VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

[VQ30DET S13]

That's a better idea than pulling the engine forward like the Subbies.

yes sir!

You'll probably have to redo the metal pipes under the dash and lose some HAVC pipes.

HAVC? Are you talking about the heater stuff? If so, I don't have to worry about that because the car is completely stripped. I have enough room so I don't have to worry about the steel tubing under the dash.

Any pics for the DET manifold?

I'll take some later tonight and send them to you via PM. Sound good? I have to go replace a broken shift frk in my maxima...

[Soravia]

How do you have TWO oil fillers?

[VQ30DET S13]

How do you have TWO oil fillers?

lol, I hoped that somebody would notice that. I cut the one off of the driver side and put it on the passenger side to accommodate for the 00VI.

[Soravia]

A JB Weld job weld done?

If it works, it works.

I'd prefer works that doesn't involve cutting the hood. That's a lot of loss in hood strength and also looks like a drag car.

Not really sure if the front tip of the VQ will clear the slope of the hood though.

You have pics of the ebay header mods? I'm trying to lower the engine as much as possible and the headers are being an issue.

[VQ30DET S13]

anyone have pics to compare between Maxima A32/A33 starter and Z33 starter?I'm thinking of using Maxima flywheel with a throwout bearing to make it easier on the flywheel+Sensor ring issue. Stock Z33 flywheel cannot be re-surfaced and is too heavy. Aftermarket Z33 flywheels don't really take the speed ring from Maxima too well. (unless they're about $600)

Thanks

The maxima starter is quite a bit different than the z33 starter, but either flywheel can be used. The 350z flywheel and maxima flywheel that fidanza makes have the same part number, so I'm assuming that one could use a fidanza flywheel for a VQ maxima and bolt a 350z clutch to it. 350z's have better/more clutches available and if you were to use the maxima clutch, you'd need a TO bearing spacer. IIRC

[VQ30DET S13]

A JB Weld job weld done?

If it works, it works.

No it's not welded yet, it's just sitting there. I thought about using jb weld, but I think that I'm going to have a friend of mine weld it. I can weld steel, but not aluminum.

I'd prefer works that doesn't involve cutting the hood. That's a lot of loss in hood strength and also looks like a drag car.

Not really sure if the front tip of the VQ will clear the slope of the hood though.

I don't mind cutting out supports on the underside of the hood. My main concern was to retain an oem looking hood, and I could with the DET IM. My engine will definitely clear the hood, it's just the IM that I'm worried about. I'm positive that the 00VI will hit the hood and I'll be forced to make a cowl hood. I'm dealing with the cowl hood idea pretty well because it'll be functional. I'm going to do a V mount intercooler setup....

You have pics of the ebay header mods? I'm trying to lower the engine as much as possible and the headers are being an issue.

I have the headers, and they almost fit the way that they are, but I haven't modified them yet. I'm just going to heat them up with a torch and bend them where they need to be.

[Soravia]

You're going to turbo. Turbo doesn't need Variable intake nor V-Tec. The shorter the intake, the better.

[VQ30DET S13]

You're going to turbo. Turbo doesn't need Variable intake nor V-Tec. The shorter the intake, the better.

It doesn't need it, but I can guarantee you that the variable intake will make the turbo spool quicker and I'll have a lot better off boost low rpm performance and throttle response.

[Soravia]

That's good thinking. I'm more into NA so I like longer runners. I'm actually thinking about using the intake tube as a runner like use by putting the throttle much further up front!

[VQ30DET S13]

That's good thinking. I'm more into NA so I like longer runners. I'm actually thinking about using the intake tube as a runner like use by putting the throttle much further up front!

a general rule of thumb for runners, longer = low rpm power, shorter = high rpm power, in any engine. Runner diameter also plays a major role. It's all about velocity and flow.

I can't figure out how to message you??

Here's some pics of the det upper and middle IM.


Modified by VQ30DET S13 at 4:39 PM 7/1/2008

[Soravia]

you can send me email to [email protected]. We don't have IM on NICO.

[irax]

'm assuming that one could use a fidanza flywheel for a VQ maxima and bolt a 350z clutch to it. 350z's have better/more clutches available and if you were to use the maxima clutch, you'd need a TO bearing spacer. IIRC

The Maxima 3.5 clutch and the 350z clutch are dimensionally the same. There would be no need for a TO spacer.

also the stock Maxima 3.5 clutch is full face unsprung, so if your going drifting this would be a great clutch to use without trying to spend a **** tone of money. It's also good upto 400fwd whp as a lot of guys on maxima.org seem to have no problems using it in there turbo or supercharged maxima.

[Soravia]

Thanks. 3.5 Maxima flywheel still needs its cranck sensor ring replaced to use with VQ30DE/T/D ECU because it is the same ring as the 350Z.

Taking the VQ30DE sensor ring off is easy with only 9 bolts. Attaching them to 3.5 flywheels are difficult. Especially because many aftermarket has them built into the flywheel.

[VQ30DET S13]

The Maxima 3.5 clutch and the 350z clutch are dimensionally the same. There would be no need for a TO spacer.

I was referring to to the Maxima VQ30 clutch and flywheel...

also the stock Maxima 3.5 clutch is full face unsprung, so if your going drifting this would be a great clutch to use without trying to spend a **** tone of money. It's also good upto 400fwd whp as a lot of guys on maxima.org seem to have no problems using it in there turbo or supercharged maxima.

I will be making more than 400whp and I wont be drifting.

I've never heard of any guys on maxima.org successfully using an OEM clutch in a boosted application with anything over 300whp. Please enlighten me.

[nismo240r]

Nice build dude! I'm building a high compression vq35de as well and swapping it into my s14. . .

link:http://www.my350z.com/forum/sh...50513

I was wondering if I could trade some info with you, is your e-mail the best way to get a hold of you?

[nismo240r]

also fits with the hood. . .seibon cf vented. . .



hoodline view. . .

[Soravia]

So, some more new pics. Hope you guys enjoy.



This is the drivers side motor mount. The nasty looking light brown stuff is polyurethane. I applied it to the mounts to stiffen them.



Passenger side mount. One thing I found today, was that the stock 240sx mount will not fit here once the starter is in place. I had to remove 1/2" of the rear of the bracket (where it bolts to the engine mount) to allow for the starter. Then I had to remove nearly 3/4" from the motor mount on the starter side. I cut the upper and lower plates and the fins. Make sure not to cut into the mount itself, or a lot of fluid will come out and the mount will be ruined. After trimming, I applied the polyurethane to this mount as well. All fits much better now.



The trans mount. Simple. Take the stock mount, weld two 2" x 8" pieces of metal to the mounting points, drill the front mount hole through the metal extension and drill the front holes in the extensions. The front holes on the stock trans mount now bolt into the rear holes in the body. The extension should be made of new less that 1/4" cold steel to ensure proper strength. Weld from the top and then through the bottom as well.



53" driveshaft. That was the deminsion I gave the driveshaft shop, but they actually made this unit specific for the car (they took the measurements). You can see the bottom of the LSD at the top of this pic. Also notice the clearance of the transmission once the 240sx trans mount is used. In the other car, I never got to post this pic. Its a tight squeeze in the tunnel, but the trans fits.



For anyone new to installing a J30 diff, the rear cover from the 240sx must be used. Just bolt it on and away you go!



Oil pan clearance is alot better this time around. Notice that it is amlost exactly in line with the crossmember. This was not the case on the last vehicle, as the pan was about 1.5" lower on that car.



Painted up the intake manifold and checked my clearances. Looks like I can install the gaskets and bolt it down!!!

Thanks for following guys! More to see soon!

Could you please post close up pics and measurements of the mounts please?

[PhantomSin01]

This may come off as a stupid question, but which short block would be better for overall clearance? From what I can gather, the FWD block is bettter to use for mounting in the chassis and clearing the sway bar, Is this correct? I'm planning on doing this swap for SCCA Street Mod & Redline Time Attack Modified RWD class so I'll be swapping in a larger diameter front sway bar if possible.

[Soravia]

It's not about FWD or RWD. They're both the height once you use RWD upper oil pan. It's the VQ30DE or less that is shorter than VQ35DE/HR

You can always make a firewall sway bar for clearance. The coolant pipe at the back of the engine WILL need the room from the firewall anyway.

[PhantomSin01]

Sorry, I guess I didn't really clarify what I was asking about. What I meant to ask about was Is there any difference on the bracket mounting locations between the two blocks? I know that there always external variances between FWD and RWD based blocks and I dont want to buy a block I'm going to be fighting the whole time.

[Soravia]

Mounting is straight and easy on the RWD block. You just grab a plate and weld in a support beam. But you can't use bushings because it's only about 4 inches.

FWD needs you to extend the stock mount using metal plates 4 inches forward and 3 inches down. You CAN use bushings on FWD block.

Look at my thread for FWD block mount later on this evening.

[PhantomSin01]

Bushings? You mean the motor mounts?

[Soravia]

There are mounts that are from the cross memeber, those from the engine and the bushing that goes in between.

[Soravia]

The trans mount. Simple. Take the stock mount, weld two 2" x 8" pieces of metal to the mounting points, drill the front mount hole through the metal extension and drill the front holes in the extensions. The front holes on the stock trans mount now bolt into the rear holes in the body. The extension should be made of new less that 1/4" cold steel to ensure proper strength. Weld from the top and then through the bottom as well.

How can you have the trans mount going like that? My S13 240sx trans mount points the tips FORWARD of the chassis. Yours is pointing BACKWARD of the chassis. I know the thing cannot be FLIPPED because of the height difference between left and right sides.

[Soravia]

I think yours is a manual trans mount and mine is an automatic trans mount. That's probably why they point opposite sides.

[gadget1382]

Wouldnt that then make it easier for you? Meaning you dont need to "re-locate" the mount?

It's taken me a week at work to get through all this, but was worth it!



Well done and good luck with your car!

I'm in parts collection mode for the planned VQ30det+t S12 Gazelle...

I have a large portion of it all, but this has inspired me to try n get my hands onto a VQ30det ECU as i already have a loom for it. I joined as the VQ30det was never delivered here.

The VQ Navara Transmission is a great find as they are a hell of alot easier (and cheaper) to come accross than any 350Z stuff down here. So it's now a matter of working out flywheels, starter motors and all that other jazz.



It will be a track only car (at this stage) but would like to make it as user friendly as possible.

Realising the restrictions of the VQ30det intake i think i'll be swapping for a single large throttle body (rather than the tiny twins) But all this S13 chassis stuff is of great use to me, as i've already done a CA18det + S13 auto into my daily S12. I know the subtle differences and can accomodate where needed easily.

Thanks again

[Soravia]

I'd advise using the tiny twins and fabbing the intake chamber to separate them, also use twin intake to the twin throttles to use with twin turbo.

There is no point having twin turbo if your intake is going to be one. The turbos will fight themselves instead of pushing air down the cylinders.

[gadget1382]

Dont know if youve seen the VQ30det... the twin singles are about 35mm (1.4") opperate on a single shaft on a single intake. It's made to sit flatter and wider than a large single throttle. If they were seperate, then i would use that and have twin inlets.

see below

[Soravia]

I think you could use the same USDM Maxima ECU programmed for boost on that engine. not sure if that one has direct injection.

[gadget1382]

It wouldnt supprise me. I figue it wouldnt be that more advanced than the 1999 VQ30de engine.