what do i need to do to use a SR flywheel?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
capwred
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yes sir.i was just joking about searching.i dont mine helping were i can.let me know how it turns out.


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yourmomsrps13
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i talked to knightrider and he said to use a ca20 S12 hoodless starter and oval out the starter bolt hole tiny bit to get full engaugement of the starter to the ring gear. also with the jwt sr20 lightened flywheel has a option for 250mm 300zx and 350z pressure plate and disc, when using the 250 you must grind some on the bellhousing.

dash
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ouch!so this is the second Spec clutch I've 'read bout' exploding on a starion. Ironic that you should mention starion, as it was another starion guy that I'm referring to, who had Spec ammend their stageIII design based on his feedback (after his 1st exploded also). He wound up with a good street clutch that worked well in a fast torquey heavy car that saw occasional dragstrip/slicks. Didn't even slip on a 30psi runaway boost spike = good clutch.

I doubt Spec (or most clutch manufacturers) actually test all these applications, so we get to be the guinnea pigs for the early units I guess.

Seem like too many moded ca18s around with no clutch problems - that info should be far easier (and cheaper) to find than an sr20 flywheel conversion.

I'd be pi55ed too if my gbox exploded. I'm surprised you even 'gambled' with another Spec in your 'rare' ca bellhousing after that experience.

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Bwana
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dat_twinkie wrote:sorry to steal the thread but has anyone tried illegal garages clutch..i know a lot of the ae86 guys uses them.. i heard great reviews how they beat the living sh*t out of them and it still feels the same way the first day they got them...
I got my clutch from Max and it's worked great for me running 250hp in the MG. I always contacted him via email and had no problems. Pretty sure this is his email if you want to get ahold of him. [email protected]

kapower06
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I still dont know why you want to go through the hassel of changing everything out and spending big bucks on a flywheel/clutch combo along with the starter (if you can get one)....When ever you can just take out all of the dowel pins and use an ka clutch, But its your money.

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float_6969
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OK, 1st of all, I am running a Stage III 6-puck SPEC clutch and I don't have any slipping with it whatsoever. I've beat on it way harder than you have and with much more power, I promise.

Did you read the instructions at all? Did you follow the break in procedure? Did you re-adjust the clutch pedal? Did you have the flywheel surface stepped?

Mine did USED to slip on me. I always blamed the clutch. I replaced my clutch master in an attemt to fix it and it didn't work. Then I re-adjusted the clutch pedal. That fixed everything. The engagement point is still in a weird spot (not close to the floor like normal) but stepping the flywheel would resolve this. I haven't actually tried it or talked to spec about the stepping, but I plan on trying it later.

Don't blame the clutch/company for a bad product if it wasn't installed correctly.

Please don't take that the wrong way, but I personally badmouthed their clutch for a while, not realizing that the problem was installation error.

BBUUUUUTTTT to answer your question, the SR flywheel can SUPPOSEDLY be used, but the one guy (that I'm aware of) that has tried it, has had some issues. Knightrider, who works at JWT, is the guy who tried it. He used an SR Fidanza flywheel, a Z32/Maxima clutch, He had to grind down the inside of the bell housing in a few places, and lastly use a Hitachi, gear reduction starter from a CA18E(T). The key to making this work is the starter. It HAS to be the gear reduction starter, the one w/o a nose cone for the engagement gear. If you don't use that specific starter, the nose of the starter wlll rub on the pressure plate. Also, the biggest problem is that there is 1 or 2 teeth less on one of the flywheels. The longterm effect of this isn't know for sure.

You are more than welcome to use the above info to try the SR flywheel, but you are still basically a guinea pig. If you're going to be one, why not do it so that we have an application specific clutch instead?

And just to re-iderate:I am currently, and have been daily for about a year been using a JUN flywheel and a SPEC Stage III clutch w/o a problem. Drivin daily, and after I got it adjusted properly, it hasen't ever even THOUGHT of slipping.

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float_6969
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Kouks, the second thread wasn't nessicary, I combined it into your original thread.

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yourmomsrps13
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float: I adjusted the pedal, removed the damper box, SS braided line and installed the clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing the flywheel looked great so i did NOT have it resurfaced or stepped, this is the reason im having problems? I didnt see anywhere about stepping it.

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float_6969
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It sounds like you did everything correctly. It doesn't state anywhere to have it stepped, but you should ALWAYS have the flywheel resurfaced. The reason I say that it may need stepped is that I believe that would eliminate the engagement point being up near the top of the pedals range of movement as opposed to being near the floor like normal. I haven't done it and I can't attest to this working. It would be purely experiemental.


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