I love this thread
You're a dictionary for us grip folks. I'll get there someday heh, and prob use (gasp) better suited coils for grip as well.
Do you have a PS cooler at all? I don't run one at the moment because my car was a SOHC and I didn't save the cooling loop line from my DOHC car. I haven't had any problems... yet. LMK your thoughts on the PS issue.
Good luck next season, stay safe yo
Winter 08 build: The track package
Re: (Didderson)
It should be a dictionary on over spending.The biggest short coming on the car is the driver, more than the coilovers. Unless you're going to spend over $2500, there really isn't much out there for you. I debated heavily between JIC and KTS. You need shock travel on the S-Chassis. NONE of the Japanese coilovers offer shock travel. KW Variant 3s are pretty much the best you can get off the shelf for under $2k. But they don't make a z32 bottom mount. There was no way I wasn't going to swap in z32 uprights, and save 8 lbs of unsprung weight on each corner.Didderson wrote:I love this thread
You're a dictionary for us grip folks. I'll get there someday heh, and prob use (gasp) better suited coils for grip as well.
Do you have a PS cooler at all? I don't run one at the moment because my car was a SOHC and I didn't save the cooling loop line from my DOHC car. I haven't had any problems... yet. LMK your thoughts on the PS issue.
Good luck next season, stay safe yo
I have a slight day dream of going with some custom JRZ or Moton coilovers. You're basically looking at a $5k investment on the cheap side. Really not worth it on an old Japanese box.
I'm not running a cooler, if after the reservoir swap I'm having issues I'll be swapping in a cooler. I do have the factory loop running. I really think the 350z reservoir will solve my problem.
Re: (Bumnah)
As an after thought to my previous post. A Koni and Ground control setup is probably the best option for S chassis owners. Depending on how good your parts purchasing skills are, you're looking at a $1500-$2000 investment. That may be my next step. I'm really unsure. To me I have plenty of room to grow still.
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mattblancarte
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:14 pm
- Car: 2005 BMW M3 Comp. Coupe
Re: (Bumnah)
Dude if you are in the Seattle area, you can definitely get some seat time in my car.
If your timing is lucky, I may be out at a track day when you're here. Nothing like a white-knuckle ride on Pacific Raceways.
If your timing is lucky, I may be out at a track day when you're here. Nothing like a white-knuckle ride on Pacific Raceways.
Re: (mattblancarte)
The wedding is on a Saturday, unless you have a track event mid week, I don't see that happening. Either way I'm more inclined to head that far North now.
Early April, stay in town.
Early April, stay in town.
Re: (Bumnah)
Started the fender rolling.
I'm rolling the fenders, and doing a slight pull.
Original panel:
My slight pull job:
What do you guys think?
I kind of want to keep pulling the fenders in a vain attemp to not look so vato with my track rims and tires.
I'm rolling the fenders, and doing a slight pull.
Original panel:
My slight pull job:
What do you guys think?
I kind of want to keep pulling the fenders in a vain attemp to not look so vato with my track rims and tires.
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SolaraOnBronze
- Posts: 725
- Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:04 am
- Car: 1993 240sx SR20DET
- Contact:
Re: (Bumnah)
Looking good! I like a nice mild pull, keeps things clean.
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mRodiek
- Posts: 2153
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:42 am
- Car: Stock Hatch
- Location: CHICangeles
- Contact:
Re: (Bumnah)
You think your body is in piss poor condition? Thats cute
Re: (DriftBoy07)
Paint is fading on the hood, and on the roof.
Huge dent on the passenger side 1/4 panel (you can see it in the pix).Dings everywhere.
What do you want me to call it, a cream puff?
Huge dent on the passenger side 1/4 panel (you can see it in the pix).Dings everywhere.
What do you want me to call it, a cream puff?
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mRodiek
- Posts: 2153
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:42 am
- Car: Stock Hatch
- Location: CHICangeles
- Contact:
Re: (Bumnah)
How about decent, or in need of some work? lol If you want to feel better just take a look at my car, or any of the other 240s that are beat to hell & have rattle can paint.
Just saying, your car appears much cleaner [in pics at least] than many 240s around.
Just saying, your car appears much cleaner [in pics at least] than many 240s around.
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mattblancarte
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:14 pm
- Car: 2005 BMW M3 Comp. Coupe
Re: (DriftBoy07)
Nice! Let's see it with the wheels on the car.
Re: (mattblancarte)
I'm getting it aligned tomorrow. So pics with it on the ground today. I'm going to use my street tires right now. I'll swap in the track tires next weekend.
Yeah I suppose it is better than other 240s, but it's still pretty terrible. I only wash the car once a year. Feels dumb to wash it often, I mean the paint sucks.
Yeah I suppose it is better than other 240s, but it's still pretty terrible. I only wash the car once a year. Feels dumb to wash it often, I mean the paint sucks.
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ILoveMyRHS13
- Posts: 2537
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:04 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx (Hatch)
Re: (Bumnah)
Aluminum bushings review:
Not worth it at all!
First problem, you can't install them without removing the rack. Reinstalling the rack after the bushings are in, isn't cake walk either.Second problem, the column doesn't want to mate to the rack after the rack is reinstalled.
To be fair, the second problem may only be with S13s with the rubber bushing in the column swapped out for an aluminum bushing. I have the aluminum bushing in my column, I think because it's there, there isn't enough flex in the system. This is a hypothesis obviously.
I spoke/complained to Kuah @ SPL on it. He stated he tried to install them on his car (I don't know is it's an S13 or S14), and he felt they were "too thick."
To clarify these aren't made by SPL, I just purchased them through SPL. I told Kuah, they needs to be redesigned by him, and then they'd be worth something. His reply was perhaps a few months down the line. I wouldn't expect these to be on SPL's website anytime soon.
I also had a binding issue after the install, in all fairness, that was probably due to how I got the column and rack to mate (big ****in' hammer). To solve the problem I wound up having to pull the column, and then mating it to the rack from above. That gave me the proper clearance, and removed my binding.
Driving impressions on the street: Slight increase in steering feedback, but nothing dramatic. I'd be just as happy with my poly bushings. Perhaps happier because I wouldn't of had to remove the entire steering system to install them, and then pay for an alignment on top of that.
I'm taking the car to Summit Point this weekend, we'll see how the bushings feel on the track.
DEF's spherical bearings in the uprights:
I noticed more vibration, and drive train noise. I also feel the rear is more planted, and less "sloppy". So far so good. I'm extremely happy with my purchase. I suppose I should thank the metal steering rack bushings for this. Since I needed an alignment because of those bushings, I did the rear bearings as well. They went in to the car sooner than expected.
Not worth it at all!
First problem, you can't install them without removing the rack. Reinstalling the rack after the bushings are in, isn't cake walk either.Second problem, the column doesn't want to mate to the rack after the rack is reinstalled.
To be fair, the second problem may only be with S13s with the rubber bushing in the column swapped out for an aluminum bushing. I have the aluminum bushing in my column, I think because it's there, there isn't enough flex in the system. This is a hypothesis obviously.
I spoke/complained to Kuah @ SPL on it. He stated he tried to install them on his car (I don't know is it's an S13 or S14), and he felt they were "too thick."
To clarify these aren't made by SPL, I just purchased them through SPL. I told Kuah, they needs to be redesigned by him, and then they'd be worth something. His reply was perhaps a few months down the line. I wouldn't expect these to be on SPL's website anytime soon.
I also had a binding issue after the install, in all fairness, that was probably due to how I got the column and rack to mate (big ****in' hammer). To solve the problem I wound up having to pull the column, and then mating it to the rack from above. That gave me the proper clearance, and removed my binding.
Driving impressions on the street: Slight increase in steering feedback, but nothing dramatic. I'd be just as happy with my poly bushings. Perhaps happier because I wouldn't of had to remove the entire steering system to install them, and then pay for an alignment on top of that.
I'm taking the car to Summit Point this weekend, we'll see how the bushings feel on the track.
DEF's spherical bearings in the uprights:
I noticed more vibration, and drive train noise. I also feel the rear is more planted, and less "sloppy". So far so good. I'm extremely happy with my purchase. I suppose I should thank the metal steering rack bushings for this. Since I needed an alignment because of those bushings, I did the rear bearings as well. They went in to the car sooner than expected.
Re: (Bumnah)
Sadly only 2 track events this year. I did manage to slide in some autox events and some drag strips.
Second and most probably last event for me this year is Summit Point in West Virginia.
Next year is more of VIR, Summit Point, and some new tracks, I'm hoping CMP, and Mid Ohio.
Summit Point Main course:
Second and most probably last event for me this year is Summit Point in West Virginia.
Next year is more of VIR, Summit Point, and some new tracks, I'm hoping CMP, and Mid Ohio.
Summit Point Main course:
Re: (Bumnah)
Just read all the pages....I must say alot of hard work has gone into this and it shows. I like the detail and time spent on every single action took on each single pupose on the build. Great job I only wish my 240 would be as half as nice as your car. Keep it up.....
Re: (ELICT2)
Went to the track this weekend. Learned a lot.
2 of the main things I learned.
01.) I'm slow.02.) I need to watch my gauges more often.
Last session of the day. I cooked my fan controller. Lost my fans. Temps went through the roof. Luckily my instructor noticed (also a 240sx driver), and we pitted. I drove around trying to circulate the oil.
I cooked the oil, and turned all the water in the radiator into steam. Luckily the motor is okay, and I was able to get it home.
Oil cooler relocation to be done before February, and a brutal approach to cooling the motor.
Here's an idea of temps:
These are peak numbers so obviously they weren't at this for too long, but they crept up there.
Converted to Fahrenheit, the oil is around 280 F, and the EGT is 1616F.
2 of the main things I learned.
01.) I'm slow.02.) I need to watch my gauges more often.
Last session of the day. I cooked my fan controller. Lost my fans. Temps went through the roof. Luckily my instructor noticed (also a 240sx driver), and we pitted. I drove around trying to circulate the oil.
I cooked the oil, and turned all the water in the radiator into steam. Luckily the motor is okay, and I was able to get it home.
Oil cooler relocation to be done before February, and a brutal approach to cooling the motor.
Here's an idea of temps:
These are peak numbers so obviously they weren't at this for too long, but they crept up there.
Converted to Fahrenheit, the oil is around 280 F, and the EGT is 1616F.
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mattblancarte
- Posts: 1978
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2008 4:14 pm
- Car: 2005 BMW M3 Comp. Coupe
Re: (Bumnah)
What kind of lube and what kind of gas do you run again?
Hope the cooler re-location helps big time.
So you lost the fans on both the radiator and oil cooler? How was coolant temp at max?
Totally can see this happening. I have to run my fans at all times, particularly the pull fan on the oil cooler. I've crept up to 115-120c oil temp before, but it doesn't concern me because it's always the last lap or two of a session, and the oil I use is all good at even 150c.
From what I've been told and what I've read, my motor is in the danger zone at 110c (if ran for a decent amount of time) because of the rod bearings. Not sure if that is the case for the SR, but I can't imagine the story being too different.
Every lap as soon as I exit onto the straightaway at whatever course I'm at, I check the gauges. I had to train myself to do this on my first day with the 240.
Straights usually heat me up the most because of the constant full-boost, so I figure prior-to is a good time to look.
Hope the cooler re-location helps big time.
So you lost the fans on both the radiator and oil cooler? How was coolant temp at max?
Totally can see this happening. I have to run my fans at all times, particularly the pull fan on the oil cooler. I've crept up to 115-120c oil temp before, but it doesn't concern me because it's always the last lap or two of a session, and the oil I use is all good at even 150c.
From what I've been told and what I've read, my motor is in the danger zone at 110c (if ran for a decent amount of time) because of the rod bearings. Not sure if that is the case for the SR, but I can't imagine the story being too different.
Every lap as soon as I exit onto the straightaway at whatever course I'm at, I check the gauges. I had to train myself to do this on my first day with the 240.
Straights usually heat me up the most because of the constant full-boost, so I figure prior-to is a good time to look.
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mRodiek
- Posts: 2153
- Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:42 am
- Car: Stock Hatch
- Location: CHICangeles
- Contact:
Re: (mattblancarte)
Damn sorry to hear Bumnah. I have my fans hooked up to a switch, I turn the switch on whenever I drive [although its only street driving now] so I know they are always running.
Re: (DriftBoy07)
So I finally got around to replacing the fan controller. I got a different FAL controller this time around. I like the simple design, their wiring connections just didn't work properly. I wound up having to get some different pieces to make it work well.
New controller:
Wiring mess:
How I adjusted the thermostat (went for 175-180 temp range for the fans to turn on).
Finally done.
Nice features of this controller are:
6 second delay, to allow the starter to start the car before the fans start taking power.
it only uses 60% of the power to simple maintain your desire temperature. if the temps rise 10 degrees above what your desired temps are, it'll use 100% of it's power.
simple install for the most part.
I also installed a fat 02, required, because I'm switching over to an e5 ecu as well.
New controller:
Wiring mess:
How I adjusted the thermostat (went for 175-180 temp range for the fans to turn on).
Finally done.
Nice features of this controller are:
6 second delay, to allow the starter to start the car before the fans start taking power.
it only uses 60% of the power to simple maintain your desire temperature. if the temps rise 10 degrees above what your desired temps are, it'll use 100% of it's power.
simple install for the most part.
I also installed a fat 02, required, because I'm switching over to an e5 ecu as well.
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mrgreeneyes
- Posts: 2229
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:15 pm
- Car: ///M5
Parted Out Built S13 Coupe
Re: (mrgreeneyes)
No, it was another fal fan controller.
You think I should? The controller is designed to power two fans. Figured it'd be fine as is. However, I'm no wiring expert.
You think I should? The controller is designed to power two fans. Figured it'd be fine as is. However, I'm no wiring expert.
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ILoveMyRHS13
- Posts: 2537
- Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2007 5:04 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240sx (Hatch)
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mrgreeneyes
- Posts: 2229
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 6:15 pm
- Car: ///M5
Parted Out Built S13 Coupe
Re: (ILoveMyRHS13)
ILoveMyRHS13 wrote:UGH
Keegan is all about DOING THINGS RIGHT/MILDLY OVERKILL...
the DIF ones are "made to handle" the output too.. but those are NOTORIOUS for frying.Bumnah wrote:No, it was another fal fan controller.
You think I should? The controller is designed to power two fans. Figured it'd be fine as is. However, I'm no wiring expert.
im just trying to help/save your motor id be more than happy to whip up a diagram if you wanted/needed
Re: (mrgreeneyes)
Nah, I can figure it out.
My previous fan controller didn't fry, it melted. Primarily for my poor choice of mounting location.
I'll look into the relays. I may end up redoing the installing on this guy, because I"m redoing my oil cooler setup this winter as well.
My previous fan controller didn't fry, it melted. Primarily for my poor choice of mounting location.
I'll look into the relays. I may end up redoing the installing on this guy, because I"m redoing my oil cooler setup this winter as well.
Re: (Bumnah)
So, I didn't take pictures of the following stuff, but I recently swapped out my 63 ecu for an E5.
63 is an automatic Red Top Sr20det ecu.E5 is a manual Black Top Sr20det ecu.
To run the E5 ecu on your Red Top you need to run a Fat o2. It's the primary o2 sensor for 97-98 240sx.
The reason I used a 63 ecu in the first place is because it has better timing during shifts. I've never owned a 62 ecu, so I had no way of comparing. The person I sold the 63 ecu to, confirmed the better timing, compared to the 62.
The E5 is significantly better than the 63. My car idles better, drives more smoothly. Less back firing. I believe the o2 mappings are better on the E5.
Either way hope you liked the information.
BTW, I did the switch hoping to correct an issue I have on the track. Around 120 mph, 6500 rpms, 4th gear. My old ecu used to pull timing. Perhaps it senses detonation, but I'm hoping this ecu will cure that. If not, oh well, this one is much more to my liking anyways.
63 is an automatic Red Top Sr20det ecu.E5 is a manual Black Top Sr20det ecu.
To run the E5 ecu on your Red Top you need to run a Fat o2. It's the primary o2 sensor for 97-98 240sx.
The reason I used a 63 ecu in the first place is because it has better timing during shifts. I've never owned a 62 ecu, so I had no way of comparing. The person I sold the 63 ecu to, confirmed the better timing, compared to the 62.
The E5 is significantly better than the 63. My car idles better, drives more smoothly. Less back firing. I believe the o2 mappings are better on the E5.
Either way hope you liked the information.
BTW, I did the switch hoping to correct an issue I have on the track. Around 120 mph, 6500 rpms, 4th gear. My old ecu used to pull timing. Perhaps it senses detonation, but I'm hoping this ecu will cure that. If not, oh well, this one is much more to my liking anyways.
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White Comet
- Posts: 19033
- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 7:22 am
- Car: fc, s13 and mazda6, Sierra
- Location: lancaster, pa
Re: (Bumnah)
nice update, i like the fan setup. from the pics it looks like you have an early model redtop. since that ecu is for a blacktop. were there any wires that had to be repinned?
Re: (White Comet)
Nope, just need to use a fat o2.White Comet wrote:nice update, i like the fan setup. from the pics it looks like you have an early model redtop. since that ecu is for a blacktop. were there any wires that had to be repinned?