Yes, Another Running Rich Topic-Attn Rico

Post by **r34 gtr** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 8:41 am

Pressurize the intake system with an air compressor, and put a gauge on it and see if it holds pressure for a length of time. Thats what I did. I have no leaks and still only manage between 15 and 20 mm hg (apparently) so I don't know if I would be really worried if I were you.

You ever consider that its just running rich because its freaking cold as hell and the retarded 8 bit ecu is dumping in lots more fuel to compensate for the really dense air charge?

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 10:10 am

r34 gtr wrote:Pressurize the intake system with an air compressor, and put a gauge on it and see if it holds pressure for a length of time. Thats what I did. I have no leaks and still only manage between 15 and 20 mm hg (apparently) so I don't know if I would be really worried if I were you.

You ever consider that its just running rich because its freaking cold as hell and the retarded 8 bit ecu is dumping in lots more fuel to compensate for the really dense air charge?

That is the only thing that is striking me as a possibility. I've done everything that has been mentioned regarding running rich problem areas from past topics. I want to do a vacuum leak test just to be safe. Im interested to see what i have for compression. Then if Rico's test proves out to be an injector issue i already have 444cc injectors waiting for tuning and a turbo. I just want to be sure i have no issues before i start messing around with upgrading fuel pumps, injectors and turbos

Post by **rico05** » Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:32 pm

My car actually runs better the colder it is.

It is going to be a week or so as the shop is backed up as they are down one guy for a few weeks.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:06 pm

Ok finally got an answer!

In the past 2 days while the car is cold i have been getting this belt squealing sound in vacuum at only 13-14psi. Then once its warm i get a chirping sound all the time at 15-16psi in vacuum. Slapped a boost leak tester on there and heard a definate leak coming from the intake mani...****

Anyone have any tips/tricks to taking off the intake manifold? It sure doesn't look like fun.

Anyone know where i can get 8 port intake manifold gaskets? I saw in the stickies nissan doesn't supply them anymore.

Modified by Ca_Silvia at 9:22 PM 4/3/2008
Modified by Ca_Silvia at 9:43 PM 4/3/2008

Post by **r34 gtr** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:47 am

Its dead easy to remove the intake manifold! Its your lucky day!

You will need:Beer10, 12, and 14mm sockets (6pt, non-deep wall)3" 6" 12" extensionssocket wrenchPhillips screwdriverpliers

Drain coolant, unhook upper rad. hose from the thermostat housing.

Remove idle valves and crap, or just unplug them.

Remove dumb intake manifold braces. Leave removed when done, as they don't do a thing but get in the way and they weigh a total of about 30lbs. This may involve unhooking wires from the alternator and knock sensor, as they may have been routed through the middle of one of those dumb brackets.

Unbolt the fuel rail from the upper manifold. (10mm I think)

Remove harness ground wires from intake manifold, and pretty much just try to unhook that whole section of engine harness, and pull it out of the way. Everything from the CAS to the TPS to the coil packs. Just get it out of there to make it easy.

Get yer 14mm socket and big extensions

Remove upper manifold 1st (the bolts are actually easy to get to!) Get in there from the side. Youll have to look between the runners to see the bolts.

Once this upper manifold is clear (you'll probably have to pull the fuel lines off to get the FPR out of there) You can remove the fuel rail and injectors.

Remove lower manifold.

While you are in there, you might as well ditch the butterflies and port match the biach.

Thats about it. Just do everything in reverse to get it back together. RTV silicone the gaskets to ensure there will be no leaks.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:19 am

r34 gtr-Thank you so much for that plus you beat Gabbyto the post so +1 for you my friend.

I honestly want to remove as less as possible in order to do the gaskets. So do i have to remove the injectors from the manifold or can i leave them in?

And the butterflies are staying, i kind of like any bottom end torque i can get out of this motor

Post by **r34 gtr** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 10:45 am

You don't have to remove the injectors, but you will have to unbolt the rail from the upper manifold. They are pretty much going to fall out on their own though, so you might as well. They just pop right out, theres no effort involved, so if you are concerned they will be hard to put back in, don't be.

I forgot, there are also two small black braces on the inside of the manifold between the valve cover. very quick and easy to remove, but I might as well mention them.

EDIT: You might as well try and clean as much as you can while you are in there. Its worth the peace of mind. I'm not saying tear into the engine or anything, but maybe soak the manifold bits in degreaser overnight and make sure nothing is gunked up.

Post by **biosehnsucht** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:24 pm

I'd leave the braces in place, personally... They were put there for a reason.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 12:31 pm

biosehnsucht wrote:I'd leave the braces in place, personally... They were put there for a reason.

Yeah, to be heavy and suck.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 1:02 pm

Well i couldn't get the gaskets to do the work this weekend. No parts stores could get the gaskets quicker then 3 weeks! So i phoned up Nissan and the best they could do is Tuesday next week. Oh well.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 2:03 pm

Man just make them out of RTV silicone.

Post by **ca18detgabby** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 5:28 pm

r34 gtr wrote:Man just make them out of RTV silicone.

agreed

Ca_Silvia wrote: plus you beat Gabbyto the post so +1 for you my friend.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Fri Apr 04, 2008 7:13 pm

Well i am not 100% sold on the fact of only using RTV. The car is going to be drifted very heavily this year so i just want the peace of mind that gasket and RTV silicone can provide. Im sure it would work but for $20 in gaskets its not a big deal to me.

Plus while i couldn't work on the engine i managed to polish my drift rims, i got the idea from a guy on one of the forums.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:53 am

Can't beat the 15" tire for cheapness.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 2:12 pm

^Agreed

Update, i had to pull the car off the road. On cold starts i was only getting 10psi on vacuum and my oil is now brown/black and smells like gas real bad. Oh well i only have to wait a couple days for the gaskets.

Post by **r34 gtr** » Sat Apr 05, 2008 4:53 pm

Check to see if your ecu is throwing any codes, will ya?

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:16 pm

Finally got started tonight on the car. **** is that manifold barried under whole bunch of **** but it is rather straight forward to remove everything. r34 GTR your help went a long way man thanks.

However i have a few questions:

Does the knock sensor look ok? Its late, maybe its just me but it looks like somethings missing there.

I only relized how bad of a picture this is once i started uplaoding it. But is that red **** normal or is is something like JDM JB Weld? Reason i ask is the upper manifold gasket was perfect, so i am thinking that could be my leak.

And this is how i left it. I nevr got the sub manifold off as the NHL playoffs started tonight so... GO FLAMES GO

Post by **biosehnsucht** » Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:10 pm

the red **** is normal. at least on an old one - not sure if it was on my new one, but I remember seeing it. I think that's just some ghetto way of sealing that nut from coming loose... or maybe they all just leak their wax eventually.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:45 pm

I am finally getting this thing back together and i didn't see the need to start another topic.

My newest issue is the butterfies, after i cleaned them and the runners of all that build up they are sticking. As in if i turn them by hand they don't reset to open they stick. How can i lube them and with what?

Thanks yet again guys

Post by **rico05** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:43 am

You prob just need to soak the lower manifold with B12 or the like man. Any CRC or competetors cleaning spray should do it. As far as lube, that is not really a good idea.

Back on topic, I replaced my DR with a DSM one and no change. I am having my injectors cleaned next week. The shop next door has a new Snap On toy that cycles amonia and other chemicals through the rail, fpr and injectors with them on the car. Basically what RC Enginnering charges $25 per injector to do on their bench. Walk in cost is $145 for 2 hours. I am getting it at cost of chemicals tomorrow. We shall see if that helps.

Post by **Ca_Silvia** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:44 am

B12? CRC?

Post by **r34 gtr** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 10:13 am

Industrial cleaner. Simple Green, Greased Lightning, etc. They all work.

Post by **busteds13** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 1:26 pm

i know this is old, but i just recieved one of those dropin resistors that were on back order, and proceeded to stuff it in the car:looks considerably sexiewr than the janky one i had with the swap, and the car used to have stttudering issues at about 3k going from Head vaccum to boost, at about 0 psi, now thats gone, nice smooth throttle with no hiccups, it got warm here so i cant really tell if the cold start issue is fixed yet or not.anyone else have experiences to share i know it didnt work for rico but anyone else?Holy old thread

Post by **Cams** » Tue Apr 29, 2008 3:02 pm

I replaced the DR with an RX-7 one and that cured my rough / jumpy idle. Changing the Engine Temp Sensor and cleaning the plug on the hardness (was all green and rusted inside) solved the cold start issues for me.

Still waiting for the Ignitor to get here to see if that solves my stuttering on boost (fouling plug on Cylinder #2).

Yes, Another Running Rich Topic-Attn Rico

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