Worried that I got hosed, expert opinions needed

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
Contact:

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yeah, just keep procrastinating like me!


capn
Posts: 5
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2004 7:40 am
Car: working and workin on cars

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get a little purple bottle of greased lighting spray it on the areas with grease and grime let it soak and hose off and BAM it will be spectacular

charlotte240
Posts: 177
Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 5:36 pm

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Well, by luck (or lack thereof) I found out why my synchros were going out. I changed the oil in my transmission when I did my swap. I used the 80w90 like the FSM said, HOWEVER I did not use API GL-4 or compatible oil. I used API GL-5 (that's the most common). In fact, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto Parts, and NAPA did not have API GL-4 oil.

To quote 09/04 issue of Turbo Magazine:

"Most automotive applications specify either a GL-4 or GL-5 service classification. API GL-5 lubricants are most commonly specified for moderate to severe duty hypoid gears, such as those found in the differential of a rear-wheel-drive vehicle. GL-4 lubricants are typically specified for synchronized manual transmissions. It's important to be careful not to use a GL-5 classified lubricant in an application which specifies a GL-4 lube. The reason for this has to due with the level of EP additives in each. GL-5 fluids will typically have a higher degree of EP additives, which tend to be corrosive in high concentration. The corrosive nature of these EP additives can attack soft metals such as bronze and copper found in applications which specify a GL-4 lubricant." (page 154)

Well I got my MOTUL oil in today which is definatly a GL-4 oil. So I'm going to go change that now. Somebody may want to make this a sticky or something because that's a pretty easy mistake, especially since it's hard to find the right oil.


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