Went from good to bad in a hurry...

[S14-KOUKI-MONSTER]

I just recently swapped an kouki notchtop into my usdm kouki. I took it for it's first longer drive last tuesday. The car drove great, and was even quicker than I had imagined. I was so excited to be able to drive it for the last few weeks of summer.

The next day I noticed a very slight oil leak on my parking spot. Checked it out, but could find no evidence of a leak with the car running, so I thought "ok keep an eye on it". Drove it the next day with no problems. This morning I bend down to check the spot and there's a puddle of oil about 3" in diameter. So I start the car and bend down to look for drips. It's dripping steadily every few seconds from the exhaust side of the engine. Look with my flashlight, and can see that the leak is coming from the the ss turbo oil feed line at the block.

So I figure "no big deal", and go get my stubby wrenches. Get a wrench on the fitting and see it's quite loose. Tighten it a few more turns, and realize that the fitting had stripped out the threads on the block.

So the way I see it, I can:1-Tap the block and use a helicoil to retain the same fitting.2-Tap the block and use a new 1/4" tapered pipe fitting into the block, and adapt to line as needed.3-Use jb weld to fill in gaps between stripped block threads and fitting threads.4-Tig weld new aluminum fitting straight to block.Not too keen on 3 or 4.

I guess I'll have to remove my a/c & bracket, and maybe the manifold & turbo. Dammit!!! This is seriously the last thing I needed right before I take my vacation. I'll be thinking of this the whole time, and won't be able to relax.

My buddy who wanted to help out on the project was the one who puts the lines on. He feels even worse than me about the situation.

Anybody else have their lines stipped at the block? If so what did you do?

Lesson of the day for me: Don't let unqualified friends do simple, yet vital work on your car no matter how easy they might seem.

Modified by S14-KOUKI-MONSTER at 12:01 AM 8/24/2007
Modified by S14-KOUKI-MONSTER at 12:02 AM 8/24/2007

[IanS]

+ 1 for welding, its usually the best way to do things, JB weld sucks

[Hijacker]

Helicoil may be your safest bet, but I would advise you to be careful so you don't get metal shavings in the oil pan. Just do a thorough inspection before you button everything back up.

[burntricer]

id weld a new fitting to the block, if you have the skill sto do so...id say its the safest.

[bone_stock_240]

Helicoil FTW. We use them religiously on the engines we build at pratt and whitney canada. I was also taking to a motorcycle engine builder. The first thing he does when they get brand new engines in, is take them apart and helicoil every vital hole.

[burntricer]

sorry for the thread jack..

orlando, man, i never see you on msn no more, i gotta ask u some questions.

[bone_stock_240]

Yeah, I don't go on much the past month or so. Most of my internet usage happens and work, and unfortunately I do not have msn here.

[efrain240sx]

man that sucks. The same thing happen to me. I had to take out the engine and take it to the machine shop to get a helicoil welded on. Only paid $40 for it but the ghey part is all the work you have to do to get the engine out

[S14-KOUKI-MONSTER]

Thanks for all the advice guys. The only down side to using a helicoil is that it must be perfectly straight. I'm leaning towards using a tapered pipe fitting, since if it's a slight bit off 90 degrees from the block, it will still be ok. The taper will make sure that it's nice and snug.

THANKS GUYS

[Hijacker]

Keep us updated on how it goes!

[S14-KOUKI-MONSTER]

Keep us updated on how it goes!

Will do. Going camping for a few days, so I'm probably going to tap my block on saturday or sunday.

[chicos240]

This happened to me. I actually BROKE the Nipple on the block trying to tap it. Dont do it yourself!!! Have a pro weld it or tap it. I ended up having to grind the nipple all the way back to the block.Redrilling, re tapping and putting a piece of galvanized pipe in the hole and attaching a fitting to that. Best of luck, stick with a pro and save yourself my headaches and down time.

[doridori23]

More often than not this happens due to lack of back tapping the threads. When tapping aluminum, brass, or any soft metal go in half turn and out half turn Do this until you have 2 full turns in then back the tap all the way out. Clean outthe flutes and try you best to clean out the threads. then start tapping again. Pull out the tap after every 2 NEW threads (2, 4, 6, 8 etc turns in) You must do this as the softer metals have a tendency to peel when you tap and the peels will make a curly fry in the flutes , clog the flutes, then the pressure will either crack what you are tapping or break the tap.

This is how I tap all aluminum and brass. I do this at least twice a week at the marina and once a week in the garage. Everything from #10-32 or 1"NPT (POS Mercury Marine Sterndrives) all taps the same way. Takes forever but it always comes out right.

[boost_creep]

this happened on my friends blacktop.we put a helicoil in and it worked like a charm.i would suggest at least trying it first.it wouldnt hurt.then just make sure you crank it a bunch and shoot some oil out,with any metal shavings.

[Nismotouched]

wow that sucks, Iv stripped things but never something like that

[supreamS14]

I dont have an ac compressor right now so All I had 2 do was move the PS pump,hot pipe, intake/maf then I stuck a small peace of leather all the way back the size of the hole to keep metal shavings out of the block/oil pan. I dident drill, I tapped very slowly and carefully. Blew all the shavings out, q-tipped to remove all small stubern shivings , took out the leather peace , helicoil the hole now it feels like that hole will NEVER strip out again!!! Took me 3 hours or so with motor in the car! No oil drips now!!! My guess is this is comon with sr's. Thanks Nico another motor saved!!!

[Red93coupe]

Hey Burnticer I see your in TB, ON.....I might be up there sometime this summer we should meet up!!!