What did you do to your Pathfinder / QX4 today?

[Chuck Tribolet]

Had a new windshield installed this morning.
About a month ago it got hit by a rock that flew up from a dump truck while I was on the freeway.
Started as a chip, and quickly spread into three directions like a spiders' legs.
The longest crack was about 18" long, and growing.
Had to pay for it myself 'cause my deductible is higher than the cost of the new windshield.
It's nice and clear though, compared to the old one, so that's good.

There is often a deductable waiver for glass.

Chuck

[zach7685]

Glass is free in SC... Beautiful places smiling faces. lol

[00pathyse]

Installed KYB gas a just shocks in the rear. Loving the firmer and smoother ride. It raised the rear end a little too which looks and feels great. Didn't realize how bad the ride had got. The old shocks didn't decompress at all when I removed them.

[Towncivilian]

That's just how my old factory shocks were. They were basically useless.

[zach7685]

Question How can the ride be smoother and firmer at the same time?

[ltsnotme]

Changed brake rotors, pads, repacked front bearings, put in longer wheel studs and 5/16" spacers (tires were rubbing).

[yngw13]

Changed brake rotors, pads, repacked front bearings, put in longer wheel studs and 5/16" spacers (tires were rubbing).

was it easy to repack the bearings?
I need to do this soon...what were the tools you used or required????


thanks

[skiski329]

^^^ same here on the repacked front bearings. I wish you took pic's, it would have been a useful diy.

[ltsnotme]

was it easy to repack the bearings?
I need to do this soon...what were the tools you used or required????

thanks

It's not really difficult. You remove and suspend the caliper, take the caliper bracket off, remove the rotor, pull the inner seal out, take the bearings out, clean and repack, then put everything back together.
There's a DIY here: how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-fo ... 45492.html that shows how to get the rotors off. Once the rotor is off (around Step 7 in that DIY), you need to pull the inner seal out of the back of it to get to the inner bearing. I would recommend getting a seal puller, since it's not easy to get it out with a screw driver. I used the curved end of a hammer to pull it out, and it worked somewhat well. You'll need new inner seals, since they'll probably get damaged, although mine came out fine.
Also, the caliper bracket bolts might be a pain to undo. On the passenger side, I used my jack to push the breaker bar. That wouldn't work on the driver side since you have to pull the bar down, but it eventually gave in. I had to replace one of those bolts because it was pretty corroded, so it's probably a good idea to have a spare on hand. On my '96, they are M12x1.25 bolts, 40mm long with a 19mm head.

^^^ same here on the repacked front bearings. I wish you took pic's, it would have been a useful diy.

Yeah, I was planning on taking pictures, but my hands were so greasy most of the time, I couldn't grab the camera. Sorry.

[yngw13]

was it easy to repack the bearings?
I need to do this soon...what were the tools you used or required????

thanks

It's not really difficult. You remove and suspend the caliper, take the caliper bracket off, remove the rotor, pull the inner seal out, take the bearings out, clean and repack, then put everything back together.
There's a DIY here: how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-fo ... 45492.html that shows how to get the rotors off. Once the rotor is off (around Step 7 in that DIY), you need to pull the inner seal out of the back of it to get to the inner bearing. I would recommend getting a seal puller, since it's not easy to get it out with a screw driver. I used the curved end of a hammer to pull it out, and it worked somewhat well. You'll need new inner seals, since they'll probably get damaged, although mine came out fine.
Also, the caliper bracket bolts might be a pain to undo. On the passenger side, I used my jack to push the breaker bar. That wouldn't work on the driver side since you have to pull the bar down, but it eventually gave in. I had to replace one of those bolts because it was pretty corroded, so it's probably a good idea to have a spare on hand. On my '96, they are M12x1.25 bolts, 40mm long with a 19mm head.

Thanks for the information!!! Very much appreciated
Im pretty sure Ive seen that thread and just wanted to go back and forth with someone who done it already....just wondering IF I NEEDED CERTAIN SPECIALTY TOOLS LIKE THE RING REMOVER OR A Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Wrench.....LOCK RING PLIERS.....IMPACT DRIVER....

[01silvapathy]

Lol, I replaced my brakes after 4 years....about two of those with 33's and one with 35's



Also made a mount in the console for my handgun

[ltsnotme]

Thanks for the information!!! Very much appreciated
Im pretty sure Ive seen that thread and just wanted to go back and forth with someone who done it already....just wondering IF I NEEDED CERTAIN SPECIALTY TOOLS LIKE THE RING REMOVER OR A Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Wrench.....LOCK RING PLIERS.....IMPACT DRIVER....

Oh, yeah, lock ring pliers (which is what I used) make removing the lock ring much easier; I'd recommend getting those as well. And if you want to actually torque the lock nut to specs, you'll need the lock nut socket, although I just used long-nose pliers. I don't think you really need an impact wrench either. I used one to get the wheels on and off, but just 'cause it's faster.

[Towncivilian]

Yeah, I used some lock ring pliers for the retaining ring too. I just torqued it until there was no play and called it good, no problems yet. Next pad/rotor/bearing job I'll probably buy the correct tool online to make things easier.

I used a breaker bar / broken 1/2" torque wrench (don't ask) to remove the bigger stubborn bolts. PB Blaster would likely be helpful if you're in a state that salts roads. Be sure to follow torque specs in the FSM, you don't wanna fool around with brakes.

I regreased both inner and outer wheel bearings using Amsoil Multi-Purpose Synthetic grease I purchased at my local NAPA. You will need to replace the inner grease seals if you want to regrease the inner bearings. I'd suggest doing so, it only adds about 20 minutes per side to the service. You might need a seal puller to pull the inner grease seal from the hub.

If your brake fluid hasn't been flushed within the past two years, I'd suggest doing that as well. Make sure you follow the correct bleeding order which is found in the general information thread.

[ltsnotme]

My manual recommends using a high-temp wheel bearing grease. I used Mag1 High-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease from AutoZone.

Thanks for the information!!! Very much appreciated
Im pretty sure Ive seen that thread and just wanted to go back and forth with someone who done it already....just wondering IF I NEEDED CERTAIN SPECIALTY TOOLS LIKE THE RING REMOVER OR A Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Wrench.....LOCK RING PLIERS.....IMPACT DRIVER....

Also, I don't know if you've ever repacked any kind of bearings, so I just wanted to mention that you don't just rub grease on top of the bearings, you have to actually push it into the bearing from all sides, and keep pushing until it starts coming back out.

Lol, I replaced my brakes after 4 years....about two of those with 33's and one with 35's

My 16-year-old rotors had 1mm lips on them.

[yngw13]

Thanks for the information!!! Very much appreciated
Im pretty sure Ive seen that thread and just wanted to go back and forth with someone who done it already....just wondering IF I NEEDED CERTAIN SPECIALTY TOOLS LIKE THE RING REMOVER OR A Wheel Bearing Lock Nut Wrench.....LOCK RING PLIERS.....IMPACT DRIVER....

Oh, yeah, lock ring pliers (which is what I used) make removing the lock ring much easier; I'd recommend getting those as well. And if you want to actually torque the lock nut to specs, you'll need the lock nut socket, although I just used long-nose pliers. I don't think you really need an impact wrench either. I used one to get the wheels on and off, but just 'cause it's faster.

thanks....so looks like Ill need the LOCK RING PLIERS and a TORQUE WRENCH and a SEAL PULLER if I can find one...the impact driver I was referring to was for the philips screw that could be frozen stuck...???....I wanna avoid rounding it off...THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

and YEA I know that you have to make sure the grease makes it in the bearings...YOUTUBE showed me how...messy no doubt

[yngw13]

Yeah, I used some lock ring pliers for the retaining ring too. I just torqued it until there was no play and called it good, no problems yet. Next pad/rotor/bearing job I'll probably buy the correct tool online to make things easier.

I used a breaker bar / broken 1/2" torque wrench (don't ask) to remove the bigger stubborn bolts. PB Blaster would likely be helpful if you're in a state that salts roads. Be sure to follow torque specs in the FSM, you don't wanna fool around with brakes.

I regreased both inner and outer wheel bearings using Amsoil Multi-Purpose Synthetic grease I purchased at my local NAPA. You will need to replace the inner grease seals if you want to regrease the inner bearings. I'd suggest doing so, it only adds about 20 minutes per side to the service. You might need a seal puller to pull the inner grease seal from the hub.

If your brake fluid hasn't been flushed within the past two years, I'd suggest doing that as well. Make sure you follow the correct bleeding order which is found in the general information thread.

might try Harbor freight for cheap torque wrenches...
hopefully I can find a seal puller......HF HAS THEM!!!!
I guess Ill buy all the tools there...
also the 13mm? for the rear diff plugs...gotta do it now that I got a better floor jack
will make another thread/or search re: front differential draining/fill

THANKS!!!!!

[Towncivilian]

The screws holding in the lock washer won't be stuck.

Yes, HF has the torque wrenches, seal pullers, and the drain plug socket set which includes the 13mm drain plug. Be sure to use coupons found online (20% off a single item, $13 or $10 torque wrench coupons).

[yngw13]

thanks TOWN...
screws on hubs wheel assemblies are frozen...so I wondered about that...
Im physically going to an HF store...Ill try to print out coupons if I can find them....
will post Pathy misc pics soon...just havent made time...

[Towncivilian]

Auto magazines found in Walgreens and other stores often contain HF coupons on a page or two in the back of the magazine. It might be worth purchasing one with coupons that would be helpful. They usually contain the 20% and torque wrench coupons. I've never seen specific coupons for seal pullers and the drain plug socket set.

I would get some penetrating lubricant like PB Blaster and spray easily accessible fasteners around the area for a few days before you do the job to help loosen parts.

[yngw13]

thanks for the tip about the pb blaster....and the coupons....worst case I'll just have to get them at reg price which still come up cheaper than premium in other stores....

[GRNMACHINE]

Pathfinder has been in storage for 4 months, picked it up and drove it. Missed it.

[Pathfinder3.5]

Saw it drive towards me in oncoming traffic. I may or may not have shed a tear.

[SBK03SE]

Saw it drive towards me in oncoming traffic. I may or may not have shed a tear.

I do a double take every time I see a similar one, but my color is rare so it's not too often. When I see mine I'll know it! </3

[zach7685]

There are so manny here merlot red is rare though but the blue one is Very rare.

[SBK03SE]

True, I can't say I've ever seen the nicer blue one. The pale one, who's looking for that?

[Towncivilian]

Haven't seen many of my "bronzed grey" KX0 color code.

[zach7685]

https://maps.google.com/maps?q=Woodruff ... 81,,0,3.02 Found myselfe on street view

[Buzzman]

True, I can't say I've ever seen the nicer blue one. The pale one, who's looking for that?

Not sure which blue is which, but this is mine. A 2002 Chilkoot (Canadian).
I've only seen a few (blue ones) here over the years,
and I haven't seen any in my travels through the states.

[Buzzman]

Glass is free in SC... Beautiful places smiling faces. lol

Used to be free here as well, but they nuked that provision a few years ago.
Now it's part of the normal collision coverage.
In my case, I have a $500.00 deductible, which is more than the cost of the windshield.
(I paid approx. $260.00 for the windshield, installed.)

[zach7685]

Off topic but how many Pathfinder/QX4's yall see like a day