VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

[wantz87]

i dont mean to be a naysayer, but theres a company here in san dimas called "vqswap.com". all they do is make a bolt in swap for the vq30/vq35 with the 6 speed. they have bolt in crossmembers, shifter adaptors, ecu, and harnesses as well as all the lil parts minus the y pipe. serious props to anyone doing it on their own tho bro.

[gadget1382]

Issues with that are with the quality of the workmanship and delivery time.

That, and the customisation to the way that S13 is setup.

[xsvfrce]

Is there a big difference in the wiring harness between the AT and the MT. I know the ECU's are different.

I just picked up a VQ35de for the swap into an S13 and i am trying to get all the bits to go along with the swap. The motor I bought came with the harness from a AT and I'm hoping it will work.

[SpecDRacing]

Soravia,

I notice you post alot on here. Good to see that. My trans mount is correct. I welded 1/4" cold steel to it to lengthen it, then drilled the forward most holes through the origional ones in the braket. The steel bars come forward another 4-5" (cant remember, been awhile) and drilled those so the front bolt would fit.

I see someone putting a VQ30DET setup in...wicked!

I am working on a new project now. I havent finished the 240sx body work, but this one is a little more straight forward.

I have a 1994 Sentra 4 door (yes, four door). I'm putting the VQ35DE in that complete with 6 speed. This will be my other daily driver. So, when thats done, I'll be able to post the VQ fitment into both chassis. Oh, and the hood clears on the Sentra.

Later gang.

[gadget1382]

Welcome back. Been missing your posts after getting through the last 19 pages :p

The thing i was hoping to ask you; is there a way, seeing the Cima/Cedric/Leopard only came out with an Auto, of tricking the ECU to make it happy with a Manual bolted up to it?

[gadget1382]

One other thing... if you could point me in the right direction for a Wiring diagram that would be most appreciated. As the VQ30det was never Aus delivered i'm finding it very hard to track down that kinda info. I havent found a Japanese wiring diagram yet, otherwise i'd have it sent to be translated :p

[SpecDRacing]

You'll run into problems with the ECM (auto) looking for inputs from the transmission. You may.....may....be able to pull a TCM from an older maxima (late 90's early 00's), park/nuetral switch and wire those up so that the ECM thinks its in nuetral all the time. Downside is the caluclated load value will make it hard to keep a solid deceleration idle, which will cause some stumbling and stalling when you slow down. You might try just running the manual transmission ECM from the Maxima (again, late 90's to 01) then installing a boot timing retard module to the ignition signal, in order to keep the timing advance from poping your pistons. You would need all the associated parts with that ECM setup as well (flywheel with toothring, etc.). You've got a little bit to figure out. I can't promise I'll come up with a good answer for you, but I can try. I dont get much time on here anymore, working way too much. I would first try to get it running, A/T plugs left hanging off and all. If it doesnt run, then try to figure it out. That way you can work backwards to find the problem, rather than heading into this blind. (You can't see a pothole around the curve untill after you've hit the damn thing).

[SpecDRacing]

$5000.00 The red car from this thread is up for sale. The owner is ready to sell it. This is as cheap as I think it can be. It is a 1993 hatch. It has a VQ35DE installed but will need more attention to get into perfect shape. It comes with the 04 and 06 ECM's. The transmission is grinding in third as well as 4th. It will need another transmission, or rebuilding (again..lol). It already has an LSD installed and is otherwise in good shape. The speedo was never hooked up, but the Dakota Digital Converter comes with the car, just needs to be installed.

$5000.00 is cheap, as I know he has more than that in it. They dont use this car, at all. Sits in the driveway, so he would rather let it go to someone who enjoys them.

Serious replys only. If you have the cash, and are interested in buying this car, post on here, then I will contact you.

Thanks all!

[gadget1382]

You'll run into problems with the ECM (auto) looking for inputs from the transmission. You may.....may....be able to pull a TCM from an older maxima (late 90's early 00's), park/nuetral switch and wire those up so that the ECM thinks its in nuetral all the time. Downside is the caluclated load value will make it hard to keep a solid deceleration idle, which will cause some stumbling and stalling when you slow down. You might try just running the manual transmission ECM from the Maxima (again, late 90's to 01) then installing a boot timing retard module to the ignition signal, in order to keep the timing advance from poping your pistons. You would need all the associated parts with that ECM setup as well (flywheel with toothring, etc.). You've got a little bit to figure out. I can't promise I'll come up with a good answer for you, but I can try. I dont get much time on here anymore, working way too much. I would first try to get it running, A/T plugs left hanging off and all. If it doesnt run, then try to figure it out. That way you can work backwards to find the problem, rather than heading into this blind. (You can't see a pothole around the curve untill after you've hit the damn thing).

Thanks mate. Well the plan was to get it running on the engine stand, rather crudely anyway. I know of people using Nistune and being successful with auto ECU's in Manual converted cars. But wasnt sure what imputs it took from the Auto and Auto ECU.

If just Neutral and Park along with speed, it should be ok... but rather not go in blindly knowing what could be around the corner :p

Do you have access to or know of places that might have VQ30det wiring info?

[SpecDRacing]

Sorry, I don't. I know nissan likes to stick with a base pinout for their ECM's. Like the 350Z, Altima V6, Maxima, G35 and FX35 all have the same pinouts on the ECM, the differences are in little things like EGR, Exhaust valve timing, VIAS etc. So, if you can find a wiring diagram for the VQ30DE, it might possibly be enough to get you going. The boost solenoid obviously won't be shown, but the crank, cam and injector circuits should all be similar. You will need to do some continuity tests on the wiring to make sure of this. Check the signal wires from the sensors, not the power wires. Probe the BACK of the ecm connector (harness side) and the back of the sensor/injector/coil connector as to not damage the pin fitment. Make sure terminal number X on the ECM indeed runs to injector X, and cross reference that with the VQ30DE wiring diagram. What's left will be turbo related. You should have the big grey connector (or blue) with a 10mm bolt through it to the ECM.

[gadget1382]

Yup. Got that.

It also has another connector that i assume is for the Auto ECM. I'm hoping that i can just leave this as is.

I have alot of experiance with seperating and wire tracing. I have an S12 (Gazelle) with an added S13 Auto wiring loom, running a CA18det and S13 Auto... that took a couple of months in the front room each night. :s But hey, she runs.

I just had the advantage of a full S12 and S13 Workshop Manual. I just cant for the life of me find one for anything that had a VQ30det. Let alone one in English. Ah well, the search continues. Finding a VQ30de one might be easier, but still need to track that down.

[SpecDRacing]

NISMO240R

Very, very wicked. Love it, looks sick! Here's the secret to getting this thing running.

Power wires. Make sure all Ignition power to the ECM is definately IGN from the car. Make sure your back up power is on all the time. Wire in potentiometers (tps or whatever) to where the EVAP sensor should be, Refriegerant sensor and P/S sensor. Power the BCM as shown in the Service manual. Use a LED for the security light with a diode and wire it in the right way. Omit junk wires for ease of installation. Keep solid grounds. Make sure your NATS amp is plugged in. Make sure the Key matches the year of the ECM (not the BCM, Motor, etc.). DO NOT ALLOW YOUR BATTERY CRANKING VOLTAGE TO DROP BELOW 9V. There is a BIG reason for this. Durring this swap, you have to wire in a throttle relay like it is in the service manual (except its located in the IPDM-ER). If the cranking voltage drops below 9 volts, you will go into fail safe (not always, but it can happen). This will not be sufficient voltage to allow the throttle plate to move durring testing by the ECM and will cause a ETC Motor code, which is a fail safe code. So have a good battery.

There it is folks, the simplicity of the swap. It's all in the ESM. It takes a lot of time to wire, and a lot of patience, but if done right, will work.

04 ECM will have a idle with a 100% calculated load value, which will stall durring heavy deceleration without a little help from blipping the gas pedal. 06 ECM will idle high, but will not stall...but will also not advance the intake timing. My suggestion, send the 06 ECM to technosqaure, tell them what you're doing and have it mapped so that it will advance anyway (even though it shouldnt because the exhaust valve timing isn't hooked up).

Back to more fun. My latest project is just beginning. I cant post it all up on this thread, as it does not pertain to a S chassis car, but I felt you guys might like to see it anyway.



Yeap, thats my $500.00 beater. Even runs and drives. Sorta...the way reverse engages, it seams as though a teflon seal has failed causing a loss of pressure to the reverse clutch....but rev it up and she bangs into gear! Or, she did......but you guys all know me...and all that isn't even in the car anymore!



Yes, the hood is shut. No fiberglass, washers or anything. Whats under it fits, and will stay that way when the swap is actually performed/completed.



So there she sits. On mock up motor mounts and all. Not bolted in, but where it will be bolted in. The B15 guys have been doing this for a little while. I hear its pretty fast that way. So I figure I'll do it in a lighter car, complete with 4 doors to really confuse anyone who sees it go. It's getting a VQ35DE (sorry, staying stock), Sentra Spec V 6 speed (factory helical diff...thats awesome!), VQ35DE manual trans bellhousing, B15 front hubs/spindles, we hope the B15 axles will fit, but if not, we'll find what will, Altima front lowering springs and Sentra rear lowering springs. Tokico shocks that will match my bound/rebound requirements and hopefully some Brembo brakes. But the steel 14" wheels...well, they gotta go (darn) but some equally cheezy wheels will be installed in their plate. Maybe some aerospeed wheels with hub caps!!!

Later gang!
Modified by SpecDRacing at 5:53 PM 9/11/2008

[SpecDRacing]

So you're in AUS right? I have to say, you guys down there...dont know if its in the sand or what, but I gotta say, I have researched alot of Nissan swaps and most of the craziest one's come from there. I was going to go the RB30DETT route prior to the VQ. I found a Comodore engine with decent miles/kilometeres out of a place near Sydney for cheap, like $350 american, with everything on it. But then I got a free VQ, and trans, and convinced myself that RB parts are too hard to find here to deal with. In the end, I'm pretty happy. I daily drive my VQ/S13, it gets good gas mileage (27 highway), its pretty fast, and its different. The RB30DETT though....oh man, can those things make power!!!!! I did have a funny experience when I called to a junk yard in AUS. The clerk says "You're from the US, and you're not building a Honda???" He laughed...."Bout time someone figured out what a REAL engine is....Why all those kids waste all that time and money on those Hondas?" I laughed and agreed. That was cool though.

[SpecDRacing]

One more thing GADGET1382, I don't know if you have a LSD in your S12, but you can use the Infiniti M30 rear (not sure what that is in AUS). Its not as strong as the R200s from the S13's and up, and it acts more as a locker than an actual limited slip, but it fits. We installed one into my buddies S12 VG30DE hatch. Not many S12 guys know that, but the M30 is a limited slip car, and it can be swapped. Remove the actual differential from the housing, swap the ring gear from your origional to the M30 unit and put it in with the bearing races from the M30 and shims from the S12.

[gadget1382]

Yes mate, I have a Torsen LSD. They had made a new batch of them for the Datto guys. Mine is an early S12 with the live/solid axle. So has a H190. The Torsen works a treat!

I'll pass that info on to the other S12 owners though.. Thanks!

[gadget1382]

Y

So you're in AUS right? I have to say, you guys down there...dont know if its in the sand or what, but I gotta say, I have researched alot of Nissan swaps and most of the craziest one's come from there. I was going to go the RB30DETT route prior to the VQ. I found a Comodore engine with decent miles/kilometeres out of a place near Sydney for cheap, like $350 american, with everything on it. But then I got a free VQ, and trans, and convinced myself that RB parts are too hard to find here to deal with. In the end, I'm pretty happy. I daily drive my VQ/S13, it gets good gas mileage (27 highway), its pretty fast, and its different. The RB30DETT though....oh man, can those things make power!!!!! I did have a funny experience when I called to a junk yard in AUS. The clerk says "You're from the US, and you're not building a Honda???" He laughed...."Bout time someone figured out what a REAL engine is....Why all those kids waste all that time and money on those Hondas?" I laughed and agreed. That was cool though.

Yup, i'm form Aus. :p

I agree there's some pretty crazy combo's out there. RB's we seem to have developed well and get a fair bit out of them. Unfortunatly the aftermarket support for the Anything other than a Ford or Holden is limited.

So the fact that Holden used a Nissan motor (the RB30e and RB30et) for a production run meant it opend the flood gates for parts. The fact that the DE and DET heads bolt onto the RB30 blocks just mean that they have the potential to be a real Animal!

I'm trying to be a pioneer and go down the VQ rout. As i can see that IS the future.

I've been involved in the Silvia clubs here and S12 clubs world wide. (Club-S12, although US and Can, have been a great help) So with all research i can put my engineering degree to use and come up with the best compromise. There is no one right answer for a setup though, learnt that a long time ago.

It's annoying, APS in Aus developed the 350Z TT system. Yet, they sell it cheaper and individually over there! They only sell it as an install here. A real pain, as i'd just like the kit to then put certain components on the VQ30det. to make it VQ30det+T

Anywho... the VQ is a great block and i just wanna get an Alloy Twin turbo V6 into my little S12... which is going to be a wide body ute... Tentatively called a Gazute :p :lol:

Here's the plan...http://www.aus12.org/index.php...azute

[gregfarz78]

Nice choice of VQ35 into a sentra the guy I bought my s13 from did the first VQ35 swap into a spec v he's been doing them for years now, guys are running 12s with a few bolt ons

[s13_350sx]

hi. i have stumbled across your vq s13 project on the nico forums. i too am performing this swap. im a nissan tech in california. i pretty much have all the stuff and im getting ready to fit the new engine and trans. here are my questions. by the way i am using an 06 350z engine and mt trans and with 06 harnesses and 06 ecm/bcm. ok, do i need a dash harness or can i just use some harness conectors for the throttle pedal position sensor and combination meter and make my own "mini harness"??? what combination meter did you use? i remember you said you didnt use the z meter cause then you would also need the meter and ac amp and that could cause more can problems. and 1 more, i need a drive shaft for a g35 sedan mt right? are there any other drive shafts that i could use, i kow they have to be modified with the 240 drive shaft. thank you so much for any input you have! you do awsome work!!!

[ThuG LyFe]

damn that VQ sentra will be AWESOME!

[s13_350sx]

here it is. nothing special yet.

Modified by s13_350sx at 11:35 PM 9/14/2008

Modified by s13_350sx at 9:22 PM 9/19/2008

Modified by s13_350sx at 9:23 PM 9/19/2008
Modified by s13_350sx at 9:26 PM 9/19/2008

[s13_350sx]

here are the custom "hockey puck" motor mounts.

[s13_350sx]

any new progress on the sentra?

[SpecDRacing]

Hopefully will have the crossmember welded up today. I will still need to finish the front bolt holes in the radiator support. Basically, we are drilling new front bolt holes in the crossmember. The holes will be drilled while the crossmember is positioned where it will need to be in the car. The holes will pass through the member and radiator support. Then, we remove the crossmember and install steel tubing to the holes (for support). The tubing will get welded on the top side, then ground down smooth. The same for the bottom of the radiator support as well. Finally, we bolt the crossmemeber in, with the nuts being on top of the radiator support and weld them into place. Now we can remove our bolts without having to cram a wrench in on top of the radiator support when a radiator and condensor are all in place. Hopefully after the welding and a good paint job, the crossmember will look factory.

[nstabl]

selling an sr?

[SpecDRacing]

No, why would you ask? I am not a big fan of the SR. Its a powerful little 4 cylander, but they are bad about blowing head gaskets and most of them have a ton of miles on them by now. Don't let the importers fool you.....Japan has NO laws about how many miles a car can have on it. Japan has NO date at which the car must go to a junk yard. Most (95%) of the engines imported from Japan have well over 200,000 kilometers on them (120,000 miles). Ever noticed the timing belt sticker on a JDM engine??? Don't think they are loaded with cash, more than likely, it was just a good customer who actualy had the belt replaced....which would be at 100,000 kilometers or 60,000 miles. I have personally seen whole containers arrive with nothing but 200K plus kilometer clips on them. Any JDM enging bought, it is highly recommended it be rebuilt or atleast thoroughly inspected prior to installation.

Wow, enough on that.

MODERATORS----- I am SORRY for posting the sentra again on this thread, I promise I will make a completely new thread and post the build up once it's completed. I am only posting here to show the progress for one who asked.

Someone asked how the Sentra is comming. Here's the latest pics. The Maxima modified cross member is 90% complete and a test fit of the engine shows good signs of correct fitment. I will create a new thread in the Sentra forums tonight.



The front of this cross member was shortened by several inches. I drilled through the member and radiator suport. Tubes will be welded in through the radiator support to stiffen it, then nuts welded on top for the bolts to thread in to. The crossmember itself will get a second layer of sheet steel where the cuts marks are. The holes will then be drilled through from the top to complete the member.



This is the top of the back of the member where it passes under the steering column. My welds might not be a row of nickels, but this will sure hold.



A view of the rear from the transmission side.



Underneath shot of the test fit.



Oil pan clearance is good. The member will have bushings between it and the radiator support and rear rack support. This will drop the driveline down enough for the axles to have a better angle to the wheels (not so sharp). Also, this will give me back my hood clearance (1" is all I need) and will allow the transmission to be serviceable without removing the engine. All good things from a maintenance stand point.



Here it is from up top. Good location, but its tight. The radiator will be very close. Im making custom headers for it, and the front one will have a heat shield to keep the radiator efficiency up.

That's it on this forum for the Sentra build. Time to move it to where it belongs...in the Sentra Forum!!!! Im not done with 240sx's though, so don't think Im switch hitting here! Just taking a little break to build something with "what the hell?" written all over it.

[SpecDRacing]

zer...id=53

This is the link to the Sentra thead if anyone is interested. Here is where the posts about that car its build up, questions and ideas need to be posted.

[s13_350sx]

Very nice build!!! how do you have time to do all this at work and still make hours? i havent been able to work on mine this week as i am at GT-R school here in pleasanton but here is what i have so far. still need and engine control harness and ecm to fire it up and exhaust system and drive shaft to complete the project.

















Modified by s13_350sx at 10:40 PM 9/24/2008

Modified by s13_350sx at 10:43 PM 9/24/2008
Modified by s13_350sx at 10:48 PM 9/24/2008

[gadget1382]

Damn the links dont work for me

What's GT-R training like? Is it like an apprentiship that every man and his dog wants to do, yet only the select smart loyal few are chosen?

[s13_350sx]

ok i got it all fixed. the pics are working now. gadget1382, basically it is like this, all gtr dealers have to have at least 1 specially trained gtr tech. you have to be a nissan master tech to be a gtr tech and you have to be an ase master tech to be a nissan master tech. the shop has to be certified also which requires a special hoist, alignment rack, tire machine, wheel balancer, and nitrogen fill station. you have to be at the top of your game because this vehicle has some very advanced technology. the class also requires a pre test to get enrolled and post test to be certified. i am the 2nd gtr tech at my shop, the first one is a female and let me tell you, dont let the female thing fool you, if she cant fix it than we all have problems! lol! any way, thats how it is. i considerate an honer to be able to work on and drive these cars. i hope that answers all your questions about that.

[gadget1382]

Thought that might be the case.

Thanks for fixing the images. Looks like some pro works been done.

Oh and i never assume that a girl in a mechanics shop knows little after dealing with a few at a number of car meets and mechanics. I've was shown up a couple of times too many.