Washed Engine Bay

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qship96
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Today I decided to clean under the hood to remove any remaining salt and general grit from winter driving and to clean the burnt oil stains off the headers since t3 replaced valve cover gaskets last November. I used a can of brake parts cleaner on the headers and a can of Gunk engine cleaner every where else. Looks good, let idle 30 min. to dry, however I see valley under plenum is still like a swimming pool-should I just let it evaporate on its own?


captainluigi
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Well thats how mine drys. I wash the engine bay about every three months. I also have cleaned & applied dielectric grease @ all connections.

maxnix
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Actually Harbor freight has a little pump to get that fluid out. I know Antifreeze is not good for the KS.

Maybe a baster with brake hose?

oldmako
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Run that mother on the highway for a half an hour. Drive insanely fast.....as fast as you can get away with. Due to the mysterious aerodynamic miracles associated with the Bernouli principle, speeds in excess of 120 mph force life rejuvinating low pressure maxo-oxygen up and into the engine bay and will provide your underplenumness with interstate-aromathrerapy along with waves of absorptive fresh country air. The high EGT's associated with the high RPM will douche your exhaust valves and send a warm caressing bath of hot gas into the stainless exhaust system and will maximize it's life span. The countryside turning into a blur in your periphery will unleash specific internal combustive pheromones from deep with your cerebral cortex and..............

Uh...I usually just stick some paper towels in the little pools, and then go for a spin to the liquor store or circle K for some Bud.

Sorry, for a minute I thought I was Billy Mays doing an infomercial.
Modified by oldmako at 6:26 AM 4/15/2008

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paranoidjack
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Air. Blast it out.

Haitian_King
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qship96 wrote:Today I decided to clean under the hood to remove any remaining salt and general grit from winter driving and to clean the burnt oil stains off the headers since t3 replaced valve cover gaskets last November. I used a can of brake parts cleaner on the headers and a can of Gunk engine cleaner every where else. Looks good, let idle 30 min. to dry, however I see valley under plenum is still like a swimming pool-should I just let it evaporate on its own?
The stuff in the valley, water or antifreeze? I'm thinking of doing the same job as well, and if I can do it myself as opposed to having a detailer do it, why not? What exactly did you do?

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elwesso
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meh just drive it.. I never do anything special, however I wouldnt let it sit down there too long because that could start corrosion on the knock sensor harness.

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lino
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paranoidjack wrote:Air. Blast it out.

NightRiderQ45
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Qship96, man, you are making this more that it's made out to be. If you have a puddle of water, drive it for a bit or go and get a towel to soak up the existing water. Sheesh...

Haitian, you should be albe to do this on your own. I don't know how your motor is step up, but it's fairly easy to do it on the Y33. I usually take mine to car wash, spray the engine cleaner while the car is running, let it sit for about 30sec -1 min, then spray off with the high pressure rinse while the car is running. I don't hold the gun to close anything, maybe keep the nossle 2-3ft. away from electrical parts.

Jump in the car, take it for a spin, let it dry, and then add the shine to it. I love opening up my hood to people because, 9/10 most people don't keep their engines clean. Plus our car have that nice motor cover which is helpful.

Haitian_King
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NightRiderQ45 wrote:Qship96, man, you are making this more that it's made out to be. If you have a puddle of water, drive it for a bit or go and get a towel to soak up the existing water. Sheesh...

Haitian, you should be albe to do this on your own. I don't know how your motor is step up, but it's fairly easy to do it on the Y33. I usually take mine to car wash, spray the engine cleaner while the car is running, let it sit for about 30sec -1 min, then spray off with the high pressure rinse while the car is running. I don't hold the gun to close anything, maybe keep the nossle 2-3ft. away from electrical parts.

Jump in the car, take it for a spin, let it dry, and then add the shine to it. I love opening up my hood to people because, 9/10 most people don't keep their engines clean. Plus our car have that nice motor cover which is helpful.
I'll have to try that. I usually go to the touchless wash. Getting out of the car wouldn't be a great idea there. Next time, I'll go into one of the self-service bays and do the engine. Or I might do that first, then do the rest of the car through touchless.

Anything special you put on the engine to make it shine? A clean VH is a beautiful thing.

qship96
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Pretty hard to get a towel down in the valley of a G50!!!

I would not spray any cleaner on a running motor, as the fan blade would cause the chemicals to get everywhere, including your eyes and all over the exterior paint, ruining your wax job.

I start by warming engine for just a few minutes at idle, then shut car off-you do not want engine HOT,just warm.

Spray the engine cleaning chemical everywhere under hood, use paintbrush to scrub any heavy deposits-close hood and let cook for 10-15 minutes

with garden hose,spray down engine real good to remove grime and all traces of chemical used

start engine,drive around block to dislodge as much water as possible, then let engine idle for 30 minutes in driveway to dry

follow up with towel touchup to accesable areas

I do not apply any "engine shine" or armor-all type dressing underhood, even though it makes it all pretty for a few days, longterm it just attracts dust/dirt and makes the underhood area filthy quicker than when not using it.

NightRiderQ45
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Haitian_King wrote:
I'll have to try that. I usually go to the touchless wash. Getting out of the car wouldn't be a great idea there. Next time, I'll go into one of the self-service bays and do the engine. Or I might do that first, then do the rest of the car through touchless.

Anything special you put on the engine to make it shine? A clean VH is a beautiful thing.
I have a cheap bottle of Armor All that I spray on to a towel and rub on the plastic once it dries up. I mean, that's all that Armor All is good for lol.
qship96 wrote:Pretty hard to get a towel down in the valley of a G50!!!

I would not spray any cleaner on a running motor, as the fan blade would cause the chemicals to get everywhere, including your eyes and all over the exterior paint, ruining your wax job.

I start by warming engine for just a few minutes at idle, then shut car off-you do not want engine HOT,just warm.

Spray the engine cleaning chemical everywhere under hood, use paintbrush to scrub any heavy deposits-close hood and let cook for 10-15 minutes

with garden hose,spray down engine real good to remove grime and all traces of chemical used
LOL. I wouldn't spray it on the fan blade either...I mean, we are cleaning the motor. We have covers for our fan blades on the Y33 so I don't have to worry about chemicals spraying in my eyes

You know what, I did your same exact method on my last car and my car would start for another 30 minutes. I went to the detail shop, and that's where they told me to keep the car running while cleaning and I haven't had any issue doing it that way for the past 5 years. I clean my motor first, so I don't have the issue with messing up my wax job.

Anywho, what ever works best for us is always a....

Haitian_King
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qship96 wrote:Pretty hard to get a towel down in the valley of a G50!!!

I would not spray any cleaner on a running motor, as the fan blade would cause the chemicals to get everywhere, including your eyes and all over the exterior paint, ruining your wax job.

I start by warming engine for just a few minutes at idle, then shut car off-you do not want engine HOT,just warm.

Spray the engine cleaning chemical everywhere under hood, use paintbrush to scrub any heavy deposits-close hood and let cook for 10-15 minutes

with garden hose,spray down engine real good to remove grime and all traces of chemical used

start engine,drive around block to dislodge as much water as possible, then let engine idle for 30 minutes in driveway to dry

follow up with towel touchup to accesable areas

I do not apply any "engine shine" or armor-all type dressing underhood, even though it makes it all pretty for a few days, longterm it just attracts dust/dirt and makes the underhood area filthy quicker than when not using it.
Ok. I'm a little hesitant to use my garden hose under the hood. I'm afraid of hitting any electrical components/fuses.

BG makes a good engine cleaner/degreaser right?
NightRiderQ45 wrote:
I have a cheap bottle of Armor All that I spray on to a towel and rub on the plastic once it dries up. I mean, that's all that Armor All is good for lol.

LOL. I wouldn't spray it on the fan blade either...I mean, we are cleaning the motor. We have covers for our fan blades on the Y33 so I don't have to worry about chemicals spraying in my eyes

You know what, I did your same exact method on my last car and my car would start for another 30 minutes. I went to the detail shop, and that's where they told me to keep the car running while cleaning and I haven't had any issue doing it that way for the past 5 years. I clean my motor first, so I don't have the issue with messing up my wax job.

Anywho, what ever works best for us is always a....
I think both methods are sound, and I'm considering a combination of the two.

NightRiderQ45
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Simple Green degreaser is an great otc product that you can purchase. I usually just use the engine cleaner that's at the wash bay. I'm afraid of purchasing products, because I don't want to use something that will etch the alluminum then I will be pissed. I've noticed the degreased at the wash bay is safe for the alluminum under the hood.

qship96
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Be careful with the simple Green as it certainly will pit and etch the aluminum parts, especially if they are hot. Go to your local autozone, Advance, Poopboys,etc they all carry cans of engine cleaner that cost $ 2-4 per can- I used Gunk brand { they have been around since the dark ages}Plenty of choices of different brands on the shelf-gunk just works for me and makes the car stink real good for a few days!!!!

Victor
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So what do you guys do, let the greasy water drain onto your driveway or onto the street? You should really clean your engine at a car wash that has the proper equipment to filter the toxic waste out of the water before they put it into the sewers.As for Armor all, it will end up making all the rubber sticky. Someone ruined the interior of a G20 I had by coating everything with armor all. Took me a long time to get all that sticky residue off. Used car dealers will also coat the whole engine with armor all to hide the leaks.

qship96
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I clean the engine in the street in front of house-wet street down real well before spraying detergent on motor so anything that drips doesnt soak into asphalt-then wash car in same spot when done and all that soap washes the crap off the street real well.

I dont like engine cleaning at the quarter wash bays because I dont like to use high pressure for the rinse-garden hose is easier to control water flow to keep electrical connections from getting water blasted .Also I dont like to do it with hot motor, just luke warm from a few minutes run at idle beforehand-and full handwash afterwards to remove any overspray of chemicals, which is easier to do correctly at home

Forgot to mention, my turbine wheels had some stubborn black gook between the vanes that resisted all wheel cleaners and brushes.....tried a magic eraser and they came off easier than a hookers pants-

Haitian_King
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qship96 wrote:Be careful with the simple Green as it certainly will pit and etch the aluminum parts, especially if they are hot. Go to your local autozone, Advance, Poopboys,etc they all carry cans of engine cleaner that cost $ 2-4 per can- I used Gunk brand { they have been around since the dark ages}Plenty of choices of different brands on the shelf-gunk just works for me and makes the car stink real good for a few days!!!!
Hm. My VH isn't "too" bad. I think the Gunk will do fine. Would you mind posting before/after pictures?

Here's a picture of mine that I took a while ago, pre-guide job.



Sorry for the phone camera pic.

qship96
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I dont have a digital camera, just an old school 35mm slr!Your engine looks good, the $3 can of Gunk is all you would need

PS- looks like its time for you to replace brake and traction fluids as they look dark in your photos.

Haitian_King
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qship96 wrote:I dont have a digital camera, just an old school 35mm slr!Your engine looks good, the $3 can of Gunk is all you would need

PS- looks like its time for you to replace brake and traction fluids as they look dark in your photos.
Thanks for the tip. I had an inkling that they weren't kosher, but I wasn't noticing any negative effects and I was unsure about color.

I'll definitely get those done. Should I do P/S as well? I think a BG shop can do all that right?
qship96 wrote:I clean the engine in the street in front of house-wet street down real well before spraying detergent on motor so anything that drips doesnt soak into asphalt-then wash car in same spot when done and all that soap washes the crap off the street real well.

I dont like engine cleaning at the quarter wash bays because I dont like to use high pressure for the rinse-garden hose is easier to control water flow to keep electrical connections from getting water blasted .Also I dont like to do it with hot motor, just luke warm from a few minutes run at idle beforehand-and full handwash afterwards to remove any overspray of chemicals, which is easier to do correctly at home

Forgot to mention, my turbine wheels had some stubborn black gook between the vanes that resisted all wheel cleaners and brushes.....tried a magic eraser and they came off easier than a hookers pants-
Those magic erasers are a Godsend. Earlier today, I was with a friend of mine running errands. She was driving her ML 320. She went to park in front of her apartment and apparently miscalculated her turning radius. Her passenger side bumper scraped the hell out of the rear driver's side bumper of a white Highlander. I told her not to panic and to check her bumper. I was able to wipe most of the white paint/dirt off of her champagne bumper, but there were still some white streaks. She's freaking out and I remembered that she had just bought a box of Magic Erasers. I told her to break one out and have at the bumper. She didn't have any water, she had me pour some of my Monster Energy drink on the eraser. Miraculously, it worked very well and her bumper looks as if nothing ever happened. Can't say the same for the Highlander. We're hoping the owner doesn't notice.

We rinsed the residual energy drink off of the bumper as it contained sugar and I was unsure of the effect on the paint. Plus it made it sticky.

I'm going to get a bunch of magic erasers for my Q. Forget microfibers. Magic erasers and chamois for me.

NightRiderQ45
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Victor wrote:So what do you guys do, let the greasy water drain onto your driveway or onto the street? You should really clean your engine at a car wash that has the proper equipment to filter the toxic waste out of the water before they put it into the sewers.As for Armor all, it will end up making all the rubber sticky. Someone ruined the interior of a G20 I had by coating everything with armor all. Took me a long time to get all that sticky residue off. Used car dealers will also coat the whole engine with armor all to hide the leaks.
I stated that I did take my car to the car wash... . Also, I never stated that I use Armor All for my interior...I stated that it was only good for my engine use. I don't care what used car dealers use to coat whatever...I'm speaking about what I use for my car, by the way which doesn't have any leaks. To each its own, but I like mine to have some type of shine to it. Yes, it does collect dust, (so does the outside of your car) but hell, I was my car every week so it doesn't matter.

captainluigi
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King, do the right thing. Leave a note about what happened. Reverse the circumstance and act accordingly.

KARMA NEVER SLEEPS

ARRANGER
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I am definitely in the minority or washing a Q's engine. No water hoses or car washes for my engine. I am fearful of what may happen to the old sensitive electrical components a few years down the road due to exposure to unnessary moisture. You guys who wash the engines are braver than I.

Haitian_King
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captainluigi wrote:King, do the right thing. Leave a note about what happened. Reverse the circumstance and act accordingly.

KARMA NEVER SLEEPS
I wasn't driving. Should I be the one to leave a note?

The Highlander belongs to a friend of ours. But said friend is one of those types that would attempt to make my other friend (who drove) pay for a whole new bumper and take her to court for refusing. At the same time, spread vicious rumors about her as well. She's also the type to constantly bring it up and hold it over your head. "Remember the time you smashed into my car and I let it slide?"

I'm not looking forward to it.

AlabamaDan
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qship96 wrote:Today I decided to clean under the hood to remove any remaining salt and general grit from winter driving and to clean the burnt oil stains off the headers since t3 replaced valve cover gaskets last November. I used a can of brake parts cleaner on the headers and a can of Gunk engine cleaner every where else. Looks good, let idle 30 min. to dry, however I see valley under plenum is still like a swimming pool-should I just let it evaporate on its own?

dodiho
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Dan---this is Doug in Texas--do u still have the traction control module from your wrecked '97? From all the research-I think it will work on my '99...Thanks,Doug

AlabamaDan
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You're confusing me with someone else man. The parts cars my local JU had was only the older ones. They've got a 90 right now, but I don't have time to pull anything.

dodiho
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Sorry Dan.......mea culpa...old age has set in--was looking for Bullett Andy-and found him!

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Haitian_King wrote:The Highlander belongs to a friend of ours. But said friend is one of those types that would attempt to make my other friend (who drove) pay for a whole new bumper and take her to court for refusing. At the same time, spread vicious rumors about her as well. She's also the type to constantly bring it up and hold it over your head. "Remember the time you smashed into my car and I let it slide?"

I'm not looking forward to it.
Further evidence that women can't freaking drive! (I'm married, I know)

You're in a tight spot. Hopefully your friend who was driving will do the right thing... it's just wrong to screw up someone's stuff and then not 'fess up and fix it. Is the highlander a candidate for the magic eraser and energy drink fix as well?

Heath

Haitian_King
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Q451990 wrote:
Further evidence that women can't freaking drive! (I'm married, I know)

You're in a tight spot. Hopefully your friend who was driving will do the right thing... it's just wrong to screw up someone's stuff and then not 'fess up and fix it. Is the highlander a candidate for the magic eraser and energy drink fix as well?

Heath
It was ages ago, but we did try. The Highlander just didn't want to cooperate. What's weird is that I spent tonight with the owner of the Highlander and she brought it up. She wondered aloud if she had been hit because she couldn't remember backing up into anything. Sensing a trap, I kept mum.

Not my business. Now if it was my Q? Heads would have rolled.


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