Water and air lines...Not stock setup

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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Ok guys i am pretty much done with the intake mods so i am ready to start plumbing her.
I have a aftermarket intake manifold and am ditching the stock oil cooler too. Here is my question for now.
In this picture, are these where the water return lines for the turbo (hard steel lines that have the banjo bolt) will go? i am redoing all this in braided line and getting rid of all this dumb stuff on here. the oem lines where all kinked and broken and some where missing when i got the motor so im trying to double check.

Pics here
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This appears to be in a "loop" if you will. can i cap off the rear most line (or the front one) or does it have to remain in a loop with the turbo returns?



About the AAC/IAC, i am running a throttle body so wouldn't i have to weld a bung on my charge pipe before the throttle body and hook up the AAC to that for it to work correctly, right? On my setup, the AAC bolts directly to the intake manifold. so i was thinking instead of welding a bung on my charge pipe i would just use a small air filter on it.

For the Air regulator i was thinking of welding a -10an bung on the bottom of the manifold and hook up the one side to that and then run another filter on the other side of that...

Pic Here...
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anyone see any problems with that?

thanks guys,
Lee


gawdzilla
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Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2004 11:51 am
Car: none

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for the water, i think i blocked the rear connection. i ran the front to the turbo water outlet. then i ran the other water banjo on the exh side of the block to the turbo water inlet.

i don't remember how the air is routed, but one issue i see with your picture is the hose that says "to intake manifold" goes to the plenum on the stock 26. the plenum is never under vacuum but an intake manifold with single tb like you have will be.

easiest way is to look at the FSM and see where all the oem air connections go. there is a vacuum diagram somewhere in the book. see what needs vacuum+pressure and then see what needs just pressure. then put them appropriately before and after your tb.

also - are you running map? if not you might have a problem with those air filters.

boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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yea i didnt really think about that. seems like i will have to weld a bung to the intercooler piping rather that use filters.. no biggy if thats true.
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boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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sorting out the vac and water lines now... have some questions if anyone is actually looking at this... I plan on running AEM EMS, but would like to get it running on the stock setup first. i do not have the stock MAF so i am going to try and just get it idling without them on OEM ECU... hopefully run MAP with the ems... all of this is contingent on this damn economy though...

Again i am not using the stock oil cooler, i have one in my custom radiator. i have a greddy take off w/ thermostat for that.

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Thanks in advance for any insight.
Lee

boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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oh by the way you can see my build here
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/top ... b26-build/

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gmac708
Posts: 1914
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1970 Datsun 240Z
1972 Datsun 510

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Here is a link to my build at the page where I was hooking up the vacuum hoses and water lines. Mine was totally stock but it might help. I think you got all of them hooked correctly. The heater return inlet you pointed out is also "t" to water line from turbo.

2009-240z-build-t403961-440.html

Looking good, nice work. :bigthumb:

Gord

boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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ok then, if the forward most water port tees into the heater and the turbo what do i do with this one?
Image

boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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for the water return, the only thing i can think of is flow with the thermostat open and close. so maybe i do have to run it in a Tee off the back port as well?

gawdzilla
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The picture "can this be capped?" I believe the answer is yes.

Don't quote me on this because it's been a while, but I think that is for coolant to warm the ITBs when you have them under cold starts. Since you don't, I don't think that is necessary.

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gmac708
Posts: 1914
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 1:59 pm
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1970 Datsun 240Z
1972 Datsun 510

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boostedh23a1 wrote:ok then, if the forward most water port tees into the heater and the turbo what do i do with this one?
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Here is a picture of stock tubing on RB.
Just below the spring for the ITB, you can see a hose coming up from the fitting you are wondering about. From the picture you can see that it "T"'s into the bigger line that wraps around the engine to/for the turbo. That line also heads down to the bigger line that heads forward to the water pump. That would be the inlet for the water pump that bypasses the thermostat (used for heating). My guess is that the water would be able to circulate around from the turbo over to this side. The flow from turbos forward to that other fitting on the other side could not circulate water when the thermostat is closed (no flow through radiator).

So I guess the short answer is the turbos return water goes in two directions and flow depends on thermostat being open or closed. Your fitting "t"s into that rear line. :crazy:

You could probably cap off this line but, I think It would run better when it's really cold / really hot because the manifold would be a more constant temperature with water flowing around it...I think

Gord




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boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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yea thats what i was thinking too

boostedh23a1
Posts: 281
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 1:37 pm
Car: Datsun 240Z
Datsun 280Z
Location: Beaufort, SC

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Here is some progress pics...

Polished the center cover, welded 12an bungs on valve covers (not pictured), welded -10an bung on the bottom of the intake manifold for the air regulator, bead blasted steering rack, rebuilt with new rods and boots, installed the ACZ lower control arms i had on my tube chassis 280z, ran all the plumbing, bent the front oil drain lines so they would fit, and so much more i cant even type now im so tried ;) ... next up fuel lines, and modify this intake manifold so it will clear the fender. i could wack it with a hammer one time on the fender but i think i will take a band saw and cut the manifold 1/2 way though and bend it out then weld it up.

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JeffersonC
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Joined: Wed Aug 06, 2014 9:34 pm
Car: 1991 GTR R32

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Very sorry to bring up an old thread guys but I got a few quick questions. I am doing a real similar build and I was wondering how you ended up routing the turbo water return line? I can see its connected to the water neck, T'd at the turbos and loops around the back. Did you connect it to the T off the thermastat inlet? Did you also connect it to the rear fitting off the lower balance pipe or did you block it off like you were asking?


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