Z22E Rod Dimensions

[elwesso]

zerothread?id=300292

From this thread, I acquired a later Z22E rod, and measured it up as best I could..

Images are full size.. Everything should be there.





The synopsis on this is that the rods look kinda wimpy and im not sure id want to put this in a boosted motor?

[Mettler]

Cheers for investigating it Wes!

*sigh* the hunt continues for a cheap decompression piston/rod combo.

[gs14racer]

pistons 1000.00 done. easy yet effective

[Olderthanme]

Z22E rods are 149.5mm long.

2.5MM longer than VH rods just for the record (less room for ring lands).

L20B connecting rods are 145.9mm long and are forged. They have a 53mm big end(26.8mm width that will need to be cut down) and a 21mm small end (25.4mm width)and are good to around 110hp per rod with a race prep.

The 1mm shorter rod length from the L20B gives you some more room to add strength for ring lands in your VH pistons.

Both of these rods will require 2mm ground out of the rod journals.

OTM

Pistons are an easy grand.http://www.rosspistons.com

[mtcookson]

12100-A7660 <- That rod is supposed to be a 148.6mm length rod with a 23.5mm small end.

[elwesso]

either way, im not sure id want to put thing tiny little rod inside my motor... just throwing it out there.

[BRAAP]

either way, im not sure id want to put thing tiny little rod inside my motor... just throwing it out there.

When evaluating alternative con rods for a performance application, knowing where Rods typically fail and why is beneficial and those area is where you focus scrutiny. Where the beam spreads out the big end and in some applications depending on piston weight and RPM, just under the small end.

Now regarding L-series/NAPS-Z con rods, much has been written and done with these rods regarding their ability to function in high performance and full tilt race applications. If you are contemplating using the L-series con rod, purchase and read the book below. Covers these rods and how to prep them pretty well. In short, the L-series/NAPS-Z rods are actually quite tough/durable. A little prep and L–series rods live in racing environments spun up to 8500 RPM, with 79mm stroke possibly more RPMS, as that is where the L-28 crank breaks at the flywheel!

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/1931128049.html





Modified by BRAAP at 11:02 AM 2/28/2008
Modified by BRAAP at 11:08 AM 2/28/2008

[mtcookson]

Hey Paul! What brings you over this way? I'm mtcookson over at HybridZ.

[Mettler]

Thanks for the info BRAAP!

The reason I was investigating this is because US$1000+ for aftermarket pistons... is simply not an affordable method. It'd end up costing around $NZ2k to get a set over here (the cost of two entire VH engines), and I'm sure none of you guys would throw US$1000+ into it without feeling the burn.

This is why I want to find a rod compatible with the factory VQ30DET pistons... as it should be much cheaper to buy a set, and will undoubtedly make the motor safe as to boost up and get around 800HP without popping. Think about it, we always see examples of factory boosting Nissan engines with bolt ons, making big numbers on the stock internals. SR20s over 400HP at the flywheel on stock pistons.. Have seen RB engines making over 600HP without popping any pistons etc...

So it's not like we'd be placing any additional strain on VQ pistons if used... undoubtedly they're of the same quality design and hypereutectic alloy construction as other modern Nissan boost pistons, and capable of holding their own with significant boost thrown at them.

Having googled further, it seems the piston list I found stating 30.4mm is somewhat 'unique' in its VQ30DET compression height listing, and VQ30 pistons in fact have a 30.7mm compression height (as confirmed on VQ forums).

This makes the required rod length actually 148.3mm... so if anyone has any ideas, post em up! I'm fairly confident we could build a safe 100HP per cylinder combo using a combination of stock rods & pistons from other Nissan motors... it's just a case of finding ones to suit.

[BRAAP]

Thanks for the info BRAAP!

The reason I was investigating this is because US$1000+ for aftermarket pistons... is simply not an affordable method. It'd end up costing around $NZ2k to get a set over here (the cost of two entire VH engines), and I'm sure none of you guys would throw US$1000+ into it without feeling the burn.

This is why I want to find a rod compatible with the factory VQ30DET pistons... as it should be much cheaper to buy a set, and will undoubtedly make the motor safe as to boost up and get around 800HP without popping. Think about it, we always see examples of factory boosting Nissan engines with bolt ons, making big numbers on the stock internals. SR20s over 400HP at the flywheel on stock pistons.. Have seen RB engines making over 600HP without popping any pistons etc...

So it's not like we'd be placing any additional strain on VQ pistons if used... undoubtedly they're of the same quality design and hypereutectic alloy construction as other modern Nissan boost pistons, and capable of holding their own with significant boost thrown at them.

Having googled further, it seems the piston list I found stating 30.4mm is somewhat 'unique' in its VQ30DET compression height listing, and VQ30 pistons in fact have a 30.7mm compression height (as confirmed on VQ forums).

This makes the required rod length actually 148.3mm... so if anyone has any ideas, post em up! I'm fairly confident we could build a safe 100HP per cylinder combo using a combination of stock rods & pistons from other Nissan motors... it's just a case of finding ones to suit.

I really like the method in your madness, (matches mine). In true Datsun/Nissan form, researching the resources already available to achieve a fun attainable realistic goal on a modest budget.

I’m currently working with OlderThanMe, essence a skunkworks VH project, as such we are also looking into alternative rods and possibly pistons. Our project is not a boosted one, at least not at this point in the research phase, but as we come cross suitable piston/rod options, we’ll be sure to post them here in case those options may help your project.

[BRAAP]

Mtcookson, Ah yes I recognized your name as soon as I signed up. HybridZ’s resident VG30E guru. Whenever I have a question about VG30E stuff, I just look up your posts.

I’m here doing research for a project that OTM and myself are trying to bring to fruition. If you know what it is, please keep it on the down low for now, please? After we clear a couple hurdles, we’ll see about making it public.

Hey Paul! What brings you over this way? I'm mtcookson over at HybridZ.

[Ezekial]

factory conrods are finefactory pistons WITH 68 ABDC closing intake valves are of adequate compression

i dont see the problem

run 98RON fuel and a decent aftermarket ecu

THERE IS NO NEED FOR RODS OR PISTONS

[BRAAP]

factory conrods are finefactory pistons WITH 68 ABDC closing intake valves are of adequate compression

i dont see the problem

run 98RON fuel and a decent aftermarket ecu

THERE IS NO NEED FOR RODS OR PISTONS

I have no doubt your scenario would hold true, but that scenario is not our scenario, hence THE NEED FOR ALTERNATIVE RODS!

Our highest octane available here in the states is 91 (R+M)/2, which is more equivalent to your 95. In a few locations here, there is claim of 93 (R+M)/2 being available, though not where I live.

Intake valve closure point for our custom ground cams has yet to be determined, though we may take advantage of the longer piston dwell at TDC from our longer than stock rod/stroke ratio, when determining our overall cam specs.

The main and most critical reason for alternative rods is this engine will have internal modifications that necessitates the need for a different rod and possibly piston combo than the OE VH, hence the “skunk works” project mentioned above. Our focus for this project is something other than max effort performance.

[ntn.wrng.w.nsnbtz]

Postby Olderthanme » Wed Feb 27, 2008 6:14 pm

Z22E rods are 149.5mm long.

2.5MM longer than VH rods (WRONG ! ) just for the record (less room for ring lands).

L20B connecting rods are 145.9mm long and are forged. They have a 53mm big end(26.8mm width that will need to be cut down) and a 21mm small end (25.4mm width)and are good to around 110hp per rod with a race prep.

HEY! This is 11 years old BUT VH rods are
Part Type: Connecting Rods
Center to Center Length: 154.00mm/6.063"
Big End Bore Diameter: 53.00mm/2.087"
Big End Width: 20.75mm/0.817"
Small End Bore Diameter: 22.00mm /0.866"
Small End Width: 21.59mm/0.850" Which makes VH rods 4.5mm longer than Z22 rods. Now if anyone takes your word for it and starts working toward a rod you claim is 2.5mm shorter and an easy detune to add boost . They will discover somewhere along that journey these things will never allow the engine to complete a rotation.

[ntn.wrng.w.nsnbtz]

factory conrods are finefactory pistons WITH 68 ABDC closing intake valves are of adequate compression

i dont see the problem

run 98RON fuel and a decent aftermarket ecu

THERE IS NO NEED FOR RODS OR PISTONS

I have no doubt your scenario would hold true, but that scenario is not our scenario, hence THE NEED FOR ALTERNATIVE RODS!

Our highest octane available here in the states is 91 (R+M)/2, which is more equivalent to your 95. In a few locations here, there is claim of 93 (R+M)/2 being available, though not where I live.

Intake valve closure point for our custom ground cams has yet to be determined, though we may take advantage of the longer piston dwell at TDC from our longer than stock rod/stroke ratio, when determining our overall cam specs.

The main and most critical reason for alternative rods is this engine will have internal modifications that necessitates the need for a different rod and possibly piston combo than the OE VH, hence the “skunk works” project mentioned above. Our focus for this project is something other than max effort performance.

Use race fuel ?