What Oil filter???

Post by **burrpenick** » Tue Dec 21, 2021 6:13 pm

I've been using the FRAM XG synthetic w/satisfaction, but are they overkill? Is there something that is nearly as good that costs less?

Post by **VStar650CL** » Tue Dec 21, 2021 7:39 pm

I've always gone with the Nissan OE truck filter 15208-9E01A on our Altimas, it's nearly double the size of the stock 15208-65F0E and fits fine on all the QR platforms.

Post by **Lone Wolff** » Tue Dec 21, 2021 8:59 pm

Mobil 1 M1-108A. Got a case of 12 for around $6-7 per filter a few years ago. Not as cheap now, but I would use them vs the Fram if similar priced.

Post by **casperfun** » Tue Dec 21, 2021 9:32 pm

Well it's overkill if your changing the oil and THIS filter every 3k-5k miles.

Post by **macgiver** » Wed Dec 22, 2021 12:41 am

Yup that bigger 15208-9E01A Nissan one I used all under the warranty on my MR16DDT motor , that's solid one-up filter. And Mob-1 filters are up there too , which I failed to include in one of my previous posts . They boast excellent filtration / particulates . Now the Mob-1 OVERSIZE cross is a M-110 to that 15208-9E01A oversized Nissan .

nicemo · Post by **nicemo** » Sat Dec 25, 2021 2:48 am

I use Mann-Filter W67/1. It's better or the same as OEM, but cheaper

Post by **D1dad** » Mon Dec 27, 2021 6:21 pm

Just leave the ultra on for 2 oil changes. I use an ultra on my 09 Altima, change the oil every 4K and the filter every other time. The ultra is a 20k mile filter amd can do half that without breaking a sweat.

Post by **D1dad** » Tue Dec 28, 2021 10:49 am

While under warranty I’ll document a filter change every 4-5k using a Nissan filter. After that I’ll probably use an ultra and leave the filter on for two changes. My cars were new when bought and have never saw anything outside of synthetic so no worries about sludge here. I cut the last filter open on my wife’s 18 rogue at 45k and it was spotless. Not even a spec of carbon. Now my 21 altima scares me being direct injection as I’m already getting soot in the tailpipe.

Post by **PalmerWMD** » Tue Dec 28, 2021 12:19 pm

When I had high end filters like Mobil 1 extended or K&N oil filter In the past I left 'em on for 2 changes.
Many Nissan manuals seem to suggest this is a legit way of doing business.
They state the oil change quantity w/o filter change as well and many NIssan belly pans have a drain post for oil but no access to filter.

Recently buddy of mine when he borrowed y SUV gave an oil change to my Xterra with Mobil1 albeit a basic filter from the oil change place.. so filter is coming off for sure next change.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Thu Dec 30, 2021 6:50 pm

I like OEM filters and Napa Gold made by Wix.

Not a fan of over rated Mobil 1 oil. according to several tests Amsoil (inventor of synthetic oil) is superior and Pennzoil Platinum is a close second to Amsoil, see below.. I use Platinum off Amazon for $22 for a 5 qt jug

I use a magnet on the drain bolt and filter housing for cars with metal filters. It is amazing what is on the tip of the bolt and the inside wall of the filter after cutting it open.

https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:08 pm

Lone Wolff wrote: ↑
Tue Dec 21, 2021 8:59 pm
Mobil 1 M1-108A. Got a case of 12 for around $6-7 per filter a few years ago. Not as cheap now, but I would use them vs the Fram if similar priced.

I did that with my 2005 300C. Will do with the Rogue and likely the Maverick I have on order if it fits.

Honda uses a tiny lawnmower sized filter and the tight subframe won't allow a larger one. Hasn't hurt the longevity.

Most of my cars the last 10 years have the plastic cartridge filter at the op of the engine which doesn't allow a bigger size or a magnet.

Post by **casperfun** » Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:43 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 6:50 pm
I like OEM filters and Napa Gold made by Wix.

Not a fan of over rated Mobil 1 oil. according to several tests Amsoil (inventor of synthetic oil) is superior and Pennzoil Platinum is a close second to Amsoil, see below.. I use Platinum off Amazon for $22 for a 5 qt jug

I use a magnet on the drain bolt and filter housing for cars with metal filters. It is amazing what is on the tip of the bolt and the inside wall of the filter after cutting it open.

https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js

I knew you’re probably talking about project farm before hitting that link.

I have been using amsoil ss 5w-30 since 2010 but the first oil change was with Pennzoil Platinum Ultra in 2009.

Since I’m over 100k, I decided to no longer use Amsoil because I am now changing it at 5000k or less instead of 12k-15k as before. Even though I should have followed severe schedule, my Rogue still drives smooth as butter.

Also while reading the feedback on project farms, somebody mentioned a blog that was created by somebody who had a more scientific and oil analytic background who after his thorough research said that Quaker State Full Synthetic beats even Amsoil SS on engine wear.

So I bought Quaker State Synthetic at my local Walmart on sale for around $15 for a 5qt jug.

….And I bought 4 of them.

I’ll be changing at 4K this time while keeping the longer version Fram Ultra 7317 on for a couple of oci’s. With short oci’s, technically any modern day synthetic oil should be good to go.

Post by **PalmerWMD** » Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:55 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 6:50 pm
I like OEM filters and Napa Gold made by Wix.

Not a fan of over rated Mobil 1 oil. according to several tests Amsoil (inventor of synthetic oil) is superior and Pennzoil Platinum is a close second to Amsoil, see below.. I use Platinum off Amazon for $22 for a 5 qt jug

I use a magnet on the drain bolt and filter housing for cars with metal filters. It is amazing what is on the tip of the bolt and the inside wall of the filter after cutting it open.

https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js

I am not a big Mobil 1 partisan and I agree its reputation is perhaps exaggerated.

Have been running Valvoline hi Milage syn in 10w-30 in both my Nissan SUVs. Nice and stable oil and not too thin.
But the Mobil1 0w-40 has recently been reformulated and has more PAO content again and folks say its stability is surprisingly high for such large viscosity spread.. and my engine has hi miles and I want a thicker oil to lubricate my timing chains... Plus now its winter and the 0w- (oil is pumpable down to -60 celcius or some such ridicolously low temp) might come in handy too when I leave this state, so for now I will use the Mobil1 Ow-40.
I may do oil analyses to determine which oils give me lower wear among the two options.
I will for sure stick with a thicker 30 weight like a hi milage or a 40 weight I want my oils to meet ACEA A3
which gives me a guaranteed HTHS of 3.5 or better.
HTHS is the single greatest determinator on how well an oil protects but it is rare t have a 30 weight oil meet ACEA A3 ( though it possible its is very good lube stock and on the thicker side for a 30 weight).
No 0w-20 or 5w-20 oil will ever meet ACEA A3.
A good HTHS is however diametral opposed to fuel economy so fuel conserving oils or GILSAC F6 oils never have good HTHS (=hi tempt hi shear value, all our nissan have timing chains which need good HTHS)

Most manufacturers publish the HTHS number for a given oil on their websites.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Fri Dec 31, 2021 9:53 am

PalmerWMD wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:55 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 6:50 pm
I like OEM filters and Napa Gold made by Wix.

Not a fan of over rated Mobil 1 oil. according to several tests Amsoil (inventor of synthetic oil) is superior and Pennzoil Platinum is a close second to Amsoil, see below.. I use Platinum off Amazon for $22 for a 5 qt jug

I use a magnet on the drain bolt and filter housing for cars with metal filters. It is amazing what is on the tip of the bolt and the inside wall of the filter after cutting it open.

https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js
I am not a big Mobil 1 partisan and I agree its reputation is perhaps exaggerated.

Have been running Valvoline hi Milage syn in 10w-30 in both my Nissan SUVs. Nice and stable oil and not too thin.
But the Mobil1 0w-40 has recently been reformulated and has more PAO content again and folks say its stability is surprisingly high for such large viscosity spread.. and my engine has hi miles and I want a thicker oil to lubricate my timing chains... Plus now its winter and the 0w- (oil is pumpable down to -60 celcius or some such ridicolously low temp) might come in handy too when I leave this state, so for now I will use the Mobil1 Ow-40.
I may do oil analyses to determine which oils give me lower wear among the two options.
I will for sure stick with a thicker 30 weight like a hi milage or a 40 weight I want my oils to meet ACEA A3
which gives me a guaranteed HTHS of 3.5 or better.
HTHS is the single greatest determinator on how well an oil protects but it is rare t have a 30 weight oil meet ACEA A3 ( though it possible its is very good lube stock and on the thicker side for a 30 weight).
No 0w-20 or 5w-20 oil will ever meet ACEA A3.
A good HTHS is however diametral opposed to fuel economy so fuel conserving oils or GILSAC F6 oils never have good HTHS (=hi tempt hi shear value, all our nissan have timing chains which need good HTHS)

Most manufacturers publish the HTHS number for a given oil on their websites.

Mobil 1 has the best marketing.

I've never been a fan of water thin oils in the name of fractional MPG gains especially in turbo cars.

I still follow mfr recommendations under warranty. It really is academic for me because I won't put enough miles on any one car that the oil will matter. I have owned over 65 cars and the longest is my current 2013 Accord with 70K miles. My neighbor has a 2005 S2000 with 430K miles and used Amsoil and now uses Pennzoil platinum. On the S2000 forum, guys using Mobil 1 had timing chain bearing rattle and wear while Platinum and Amsoil guys did not. Anecdotal and NOT scientific but a lot of guys had the experience.

I have a Maverick 2.0T on order and will go with the thickest in the recommended range understanding I live in the snow belt so 5w whatever should be fine. My Genesis takes 5w30 and never has an issue with cold starts, same for my X5. My last oil change on the X5, I went with Euro 5w40 with 87,000 miles on the clock. I used 20W50 on my '65 Corvair when I was in college in 1980.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:14 am

casperfun wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 7:43 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Thu Dec 30, 2021 6:50 pm
I like OEM filters and Napa Gold made by Wix.

Not a fan of over rated Mobil 1 oil. according to several tests Amsoil (inventor of synthetic oil) is superior and Pennzoil Platinum is a close second to Amsoil, see below.. I use Platinum off Amazon for $22 for a 5 qt jug

I use a magnet on the drain bolt and filter housing for cars with metal filters. It is amazing what is on the tip of the bolt and the inside wall of the filter after cutting it open.

https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js
I knew you’re probably talking about project farm before hitting that link.

I have been using amsoil ss 5w-30 since 2010 but the first oil change was with Pennzoil Platinum Ultra in 2009.

Since I’m over 100k, I decided to no longer use Amsoil because I am now changing it at 5000k or less instead of 12k-15k as before. Even though I should have followed severe schedule, my Rogue still drives smooth as butter.

Also while reading the feedback on project farms, somebody mentioned a blog that was created by somebody who had a more scientific and oil analytic background who after his thorough research said that Quaker State Full Synthetic beats even Amsoil SS on engine wear.

So I bought Quaker State Synthetic at my local Walmart on sale for around $15 for a 5qt jug.

….And I bought 4 of them.

I’ll be changing at 4K this time while keeping the longer version Fram Ultra 7317 on for a couple of oci’s. With short oci’s, technically any modern day synthetic oil should be good to go.

Fran ultra is a good filter, regular orange Fram is junk. I use the XG Fram along with OEM and Wix on the Accord and MDX.

Hyundai recommends Quaker State as listed in my engine bay. MB recommends Mobil 1, and BMW recommends crappy Castrol. I suspect money is paid for these labeled endorsements. I don't believe it's based on science.

Today, I am putting my filter and drain bolt magnets on the Rogue at 142 miles. I am impressed with the crud these magnets are able to retain especially on the drain bolt which is filtered oil. Eventually, I'll locate my pics and post. I got the magnet idea from Cummins and magnets are proven on transfer case and some differential drain bolts.

I changed the transfer case oil on my 04 MDX and it has about an inch long magnet as part of the bolt that inserts into the oil and the stuff I wiped off was like a grey/black Vaseline. Magnets work. Whether it's clinically significant to add to engine longevity is debatable considering many 300-400K cars have never had a magnet on the drain bolt. Since I already have magnets, I always use them and no one can argue that keeping metal on the bolt is better than having it swim around in the oil, longevity notwithstanding.
Automatic transmissions use magnets for a proven reason.

Post by **macgiver** » Fri Dec 31, 2021 3:38 pm

Magnets are also , maybe more importantly , a VERY good indicator of trending motor wear , if you may keep a photo ( y'all got a smartfone ?? ) of each time you remove that magnetic drainplug - will tell ya Someth 'n , I look at my magnetic plug and keep image in my hermetically sealed brain kept on Funk and F 'n Wagnalls porch

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:13 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 31, 2021 3:38 pm
Magnets are also , maybe more importantly , a VERY good indicator of trending motor wear , if you may keep a photo ( y'all got a smartfone ?? ) of each time you remove that magnetic drainplug - will tell ya Someth 'n , I look at my magnetic plug and keep image in my hermetically sealed brain kept on Funk and F 'n Wagnalls porch

Nice, I like it. You learn something new every day.

For those who don't change the filter every time, I just can't with a 7-10K interval.
If I changed oil every 3-4K, then I could but what's the point of using synthetic oil and changing that frequently?

Oil filters are pretty cheap and the tiny Honda and similar Nissan filters seem like they could go into bypass mode early.
I don't like tiny oil filters. Someone mentioned using the Nissan truck filter which is longer. I plan to do that

Post by **nabril** » Sat Jan 29, 2022 7:55 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:14 am

Fran ultra is a good filter, regular orange Fram is junk. I use the XG Fram along with OEM and Wix on the Accord and MDX.

why is the regular orange Fram filter junk? I use regular castrol oil and the orange 6607 filter.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Sun Jan 30, 2022 6:08 am

nabril wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 29, 2022 7:55 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:14 am

Fran ultra is a good filter, regular orange Fram is junk. I use the XG Fram along with OEM and Wix on the Accord and MDX.
why is the regular orange Fram filter junk? I use regular castrol oil and the orange 6607 filter.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it is the worst filer made. This video along with numerous others going back 15-20 years ago when I had my 04 RX8 confirms what I am saying. I did my own filter study and cut them open and these guys aren’t making this up.
One might argue if it’s that bad, where are all of the ruined engines? A fair question but why knowingly use a poor quality product and take the chance? https://youtu.be/iTNJLEV8CG8

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Sun Jan 30, 2022 6:23 am

nabril wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 29, 2022 7:55 pm

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:14 am

Fran ultra is a good filter, regular orange Fram is junk. I use the XG Fram along with OEM and Wix on the Accord and MDX.
why is the regular orange Fram filter junk? I use regular castrol oil and the orange 6607 filter.

Although you didn’t ask, I’d be remiss if I didn’t bring this up. Castrol isn’t a very good oil based on objective testing. Oil is like religion, people believe what they want and rarely are they convinced to believe something else. I’m not trying to convert you from Castrol. Just pointing out facts. Castrol can’t be all bad, it is recommended by BMW as Mobil 1 (also not great) is recommended by MB. This is perhaps the greatest oil study video out there and well worth looking at. I just bought Pennzoil Platinum for my first Rogue oil change. https://youtu.be/TWuKvnCq1js

Post by **nabril** » Sun Jan 30, 2022 12:49 pm

Thank you @II Kings 920
The video about the fram filter is...well, spectacular and eye-opening. To make it interesting, there are many positive comments in that video professing many years of success with it. So, I'll check the prices of the other brand and even the Fram Ultra.

Now, to the oil.
Both rogues (wife's and mine 2015 and 16) have been receiving conventional oil since they were bought.
Does it make sense or is it truly better to perhaps switch to that Penzoil ultimate full synthetic oil? I don't want to delve again into the 378 million posts about "synthetic or not" after 7 and 6 years of driving ours. I made a choice back then to use conventional, so I'd like to know if switching to a synthetic one would be advantageous after 70k and 38k miles respectively driven. I don't mind paying more for synthetic, but I don't want to do it "just cause"

Post by **macgiver** » Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:11 pm

When you look into your oil ' filler ' opening do you see clean metal surfaces or is there any brown buildup and coatings of sludge in there ?

Post by **nabril** » Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:15 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:11 pm
When you look into your oil ' filler ' opening do you see clean metal surfaces or is there any brown buildup and coatings of sludge in there ?

Mac you're referring to the fill hole for the oil obviously, right? I will look. When? With the engine hot or cold?

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:43 am

nabril wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 12:49 pm
Thank you @II Kings 920
The video about the fram filter is...well, spectacular and eye-opening. To make it interesting, there are many positive comments in that video professing many years of success with it. So, I'll check the prices of the other brand and even the Fram Ultra.

Now, to the oil.
Both rogues (wife's and mine 2015 and 16) have been receiving conventional oil since they were bought.
Does it make sense or is it truly better to perhaps switch to that Penzoil ultimate full synthetic oil? I don't want to delve again into the 378 million posts about "synthetic or not" after 7 and 6 years of driving ours. I made a choice back then to use conventional, so I'd like to know if switching to a synthetic one would be advantageous after 70k and 38k miles respectively driven. I don't mind paying more for synthetic, but I don't want to do it "just cause"

I bought the ultra for my first oil change but next time I’m getting WIX. I’m also using the truck sized filter because it’s a little bigger and I hate tiny filters. Honda has been using lawnmower size filters for decades and many of their vehicles go 200 to 300,000 miles without problems so that is a theoretical concern of mine. The pic shows the difference in box size and even the bigger filter isn’t huge.

Regarding oil religion, I know many people who have used conventional oil as I did 25 years ago without any problems with the engine. Let’s face it, for most of us, we’re not putting 200,000 or 300,000 miles on a single vehicle and that’s where the difference could come in to play. Considering the difference in cost of about eight dollars for a 5 quart jug, it’s worth it for me and if you use one of the other synthetic oils like Amazon or Costco or super tech which is all made by the same company, the price can be the same as conventional oil . I’ll find a picture I posted on Facebook showing synthetic oil is cheaper than synthetic blend which I would never use. I was convinced to use in thetic oil about 25 years ago when I went to a Valvoline quick lube place and it was about 15 below. They had sitting outside a quart of conventional oil and a quart of synthetic and had customers do a simple pour test to show the difference. The difference is rather staggering if you live in cold country. Based on how cold it gets where I am, I will never use conventional oil. That alone is a deciding factor and of course on the flipside there’s superior heat resistance and thermal breakdown performance. These have been proven by oil analysis. Again for most of us under warranty and even out of warranty for the first hundred thousand miles or more it probably matters not. There is a reason some cars have engine block heater‘s as an option because sitting outside in Minnesota at 30 below with conventional oil, your car isn’t going to start. Synthetic oil allows easy starting in extreme cold.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 7:15 am

II Kings 9:20 wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 31, 2022 5:43 am

nabril wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 12:49 pm
Thank you @II Kings 920
The video about the fram filter is...well, spectacular and eye-opening. To make it interesting, there are many positive comments in that video professing many years of success with it. So, I'll check the prices of the other brand and even the Fram Ultra.

Now, to the oil.
Both rogues (wife's and mine 2015 and 16) have been receiving conventional oil since they were bought.
Does it make sense or is it truly better to perhaps switch to that Penzoil ultimate full synthetic oil? I don't want to delve again into the 378 million posts about "synthetic or not" after 7 and 6 years of driving ours. I made a choice back then to use conventional, so I'd like to know if switching to a synthetic one would be advantageous after 70k and 38k miles respectively driven. I don't mind paying more for synthetic, but I don't want to do it "just cause"
I bought the ultra for my first oil change but next time I’m getting WIX. I’m also using the truck sized filter because it’s a little bigger and I hate tiny filters. Honda has been using lawnmower size filters for decades and many of their vehicles go 200 to 300,000 miles without problems so that is a theoretical concern of mine. The pic shows the difference in box size and even the bigger filter isn’t huge.

Regarding oil religion, I know many people who have used conventional oil as I did 25 years ago without any problems with the engine. Let’s face it, for most of us, we’re not putting 200,000 or 300,000 miles on a single vehicle and that’s where the difference could come in to play. Considering the difference in cost of about eight dollars for a 5 quart jug, it’s worth it for me and if you use one of the other synthetic oils like Amazon or Costco or super tech which is all made by the same company, the price can be the same as conventional oil . I’ll find a picture I posted on Facebook showing synthetic oil is cheaper than synthetic blend which I would never use. I was convinced to use in thetic oil about 25 years ago when I went to a Valvoline quick lube place and it was about 15 below. They had sitting outside a quart of conventional oil and a quart of synthetic and had customers do a simple pour test to show the difference. The difference is rather staggering if you live in cold country. Based on how cold it gets where I am, I will never use conventional oil. That alone is a deciding factor and of course on the flipside there’s superior heat resistance and thermal breakdown performance. These have been proven by oil analysis. Again for most of us under warranty and even out of warranty for the first hundred thousand miles or more it probably matters not. There is a reason some cars have engine block heater‘s as an option because sitting outside in Minnesota at 30 below with conventional oil, your car isn’t going to start. Synthetic oil allows easy starting in extreme cold.

Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic is cheaper than Motorcraft blend. For me, using synthetic blend is a kin to adding water to the cream in my coffee. There’s never a good reason to use it, not even price.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 7:16 am

nabril wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 12:49 pm
Thank you @II Kings 920
The video about the fram filter is...well, spectacular and eye-opening. To make it interesting, there are many positive comments in that video professing many years of success with it. So, I'll check the prices of the other brand and even the Fram Ultra.

Now, to the oil.
Both rogues (wife's and mine 2015 and 16) have been receiving conventional oil since they were bought.
Does it make sense or is it truly better to perhaps switch to that Penzoil ultimate full synthetic oil? I don't want to delve again into the 378 million posts about "synthetic or not" after 7 and 6 years of driving ours. I made a choice back then to use conventional, so I'd like to know if switching to a synthetic one would be advantageous after 70k and 38k miles respectively driven. I don't mind paying more for synthetic, but I don't want to do it "just cause"

Post by **macgiver** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:03 pm

nabril I was curious if you have ANY buildup of crud from using conventional oils is what I was interested in learning , thank you if you may give an observation on it.

Post by **casperfun** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:51 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:11 pm
When you look into your oil ' filler ' opening do you see clean metal surfaces or is there any brown buildup and coatings of sludge in there ?

Well this is my 2009 with 12k-15k oci’s on a severe schedule of short trips/idling with 95% city driving for around 100k miles with Amsoil 5w-30 SS.

I’m doing a 4K oil change next after my last 2 were at 5k.

The 4K oil change will be the first time with Quaker State full synthetic.

Rogue runs smooth as butter.

After my LONG oci’s on severe schedule, we’ll at least to some.

Oil cap.

Post by **II Kings 9:20** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 6:03 pm

casperfun wrote: ↑
Mon Jan 31, 2022 2:51 pm

macgiver wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 30, 2022 1:11 pm
When you look into your oil ' filler ' opening do you see clean metal surfaces or is there any brown buildup and coatings of sludge in there ?
Well this is my 2009 with 12k-15k oci’s on a severe schedule of short trips/idling with 95% city driving for around 100k miles with Amsoil 5w-30 SS.

I’m doing a 4K oil change next after my last 2 were at 5k.

The 4K oil change will be the first time with Quaker State full synthetic.

Rogue runs smooth as butter.

Amsoil is tops. The first synthetic oil in 1972 for those who don’t know. What made you switch from Amsoil to Quaker State?

Why Quaker over other brands?

My 2015 Genesis recommends Quaker State. I wonder if Mobil pays Mercedes, Castrol pays BMW, and Quaker state pays Hyundai to be their respective recommended oils.

Post by **casperfun** » Mon Jan 31, 2022 6:22 pm

Long story short, I use to buy amsoil at my local hardware store until I couldn't. Then bought amsoil online from people (non distributors). I prefer not to buy an amsoil membership just cuz.

Anyways, Since u can't easily find amsoil at stores and now that I have over 100k miles, I'm just buying the cheap stuff at walmart.

Moreover, since I'm changing every 4k miles now and no longer doing 15k oci's, it's fine now.

Why am I using Quaker State? Because after watching project farm, I read the comments, and somebody mentioned a blog where a real oil expert who actually studies motor oil and with a background in oil at the molecular level, not just a youtuber testing oil but a real scientist type of person found out through his research that Quaker State full synthetic BEATS Amsoil 5w30 in wear tests.

Easier to find, and cheaper to buy. A double-win!

Anyways, any oil, conventional, blend, full synthetic will be fine on 4k oci's.

The end.

What Oil filter???

What Oil filter???

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