Which oils are y'all running?

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PalmerWMD
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ABOUT THE POLL:

What's your most likely synthetic oil; means what would you be most likely to run?So you may consider cost, availability near you, available weights and things like that.

Also EVEN IF YOU AREN"T RUNNING SYN OILS, FEEL FREE to still post to the POLL AND TELL US YOUR FILL.

I'll volunteer my fill in a 91 Q45, with 90+k miles on it.

ValvolineSynPower 5w-40.

(My driving habits are rough on an oil, very short trips to work, with almost weekly streetracing and 7200 rpm almost daily)

Fred...:)WHICH SYN OIL WOULD YOU MOST LIKELY RUN?


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Mayhem_J30
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valvoline. i put the extra $$ in it for mobil if i ever get everything under the plenum redone or got a new car.

Stoneage_Turbo
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mobil 1 5w30 in the engine every 2500, mobil1 synthetic 75w in the transmission every 25000 . if goes in the vette it goes in the G . espiclly now that there will be a turbo hanging off it the Gs engine its more important to use the 5-30 mobil 1 in my opinon .

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PalmerWMD
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Mayhem_J30 wrote:valvoline. i put the extra $$ in it for mobil if i ever get everything under the plenum redone or got a new car.
Mayhem, here in Louisville Valvoline SynPower and MOBIL1 are almost the exact same price....

Fred...:)

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PalmerWMD
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Stoneage_Turbo wrote:mobil 1 5w30 in the engine every 2500, mobil1 synthetic 75w in the transmission every 25000 . if goes in the vette it goes in the G . espiclly now that there will be a turbo hanging off it the Gs engine its more important to use the 5-30 mobil 1 in my opinon .
With a Turbo are you sure:confused: you don't wanna go to the 15w-50?

Fred...:)

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Mayhem_J30
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palmerwmd wrote:
Mayhem, here in Louisville Valvoline SynPower and MOBIL1 are almost the exact same price....

Fred...:)
only if you do it yourself. i just go up to lightning lube because i'm lazy. they charge a little more for mobil vs. the rest of the syns.

Stoneage_Turbo
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You know now im not sure , my dad always told me to run 5w in a turbo as it was something to do with being able to get oil to the bearings quicker in there thats all im going off of , this is sounding like a dear mechainic letter ........or maybe you know something mr palmerwmd ???? do tell ......

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PalmerWMD
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Mike:

Turbos are hot.When spooling down they get even hotter as oil flow may stop before the heat stops.This is called coking and/or baking (at least when involving lesser oils) and will produce both sludge and varnish in your turbocharger.

Almost every manufacturer recommends as a bare minimum a 40 weight oilfor a turbo.Almost all recommend a 50weight such as a 15w-50 or a 20w-50.

Also while a full synthetic 5w-30 'might' be able to handle a turbos heat, cuz of to being a synthetic ,it's still better to go with the proper grade.,

Besides with a modern synthetic, you will have no problems getting oil to the bearings quickly, even when using a thicker formulation.

Fred...:)

PS: remember always idle a turbo for at least a couple of minutes before driving away and after stopping.

Jubs180
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i run 0w30 mobil 1 in my 91 240, now with 141,000k on ithave been using mobil 1 since 80k (when I got the car) (why 0 weight?? NO IDEA!) I live in florida where there is virtually no winter.. so is that the right oil I should be using?

I change about ever 3500 since I put a LOT of miles on my car quickly with driving to school 4 nights a week (50miles to tampa, 50miles back home..)..

I have no knocks, no odd sounds no nothing :)runs good and strong.

Still saving for that CA though :D

-Dan

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Mobil 1 15w50 in engineAmsoil 2000 gear lub 75w90 transmission,

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biggie
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Ok, currently I do not run a syn. So what would you recommend? Like a 10w-40 --I'd go with Mobil or Valvoline. It's had reg Valv(10w-30) it's entire life. Just curious.

trpower7
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I am a big fan of Mobil1, especially the new SuperSyn stuff that's out, I know my KA consumes oil like it's going out of style and this new Mobil slowed it down considerably. I saw a Mobil rep do a demonstration one time that totally turned me to them, he filled a test tube with Mobil1 10W30, and then one with Castrol 10W30, lit a ridiculously hot fire burner beneath the two and throughout his spiel we all watched intently. Sure enough, the Castrol had blackened LONG before the Mobil1, in fact, the Mobil never even showed signs of getting darker by the time we all had to leave.

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PalmerWMD
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Jubs180 wrote:i run 0w30 mobil 1 in my 91 240, now with 141,000k on ithave been using mobil 1 since 80k (when I got the car) (why 0 weight?? NO IDEA!) I live in florida where there is virtually no winter.. so is that the right oil I should be using?

I change about ever 3500 since I put a LOT of miles on my car quickly with driving to school 4 nights a week (50miles to tampa, 50miles back home..)..

-Dan
With your milage, location (FL), and driving habits you are a textbookcase of needing thicker oil.I would recommend at least a 40 weight oil, such as Valvoline 5w-40, AMSOIL 10w-40.MOBIL1 also makes a 40 weight in a 0w-40 but it's hard to find and I think that multiviscosity spread (40-0=40) is just too large even in a full synthetic.But futures oil analysis and results may show it to be fine despite the large spread,

Fred...:)

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lonallenq45
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Mobil 1 15-50W

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PalmerWMD
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biggie wrote:Ok, currently I do not run a syn. So what would you recommend? Like a 10w-40 --I'd go with Mobil or Valvoline. It's had reg Valv(10w-30) it's entire life. Just curious.
Biggie:The regular Valvoline is a good oil as far as mineral oils go.I dont know your budget, but as you know I like synthetic oils and am a friend of oils thicker than teh now so common 30 weights.

Valvoline makes a 5w-40, MOBIL 1 makes a 0w-40 (even harder to find), and AMSOIL makes an excellent synthetic 10w-40.

Another good choice in a 40 weight is Valvoline Durablend 10w-40 at less than 2/3rds the cost of the ValvolineSynpower/MOBIL1

Fred...:)

maxnix
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Use Mobil 1 10-30W May-September, 0-30W October-April in Seattle.

Texas car is not driven in Summer, so 10-30W all the time.

Spectre
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I'm putting in Syntec today, with a K&N oil filter for assurance of proper oil pressure at high rpm.

I won't vote on the poll because royal purple isn't up there(look em up).

I like syntec because it contains .1% zinc. For those that don't know zinc in motor oils is meant to protect the engine from wear incase oil isn't present. The downside of zinc is that it leaves deposits over time, however I feel that I'm better off with it than without.

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PalmerWMD
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I thought Royal Pruple wasn't a synthetic?But you have good company,.. there is at least one other member who likes Royal Purple as well..They have a loyal following.

Of course now that I think about it, neither is castrol Syntec, it's a modifed GroupIII base stock oil a non syn.But it's sold as a synthetic and it meets some of the tough requirements generally only met by full synthetics (GM4718, ACEA A3 and others)

Fred...:)

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I don't use synthetic because I heard it was bad for a high mileage engine to run synthetic. Did I hear wrong??

trpower7
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Mobil1's new SuperSyn 10W30 and 15W50 are fine for high mileage engines, Mobil has been hard at work on their oils so that us people with higher mileage engines can use thm.

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PalmerWMD
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GodDrivesA240sx wrote:I don't use synthetic because I heard it was bad for a high mileage engine to run synthetic. Did I hear wrong??
Yes, you heard wrong..:pface

Back in the old days syn oils lacked the swelling agents that mineral oils had.Causing seals to lose fit and leak.Thats no longer the case, actually Syn oils have some components of their base stock having seal sweller effect(esters), which is even better so now you don't need to use additives for seal swelling in syns, which saves room that can be used on other additives (anti-wear, anti foam etc) or on more base stock.

Every engine out there, regardless of milage can benefit from the superior properties of syn oils.

Fred...:)

AlabamaDan
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Ok guys, I've pretty much just used 10W-40 because that's the way it's always been done. I do think that synthetic is better and run Mobile 1. What should I use in my:

95 J30 with 90,000 miles. I drive 50 miles a day as a general rule. (25 to work each way.) I usually end up just putting around in stop and go traffic most of the time. I rarely take it out for road trips. I usually don't open it up, but I push it out of the hole.

97 QX4 with 85,000 miles driven by my wife. Usually short trips running around doing mommy things with the kids. She has a heavy foot and tends to either be accelerating or brakes - no coasting for her.

I'd really like to know what the right thing to do is.

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PalmerWMD
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Danny where do you live?

Fred...:)

AlabamaDan
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in Atlanta.

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PalmerWMD
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Caveat:

The recommendation of grades of oil and types of oil is easy.When recommending brands however, one will often shortchange some good oils, one may have no experience with ( example MOTUL?)

95 J30 with 90,000 miles:

Since you live in Atlanta and drive mostly on the hiway a 40 weight oil is what you need.AMSOIL makes an excellent 10w-40, which would be a first choice if availabilty was not an issue.

Other 40 weight full synthetic oils are.MOBIL1 0w-40 (hard to get, also only at MB and Porsche dealers until recently), besides I think the spread is too wide, from a 0 to a 40, even for a full synthetic, maybe as a winter oil with not extended drain intervals.

5w-40 Valvoline Synpower, my current favorite it has the 40 weight I recommend and also has more detergents than MOBIL1 which is a consideration at 90,000 miles.(My recommendation)

97 QX4, 85,000 miles short trips:

Because of the short trips I would like a formulation with high detergent (such as Valvoline SynPower, valvoline Durablend, AMSOIL?, MOBIL driveclean), BUT because of the demanding driving environment you want a synthetic, preferably a 40 weight again.

Again 5w-40 valvoline Synpower or MOBIL1 0w-40 ( but probably a bit low on detergent).

AMSOIL if you wanna go that route in 10w40 is also great choice.

So again considering availability my recommendation is Valvoline Synpower in 5w-40 (all year round in Atlanta) assuming you keep reasonable oil change habits.

(kinda Ironic that 2 differnt requirements worked out to be the same oil).

If you have a habit of extending yours, say past 4000 miles, then you should go with a more stable 10w-30 formulation.

The 5w-40 SynPower has probably too large a spread for extended drain and I would not leave it in for more than say 4000 miles tops.A 10w-30 can stay in longer than a 5w-40.Also if you like to extend your drain intervals definetly avoid Castrol Syntec (Class III base stock).

SUMMARY:

ValvolineSynPower in 5w-40 is my recommendation for both vehicles , works out well too so you don't have to keep two oils on hand.

But if you like to extend drain intervals much beyond 3000 miles and you are confident you engine internals are clean, MOBIL1 10w-30 is not a bad choice either.Or Exxon SuperFlowGOld synthetic in 10w-30, has almost the exact same performance specs as MOBIL1 for 2/3rds the price of MOBIL1.

Fred...:)

Spectre
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palmerwmd wrote:I thought Royal Pruple wasn't a synthetic?

Of course now that I think about it, neither is castrol Syntec, it's a modifed GroupIII base stock oil a non syn.
Royal purple is a synthetic, I know someone that uses it in his Supra.

If that's true with syntec then it would legaly be considered fraud. Where did you read that?

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PalmerWMD
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Spectre I didn't mean to make you feel bad, Syntec it's still spec'ed out very hi..

But as for not being a syn,.. its true it isn't.

In 97 I think they changed from being a PAO syn (class IV base stock) to using class III base stocks thru mostly via hydroisomerization and modification of base stock.

They do more with hydroisomerization than most folks do and the end result is pretty good (just not as stable as a base stock consisting of PAO's or esters).They also modify the product of their hydroiomerization process to improve it luibricant properties to be in the same class basically as a full syn.

However the plain english as well as scientific meaning of the word, "synthetic" is taking smaller molecules and making it into one bigger molecule with the desired properties.

They have indeed been sued for marketing their Syntec as synthetic, by MOBIL (which uses ethylene molecules and adds them up into polyalpha olefins, one of the most common and most respected synthetic base stocks, like AMSOIL, Valvoline Synpower, Exxon SUperflow Gold, MOTUL, redline also do)

However CASTROILS Inc successfully defended the suit claiming that they modify their molecule enough to call it synthetic.

The fear has been among many, that other motor oil producers will do the samne now and label oils as synthetic that are just heavily modified but cannot offer the purity advantage a real synthetic has over a modified basestock.

Fred...:)

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PalmerWMD
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About Royal Purple...

I am sure it's a very good oil.. but even the company isn't claiming it to be a synthetic.

They refer to a "synthetic additive""Synerlec" or similiar name.

But I am all for diversity and think its good that smaller firms like Royal Purple have a following.:cool: And for them to stay in business despite the big guys' competition, they must have a good product.But a aynthetic it isn't.Which is why it wasn't included in my poll.

Castrol made it in, cuz it's still marketed as a syn and can meet the higher specs that full synthetics generally meet (GM4718M, ACEA A3, MB 229.1)

Fred...:)

Bubba
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NAtural oil is all you need and all I've ever used. I have 193,000 on my S-13, I commute with her plus run her hard on roadrace circuits 4 times a year (just spent 2 days at Watkins Glen) and she still runs great. My humble opinion is that synthetic is a waste unless you're going to extend your oil change intervals.

Spectre
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palmerwmd wrote:Spectre I didn't mean to make you feel bad, Syntec it's still spec'ed out very hi..Fred...:)
You didn't make me feel bad man. I'd just like to know where you got your info. It seems odd that their oil would also meet the performance standards of porsche if it wasn't a full synthetic. Things don't seem to be adding up. I've been doing research lately to dispel the naysayer rumors about synthetic oil, I just want the facts. :peace


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