What to do about this

[shift_SRDETuser]

Hey Guys am posting this here and need some advice

I have an s14 sr20det which ran great up till last week --- I was driving the heck out of it and the turbo seperated from the etxhaust manifold enough to suck air into it and I did not catch it in time and did not have enough experience to understand what to do. I am pulling the turbo off since it is destroyed-- has in and out shaft play and is siezed will not move. I am going to get a aftermarket header to go along with an aftermarket exhaust-- I need to know if the turbo which was running on stock 7 lbs could have damaged the valve train or the internals on the engine-- would it spike enough to do harm to it if it was sucking air from a gap in the turbo flange. The turbo is seized makes an awful noise and I am about to replace it but I am just wondering it is possible to have done some damage to the valve train since I have some valve train noise on idle which goes away when rpm rises. I do not know if it is the seized turbo which makes a noise or the timing chain or valves or lashes-- sooo please help. I am not good at head work but can bolt things on and off-- It is not burning oil but using coolant since the turbo is seized and it is getting really really hot...

[Justin35ll]

Well if the turbo became loose from the manifold studs it wouldn't have been sucking air in. It would have just had an exhaust leak before the turbo.I don't think this would have caused any valve train damageIf you buy a new turbo manifold just make sure you get one with the right flange to bolt up to your turbo

[shift_SRDETuser]

Well if the turbo became loose from the manifold studs it wouldn't have been sucking air in. It would have just had an exhaust leak before the turbo.I don't think this would have caused any valve train damageIf you buy a new turbo manifold just make sure you get one with the right flange to bolt up to your turbo

Could it screw up the timing? The exhaust leak ruined the turbo it is DEAD-- I have talked to several shops that do sr swaps and they said the downpipe should be hanged close enough to the turbo elbow to were it puts 0 weight on the turbo and flange....

[IanS]

Its likely your oil feed line is plugged. This starved the CHRA of oil and it began to seize. This created added pressure inside the manifold collector which brought light to an exhaust leak.

Having the turbo come loose is a very common problem. There is a good chance it was looks for a while, you just didnt know until the bearings began to fail.

Make sure to clean your oil lines.

[shift_SRDETuser]

Its likely your oil feed line is plugged. This starved the CHRA of oil and it began to seize. This created added pressure inside the manifold collector which brought light to an exhaust leak.

Having the turbo come loose is a very common problem. There is a good chance it was looks for a while, you just didnt know until the bearings began to fail.

Make sure to clean your oil lines.

Clean the O connectors or how do you clean the oil lines.....????

[IanS]

Clean the O connectors or how do you clean the oil lines.....????

Just pull them out of the car, and clear them out with a can of carb cleaner. There is a very small oil restrictor in the feed line and it is easy for a carbon flake or other piece of debris to clog it.

The return line is just a rubber hose leading to the oil pan, its a good idea to pull it off as well to clean it out. If the return line clogs, it will blow out the turbine seals.

[shift_SRDETuser]

screw it how about I replace them with thesehttp://www.takamotorsports.com/

[IanS]

screw it how about I replace them with thesehttp://www.takamotorsports.com/

A full set of braided lines would do the trick, just make sure you get the correct size oil restrictor. I dont remember off the top of my head what size is needed.

[shift_SRDETuser]

As always FBI you are dead on -- I am ordering an s15 gt28r and if I blow this one up -- I will NUKE my car. Do you have any exhaust stainless steel suggestions. I am getting rid of the old cast iron job -- maybe ceramic coated stainless-----

Oh is the stock s15 sr20det waste gate set at 7 lbs so I do not blow up my motor?

[IanS]

As always FBI you are dead on -- I am ordering an s15 gt28r and if I blow this one up -- I will NUKE my car. Do you have any exhaust stainless steel suggestions. I am getting rid of the old cast iron job -- maybe ceramic coated stainless-----

Oh is the stock s15 sr20det waste gate set at 7 lbs so I do not blow up my motor?

The BB turbo's are much beefier, they will handle a lot more abuse, you should be happy with it.

As far as wastegate spring pressure, I am relatively sure they are set at 7.5 psi from the factory, just like the T25s.

If all your studs are intact, I would recommend sticking with the cast manifold. You will benefit more from an extrude honed and coated stock manifold than you will from a cheap tubular SS unit.

[shift_SRDETuser]

The BB turbo's are much beefier, they will handle a lot more abuse, you should be happy with it.

As far as wastegate spring pressure, I am relatively sure they are set at 7.5 psi from the factory, just like the

If all your studs are intact, I would recommend sticking with the cast manifold. You will benefit more from an extrude honed and coated stock manifold than you will from a cheap tubular SS unit.

Ok that is what I will do -- I have a local shop that can do that for me- I will just have to sand down the flange making it flat.....

[Justin35ll]

I hope this didn't happen to my sr. My bolts holding the turbo on the manifold were pretty loose and I could move it around. I checked for shaft play and there is 0 back and forth like 1mm up and down.Maybe I should replace the lines with ss

[shift_SRDETuser]

I hope this didn't happen to my sr. My bolts holding the turbo on the manifold were pretty loose and I could move it around. I checked for shaft play and there is 0 back and forth like 1mm up and down.Maybe I should replace the lines with ss

shaft play in and out = BAD

shaft play up and down = NOT BAD

I wonder if a stainless steel manifold would help seal this off -- What makes these bolts hold together? I have heard of this problem on lot of SRs and it kinda pisses me off....

[IanS]

shaft play in and out = BAD

shaft play up and down = NOT BAD

I wonder if a stainless steel manifold would help seal this off -- What makes these bolts hold together? I have heard of this problem on lot of SRs and it kinda pisses me off....

In my experience the main causes are two things.

Heat, and weight.

Too many people fail to hang the downpipe to the transmission, this puts a lot of stress on the 4 turbo to manifold studs, when you add heat to the mixture stretching occurs. Add a little vibration and you get nuts that like to come loose.

Ive found that by attaching the downpipe to the transmission properly, and by re torquing the nuts after the first 2 or 3 heat cycles, the problem can be eliminated completely regardless of what manifold it is being used.

[shift_SRDETuser]

In my experience the main causes are two things.

Heat, and weight.

Too many people fail to hang the downpipe to the transmission, this puts a lot of stress on the 4 turbo to manifold studs, when you add heat to the mixture stretching occurs. Add a little vibration and you get nuts that like to come loose.

Ive found that by attaching the downpipe to the transmission properly, and by re torquing the nuts after the first 2 or 3 heat cycles, the problem can be eliminated completely regardless of what manifold it is being used.

so you do not use the locking tabs? and do you think i could have valve train damage from this on only stock boost? i am running the stock boost solenoid sooo will it not boost past 7 lbs regardless of turbo?

[IanS]

so you do not use the locking tabs? and do you think i could have valve train damage from this on only stock boost? i am running the stock boost solenoid sooo will it not boost past 7 lbs regardless of turbo?

I hate those locking tabs, they annoy me. The last time I pulled the turbo was around this time last year, I think I put about 15,000 mile on it since then, with no issues.

I actually had a turbo drop off completely due to stud breakage, and I experienced no head related damage. I wouldnt be too worried about it.

As far as the boost solenoid goes, Ive never run one, so Im not the guy to ask. That being said, physics says that the solenoid and wastegate will work the same regardless of what size turbo is creating the pressure.

[shift_SRDETuser]

I hate those locking tabs, they annoy me. The last time I pulled the turbo was around this time last year, I think I put about 15,000 mile on it since then, with no issues.

I actually had a turbo drop off completely due to stud breakage, and I experienced no head related damage. I wouldnt be too worried about it.

As far as the boost solenoid goes, Ive never run one, so Im not the guy to ask. That being said, physics says that the solenoid and wastegate will work the same regardless of what size turbo is creating the pressure.

alright so -- putting this together once I get the bolts on and a few hangers installed === I should check them after each couple of drives and make sure they are still tight?

[IanS]

alright so -- putting this together once I get the bolts on and a few hangers installed === I should check them after each couple of drives and make sure they are still tight?

Make sure to follow proper turbo break in procedure, then yes, after a few heat cycles, check the tightness of the bolts. By heat cycles, I mean heating it up to running temp, then letting it cool all the way down. Once break in is done, I would suggest driving the car hard, hard enough to get the manifold glowing orange, then let it cool down and re check the bolts.

[shift_SRDETuser]

Make sure to follow proper turbo break in procedure, then yes, after a few heat cycles, check the tightness of the bolts. By heat cycles, I mean heating it up to running temp, then letting it cool all the way down. Once break in is done, I would suggest driving the car hard, hard enough to get the manifold glowing orange, then let it cool down and re check the bolts.

Alright I will take a look at it following this procedure thanks...

[shift_SRDETuser]

Alright I will take a look at it following this procedure thanks...

FBI what would you think about using some of these frsport offers replacement studs and locking copper nuts that are suppose not to back out -- the only deal is copper is pretty soft.....

http://www.frsport.com/FRSport....html

[IanS]

FBI what would you think about using some of these frsport offers replacement studs and locking copper nuts that are suppose not to back out -- the only deal is copper is pretty soft.....

http://www.frsport.com/FRSport....html

Ive seen those for sale before, but never met anyone who has used them. They are meant to hold the elbow to the turbo, not the turbo to the manifold. I agree they would be soft, but not so soft that they would fall off. They are damn cheap, I would give them a try.

What do you plan to use for a gasket?

[shift_SRDETuser]

Ive seen those for sale before, but never met anyone who has used them. They are meant to hold the elbow to the turbo, not the turbo to the manifold. I agree they would be soft, but not so soft that they would fall off. They are damn cheap, I would give them a try.

What do you plan to use for a gasket?

the oem gasket t3 nissan -- which I will order some more. Just in case.

I think I will try those bolts and post updates with pics ---
Modified by shift_SRDETuser at 11:08 AM 11/8/2008

[IanS]

the oem gasket t3 nissan -- which I will order some more. Just in case.

I think I will try those bolts and post updates with pics ---

Modified by shift_SRDETuser at 11:08 AM 11/8/2008

You need a T2 gasket, not a T3, the T3 will be too big.

[shift_SRDETuser]

You need a T2 gasket, not a T3, the T3 will be too big.

nissan part number 14415-17m00 is that the t2 flange?????

One will come with the expreme tomei manifold I ordered.....

[shift_SRDETuser]

Its likely your oil feed line is plugged. This starved the CHRA of oil and it began to seize. This created added pressure inside the manifold collector which brought light to an exhaust leak.

Having the turbo come loose is a very common problem. There is a good chance it was looks for a while, you just didnt know until the bearings began to fail.

Make sure to clean your oil lines.

I had an exhaust leak where the turbo bolts on but the shop I took it to fixed it with double nuts and some rtv type copper metal gasket stuff. I had a 3 inch custom made cat installed. I hooked a boost gauge up to it and what was usually boosting at 5-7 lbs is now boosting 8-10 lbs. So now I am really kinda of confused. I quess I did not for sure kill my turbo after all since it is spooling but I do have in and out shaft play so I think the bearings are kinda of gone and it did puff white smoke for a little while.

What should I do-- say screw it and order some 550 cc nismo injectors, a z 32 maf and a jwt tune and call it a day at 300 whp or so --- or just replace the stock turbo with a gt28r s15 turbo and keep it around 8-10 lbs stock. Which I do not think it will hurt the car since it seems to be doing ok. The engine acts likes it wants to die when I come to a stop -- I quess lack of backpressure. I just do not want to blow this engine up since it is like 3 grand and I have a lot of money in it already.

Any advice would be appreciated--

[IanS]

The only advice I can give you on this is dealing with the stalling/

Are you running a recirced BOV, have you cleaned your IACV lately?

[shift_SRDETuser]

Yes I have cleaned t

The only advice I can give you on this is dealing with the stalling/

Are you running a recirced BOV, have you cleaned your IACV lately?

Yes I have cleaned the IACV-- I run a recirculated blow off valve an HKS that does its job well-- I think having a little over 3 inch exhaust on a stock sr20det s14 motor is over kill.. I have seen your setup in a sig pic you had FBI -- Looks like you are running a boost gauge and wideband a/f meter.

I just am trying to figure out what my goals are and what I utimatley what to achieve out of this car. I am thinking 300 hp is good then a part of me wants 400whp and a scream demon....

I just need help figuring out a direction. The car never will kick a check engine light because in Japan tuners are like barbers there are ones on every corner.....the sr20det is meant to be modified and tuned -- it can handle lots of abuse....

[IanS]

Yes I have cleaned tThe car never will kick a check engine light because in Japan tuners are like barbers there are ones on every corner.....the sr20det is meant to be modified and tuned -- it can handle lots of abuse....

Actually mine kicks the CEL on all the time. The thing is, 99% of people dont hook up the wires for the CEL when they swap.

[shift_SRDETuser]

Actually mine kicks the CEL on all the time. The thing is, 99% of people dont hook up the wires for the CEL when they swap.

My light works -- wiring specialities did the wiring harness so I think they run the wires for it -- I have the consult port option to pull codes on it -- my ecu does not have the led and screw to pull codes with it....

[IanS]

My light works -- wiring specialities did the wiring harness so I think they run the wires for it -- I have the consult port option to pull codes on it -- my ecu does not have the led and screw to pull codes with it....

Wiring specialties did my harness as well, though they did not hook up the CEL. I had to wire it myself.

As for the consult port, I have been meaning to wire mine up so I can run realtime digital sensor readouts.