Were does my SR go from here?

[PalmerWMD]

Where does my SR go from here?

This is what my car came with, when I bought it:(Non Engine Mods ONLY included for completeness sake)

SR20DET (redtop)Boost GaugeBlitz BOVGreddy FMICTurbo TimerACT ClutchWalbro 255lGriffin radiatorSilvia Front endGreddy DownpipeApexiN1 catbackBadly beat up generic cone filter.

This is what its got in the last 8 weeks since I been driving it::

Greddy oil PanNismo Mechanical LSD (on hand and going in this week)Boost Controller (running 13 to 14 lbs)Tein Springs all around.KYB Struts allaroundComplete (!) Energy Polyurethane bushing kitEnkei "racing" wheels with Ultra Sticky Vikto Racers in the rear (AutoCross tires) and Dunlop Sports in the front (all 225/50 Zr16's)K&N Cone filter with addtional center intake.

I am pretty sure I want a trasher kit, so I dont have to worry about my valves too much at high rpms.And I am probably also gonna do Steel braided brake lines this week.

All other items not mentioned are stock.

I am willing to spend an addtional 2k.All engine related work will be non-DIY for me and parts must be NICO sponsor parts (I am the Admin after all and how could I expect members to buy from them,if I didnt)

Where do I got from here, with an emphasis on power Mods, and not sacrifing streetability too badly.

What are the SR Gurus suggestions?

Fred...

PS: Yes, I read Pauls sticky.

[Def]

I'm not sure if you just left out brakes, but an SR powered 240SX definitely needs more than the stock brakes if you plan on using the car in any sort of spirited manner. Q45 brakes up front are pretty inexpensive and a big improvement. If none of the sponsers sell a kit, then I know they definitely sell some Z32 brake kits.

Other than that, I'd get a GReddy turbo extension(O2 housing), as you should see pretty nice gains from that at your boost level.

If you have enough of your 2k budget left over, might want to look into an S15 turbo or FP Big28. You won't be able to max them out with your stock MAF and injectors, but you can run maybe 10psi on them then up the boost when you get injectors, MAF and ECU tune to make it all run.

I'd also run the same tires all the way around, but that's just me. I hate understeer.

[PalmerWMD]

Thanks for the input!Keep it coming!Will definetly look into that.

Fred..

PS: Me too but there will be no understeer with these tires very nearly as sticky as drags, except they have nice strong sidewalls and super directional stability very strong carcass too with super sticky rubber ( tread wear 50 ) would love to run them all around ( 180 each ..)

[Def]

Well, with sticky tires in the rear and street tires up front, your fronts will lose grip way before the rears in a hard corner. Thus creating understeer when approaching the limit.

If you're just going to run them on the street, I doubt you'll ever notice though, as driving at the 8-9 tenths necessary for that to show up is just unsafe.

Another thing I thought of, the S13 chassis has the rigidity of a wet noodle, so what about some bracing? I don't have any firsthand experience, but the Nismo powerbrace looks sweet, along with some SPL fender braces. Heck, all of the SPL trick suspension parts make me weak in the knees when I look at them. I say get some SPL tension rods if you really want a responsive turn-in.

[sportbikedude]

T28 !!

[Def]

You know, if all you want is straightline speed with this $2k, you'd be hard pressed to really beat this kit from srswap.com(sponser of course!):

http://srownersclub.com/Mercha...RBKIT

It'd save you the time of piecing everything together, although I don't necessarily like JWT ECU's, it is a hassle free way to at least get your setup working.

[PalmerWMD]

Aaaa that looks real good..!!!I like this I like this a lot...

Fred..:drooling

[ride4lame]

definitely focus on suspension, something i know little about

but in terms of power, for 2 grand you could get a t28 and cams and you could make a ton more power

[LSB_11]

what is the best turbo, i see so many names and different turbo options on that page, what is the best turbo for an s13sr, with all supporting mods, for about 300-360 horse, what are the options, and what is the best spooling one?

[Def]

This has all been covered before, but here are a few choices that will bolt up to your stock manifold

S15 T28 - 300rwhp ~$800FP Big28 - ~330rwhp ~$800-900GT28RS(Disco Potato) - ~300-310rwhp ~$1050 - fast spoolGT25R 0.64 turbine A/R - ~320-350rwhp ~$1050 - slightly slower spool than the DP

That's ordered from fastest to slowest spool, although the last three are probably pretty close. Just depends on how much power you want to balance with your lag.

[RobDET]

phase2 T28, 550's, SAFC, Z32 AFM. You might be able to pull that off for less than 2000 and you would be in the 12's on street tires Can't beat that.

[Hijacker]

So far from my research, the best bet for power and quick spooling is the S15 T28. For a street machine, it seems to be highly balanced, and unless you really want an 11 second car, will be more than you need.

[LSB_11]

i allready have a haltech, FMIC, 3bar map sensor, and will have prolly at least 660cc injectors, and i like the pricing of the FP big28. how much lag on that specific turbo, and is that an external or internal wastegate?

[LSB_11]

my freind had mentioned precision turbochargers to me. have any of you heard of them/used them? they seem to have great prices, and a pretty good selection, i just dont know how they actually performe.

http://www.wiredspeed.com/wire...c=PRE

[Def]

FP Big28 seems like it spools up just a hair slower than stock since it still uses the stock housings, just larger wheels. It's an internal gate, since it is basically your stock turbo with larger wheels in it.

[ca18det_boy]

I'd say a tubular top mount T3/T4 manifold with a matching turbo, 550cc injectors with a Z32 MAF. Maybe an upgraded fuel rail, with the HKS stage 2 cams/adj. cam gears. Some nice sway bars/strut tower braces, a cute chick some balls and a nice twisty road. Maybe a slushy to.........

[turbo6]

[Phax]

Do the brakes... rotors, calipers, pads, stainless lines and some DOT-5 fluid. With your recent mods, you are going to go from pushing the limits of the stock brake system, to flying WAY past them. 14psi is enough to start inducing tunnel vision. :ylsuper

How much did you pay for your wheels? Are they 4 or 5 lug?

[PalmerWMD]

4 lug Enkeis.

Yes, a brake upgrade would be nice.But in a way, I have a bit of a brake upgrade right now, cuz the cars been lightened some:

1) SR lighter than KA2) Stripped trunk3) No headliner4) No "A" pillar trim, no power seat "bringers"5) Removed all noise insulation6) Some interior panels out.7) No glovebox8) Silvia front end lighter than stock, mostly due to ,no flipup headlights9) No radio/speakers10) No AC compressor ( condensor still in, may take out)11) No windshield washer pump

Fred..

PS: Hmm,.. They make carbon Fiber hoods for S13 Silivia fronts?PS#2: yes I'll get a brake upgrade just now I crave extra power tho..

[TruboostPerformance]

turbo and cams

[Hijacker]

Fred, I'd finish up the suspension first. But if you crave a bit of extra power, get one of the HKS actuators. You can set it to about 14psi and get plenty of power out of the T-25. But I prefer a car that can turn well over a car that will accelerate fast.

[Def]

I still think a Q45 front brake setup is warranted at the very least. That won't cost much, and you'll tremendously improve fade resistance. If you do more than drag race the car, then you will WANT to upgrade your brakes. The stock rotors are so puny that you will fade even decent street pads with a few hard stops.

At this point, you might want to consider your personal safety in your mod plans. Just 10% of your "go fast" budget right now could make your car reliably stop from high speeds over and over.

Severe brake fade is easily possible with your car, and it is NOT an experience I'd wish on anybody.

-Jacob, who's had pads fade on him at the end of a 125mph straight(on the track of course) and almost had an off into the kitty litter.

[180fan]

I'd say q45's with some hawk hps+ pads and slotted brembo rotors. While you're down there, get the stainless steel brake lines (might as well get the ss clutch line too lol)

Whiteline or ST sway bars

If you haven't already, might want to invest in a short shifter like b&m or c's.

For the valve train, I'd say get cams, rocker arm stoppers, and valvesprings. When the valve cover's off might as well change as much as you can eh? Streetable cams, I'd opt for 256 In/264 Ex.

Might wanna look into some strut tower bars, front fender braces (Tanabe).

Catco 3" cat to replace your stock one, or to keep you from a big ticket (if you're in CA esp)

T28 turbo from an S15 with stainless lines for oil and coolant to back you up. Those hardlines are a PITA to get to.

[PalmerWMD]

If I add all these Brake Mods it will make the turbo kit mentioned above unaffordable..As for handling after the Energy bushing set on top of the Teins and KYB's, its not gonna see any more handling mods for a bit.

The car is within a couple of grand of absolute limit of what I am willing to spend on it.I just cant justify turning this into a 20k car or even 15k car, cuz for that, i could have bought Pauls car which is nicer IMO.And I am at 12k right now counting the brand new Nismo mechanical diff thats going in today.

The only reason I am willing to consider the extra 2k is, cuz I put so much $$ and hassle into it already, might as well spend an adtional small amount and get a really fast car as a payoff not just a kinda fast car.

Fred..

[Def]

I understand the budget thing, but maybe you should revise your budget to include some brakes, or choose something else to spend it on. 320+rwhp and using it all for more than 10-12 seconds will be beyond what the stock brakes can really stop quickly and reliably IMO.

$200 really isn't much money at this level, and it can mean the difference between a bad crash when your brakes fade and you feeling confident in the car's abilities and being safe.

Your call ultimately, but S13's have about the crappiest brakes I've come across in a while. I can only imagine how they will perform when you triple the power output of the stock engine.

[Nathan]

Brakes are nice...but on a 100% street driven car I'm just not seeing the need. Sure they are nice to have, but unless you drive like a ****ing maniac, you shouldn't experience any fade. Lord knows I drive fast, but considering my car will NEVER see anything but a drag strip I've been happy with stock brakes so far, and will continue to be happy with them until I wear them out...then you might as well upgrade since you'll be replacing stuff anyway. Having more power doesn't mean you need bigger brakes. Driving fast and doing lots and lots of heavy braking does. I just think they are unnecessary for soley street use.

[PalmerWMD]

Def I am likely going to go with your recomendation on the FPbig28 turbo kit from heavy throttle.

Fred..

[Altiman94]

that looks like a very nice kit. For that kinda money I dont think you can go wrong especially since it includes the jwt ecu. I would definitely look into that fred. I hope u bring your 240 to the Indy meet so I can get a close up look at it.

[Def]

Brakes are nice...but on a 100% street driven car I'm just not seeing the need. Sure they are nice to have, but unless you drive like a ****ing maniac, you shouldn't experience any fade. Lord knows I drive fast, but considering my car will NEVER see anything but a drag strip I've been happy with stock brakes so far, and will continue to be happy with them until I wear them out...then you might as well upgrade since you'll be replacing stuff anyway. Having more power doesn't mean you need bigger brakes. Driving fast and doing lots and lots of heavy braking does. I just think they are unnecessary for soley street use.

On a car that actually has some meaningful amount of braking power, I'd agree with you. A stock 240SX has absolutely laughable heat capacity with stock rotors and even decent street pads.

I guess if your car is solely a straightline machine, but I tend to think that one would go in the mountains or canyons every once in a while with a fair amount of suspension work. Otherwise, why not go with the stock suspension for straightline speed? You'll get better weight transfer than a modded suspension...

As a point of reference: It took a lot of spirited driving and fun in the twisties to even get my M3's stock brakes up to a median temp of 300-400*F. The 240SX I faded the pads in 30 seconds just to see how they would hold up. I have no idea what pads are on there, but the stock rotors were absolutely cooking. This was on the street, and I really wasn't driving like a maniac. 5/10's max. I guess my comfort limit is alot higher after going to the track and autocrossing though.

It is still my opinion that one should not ignore the brakes on a car that's making that much power in the event you ever want to actually go fast around a corner(which is pretty fun btw:)). We're talking about 1/30th the amount spent on the engine to get a HUGE increase in braking performance.

[Nathan]

Well, I guess part of it is that Dallas (my home territory) doesn't really have twisties, we just have stoplights and miles of straight roads. Most any spirited driving around here is in a straight line Your right though, stock suspension rocks for getting traction, its damned near impossible to break the tires loose, and thats with 326whp and craptastic tires. Perhaps Fred would have more use for a curvy road oriented machine, I dont know how KY is, but I think there's that one famous road with like 135 curves in 10 miles or something out there. I wish we had more curvy roads that were safe to speed a bit on