What's Your Favorite Engine Oil?

[AZhitman]

Here's a great article on engine oil from guys who know their stuff:

Choosing an Engine Oil

What do you use in your rides? And why?

p.s. Extra credit for anyone who's actually used an oil analysis service!

[Bubba1]

Here's a great article on engine oil from guys who know their stuff:

Choosing an Engine Oil

What do you use in your rides? And why?

p.s. Extra credit for anyone who's actually used an oil analysis service!

For me it depends on the vehicle. For my Z, which sees extreme use, I use synthetic. My wife's TSX, which gets the most miles annually, I run a synthetic blend, mainly so I don't have to change the oil as often. My other cars don't see that much annual mileage, so I run old fashioned dino oil, just like the manufacturers recommended when new. Shockingly, I've never had oil related problems ever, and my 4 runner has almost a quarter million miles on it and counting. since I stopped changing my own oil years ago, I use whatever brand my mechanic supplies, which has been Pennzoil.

IMHO, testing differences aside, as long as you use an oil (and filter) that meets your car manufacturers requirements, changing the oil/filter regularly on schedule is FAR more impactful than what specific brand you use.

[Kompresshun]

I usually put Pennzoil Platinum in everything but I'll use Mobil 1 if the Pennzoil isn't in the shelf. I pretty much have always ran synthetic oil in everything I've owned since I started driving but if it's a beater I'll usually just run Dino oil. I never have had any oil related issues either, but I still try to always run a blend at minimum.

[MinisterofDOOM]

M1 5-20. Factory recommended, cheap, and good quality. Oil analyses from the car show that it's working just fine for my standard 5,000 mile OCI (really, probably overkill by a fair bit). I use the car's "oil change required" reminder as a guideline, but it's certainly not a panic light by any means.

The real question is: what filter do I use. And the reason that's the real question is that only WIX and STP filters can actually ever be found in stock for my car. Fortunately, both of those are good choices (and I believe the STP is actually a re-branded M1 filter). Lots of brands have part numbers for the AJ35, but I've never ever found anything but STP or WIX in stock or even available for order from some warehouse across the country.

The LS8 is the first car I've ever run synthetic in. I just ran cheapo dino 10-30 in the Maxima at pretty strict 3k mile intervals, and it made it to 280,000 miles before I sold it. It never consumed a drop, either.
I had regular oil analyses done on the QofDOOM and never felt the need to move to synthetic, especially at 3,000 mile intervals. The move to a fancy synth might have been worthwhile in exchange for a 10,000+ OCI, though. Messiest oil changes ever. Whoever decided to mount the filter ABOVE dozens of hydraulic and fluid lines should be hanged. It was impossible to drop a filter without making a mess.

[darylzero]

I run Pennzoil Ultra, is it overkill? Maybe, probably, but when you can get a 5qt jug at Walmat for $10 more then Pennzoil Yellow Bottle and you get all the synthetic goodness, why not.
Looks like I will be using their Pennzoil Platinum w/ Pure Plus from now on since the Ultra is now gone.

MoD, each oil filter manufactur usually has an oil filter selector you could use then put their part # on Amazon.
Like Bosch, http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePa ... um=72209WS

Same with Mobil 1
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... _Home.aspx

[szh]

I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 in my Infiniti M45.

For the moment, on my wife's Acura, we are using Honda Synthetic Blend 0W-20 or 5W-20 (what I think the Acura dealer uses) ... have not decided to switch to anything else yet.

Z

[BusyBadger]

[Jesda]

I used to be picky. Now I just go with whatever the shop has on hand.

[AZhitman]

I run the Rotella diesel oil in all my classics.

The turbo cars (MSM, MS3, and RB Z) get whatever full-syn is on sale.

The truck and the kids' cars all get regular store brand dino juice.

3K intervals are likely overkill, but oil changes are simple (and cheap).

[szh]

I used to be picky. Now I just go with whatever the shop has on hand.

If your OCI is short enough, then this is true.

Of course, I use Mobile Synthetic 0W-40, with a 3750 mile OCI anyway ... overkill? Yes.

Z

[BusyBadger]

I run the Rotella diesel oil in all my classics.

I use Rotella mainly in the warmer months because it doesn't thin out as much. Even with German Castrol I've seen my oil pressure drop when it's warm (hot) outside and I've been running the Z hard. Rotella still thins out a little more than I'd like, on the other hand I'm not quite ready to load up with 20w50 either.

[AZhitman]

I'm not terribly convinced that ambient temp has much effect on engine oil, or viscosity choice.

I'm also not that confident in a C______H needle gauge, either (especially after testing a few and noticing the broad variances of constitutes "H").

[MinisterofDOOM]

Many temp needles are merely 3-position switches. Cold, normal, and hot. About as precise as a Storm Trooper at a shooting range.

Fortunately, VQ-powered Nissans have a much more dynamic real-time oil temp meter. It's commonly known as "valvetraine noise" and conveniently fades as the engine reaches operating temps.

[AZhitman]

VQ-powered Nissans have a much more dynamic real-time oil temp meter. It's commonly known as "valvetraine noise" and conveniently fades as the engine reaches operating temps.

[flohtingPoint]

Redline is what we all use on the grid in the Vettes (LS1's/3/6/7).

[OriginalWheelman]

I mainly use Castrol but I will use anything but Quakerstate / Pennzoil. More than once I've had 2000 mile Quakerstate break down and just burn. It almost killed the engine in my Probe.

[BusyBadger]

I'm not terribly convinced that ambient temp has much effect on engine oil, or viscosity choice.

I've done some research on it and I've seen "evidence" to support both sides. Truth be told, it's most likely that I just drive the Z harder when it's warmer.

[AZhitman]

I look at it this way: The thermostat opens at 190* whether it's 30* outside or 130*.

The combustion chamber (and surrounding oil passages) are the same temperature, no matter what's going on outside the car.

[Bubba1]

I look at it this way: The thermostat opens at 190* whether it's 30* outside or 130*.

The combustion chamber (and surrounding oil passages) are the same temperature, no matter what's going on outside the car.

[lne937s]

The first number of the viscosity has more to do with cold temperature startups. May not be as much of a concern in AZ, but most engine wear happens at startup and a lower viscosity oil will circulate more quickly.

The second number should be matched to the performance requirements of your vehicle when it is up to temperature (a tight tolerance engine can use a thinner oil, whereas a turbo gets a lot hotter than 190*), which have less to do with external temperature, unless your car is overheating.

In general, a thinner oil will reduce pumping losses and allow for more horsepower and better fuel economy. Heavier conventional oils tend to be less volatile and have stronger film strength, but synthetic base oils tend to also have lower volatility and better film strength, allowing for a thinner grade to be used in a hotter engine.

[MinisterofDOOM]

I look at it this way: The thermostat opens at 190* whether it's 30* outside or 130*.

The combustion chamber (and surrounding oil passages) are the same temperature, no matter what's going on outside the car.

But when it's NEGATIVE 30 outside, it takes a whole lot longer to hit that 190* coolant temp. And where it might be a short trip, walking in those temperatures is pretty much the most unappealing thing in the entire universe. So you can either make a drive where the car never warms up all the way, or you can walk. I tend to choose the first option. An oil that's thinner at those temperatures helps minimize the wear from such driving habits.

[AZhitman]

Good point.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Believe you me, temp plays a big role.

We have some cold test chambers at work. You'd be surprised how thick s*** gets at -40 degrees. I run 10w40 in the prelude during the summer and 5w30 during the winter (mega ton of miles, consumes oil). The 10w40 seems to last quite a bit longer, thankfully.

[the converted]

I use Liqui Moly 10-60 in the M3 to keep the valvetrain noise at bay. The Jeep gets M1 5-20.

[gmac708]

I'm sticking with Redline for the RB.
Gord

[the converted]

And Greg, the oil sump acts as a pretty good oil cooler when it's cold out. When we are test driving oil cooled Porsches in colder weather they never get up to temp.

[AZhitman]

Got it.

So, the lesson here is that the proper viscosity is a hell of a lot more important than the brand name.

[szh]

Got it.

So, the lesson here is that the proper viscosity is a hell of a lot more important than the brand name.

Agreed!

If the oil is fresh and the OCI is reasonably short, almost any good oil of the right weight (for conditions) will do just fine.

Of course, to get the best understanding of how long a given oil lasts with a given car/engine, it is best to do an oil analysis.

Z

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Got it.

So, the lesson here is that the proper viscosity is a hell of a lot more important than the brand name.

Agreed!

If the oil is fresh and the OCI is reasonably short, almost any good oil of the right weight (for conditions) will do just fine.

Of course, to get the best understanding of how long a given oil lasts with a given car/engine, it is best to do an oil analysis.

Z

Billy Mays couldn't have said that any better.

[szh]

I forgot to mention this article: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/oil-choose.html ...

As it says in the article:

... my standard response when people ask me “What’s the best oil?” Clean oil.

The Blacktone report mentioned there (in the July 2014 issue of "The Oil Report") itself goes on with reasons for why this is true.

Z

EDIT: I just noticed that Greg had started this thread with that link!