Yes, Another Running Rich Topic-Attn Rico

[Ca_Silvia]

Before you guys tell me to search i have and my questions are in relation to those guys before me like RICO that i read through their topics regarding the same problems.

I recently pulled the beast out of winter storage but while it was sleeping i replaced all vaccum hoses, fixed my turbo manifold leak and check her over for any other vaccum leaks as at idle i only pull 15-16psi, checked plugs, cleaned MAF.

I read through archives and found that temp sensors, dirty MAF's, bad o2 sensors, and leaky fuel injectors could lead to this problem. What worked for you guys in the end as none of those topics ever got updated? I feel i have tried just about everything but im sure there is something im over looking

Thanks in advance.

[r34 gtr]

15-16 hg is fine for vacuum at idle. I only get that and my car runs like a champ. Have you tried simply letting it warm up and then thrashing it around the block a few times? In retrospect, that could be terrible advice.

[Ca_Silvia]

15-16 hg is fine for vacuum at idle. I only get that and my car runs like a champ. Have you tried simply letting it warm up and then thrashing it around the block a few times? In retrospect, that could be terrible advice.

Oh believe me i have tried that! The car is back to my DD now that the snow is gone.

Im not so worried about the vacuum, that could just be a tired motor. Im planning on a compression test this weekend but im more interested to see if someone has figured out this running rich problem everyone seems to have. It has to be one specific thing as my car is not a swap its an o.e. engine install. It must be a faulty part i just want to know if someone else has fixed it and can save me some cash randomly replacing parts.

[r34 gtr]

Did you drain the gas after letting it sit all winter?

[ca18detgabby]

vac leak can make you run rich as you are getting more fuel than the air as the computer expects the proper specs. my car was a nice flame thrower when I had a small leak. got to love no cats

If it was running kind of shotty I would check the coil packs too, but it will feel like a huge loss in power and irratic idle.

dirty maf

over cooling

leaky injector

drop in resistor

can all really **** around with your AFR...... I would look for another symptom(such as th vac leak or others). it is hard to guess without hearing, seeing or atleast knowing much about the engine.

[rico05]

I get 20inHg at idle. Always have. Hmmmm.

And it is dropping resisitor Gabby. It drops the voltage from the ECU to the injectors as we have low impedence peak and hold type.

Seriously man, I have no clue. I have been running rich ever since my motor went it. I am sick of it. I pulled my exhaust valve cover to check an oil leak, and there is lots of gas smell in my oil. I am sick of this. I want a stand alone. ECCS is a peice of ****.

[roplusbee]

Did you also check the grounding points? That can also wreak havoc on proper operation. I am not saying that this is the case, but if all of the other items were confirmed good, that may be a contributing factor.

I too am searching for my "running rich" culprit. My AP Power FC just came in today and I am excited to hook up all of my gauges and such once I get back from my trip.

Good luck and good hunting.

Rob

[Ca_Silvia]

Only thing out of all of those ideas is the over cooling. Its still only 0-10* outside and the car takes forever to even get up to 170* and it takes some serious bagging on the car to get it above that.

Ill see what i can find out this weekend, ill finally do a boost leak test even though i thought i covered that base and a compression test to see how the motor is escpecially after a solid year of sliding last year.

Flames are cool and all but i want my motor 100% so i can start with the modifications and not hand grenade my motor.

[ca18detgabby]

I get 20inHg at idle. Always have. Hmmmm.

me 2. then agian according to my wideband Im running right optimum.

[r34 gtr]

16 is close to 20....

My engine isn't your typical ca18 though. I always get a little lower vacuum, and my oil pressure seems lower than everyone else's. Still runs like crazy though. Only 2300mi on it this time.

In retrospect, I blame Autometer. Those people couldn't make an accurate gauge if their lives depended on it.

[ca18detgabby]

16 is close to 20....

My engine isn't your typical ca18 though. I always get a little lower vacuum, and my oil pressure seems lower than everyone else's. Still runs like crazy though. Only 2300mi on it this time.

In retrospect, I blame Autometer. Those people couldn't make an accurate gauge if their lives depended on it.

lol 16 is close to 20

[r34 gtr]

Just went to the bank, got 25 at idle. Yeah, go to hell Autometer.

[Ca_Silvia]

Well its definatly better then that megan **** that i had before!

Give me a week i only have time to work on the car this weekend, then i will update this thread.

[r34 gtr]

In the mean time, I will keep it afloat with my constant whoring.

[ca18detgabby]

Just went to the bank, got 25 at idle. Yeah, go to hell Autometer.

LOL I have prosport gauges and have no complaints....... I wanted to go autometer, but friend owns a shop gave me more than a good deal on electronic boost and water temp gauges.

will be running their oil pressure and oil temp guages very soon.

[Ca_Silvia]

LOL I have prosport gauges and have no complaints....... I wanted to go autometer, but friend owns a shop gave me more than a good deal on electronic boost and water temp gauges.

will be running their oil pressure and oil temp guages very soon.

To add to all the whoring...After my Megan disaster i refuse to go back to electric gauges. Ill deal with the potential of having my oil gauge blow inside the car in order to get the most accurate reading. And the coolant mechanical gauge just makes for harder routing for install same type of readings though.

[biosehnsucht]

I've been MIA lately so maybe this is in another thread, but only the CA18DET MAF will give correct readings with a stock ECU. If you have anything else, even the KA24E, you'll need to reprogram the ECU.

[ca18detgabby]

To add to all the whoring...After my Megan disaster i refuse to go back to electric gauges. Ill deal with the potential of having my oil gauge blow inside the car in order to get the most accurate reading. And the coolant mechanical gauge just makes for harder routing for install same type of readings though.

you can have the hot engine oil............ if Im getting hot oils on me it isnt going to be motor oil

eh, even with the wideband I even have an electronic hub pre-gauge and electric read out.

I guess it is just a matter of being willing to wire a whole lot more. Plus it is pretty

[r34 gtr]

Mechanical gauges can bite me. I have yet to come across a good accurate one, and I have seen lots. I'm with you gabby, electric gauges with remote senders or bust. The idea of a gauge dying on me and shooting 200 degree oil on my lap keeps me up at night.

[Ca_Silvia]

Mechanical gauges can bite me. I have yet to come across a good accurate one, and I have seen lots. I'm with you gabby, electric gauges with remote senders or bust. The idea of a gauge dying on me and shooting 200 degree oil on my lap keeps me up at night.

wuss

[r34 gtr]

wuss

Thanks.

[busteds13]

I've been MIA lately so maybe this is in another thread, but only the CA18DET MAF will give correct readings with a stock ECU. If you have anything else, even the KA24E, you'll need to reprogram the ECU.

could this problem be possibly fixed by installing an safc setting all corrections to zero but making the MAF in- out KA maf and CA engine, specific?so the SAFC tricks the CA ECU in to thinking its got a CA MAF by adjusting the reading off of the KA MAF to match that of the CA?if noone understood^ thats cuz im specil.sorry

[ca18detgabby]

could this problem be possibly fixed by installing an safc setting all corrections to zero but making the MAF in- out KA maf and CA engine, specific?so the SAFC tricks the CA ECU in to thinking its got a CA MAF by adjusting the reading off of the KA MAF to match that of the CA?if noone understood^ thats cuz im specil.sorry

Idk exactly the programing but yes you can make the KAe work for the CA with a SAFC.

I would rather run a z32 and be done with it if you are going to invest in a SAFC. or just get the proper MAF instead

[rico05]

I ran all this by my buddy who is an ASE master technician, with 20 years of wrench experience (and happens to be lead tech at one of the best shops in town).

We Ohm'ed out my DR, and it was fine. He checked all the circuits to my idle crap and it all works. He thinks it is a fuel injector problem. We are going to hook my car up to the oscilloscope and look at injector puleses. He also reccomends Ohn'ing each injector and making sure that they are all close in resistance. He is fairly sure that our problem is injector based.

[Ca_Silvia]

I hate to be pushy but when are you getting you car scoped?

[r34 gtr]

I have my own oscilloscope for ignition diagnosis. You can get a used one on eBay for relatively cheap, and boy howdy do they come in handy sometimes.

[busteds13]

Idk exactly the programing but yes you can make the KAe work for the CA with a SAFC.

I would rather run a z32 and be done with it if you are going to invest in a SAFC. or just get the proper MAF instead

thanx, i just happen to have an SAFC in my car allready, and it just sits there and lies about my knock sensor and worries me, so i figure why not make some use outta the damn thing?immona go try some stuff and then ill post me findings.

[Ca_Silvia]

I have new information relating to my problem i want to know what you guys think.

This morning was the coldest it has been in a while -10* When i started my car today is only had 13psi of vacuum. The vacuum at idle only managed to get to 15-16 after 15 mins of driving.

My best guess is my intake manifold obviously contracts when it get cold thus opening a vacuum leak. The driving then heats up the manifold expanding the manifold to reduce the amount of vacuum loss.

Is this a plausable situation for my vacuum leak? When i do a boost leak test should the motor be cold?warm?

[ca18detgabby]

My best guess would be that it doesnt matter. however, if cold weather is making it more perdominate, then I would do it before it warms as theoreticly it should be easier to notice.

I always use water and soap...... never tried scoping it, but I may pick one up for future use.

[Ca_Silvia]

My best guess would be that it doesnt matter. however, if cold weather is making it more perdominate, then I would do it before it warms as theoreticly it should be easier to notice.

I always use water and soap...... never tried scoping it, but I may pick one up for future use.

The soap and water trick is a good idea, i never thought of that for this. I was just going to presuurize the system and then listen for my motor to whistle at me