WTF!???!?!

[j30wizz]

So my 93 J and were on our way home from work one night. A semi was in my way so i decided to go around him. Check my mirrors and punch it. Only when it was time to do so, she started bucking. Wouldn't go over 3500 RPM. So I take it to a mechanic the next morning and he says its my MAF sensor. So I got some cleaner and cleaned it. Now it won't start. So I replaced it. I also made an attempt to clean the throttle bodies of carbon build up. Still won't start. I pull the plugs out and see what they look like. Burnt! So I changed them. (Bosch Platinum 2's) Nothing. I checked the ECU and it blinked 5 times slow and 5 times fast (code 55) which means "everything's fine". Quite flabbergasted at this point in time, seeing as I just changed my oil and air filter. Prior to that I changed my fuel filter due to white exhaust. So I beg of thee, any one...HELP before my starter blows and my flywheel goes kaput.

Thanks in advance

[yodawill2000]

Getting Fuel ??

[j30wizz]

Getting Fuel ??

I'm not too car savvy, but I pulled one of the lines from the the fuel pump and put her in the ACC position and there was was fuel coming out on the towel i put down, so yes...

[Sentientbydesign]

White exhaust is from a blown head gasket or water in the gas tank, not from a dirty fuel filter.

The white is usually steam. Blue is oil. Gray/black is overly rich AFR.

[driverdriver]

Use only NGK plugs, others are known to cause problems.

[j30wizz]

White exhaust is from a blown head gasket or water in the gas tank, not from a dirty fuel filter.

The white is usually steam. Blue is oil. Gray/black is overly rich AFR.

No it was thick white smoke and changing it helped solve that problem.

My car starting is what is the problem. I've used Bosch before and they worked fine

[Sentientbydesign]

I'm not trying to argue with you here and I'm sure driverddriver isn't either.

However, white smoke doesn't magically appear because of a difty fuel filter. Something has to be making the smoke white since it's usually transparent.

Also, NGKs are the only "safe" plugs to use. It's talked about throughout all of NICO.

[yodawill2000]

I concurI wish I could find that post of a Q45 guy that had Bosch plugs and one of them blew the electrode off.Ugly it was.

[j30wizz]

I'm not arguing w/ anyone. That problem has passed and I just ordered some NGK plugs. I just need my car started. No need to keep bringing up the fuel filter because it doesn't play a role in this equation. I just need to get my car started. Not arguing w/anyone. I know all of you know more then me, I just need help...

[Sentientbydesign]

Ok. Let me see if I can approach this from a different perspective.

After you replaced the fuel filter, was the white smoke gone or just minimized?

I keep bringing it up because it MIGHT hae something to do with your current problem.

[j30wizz]

Ok. Let me see if I can approach this from a different perspective.

After you replaced the fuel filter, was the white smoke gone or just minimized?

I keep bringing it up because it MIGHT hae something to do with your current problem.

Nope. All smoke is gone. It had a funny odor to it but all subsided after I changed it. What, do you think it might be the fuel filter?

[GerryO]

So my 93 J and were on our way home from work one night. A semi was in my way so i decided to go around him. Check my mirrors and punch it. Only when it was time to do so, she started bucking. Wouldn't go over 3500 RPM. So I take it to a mechanic the next morning and he says its my MAF sensor. So I got some cleaner and cleaned it. Now it won't start. So I replaced it. I also made an attempt to clean the throttle bodies of carbon build up. Still won't start. I pull the plugs out and see what they look like. Burnt! So I changed them. (Bosch Platinum 2's) Nothing. I checked the ECU and it blinked 5 times slow and 5 times fast (code 55) which means "everything's fine". Quite flabbergasted at this point in time, seeing as I just changed my oil and air filter. Prior to that I changed my fuel filter due to white exhaust. So I beg of thee, any one...HELP before my starter blows and my flywheel goes kaput.

Thanks in advance

Let's confirm the order of events:

1) changed your fuel filter due to a white exhaust2) changed the oil and air filters3) engine wouldn't rev higher than 3,500 rpms4) Did your mechanic pull an MAF related code and then clear it or just take a guess?5) you cleaned the MAF (no start) and then replaced the MAF (still no start)6) cleaned throttle bodies (still no start)7) you changed the plugs (still no start)

It sure sounds like something common to all six cylinders. In my experience a dirty MAF causes stumbles at the shift points and violent bucking at freeway speeds. One that is physically not connected, but still electrically connected, will cause the engine to slowly die soon after it starts. The engine will crank, but will not start with a disconnected TPS.

Blue/oil related smoke lingers, where white/water vapor related "smoke" dissipates more quickly.

Good luck.

[Sentientbydesign]

When the MAF goes into "safety mode" it prevents the engine from revving past 3500 rpm. That's probably where that came from.

I'm a little lost as to what the problem is.

[yodawill2000]

Three things make an engine run. kindaFuel , Fire , Oxygen ..If you have those three then timing is the 4th dimension , Or sumptin'

[GerryO]

Three things make an engine run. kindaFuel , Fire , Oxygen ..If you have those three then timing is the 4th dimension , Or sumptin'

Gimmie some compression too!

[GerryO]

When the MAF goes into "safety mode" it prevents the engine from revving past 3500 rpm. That's probably where that came from.

Is the MAF "safety mode" described anywhere? I'm trying to picture the MAF telling the ECM that the engine is getting too little air flow, too much or the correct amount in combination with all of the other inputs to it.

I know that too little air flow moving past the MAF will cause the engine to die.

[j30wizz]

Is the MAF "safety mode" described anywhere? I'm trying to picture the MAF telling the ECM that the engine is getting too little air flow, too much or the correct amount in combination with all of the other inputs to it.

I know that too little air flow moving past the MAF will cause the engine to die.

How do I know if the MAF is in safety mode? The problem now at this point of time is that the J's not starting. When she did start, wouldn't drive over 3500 rpm...

[j30wizz]

I'm about to upload a vid on you tube to show you whats going on...

[j30wizz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hYMeSlJjX4

this explains everything...

[GerryO]

I've watched the video (with no sound). What are the two lights on the bottom of the instrument cluster that are ON?

I've also Googled "maf safety mode" and read a few things about a default mode for an MAF that is connected, but not working that sound logical.

There are at least three other owners that have recently posted similar problems, but no one has reported back with any success.

[j30wizz]

I've watched the video (with no sound). What are the two lights on the bottom of the instrument cluster that are ON?

I've also Googled "maf safety mode" and read a few things about a default mode for an MAF that is connected, but not working that sound logical.

There are at least three other owners that have recently posted similar problems, but no one has reported back with any success.

window wiper fluid, ABS and No seat belt...

[StevieRaySTL]

-- Wow, your vid. really made me want to help, although I'm no mechanic. Is it shifting through the gears at all? Are you able to slowly get it up to speed, or is it staying in a low gear? One thing that stood out to me was how your temp needle was moving. Seemed strange, like the movement wasn't really reflecting temp change, but an electrical issue or something. Just a couple of stabs in the dark here, but I'd check out your electrical system, batt, alternator, etc. also have your transmission checked out. How's the trans. fluid look? Hope this helps in some way, GL, bud.

[gr8scott72]

I would still look into the MAF. Try to find a known good one off another car and swap it out.

[naladude911]

oy mines doing similar. It got good acceleration, but when im at 60mpg, and wanna go faster its sluggish. I need to change my oil a 108K and im at 107K. How do I clean the MAF?

[driverdriver]

Have you checked your ECU for any codes?

[GerryO]

A few more possibilities and choices:

1) read all of the stuff below

2) remove the plugs and do a compression check

3) squirt some oil in each cylinder, re-check compression, if the readings were low to begin with, install the plugs and try starting the engine

4) disconnect (one at a time and except maybe the two for the O2 sensors) every connector that you can find under the hood, lube the contacts with dielectric grease, reconnect them and try to start the engine each time.

5) disconnect (one at a time again), clean-up and reconnect every engine compartment ground wire and cable that you can find (fuel rail to the engine, engine to the body, etc).

5) rings are not sealing or valves are not opening and closing, meaning you need to circulate some engine oil, or there is a bad electrical connection? Take your pick.

6) search the forums/internet....more

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- « Re: Q45 Engine won't start: any thoughts? (maxnix) 3:41 PM 11/28/2005

OK, here's what happened. I did have an early Christmas!

An infinity dealer mechanic told me it was a long shot, but there was a chance that the "hydraulic lifters" had bled down. He said that he had seen it once in his 17 years as an Infinity mechanic.

He suggested that the lifters were holding the valves open, thus no compression. And I tell you that the engine was spinning fast a freely when it wouldn't start. The crankshaft was turning, the camshaft was turning, but the lifters weren't moving the valves. The engine must have compression, fire, and gas to start.

His suggestion was to hold the gas pedal down, simulating the choke effect, and just crank the engine until the engine starts. And that it might take three to eight minutes to start.

So, the engine had been pronounced dead by timing chain suicide by five mechanics and had been down for five weeks. I was sick because I had just put 1800$ into new AC and alternator.

So I ran over to the shop late in the evening and turned it over two minutes before the battery ran down. At the last second I detected an firing event.We charged the new battery up next morning, and cranked on it for three minutes.By the Grace of God it started! Ran like nothing ever happened, like it did before, which is smooth as silk! The mechanic was duh..duh..duh all over himself.

Ok, so the lifters bled down. I still don't know what that really means, but it's the best Christmas gift of the year!

bravetex---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DrewQ45

Well, I think your tech. got the right fix, but for the wrong reason! It's very, very, common for these engines to flood during cold weather if they aren't allowed to warm up properly after a cold start and then shut down. A typical scenario is someone starts the car to move it to a different space, then tuns the car off in less than a minute.What's happening is the ECU is set up to send a very heavy hit of fuel to the cylinders while trying to start in cold weather. Esentially it's a choke - but instead of removing air, it adds fuel - same effect on the fuel mixture, but different route. But - if the car is turned off soon after start-up, all of that extra fuel is left sitting in the cylinders. Then it washes the oil off of the cylinder rings.... so compression is lost. "Flooring" the pedal during cranking is the ECU's signal that the driver thinks the engine is flooded so it shuts off injectors...

Heath
Modified by GerryO at 8:07 PM 9/13/2008

[j30wizz]

naladude911Get a socket wrench I believe 10mm. Its between the intake and the air inlets connected to the throttle bodies (has a little black box on it). There's a clamp connecting to the inlets, I think its an 8mm. Pull it out the car and get some MAF Sensor Cleaner from Autozone. Also, get some electrical contact cleaner and a wire brush. Spray both sides of the MAF and let it dry. Then take the e. contact cleaner and spray the male plug and female plug. Get it nice and clean with the wire brush. Connect everything back together and she should be better...

GerryO, Thanks, I will try everything you said to try and report back later.

2 x driver,I changed out the ECU just for kicks and it gave me the same code the stock one did (55)
Modified by j30wizz at 5:50 AM 9/14/2008

[naladude911]

ya, i should check my ECU codes, il do it today. Umm, what does cleaning the MAF do exactly. Just gets out all of the dust for better airflow?

[GerryO]

ya, i should check my ECU codes, il do it today. Umm, what does cleaning the MAF do exactly. Just gets out all of the dust for better airflow?

It's about cleaning the inside of the MAF and the two fine-wires inside (don't touch them with anything other than the stream of the spray cleaner) of it that sense air flow, and for more accurate measurement of airflow, which is constantly communicated to and used by the ECM to control engine operation.

Sounds good, huh?

The air filter upstream of the MAF defends against dirt and dust, and slowly clogs, limiting the amount of air flow.

[Q45tech]

The circuit board inside MAF is soldered to external connector AND the maf sensor element, after 10 years these solder connections crystalize and become intermitent-----changing the voltages ecu sees.

An intermitent voltage drop out is the normal problem, When a 1.9 volts suddenly drops to 1.1 volts or lower...........ecu throws up and engine dies.

The ecu expects a range of MAF voltage 1.1>4.4 based on rpm and TPS voltage. If the MAF reads +- 20% of that expected voltage ecu say everything appear ok and lets MAF control injector opening time.

When thing get out of whack or near limit --- cycling between good and marginal the ecu switches and ignores MAF to try to keep engine running.

ECU uses fixed temp and barometer numbers in fail safe which may not be near reality thus weird engine performances.

I resolder some MAF and that usually solves the intermitents for a year but the thermal stresses and vibrations have taken their toll. Replacement with new is the only long term solutions.

Junkyard/ebay units may be worse than what you have?