Weird issues...?

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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You should ohm check your injectors. Put your multimeter leads on the 2 pins on the injector, each one should be between 10 and 14 ohms. Usually a bad injector will ohm out high (usually well over 14 ohms). However, a bad injector on its own shouldn't cause what you described above. Stinging eyes and such from exhaust gas is definitely caused by having trashed cats. I'm guessing that your main cats are pretty old and are toast. Usually cats get fried from either age or from running rich too long. Running rich destroys cats and o2 sensors.

So you should ohm test your fuel injectors first and see if any are out of spec. There's a few other ways to check them, just look at the "Everything you need to know about Z32s" sticky thread. If all the injectors are good, you should have an exhaust shop check your cats, or just replace them. You can get universal Magnaflow ones on ebay for ~$65 each and then just pay an exhaust shop like $50-100 to install them.


denraweb
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:43 am
Car: 1992 300ZX Twin Turbo

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t.mcginley.jr wrote:You should ohm check your injectors. Put your multimeter leads on the 2 pins on the injector, each one should be between 10 and 14 ohms. Usually a bad injector will ohm out high (usually well over 14 ohms). However, a bad injector on its own shouldn't cause what you described above. Stinging eyes and such from exhaust gas is definitely caused by having trashed cats. I'm guessing that your main cats are pretty old and are toast. Usually cats get fried from either age or from running rich too long. Running rich destroys cats and o2 sensors.

So you should ohm test your fuel injectors first and see if any are out of spec. There's a few other ways to check them, just look at the "Everything you need to know about Z32s" sticky thread. If all the injectors are good, you should have an exhaust shop check your cats, or just replace them. You can get universal Magnaflow ones on ebay for ~$65 each and then just pay an exhaust shop like $50-100 to install them.
Yea the ohm test for the injectors was one of the first things I told myself to do but I guess it just kept slipping my mind. Gonna do that tomorrow. Also I don't have main cats (last time i checked lol). I'm running oem precats, greddy test pipes, and greddy evo2 cat back exhaust. I know I'm gonna need the cats to smog so I appreciate that info about ebay which for some reason I didn't think about. Good news is I'm an experienced welder and have all the equipment to build a flanged smog legal exhaust one I get a pair of cats.

I'll check the exhaust and drop the precats to check them after I do my ohm test. I hope it is some of the injectors. Although expensive, it would be cheaper than doing internal work. I'll do another compression test tomorrow too and see what my numbers pull.

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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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Good news is I'm an experienced welder and have all the equipment to build a flanged smog legal exhaust one I get a pair of cats.
Gah! I really need to learn how to weld..

denraweb
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:43 am
Car: 1992 300ZX Twin Turbo

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t.mcginley.jr wrote:
Good news is I'm an experienced welder and have all the equipment to build a flanged smog legal exhaust one I get a pair of cats.
Gah! I really need to learn how to weld..
It definitely comes in handy lol. Plus it's pretty fun. Only thing that sucks is equipment is expensive. Decent welder, helmet(s), wire, cut off saw(s)/grinder(s), all the little cleaning/marking accessories, etc. But well worth it and will pay for itself if you use it enough/do work for other people once you get good at it.

Anywho, so started to check my injectors today... Pulled #1 plug (driver's side, closest to radiator), and put my ohm meter on it, and set the range, and i got a reading of 26.8... Which is waaayyy out of spec. BUT I'm not sure if I have my meter set right. I use the meter a lot, lol, just wanna double check before I try to buy injectors. I checked my coil packs (with the range set one notch less to read 0.00 rather than what I have it at now to read 00.0) the same way as I just did that first injector. Look right?

Image



Here's the results for all injectors...
6) 12.3 5) 12.8
4) 18.1 3) 12.6
2) 12.3 1) 26.8
So 1 and 4 seem to be out of spec by far...
Could two bad injectors be my whole issue?

EDIT: Also my injectors are different colors... Issue?

Injectors 2 and 6 are grey
Injectors 3 and 5 are like a sky blue
Injector 1 is brown
and Injector 4 is like an orange/brown

User avatar
t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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It definitely comes in handy lol. Plus it's pretty fun. Only thing that sucks is equipment is expensive. Decent welder, helmet(s), wire, cut off saw(s)/grinder(s), all the little cleaning/marking accessories, etc. But well worth it and will pay for itself if you use it enough/do work for other people once you get good at it.
Yeah I was seriously thinking about getting a used one off craigslist just to try and learn. You don't need anything real heavy duty for exhaust work do you? I'm not trying to weld 1/4" steel plate or anything.

As for you're injectors, yes 1 and 4 are way out of spec so they'll need to be replaced. The reason they are different colors is for 2 reasons. First, different model years used different colors and different brands (i.e. JECS, Bosch, Venom, etc.) use different colors. Stock TT injectors are 370cc and interchange with some other cars, so someone could have swapped out bad ones with used ones from other model cars, etc. Second, the injector color changes after a while from heat cycling. So if you pop in a brand new purple/blue injector after a while it will look more pink/light blue. There might be a guide to the colors somewhere but I don't know them offhand. Is your car upgraded at all? Like bigger turbos, etc? If so, you might have bigger than stock injectors, such as 555cc or something. If it's stock besides the intake and exhaust them you probably have regular 370cc ones.

As for the low compression (assuming the first compression test was accurate), the injector wouldn't be the cause of this. Try doing it again and post the numbers up

denraweb
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:43 am
Car: 1992 300ZX Twin Turbo

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t.mcginley.jr wrote:
It definitely comes in handy lol. Plus it's pretty fun. Only thing that sucks is equipment is expensive. Decent welder, helmet(s), wire, cut off saw(s)/grinder(s), all the little cleaning/marking accessories, etc. But well worth it and will pay for itself if you use it enough/do work for other people once you get good at it.
Yeah I was seriously thinking about getting a used one off craigslist just to try and learn. You don't need anything real heavy duty for exhaust work do you? I'm not trying to weld 1/4" steel plate or anything.

As for you're injectors, yes 1 and 4 are way out of spec so they'll need to be replaced. The reason they are different colors is for 2 reasons. First, different model years used different colors and different brands (i.e. JECS, Bosch, Venom, etc.) use different colors. Stock TT injectors are 370cc and interchange with some other cars, so someone could have swapped out bad ones with used ones from other model cars, etc. Second, the injector color changes after a while from heat cycling. So if you pop in a brand new purple/blue injector after a while it will look more pink/light blue. There might be a guide to the colors somewhere but I don't know them offhand. Is your car upgraded at all? Like bigger turbos, etc? If so, you might have bigger than stock injectors, such as 555cc or something. If it's stock besides the intake and exhaust them you probably have regular 370cc ones.

As for the low compression (assuming the first compression test was accurate), the injector wouldn't be the cause of this. Try doing it again and post the numbers up
Yea you can buy a cheap one to learn, but be aware your welds will prolly look like crap lol. Lincoln electric/hobart would be good starters. Cheaper, basic, lighter duty models available which are perfect for doing exhaust. I have a lincoln electric and I can do up to 5/16 steel on a multipass, but I never do that think. Usually just like hobby welding and doing exhaust mainly. I taught myself years ago while watching a TV show on speedchannel where they were building a roll cage for a 4x4 they were building. I can't remember what it was called, but it was with a guy and a girl (bf/gf or husband/wife I think) but they both got s*** done. She did some of the welding which was pretty hot lol, but they kinda gave some quick tips and that was all I needed to get started. I had to learn about speed, voltage, and wire type/thickness on my own and by trial and error. But I find what I mainly do, my wire speed sits at 2 (lincoln electric) and my voltage selector usually a "b" or "c" depending on the thickness of the exhaust. The "A" setting works, but requires slower wire speed as it doesnt get as hot. Makes it harder to weld too. But of course the hotter it gets the more careful you have to be, and the more speed you may need because it will just burn a hole in what you're welding if its too hot. But best way is just get some scrap metal, and a decent welder, and start welding. Eventually you will get it down and be able to make a good, but ugly weld, and then finally you can perfect a good, solid, and pretty weld. My welds used to look like crap, but they held very well. Now they are getting cleaner and nicer. Man you got me talking about welders now lol.

Anywho, yea I want to change all 6 so they are the same, that way I can eliminate that problem, if it doesn't fix my issue. Only thing is 6 injectors are expensive lol. I've been checking on ebay and watching some here and there, but there really isn't a full 6 set for sale at a reasonable price. I don't mind used, as long as they are all within spec. I have a shop locally that can clean them and check spray patterns, etc. My car as far as I and the seller know is all stock. Just a pop charger, blow off valves, and the exhaust with what looks like oem precats, and straight piped the rest of the way.

Besides the CC's being different between the N/A and Turbo injectors, do they physically look different? I saw a set of 4 on ebay, but doesn't say whether they are turbo or not. I'm gonna ask the seller, but would be good to know the differences so I may be able to score a good deal from someone that may not know.

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t.mcginley.jr
Posts: 1547
Joined: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:50 am
Car: 2002 Nissan Altima SE 3.5
1990 Nissan 300ZX NA 2+0
1966 Ford Mustang
Location: New Jersey, USA

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A few people were selling their Lincoln electric welders on craigslist, maybe I should pick one up. I'm pretty mechanically inclined and such so I think I could pick up welding with enough practice. Most of the things I would want to do is exhaust work, nothing special. Thanks for all the tips and tricks!

As for the injectors, yes the NA and TT injectors look the same, just different flow rates. They sell "remanufactured" ones on ebay in sets of 6. They just take used ones and sonic clean them then flow test them to make sure they're in spec. That's what I'm using for my NA. The problem with some aftermarket reman'd ones that have higher flow rates like 555 or 740cc (not new ones) are usually redrilled, which never flow right.


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