What is going to be the best cams for my NA KA24DE

[Luckyluck]

I am swapping a 96 kade into my 89 hatch. Not planning on building the thing yet, just want a set of cams and maybe a aftermarket IM. everything else is gonna be stock. I will have every bolt on imaginable as the pay checks roll in. If you could just tell me your experience with different set ups and what not would be great.

[compactfean]

Aftermarket intake manifold usually equals peak power in the higher rpm range (excessive manufacturing makes a im that produces power throughout almost the entire rev range) same thing with cams. Where do you, want your power to be?

[Luckyluck]

Well of course I would love my power to be awesome through all ranges. But I really want my power to be low end. Fast off the line and what not. Do u mind explaining real quick the benefits to low end vs high end?

[compactfean]

Usually cars that are built for low end hp will have less peak hp. A motor built for peak hp revs higher but lags until reaching the rpms where the engine starts to be efficient. Example, 280 cams have great power from like 5k -10 or 11k rpms. if your motor can't even reach those rpms than that cam would be way to big for that build.

[IanS]

Usually cars that are built for low end hp will have less peak hp. A motor built for peak hp revs higher but lags until reaching the rpms where the engine starts to be efficient. Example, 280 cams have great power from like 5k -10 or 11k rpms. if your motor can't even reach those rpms than that cam would be way to big for that build.

Opening duration isn't everything.

Factory cams are set up strictly for emmisions purposes. Its all about profile, and when the cam is opening, I have seen 314 duration cams designed to make power between 3700 and 8000 rpm. Its all about timing and profile. a factory cam won't close early enough, so a lot of compression is lost. Good for emissions, not for power. Ramp your lift up faster, close sooner, and make good power, or push compression through the roof to support lots of overlap.

Just don't ask it to idle.

To the OP, get a set of 248 S13 intake cams, and stack them, or run a 248 on the exhaust side, and your 232 stock intake cam. Thats the setup I am using now (with 12:1 compression mind you) and I like the power band. It doesn't pull much above 6k, but that keeps me off the rev limit, and I can short shift without issues.

[compactfean]

Duration may not be everything but every company that makes cams that I've seen for the majority of most import motors usually perform better in the high rpms. Sure, cam timing can be adjusted to persuade the power band one direction or the other but at the end of the day drag imports use a much larger duration cam than lets say, a, street car with a rev limit of 7k.

[asoomal]

JWT C78's.

Retarded amount of lift, you'll need VQ35 lifters though.

[N/A Q45]

Usually cars that are built for low end hp will have less peak hp. A motor built for peak hp revs higher but lags until reaching the rpms where the engine starts to be efficient. Example, 280 cams have great power from like 5k -10 or 11k rpms. if your motor can't even reach those rpms than that cam would be way to big for that build.

Opening duration isn't everything.

Factory cams are set up strictly for emmisions purposes. Its all about profile, and when the cam is opening, I have seen 314 duration cams designed to make power between 3700 and 8000 rpm. Its all about timing and profile. a factory cam won't close early enough, so a lot of compression is lost. Good for emissions, not for power. Ramp your lift up faster, close sooner, and make good power, or push compression through the roof to support lots of overlap.

Just don't ask it to idle.

To the OP, get a set of 248 S13 intake cams, and stack them, or run a 248 on the exhaust side, and your 232 stock intake cam. Thats the setup I am using now (with 12:1 compression mind you) and I like the power band. It doesn't pull much above 6k, but that keeps me off the rev limit, and I can short shift without issues.

The 248/248 can pull past 6 no problem. Maybe not in your application because of how you have the cams timing set. You can set them for low/mid/topend power. It all comes down to cam timing more then just installing some cams. I like the 248/248 when they're set right and everything else is set for where you want your power, they seem to put down some serious power. My car has the response of a street bike and topend out the a** while still on a stock IM.

[asoomal]

Go away, no one wants you in the Q45 forums and no one wants you here.

[N/A Q45]

Go away, no one wants you in the Q45 forums and no one wants you here.

That's because there's some people as different as you over there aswell.

The KA2.4DE doesnt have lifters! / Shim on bucket holy.. talk out your a** much.

[asoomal]

That d!ck...is a lifter, cam follower, bucket, same thing.

[IanS]

The 248/248 can pull past 6 no problem. Maybe not in your application because of how you have the cams timing set. You can set them for low/mid/topend power. It all comes down to cam timing more then just installing some cams. I like the 248/248 when they're set right and everything else is set for where you want your power, they seem to put down some serious power. My car has the response of a street bike and topend out the a** while still on a stock IM.

You need reading lessons. I, am not running 248/248, I have 248/232 because I didn't like how peaky the engine was with dual 248s. I wanted more mid range. Peak power is pointless if you have no useable power/torque.

[N/A Q45]

That d***...is a lifter, cam follower, bucket, same thing.

Do you even know what the word -lifter- means they're not the same thing.

No wonder people get so confused when reading like yours online.

IT IS NOT A LIFTER! lol-

Why not call them what they are. A shim and bucket design- they don't lift anything. Where as a lifter lifts the rocker arm and helps keep the valve lash to minimum, can get solid and hydraulic lifters that work in that way.

[N/A Q45]

The 248/248 can pull past 6 no problem. Maybe not in your application because of how you have the cams timing set. You can set them for low/mid/topend power. It all comes down to cam timing more then just installing some cams. I like the 248/248 when they're set right and everything else is set for where you want your power, they seem to put down some serious power. My car has the response of a street bike and topend out the a** while still on a stock IM.

You need reading lessons. I, am not running 248/248, I have 248/232 because I didn't like how peaky the engine was with dual 248s. I wanted more mid range. Peak power is pointless if you have no useable power/torque.

No I don't, you missed my point. I can set my 248/248 up for top/mid/lowend it comes down to cam timing. When I do drift I'd set them up for low-mid and drags set them for topend. You really need to have some serious head work, exhaust and Intake done to get the most out of them. My IM is stock but that's about it until I build one.

[asoomal]

That d***...is a lifter, cam follower, bucket, same thing.

Do you even know what the word -lifter- means they're not the same thing.

No wonder people get so confused when reading like yours online.

IT IS NOT A LIFTER! lol-

Why not call them what they are. A shim and bucket design- they don't lift anything. Where as a lifter lifts the rocker arm and helps keep the valve lash to minimum, can get solid and hydraulic lifters that work in that way.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/13231-lift ... 64174.html

f*** you're an idiot...why are you even on this forum? Seriously, I swear you have some sort of mental disease, please go see a doctor.

[compactfean]

Lmao serious head work for 248's? That's barely an upgrade!!! And you have certain settings for your cams for different driving styles? Hahaha!!! I've seen tuners on the dyno fight a engine for even ONE good setting with a pair of cams. Stop kidding yourself.

[N/A Q45]

Lmao serious head work for 248's? That's barely an upgrade!!! And you have certain settings for your cams for different driving styles? Hahaha!!! I've seen tuners on the dyno fight a engine for even ONE good setting with a pair of cams. Stop kidding yourself.

If you could learn about LSAs then you would understand how to set up cams for where you want your power. Go search-

[N/A Q45]

Oh yeah and when you can build a N/A ka that responds like mine then I'll listen to what you have to say compactfean

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss4UHjl ... ata_player

And this is with a blown rod bearing before I started my aluminum frame build. Engines not done but anyone who knows KAs should be able to notice a huge difference.

[N/A Q45]

tap·pet  
(tpt)n.A lever or projecting arm that moves or is moved by contact with another part, usually to transmit motion, as between a driving mechanism and a valve.

Now that I hope you understand that
.
valve lifter
noun Automotive, Machinery1. 
(in an internal-combustion engine) a tappet that opens a valve when actuated by a camshaft.

Asoomal you can't always believe what you read-

[N/A Q45]

Was going to leave this part alone too but you seem rather slow Asoomal so hey why don't you learn what a cam follower is/does!


http://www3.ul.ie/~kirwanp/whatisacaman ... rsyste.htm


Like I said the ka/de has a shim and bucket design. Just because 100 people call it something different doesn't mean it is true.

The funniest thing is I think you're serious about believing that a lifter, bucket and cam follower are the same thing

[compactfean]

Oh yeah and when you can build a N/A ka that responds like mine then I'll listen to what you have to say compactfean

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss4UHjl ... ata_player

And this is with a blown rod bearing before I started my aluminum frame build. Engines not done but anyone who knows KAs should be able to notice a huge difference.

Stopped playing with slow n/a motors long ago so have fun with that.

[N/A Q45]

Everyone knows it takes alot more time and skills to make seirous power from a N/A engine soo I'm glad you didn't overwhelm yourself.

[asoomal]

High HP N/A KA won't be reliable as a turbo and cheap as well.

BTW, do you realize that almost EVERYONE calls them lifters? Hell even Nissan and all the aftermarket companies call them lifters. That definition you is probably from a dictionary during the 60's when most vehicles had push rods.

I bet you pop vessels in your brains when some calls an engine mount a motor mount.

Here's another one:

"appet [ˈtæpɪt]
n
(Engineering / Mechanical Engineering) a mechanical part that reciprocates to receive or transmit intermittent motion, esp the part of an internal-combustion engine that transmits motion from the camshaft to the push rods or valves

[from tap1 + -et]"

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Valve+lifter

In our case, the lifter transmits motion from the cams to the valves.

[asoomal]

Was going to leave this part alone too but you seem rather slow N/A Q45 so hey check this out too!

http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_te ... basics.htm

"As each cam lobe rotates, it contacts the cam follower (aka "lifter", aka "tappet") and drives the follower away from the camshaft rotational axis."

[compactfean]

Amen asoomal!!! My 400 hp dd is definately reliable. I don't take video of my car with the rods knocking all the time. how about learn how to build a engine that doesnt do that. Burn!!!

[N/A Q45]

High HP N/A KA won't be reliable as a turbo and cheap as well.

BTW, do you realize that almost EVERYONE calls them lifters? Hell even Nissan and all the aftermarket companies call them lifters. That definition you is probably from a dictionary during the 60's when most vehicles had push rods.

I bet you pop vessels in your brains when some calls an engine mount a motor mount.

Here's another one:

"appet [ˈtæpɪt]
n
(Engineering / Mechanical Engineering) a mechanical part that reciprocates to receive or transmit intermittent motion, esp the part of an internal-combustion engine that transmits motion from the camshaft to the push rods or valves

[from tap1 + -et]"

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Valve+lifter

In our case, the lifter transmits motion from the cams to the valves.

you just continue to call it whatever you want, good for a laugh that's for sure!
You can't even spell small words so I doubt you can read B-I-G ones

[N/A Q45]

Amen asoomal!!! My 400 hp dd is definately reliable. I don't take video of my car with the rods knocking all the time. how about learn how to build a engine that doesnt do that. Burn!!!

Yeah because turbos can't blow rod bearings. . And the only reason the bearings went were because who ever I bought the block off didn't know what they were doing when they re-built it clearly.

[asoomal]

Who knows...the car in the video you posted probably doesn't have a flywheel bolted up.

You definitely have issues man, and definitely suck at trolling.

I'm guessing that your N/A 240 does 13s right?

[N/A Q45]

Who knows...the car in the video you posted probably doesn't have a flywheel bolted up.

You definitely have issues man, and definitely suck at trolling.

I'm guessing that your N/A 240 does 13s right?

Lol it has a ACT prolight fly wheel 9.5lbs and Exedy stage 2 four puck clutch + a few other things that would just confuse you, you know.

It actually makes my day almost that in your slow mind you resort to saying it "probably doesn't have a flywheel bolted up" because I can bet you have never seen a properly built N/A ka. Even civics with short strokes don't even rev like mine did.

And I have nooo idea what it runs, as of right now it doesn't run anywhere untill I finish my aluminum main frame, aluminum floors and roll cage. Could go into more detail but well you would get confused. . You know
I know I can lift the back of it off the ground try that with yours-

[asoomal]

Define "properly built N/A ka".

Well no s*** I can't lift the back of of my vehicle, it's a car that's driven on the street made out of steel with crumple zones, why would I want an aluminum frame for a car that's going to be daily driven?

And it's bolted not belted, get that slow condescending mind of yours back in the 4th grade and learn how to spell a 6 letter word.