z32 brake swap on vert

[slownslurious]

so which e brake cable fits the 240? the 2+2 or the 2 seater?

[94_240sx]

so which e brake cable fits the 240? the 2+2 or the 2 seater?

I was just gonna do like this. tenkawa said 2+2 cable is longer, so it'll be easier working with a cable from 2+2 I guess. Do you think it'll be okay?

http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm

[Hijacker]

so which e brake cable fits the 240? the 2+2 or the 2 seater?

given that the 2+2 is slightly longer, you'll have an easier time routing it. Of course, I don't believe it will follow the stock routing perfectly. So you may still find yourself trimming extra tabs off using homemade clamps and zipties to hold the cable in place.

but i wouldn't recommend cutting up 2 cables to splice together like al did. it's hokey and a bit unsafe IMO.

[slownslurious]

well thats what I'm planning on doing only I'll probably just take it to brake stop and have them use that big cable crimper that they have. My friend had a Z e brake cable I dont remember which model it was off, but it didn't fit his 240 at all and he ended up cutting it and getting it crimped.

[94_240sx]

but i wouldn't recommend cutting up 2 cables to splice together like al did. it's hokey and a bit unsafe IMO.

That's what I thought first, but this is what the guy from importtune said. "In case you are wondering about reliability, the cables on suspension bridges are clamped together using the same process."

[slownslurious]

yeah a lot of **** is crimped together the same, including high tension power lines... though they use the bigger crimp fittings. You could probably even buy those u bend channels that fit inside the cable, double the cable over on both ends creating two loops, and double or triple crimp it back on itself, the same way they do on the cables holding up cell phone towers and power poles.

[madcowvert]

i re routed the lines on my vert and they work fine i didn't have to cut any thing

[94_240sx]

i re routed the lines on my vert and they work fine i didn't have to cut any thing

Do you know where your e-brake line came out of? 2+2?

[madcowvert]

i have no idea what 2+2 is and i ran the line the same way as in the super street install. but if i get a chance this week end i'll take some pics



there is a metal tab that needs to be cut befor you put it in

[94_240sx]

i have no idea what 2+2 is and i ran the line the same way as in the super street install. but if i get a chance this week end i'll take some picsthere is a metal tab that needs to be cut befor you put it in

Cool! z32 came with 2 seaters and 2+2 which has tiny back seats. As far as I know, they look same from the outside.

[madcowvert]

i dont think the z32 i got my stuff of was a 2+2 because i always thought that they were 2 seaters so if i would have seen that i would have rememberd.

[slownslurious]

they do look dif. from the outside, quite different to me. but anyway... you used your stock E brake cable with Z brakes??!!?!?!?

[Hijacker]

that's dave coleman's S13 buildup pictured. he took stock Z lines and ran them under the chassis and through the rear subframe, then ziptied them in place and made some homemade clamps.

IIRC, the 2+2 Zs had a slightly longer wheelbase, which is why the e brake cable turned out a few inches longer. I haven't compared it to an S chassis cable yet so I can't comment on matching lengths or anything like that.

here's a pic of the cable running through the subframe up to the e brake backing.

[slownslurious]

the 2+2's had a longer wheel base by a pretty good bit. they are a much larger car. They have a different chassis than the 2 seaters. they used the 2+2 as the base for the IMSA race car because the fuel tank's position...but anyway yeah they are different lengths so the cable has to be longer for one than the other so it doesn't really help that someone used an anonymous Z cable that fit.

[94_240sx]

Ran into these threads while I was googling for z32 e-brake cables. It looks like R33 cables work well with z32 e-brake assembly. Check them out!!

These are the part numbers.-------------------------------------------------36531-15U10 Left ebrake cable R3336530-15U10 Right ebrake cable R33 ------------------------------------------------

[94_240sx]

Got the Nabco MC from eBay seller hotslots. He had a 17/16 Nabco MC with a fitting already in the middle. It was $119 brand new.



If you get a used z32 MC, you have to do this to put a fitting in the middle. I'm glad that I don't have to mess around with the fitting.

[Eikon]

Fantastic thread you guys! Keep up the good work, and thanks for sharing all the info (with pictures!!!).

I've added this thread to the FAQS sticky.

Is anyone taking photos of the actual installation when they do it? I know it's not rocket science, but the pictures really are what sets things apart. With those pictures we'll have a sweet thread for an article!

[Hijacker]

I'm on the phone with some yards to get the proper rear e brake assemblies right now, Seth. so hopefully in the next week or three I should be ready to do an install how to.

[94_240sx]

I just picked up R33 e-brake cables last night from Courtesy Nissan, and guys over there guaranteed that cables will fit perfectly on s13 chassis. Sorry, didn't ask about s14. Obviously, Courtesy Nissan keeps them in stock for z32 e-brake conversion for 240sx. I measured it just now, and it was 54 inches long. tenkawa, please let us know how long z32 2+2 cable is after you get them. I hope I can use all those brackets on the cables to keep them neat and clean under the car.

[Hijacker]

the 2+2's are only 45 inches give or take. Im definitely interested in knowing how well the R33 cables fit. Also, do you have a link for those parts at courtesy's site? I couldn't find them and would like to see prices.

Seeing the big difference in length between our cables, I'm really interested in the R33 cables. Good thing I only have $20 in my Z cables

[94_240sx]

I guess they didn't put them on their website. You should give them a call. I asked and they have 4 and 7 of them left. Don't know which side is 4 and 7. Cables weren't cheap, but I didn't want to get frustrated when I do tne swap. Been there done that!

Not all of sales guys are familiar with z32 brake upgrade on s13, so you better ask and talk to right person.

[94_240sx]

Matbe you can use this extension with stock s13 cable.

'S13 240SX E-BRAKE EXTENSION KIT W/ Z32 CALIPER 300ZX'http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

[94_240sx]

I'm going to local junkyard this Sunday to get e-brake parts from z32. I called and they have some. I'm buying 36mm socket tonight. Anyway, I searched and this is what I found. Is there something I need to be aware of and whatnot? How much should I pay for each e-brake assembly. I just want to make sure that I get what I need at once since the junkyard is like 30miles away from my house. I was going to do it next spring, but decided to do it this week because the weather is just great these days.

Steps------------1. First take off the RLCA ball joint that is hooked up to the spindle. You unscrew the nut on top. Then you have to use WD-40 or PB blaster and a big mofo hammer. Have you ever pulled balljoints using a hammer before? If not, you just hammer the spindle where the ball joint is and it will pop out.

2. Take off the Z32 ebrake cable from the middle of the car. You will need to use those.

3. Take off the axle nut. It's 36mm and would be probably be nice to have an impact gun or a big breaker bar and cheater bar.

4. Then take off the toe arms and bumpsteer arms

5. Pull that **** off the axles and take it home.

6. Then use an impact or put the spindle in a vice and pull off those hub bolts from the backside of the spindle. There are four of them.

[tigwebu]

[QUOTE=94_240sx]3. Take off the axle nut. It's 36mm and would be probably be nice to have an impact gun or a big breaker bar and cheater bar. [QUOTE]

breaker bar + Cheater bar FTW!!! Its my most loved tool
Modified by tigwebu at 1:38 PM 12/14/2006

[94_240sx]

Quote »breaker bar + Cheater bar FTW!!! Its my most loved tool[/quote]Haha!! I hear you. I broke a bolt head once w/breaker bar, so I'm very careful about it now. I thought I was unbolting it and suddenly head fell off. Dang!!! After that, I always soak everything with PB Blaster.

[Hijacker]

I'm going to local junkyard this Sunday to get e-brake parts from z32. I called and they have some

Hey, check to see if they have 2 Zs with the rear brakes still on them. All of the yards near me are tapped out on rear e brake assemblies, so I'm SOL for semi-local. I can paypal you the cost of the assemblies and shipping if they have it. Just kind of need to know how much they want for 'em. All I really need is the back plate and the pivot point. Don't need the hubs or the upright.

[94_240sx]

Alright. I'll do that. I talked to the guy briefly yesterday and he said they normally have z32s, but he couldn't answer if he has N/A or TT. I'll let you know. I'll take some pics when I pull it out and post here.

[94_240sx]

Okay. Here's the update. tenkawa, sorry. I went through about 10 z32s from over 10 different junkyards and found only one pair. People said z32s become rare and brake parts are always first ones to go. This junkyard that I got these from had e-brake assembly already out of the car. Measured the cable and it was 39 inches. Looks like they came out of N/A 2 seaters since they didn't have any TT in stock. I think I got the right parts, but anyone see any problems in the picture? I don't have a 26mm socket, so didn't get a chance to disassemble them. I'll do it tomorrow.



110 miles round trip to this junkyard.
Modified by 94_240sx at 8:35 PM 12/23/2006

[Hijacker]

the missing hub bolts are odd on the back of your upright, but that's an easy replacement, grab your hub blts off your upright.

And the e brake issue is solved for me. I just cut out the spacers off my skyline hubs and viola, it works. The only issue I came across with doing this was that the pivot on the driver side rotated and wouldn't rotate back down and contacted the edge of my rotor drum. I had to get a cutting wheel out and chop out some metal off it to get some clearance. Thankfully it wasn't anything too bad.

And other than that, the brake job has been my most annoying job done on this car to date. Rounded flare nuts necessetated replacing hard lines. Both hubs were rust welded to the uprights. It took me an entire day just to get the hubs out so I could swap the backing plates. The rear e brake cables were corroded to the front e brake cable splicer bracket. And nothing I did would get them loose. They wouldn't even burn out, so I'm waiting for a new front e brake cable from midway.

All in all, a simple afternoon swap job has turned into a week long terror. It was every bit of 5 days to get everything done (although I had to admit a lot of that time was spent doing weird parts runs and one junk yard run), except the e brake cable, which won't be bad as soon as my parts get here. Oh, did I mention that both bolts that bolt the front e brake cable to the chassis snapped inside their holes? I think my car just wanted to stick to stock rear brakes ><

[slownslurious]

thats why you should get all the parts you need off the same car yourself so you know you have everything. but some comments:

1) ebrake extension kits.. someone let me know when they try those and they work.

2) 36 mm nut- in your order of dissassembly you are taking off the ebrake before you take off the 46 mm nut. assuming the car has the wheels off and is in the air, you have no way to hold to put enough force on the breaker bar to break that big nut loose. Break the nut loose, then take apart the ebrake.