adapter if Vh'd(sorry didnt read your sig)

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Raxephon
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The synchro's can be an issue, but other than that, would you care to sight instances of its lack of strength thats been documented?

( And as a side note, speed is not determined by transmission gearing alone. )

craigztoyz
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true but even if you swap to a different rear gear setup, you will still shift 1 more time, than a 5spd to get to the same gear #'s. just a fact of the #'s.I had 2 Z33 trannys to choose from for 300 a piece locally, and after driving my neighbors 04 Z, and a g35, I was not happy with the shifting abilities of the car, (full throttle getting all up on it), a good clutch could help, but also if you read through Z33 forums, Most people who have modded there Z's (turbo or Vortech) have had to have their trans rebuilt.I am not hating on the z33, But if I were to go 6 spds, I would go T56, (vette)

ultrapulse
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Thats a hard one, as more shifts can mean more speed as the engine spends more time in its sweetspot. If your engine has huge even torque you are prob right, but most cars have a noticeable band where they are at a much higher output. This way u change at just above this so that you are already into the power straight away on the upshift.I cmpare this from swapping out a rear for a lower one (higher numbers). It doesnt always seem much quicker but the timeslip and mph tell a different story normally.You can always d!ck about with the diff to fine-tune the gears I think. Usually cheaper and easier. Even if your 6 speed ends up being a 5 speed plus BIG overdrive. Put it this way I am running the T56, but 2.66 1st and 0.5ish 6th gear means sticking a 4.4 down the back brings the gearing back to 6th being only 25% higher than the stock TT z32 r230 3.7 rear equiv gearing, and 1st coming down a bit from a stupid 'race car' highish 2.6 1st gear. (Mines to be a street and occasional weekend drag car:). Give me z33 6 speed ratios anyday, that way my driveshaft wont be doing like 10,000-12,000rpm at approx full speed!

T45
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If my Z were auto I would have just kept it auto and slapped the q bellhousing on it and called it a day. 5 speeds have their advantages but an auto with a vh would still be super fast and tolerable in bumper to bumper traffic.

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Bart
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What bolts are you using for the flywheel? I can’t seem to find any Nissan equivalent. I tried the SR20 but theyre too fat, should I try VG30 flywheel bolts?I got an alloy 300ZX TT fly wheel I need to bolt onto my VH41.
Modified by Bart at 1:37 PM 2/21/2008

T45
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Stock Z32 flywheel bolts worked for me.

tmorgan4
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I ran into this problem recently with the flywheel bolts. I ended up using 300zx Z32 TT bolts (not sure if NA and TT use the same length?) and they worked fine. Considering the bolts were almost $11 apiece from the dealer, it would have been much more cost effective to go with ARPs. I'm not sure if ARP parts are readily available in Australia like they are here, but they have a few models that will work.

The TT bolts were a M10 x 1.0 with a roughly 27mm length under the head. ARP part number 151-2801 for a "2000cc Pinto" are also M10 x 1.0 with 1.150" length (just over 29mm). Problem is they come in packs of 6.

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Bart
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Thanks guys ill try to get the 300zx ARP bolts.

XJared
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Do any of you know if the Z33 and Z32 flywheels share the same crank bolt pattern?thanks,J

tmorgan4
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The ARP application isn't listed for a 300zx but the bolts are the right dimensions. they are actually a couple mm longer than the 300zx bolts but I don't think they are too long.

The 300zx OEM bolts are M10x1.0 and 27mm length under the head from what I remember.

jtmroczk
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Raxephon wrote:
SuperHatch wrote:Flexplate/flywheel ring gear guys... flexplate/flywheel.

I should have been more clear! Cheers!

I'll get exact tooth counts if you want them. But with this info there should be a way to use a Z NA Trans with an NA clutch/flywheel and the stock VH starter if you're having clearance issues around the Z starter.

That's where I was going with this anyway...
I'm using a VH ring gear on my 300zx N/A flywheel right now.

Cut the welds on your VH flexplate ring gear off, do the same to your n/a flywheel ring gear.

Remove both, discarding the original n/a ring gear.

Slap VH ring gear & 300zx n/a flywheel in an oven @ 350 for 5 hours and then slap the ring gear from the VH onto the n/a flywheel. (Use pliers or you'll burn the sh*# out of yourself)

Tack weld it in place and send it to a machine shop to be re-balanced and surfaced.

Starter engagement issues solved. (For me at least)

The Z33 6 speed input shaft is the same size as the 300zx n/a transmission input shaft.


I thought i would come in and add since this post motivated me to get to work on all of this.

94' Q45 with stock starter in stock location, N/A Z32 5MT flywheel, Z33 6MT transmission

after multiple tries i ended up baking the ring gear at 500 degrees for 3 hours and bringing the flywheel up a little over 100 to help slow heat transfer, two pliers, a hammer and a little patience are still needed. In hind sight i will strongly suggest buying enough 2-3mm keyway stock in order to evenly space the ring gear out from flush while mounting it to the flywheel, otherwise the q45 starter gear to ring gear engagement is at an absolute minimum(in my case), MINIMUM. however it successfully started the car last night.


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