https://youtu.be/_QffhFU9AZw
Could it be spark plugs? I took them out and they were covered in fuel.

I didn't play the video with sound, being at work at the moment, but I did notice your check engine light is on. Please get the codes pulled with a scanner and let us know what pops up! Feel free to describe the issue as well. Looks like an idle problem judging by your tach. Vacuum, TPS, MAF, timing, IACV, fuel pressure, ground wires, etc. Codes or a written description might help with getting help. You can search IDLE and RICH together to get some ideas as well. Please let us know how it goes.

I checked the codes, and its o2 sensor and knock sensor, could knock sensor cause this?

There is also a code P0446 Evaporative Emission System vent Controlled Circuit.

Sorry for the delayed reply. Knock sensor often get's paired with the real issue so no, I don't think it could cause this. O2 sensor, you bet! Get that replaced and try again. Evap system could be another issue, but more related to passing a smog inspection. Tackle that when you have a smooth idle and driving ability imho.

I dont think it would be o2, because i dont have a cat so i had that code way earlier and it was fine, but when i rebuilt the head and put everything back together it started doing this.

Well, you might need one of those extension bits that pulls the sensor out of the stream a bit to correct it's readings for not having a cat. That and having a good working sensor of course. You have two sensors right? Is your code for the primary or secondary? I know those O2 sensors can cause a rough idle and odd throttle response, but you say it worked before... The list I posted above might still be applicable. Per your mention of head work, you might look into the vacuum systems and your timing. Upon another viewing and with volume, I'm not thinking this is a timing issue. Can you keep it alive if you give it some throttle?

Yes i am able to keep it alive, it dies when its standing still, or when i press the clutch in while driving.

I will try cleaning throttle bldy maybe?

Yeah, that never hurts. Maybe deal with the o2 sensors. EVAP had me thinking about fuel pressure and vacuum. Have you checked FP and vacuum leaks?

Ok cleaning the throttle body didnt help, how do i test fuel pressure?

I will check fuel pressure today, and maybe i will try cleaning the pcv valve?

Meh, not likely PCV valve. The hose from the valve to your intake could be ancient and cracked, causing a huge vacuum leak, so check there with a flashlight or spray carb cleaner down there. Even if the PCV is dirty and all plugged up, it's not really a reason for your engine to die the way it is.

Yeah, borrow a gauge and check the fuel pressure.

Check your fuel injectors for resistance in Ohms.

Ok ,i didn't get a chance to measure fuel pressure today, but when i warmed up the engine it wasn't stalling anymore and idle was much smoother, although my card seems to overheat, i got a new radiator, new thermostat, new water pump. Could it be the coolant temp sensor?

Maybe. The one with two wires sends data to the ECU. That is used for warm up mode vs regular driving mode. I forget what it's called at the moment, but it affect AFR and like ignores some signals until it's warmed up. I think it's open loop mode or closed loop mode. Good thinking. You can test your sensors, but I think you'd have a code for this one. I don't know, I'm trying to help but you kind of have a stumper! Hmm, If the sensor works, you should have the car in warm up mode, then it hits a temp and goes to closed loop mode, then it hits another temp and you should see your radiator fan turn on, before overheating obviously. Do you fans turn on? Did you ever do anything to address your O2 sensors? You have two of them right? And a code for at least one and a cat delete... Seems like something should be straightened out there.

The code was from the second o2 sensor, which i plugged in and the code cleared. I have a aftermarket radiator, with aftermarket fans, which are currently not hooked up. I started the car up today, opened the radiator cap to see if there is some kind of flow and there was none. As in my other car you could see the coolant moving easily.

Should i wire up the fans and see if that help?

Having working fans is a good thing, but I don't think it's a fix to your initial issue. Did hooking up your sensors have any effect on the idle? Have you driven it any distance? Have any codes cleared out?

I bypassed the heater core and drove 5miles and went hard couple times and it isnt overheating anymore i think. Tempreture stayed the same, as of codes i will check tomorrow but last time i checked it was knock sensor and evaporation one.

Is it holding idle now? That would be great!

Sometimes it is sometimes it still dies, when ill have more time ill measure fuel pressure

I am having trouble getting a tool to measure fuel pressure, but i read some people had similar problem after deleting egr, i deleted mine and maybe didnt connect vacuum hoses right?

That's a possibility for a vacuum leak or re-routing of vacuum to/from the wrong area. Did you plug the exhaust manifold end and the intake end with plates? That's important. Then, re-routing of the vacuum lines to the swirl valve is all that's left. What you did for those two steps should be done correctly and I don't think you'll get a code for the EGR when all is said and done. How did you change the swirl valve hoses?

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Isnt the swirls valve in s13? Because i checked out the pictures and i didnt have it.

Well, maybe it's a terminology thing. There is a swirl valve (aka EGR BPT valve) on our S14 cars as well as on the S13. It goes right above and next to the EGR. Sounds like yours is gone then? So, you have the plug plates installed? There is a vacuum line coming from a solenoid to the swirl valve. That needs to be capped off.