Well I suppose I'm apart of the RB club now

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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Monogato
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QTip wrote:
Wow that's really close. I'm on 287&Cooper.I am still getting mine all prepped to go in though.
Damn that would only be a couple minutes away. I'm interested in seeing it dropped in, how close are you? I might make the trip and watch if you don't mind...


craz4240
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Let me know 150$ Canadian and their yours...:D

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Monogato
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craz4240 wrote:Let me know 150$ Canadian and their yours...:D
$140US for piston rings is way more than I was going to pay for OEM.

I was going to pay $91 shipped. Thanks for the offer though.

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Monogato
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Got my oil pump from Nissanparts.cc

SUPER fast shipping. I ordered mine Saturday and it was here today. Great people and customer service, also got some sweet decals 8-)


Modified by Monogato at 2:39 PM 1/25/2010

craz4240
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Monogato wrote:$140US for piston rings is way more than I was going to pay for OEM.

I was going to pay $91 shipped. Thanks for the offer though.
Yeah we pay more for stuff here in canada...but we make less...go figure..:P

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Monogato
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craz4240 wrote:
Yeah we pay more for stuff here in canada...but we make less...go figure..:P
Haha word brotha!

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Monogato
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I thought the trannys were different length.

I was wrong.



So were the people that agreed :P

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RustspecS13
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What are you looking at, because the shifters are a good 1 to 1 1/2in apart. Maybe the absolute over all length including that driveshaft dust shield thing, which I had to remove to fit my ka drive shaft, is the same, but the housings are completely different.

The internals are pretty much the same RB20/KA/SR but the external housings are different for every application.

If you blow your rb20 trans, you can use a KA one with the front bellhousing, but you'll need a shortened drive shaft and your shifter will be off.

I haven't seen any one swap the rear housings around, but it might work.

~Alex

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Monogato
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RustspecS13 wrote:What are you looking at, because the shifters are a good 1 to 1 1/2in apart. Maybe the absolute over all length including that driveshaft dust shield thing, which I had to remove to fit my ka drive shaft, is the same, but the housings are completely different.

The internals are pretty much the same RB20/KA/SR but the external housings are different for every application.

If you blow your rb20 trans, you can use a KA one with the front bellhousing, but you'll need a shortened drive shaft and your shifter will be off.

I haven't seen any one swap the rear housings around, but it might work.

~Alex
Lol.

The only thing I'm saying it that someone said they were different. They are the same they are interchangable, I know the shifters are different as people who usually do swaps say the shifter sits forward more than KA.

So in reality they are the same.

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Monogato
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Walbro came in today :D

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Monogato
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Just got the timing belt kit and ARP headstuds!

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I went to my local shop to get a quote for my RB swap into my S-chassis shell and they said $5K. Does that sound reasonable? They are doing the complete swap w/ motor-set, transmission, wiring harness, driveshaft, etc. I thought it was reasonable, but I just wanted to get some other opinions.

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Monogato
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RB what?

Doesn't sound reasonable for a RB20...maybe 26?

gr8bryt
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Oh yea, my bad...rb25.

sololock
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gr8bryt wrote:Oh yea, my bad...rb25.
Still no. Do it your self.

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Monogato
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I agree, save yourself the 5k and put it in the motor!

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Monogato wrote:I agree, save yourself the 5k and put it in the motor!
I would, but I work f/t, f/t college student, and f/t parent&husband. I honestly don't have the time to put it. I would rather spend the $$ and know that I won't have to be piecing stuff together to make everything run right. Remember, the $5K covers everything. I'm gonna tow my shell into the shop, and I'll be driving it home after about 2 weeks.

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Monogato
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True, just do what you think is right in the end. Are you rebuilding the motor or just dropping it in?

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Monogato wrote:
I know the shifters are different as people who usually do swaps say the shifter sits forward more than KA.
The striker the shifter sit in is different & one bolt on the base plate of the shifter is larger & shifted forward slightly. The B&M s.s. ka to rb how to points this out. The mounting points should be different as well but they are basically the same internal wise & from the center section back.

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gr8bryt wrote:
I would, but I work f/t, f/t college student, and f/t parent&husband. I honestly don't have the time to put it. I would rather spend the $$ and know that I won't have to be piecing stuff together to make everything run right. Remember, the $5K covers everything. I'm gonna tow my shell into the shop, and I'll be driving it home after about 2 weeks.
For a shop to do it properly its not that bad, but doing it yourself you now whats in your car 100%. I dont trust too many shops... well 3 & thats only because I know the owners/mechanics personally.

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Monogato
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tad_07 wrote:The striker the shifter sit in is different & one bolt on the base plate of the shifter is larger & shifted forward slightly. The B&M s.s. ka to rb how to points this out. The mounting points should be different as well but they are basically the same internal wise & from the center section back.
So I could indeed use my KA one?

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Monogato wrote:True, just do what you think is right in the end. Are you rebuilding the motor or just dropping it in?
I'll be just dropping it in initially. I plan to recondition it progressively. Starting w/ seals, gaskets, and bearings. After that, I'll do timing belt, and other general maintenance. Finally when its pretty close to 100% I'll start adding bolt-ons.

I've known the guys for a few years back when I was driving my Honda. They're cool peeps and frankly the only ones here where I live that I would entrust for such an endeavor. They've been working on tuners for years and I trust their experience.

Quick question; I'm guessing that a Power FC will do the job for engine management, but I'm thinking that I will need a separate controller for boost. Is this true or does PwrFC already have it built in?

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Monogato
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Damn 3 pages back? Didn't know it's been that long!

Well the weather here has been s***ty, and I'm doing this stuff outside with a friend. I've also been sick. But the weather is changing so we started taking some stuff off last night, just little stuff like coil packs and stuff. Today it was a beautiful day, took off both manifolds, compressor, p/s,a/c, and crank pulley. Also took off the timing belt and covers. Hopefully tomorrow both pumps will come off along with the head. I just don't have the 6 point to get the head off. What size is it?

EDIT:I will post up pics later.

Also, a s*** load of studs were broken on both manifolds which I'm pissed but it's an old motor so I figured. I know ARP makes the exhaust sides. Might have to hit up Nissan for the intake side.

l0nestar
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You can use all-thread, or I just ordered new OEM studs before I installed my exhaust manifold.

I had a stud snapped off and recessed inside the head, so I removed that and just installed all new studs. easy & cheap.

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Monogato
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Yeah I think I'm just going to get the shop to get them out when I send the head out.

Where did you order them btw?I know Nissan doesn't have the RB listed, at least not the one here.

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Monogato
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Here are the pics (sorry for s***ty phone cam pics!)


gr8bryt
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That motor looks pretty good man. Congrats on the tear down and GL w/ the rebuild!

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Monogato
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gr8bryt wrote:That motor looks pretty good man. Congrats on the tear down and GL w/ the rebuild!
Thanks mate!

Also, when I pulled the plugs they all looked the same, and all in good condition NGK Platinum's. Which gave me the idea the motor was running fine, also the timing belt still looked good as well!

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Monogato
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Don't forget I got parts for sale, check my FS thread

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BoostFab
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@MONOGATO: so you're in Arlington TX? What car is it going in btw?


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