weird problem

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gibald
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 4:46 am

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my 1990 240 is acting real weird. when im at a stop and i give the car a little gas it seems to almost stall but then suddenly the rpms go up and the car drives fine. then when i shift between gears and i give it gas it does the same thing. the rpms kinda drop real low then the car sounds like its sputtering and then the engine revs up. this also happens if i am driving in any gear and give it gas to accelerate. it hesitates for a second then it just grabs and goes. i recently changed the spark plugs and wires and fuel filter. anyone ever encounter this?

EDIT: it also was idling very high, somewhere around 1200-1400.
Modified by gibald at 8:21 AM 8/13/2007


gibald
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 4:46 am

Post

bump

this problem is not consistant. it seems to happen when my car is already warmed up. i drove it about 20 miles home on the highway and it just started screwing up about 2 miles from my house.

alexh
Posts: 48
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:44 pm

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I know this might not be much consolation but I have been fighting this problem for a year now. Of course you could have a different problem but it sounds very similar.

I got very little help from this forum - hopefully you will fare better.

The standard advice you will get here is that it's the MAF. However, every test I run on the MAF shows it's OK. However, I can't be sure that when I test the MAF it is in it's failure mode - it may be intermittent. Also consider that a new MAF is $400 so you want to be sure before you replace it.

Here's my latest thinking on this issue -

zerothread/271636

Note that my symptoms have gotten progressively worse although they started out just like yours. In a way this is good because if the car quits all together I can find the problem. However, it's dangerous to drive at this point. Recently I got on the freeway and it was like someone turnd the key off for about 1-2 secs.


Modified by alexh at 2:09 PM 8/13/2007

alexh
Posts: 48
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:44 pm

Post

Ok,

I found the place in the manual where they give detailed info on the resistance measurements of the TPS. Manual says 2k @ no throttle, 10k @ WOT.

I get 1k with no throttle.

Gibald, can you check your TPS? I can post the page from the manual describing how to do this if you need it. You also need a DVM or ohm meter.Checking the TPS is about the only thing on this vehicle that's really easy.

Modified by alexh at 9:06 PM 8/13/2007
Modified by alexh at 9:09 PM 8/13/2007

User avatar
leonelrr
Posts: 232
Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 9:43 pm
Car: s13,s14, z32TT, YZF R6 None of them work nothing to brag about

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Same problem here, how ever when my car goes off, or just sometimes displays a check engine light. It blinks constantly it doesn't stay on, last time i checked the codes on Mode II i think i had a code for the EGR valve, i had a hose that was messed up replaced it. And did a reset on the computer and the code went off, but still comes like whenever it wants.The car is running rich on NOX so i am just gonna check the EGR, selenoid, diapragm and the Mass Air flow sensor, and the Oxygen sensor, if that doesn't work then i don't know what it would be..

gibald
Posts: 58
Joined: Fri Jun 15, 2007 4:46 am

Post

alexh:

yea im planning on checking my MAF and TPS in about a half an hour i'll let you know what i come up with. i was checking through some other posts and i decided that i'm also going to check the resistance on my injectors. i believe its supposed to be at 12 ohms. some kid checked his (having a similar problem) and it was at 3 ohms. could also be a vacuum leak, my vacuum booster is very badly rusted and could be screwing me up. ill try to post a picture of it later.

leonelrr:

my car doesnt throw a check engine light. but then again the kid that owned it before me took the car apart so for all i know it doesnt even work. (thats why i never get down to E...idk if my gas light comes on!! lol)

alexh
Posts: 48
Joined: Fri Jul 14, 2006 12:44 pm

Post

Guys,

Look here -

zerothread/272832

The valve is almost certainly bad - it's just a question if it could cause the relatively severe symptoms I'm seeing. For now I just disabled the EGR and plugged the vacuum source. Initial impressions are that the throttle response is improved, but I thought I fixed this problem several times before so I'll wait before pronouncing it fixed.

Robi1
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:30 am
Car: Nissan Bluebird

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Here's another thing to look for check all your vacuum rubber hoses and connexions there may be a pinhole leak somewhere. especially on the hoses connected from firewall to motor with the age of the car in question perished rubber would be the first to check for. With all the smog gear you guys have over there it's a plumbers nightmare under the bonnets of cars that age. And newer.


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