VQ35DE in S13 in progress.....

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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Soravia
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No, won't work.

The oil cap side is higher.

BTW, Maxima intake SUCKS! It has tight bends and tiny pluem.

I'm fabbing one. Follow my thread.


irax
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do you think it would work if there was a spacer?

mind taking the lower part of the plenum off the heads and see if it still wont bolt up?

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ghettoslide
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Hey, i had the service the manual to the maxima with the vq30 and i was wondering the same thing. It looks like you can unbolt the upper manifold turn it 180 and bolt it back to the lower manifold. I would like to know as well. Don't think i could make my own with out a lot of testing that i can not do. I found a 2004 Altima 3.5 for 500. It was rolled over. As long as the guy can get it from the insurance company it is mine, all mine.

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Soravia
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believe me, already tried it. The only way to fit is to cut and lower the other side's valve cover, and that ain't happening.

Plus, have you seen the pics of that OEM pluem? That thing is ****ty.I'm about 70% done fabbing the intake. Should be done by Thursday.

WTS3
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don't feel like going through 17 pages lol, hows the wiring? and anyone ever find which gauges to use?

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Soravia
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Use 1995-2001 Maxima tech.

gregfarz78
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I have the gauge cluster (unified meter) out of a 350z is it worth using b/c I was thinking about just making a custom autometer instrument cluster.

irax
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so is it true you dont have the cam phasers working?that you still have allot of codes preventing it from running properly?

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CRIPES
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looks great! that motor set is VERY compact, at least it will stay cool... lots of room for turbo install..

SpecDRacing
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CODES::::::

OK....CLEARING THIS UP......

THE CAM PHASING IS NOT WORKING BECUASE OF THE INCORRECT ECM....

MY ECM IS 06, MY ENGINE IS 04, THEREFORE, MY ECM IS LOOKING FOR THE EXHAUST VALVE TIMING SENSORS, WHICH ARE NOT THERE ON THE 04.

I STILL HAVE NOT INSTALLED MY 04 ECM TO CORRECT THIS, BUT I HAVE MONITORED THEM WITH THE CONSULT AND THEY DO WORK WITH THAT COMPUTER.

Hopefully that clears it up for everyone. I havent installed the correct ecm. The one i have is for an auto car, which gives me cam operation, but will not work without a TCM signal on the can lines.

Basically, I havent gotten the correct ecm.

I really wish I didnt have to repeat this again...and again....and again. YES, WITH THE CORRECT ECM, THEY WILL WORK. They do on the red car, and they will on the white car...just been lazy.

SpecDRacing
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The parts needed:

RWD oil pan (for FWD conversion to RWD)Metal lower from eithe FWD or RWD, same part numberBCMECMFront engine room harnessMain engine harnessDash harnessNATS antenna Amp (key cylander optional...im using the stock 240 cyl)NATS key from YEAR OF ECM!!!! (important)Extra relay for Throttle Motor (15amp or greater)Electric Cooling Fan/Relay and thermistor/temp switchCustom Motor Mount BracketsMotor Mounts from a Volvo 240 (ironic huh) and inserts (rubber chunks)Custom Transmission mount bracketFactory 240SX Transmission mountCustom Transmission Shift LinkageG35/350Z Driveshaft custom fit to your vehicle (yokes not available seper)Assorted Radiator and Heater hoses3 Potentiometers (anything from a TPS to a Radio Shack unit will work)

Thats about it, plus a bunch of time and money...and even more if you have a FWD engine that needs a full conversion (exhaust manifolds, intake manifolds, etc.)

The Intakes will not turn 180, the rear stud and the front stud are not in similar locations relevant to the edge of the manifolds.

SpecDRacing
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Before we get too far off here on the gauges....and trust me, I have spent some time trying different aftermarket parts...I will share what I have found out so far.

95% of the afteramarket tachs will not work unless you do an inductive style pickup on No. 1 cylander.

The Z ecm transmits Engine Speed (rpm) and vehicle speed through the CAN lines to the Unified Meter (guages to the rest of the world). Since this is a digital signal, no mater what gauges we put into our cars, they will not read properly unless acompanied by the Unified Meter Control Amp (computer).

This sucks...royaly, because if I install all that, then I will have a MIL that is functional (also transmitted over the CAN lines). Once I have a functioning MIL, and 5 or more codes are stored that pretain to Fail Safe, guess what....I go into Fail Safe. Im sure if I played with it enough, I could get around that as well, but I dont want to find out Im wrong....while on the interstate....or way away from home. 2500 rpm rev limit means very slow creep home.

Maybe we can all figure a better way to get a good reliable tach signal, and make it work with the stock tach.

Any suggestions?

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Soravia
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We need more pics updates.


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BlackDragon328
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I think I can give you a reliable spot to put the tach but i need to check where it is.just to clear things up in case something is different in my car then in yours (I didnt go through all 17 pages of the thread)I have an 03 VQ in an s13 coupe, mildly modified and running an AEM stand alone.I installed my tach off of a green wire that I believe was routed strait to the ECU....but imma double check when I get a hold of my engine and harness (I pulled it out to get a 4.1 stroker...not my choice, I had rod knock)

I love that this engine is going into 240sx's now...its like the rich persons SR20DET nowadays (not meaning to bash on anyone....I have an Sr'd 180sx as well...but VQ swaps cost a buttload of money...)

irax
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lol butt loads of money

so far i have about 4k invested into itand its going to be maybe another 1.5k to finish it

thats not allot, kinda like a built sr but my engine will be legal and thats way worth what ever immediate power difference there is.

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Soravia
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Unless you go super ghetto way like I do with a VQ30DE. I'm targeting it to cost as much as parts only cost for an SR20DET black top.

The super ghetto intake I'm working on is making progress. But it cost a bit more than I wanted, mainly due to large amount of JB weld and tools I had to buy.

gregfarz78
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SpecDRacing wrote:Before we get too far off here on the gauges....and trust me, I have spent some time trying different aftermarket parts...I will share what I have found out so far.

95% of the afteramarket tachs will not work unless you do an inductive style pickup on No. 1 cylander.

The Z ecm transmits Engine Speed (rpm) and vehicle speed through the CAN lines to the Unified Meter (guages to the rest of the world). Since this is a digital signal, no mater what gauges we put into our cars, they will not read properly unless acompanied by the Unified Meter Control Amp (computer).

This sucks...royaly, because if I install all that, then I will have a MIL that is functional (also transmitted over the CAN lines). Once I have a functioning MIL, and 5 or more codes are stored that pretain to Fail Safe, guess what....I go into Fail Safe. Im sure if I played with it enough, I could get around that as well, but I dont want to find out Im wrong....while on the interstate....or way away from home. 2500 rpm rev limit means very slow creep home.

Maybe we can all figure a better way to get a good reliable tach signal, and make it work with the stock tach.

Any suggestions?
Interesting information I don't know much about wiring yet but I'm slowly learning. I did do some research on my350z.com and pretty much found the same info but take a look at this thread and see what you think.

http://www.my350z.com/forum/sh...ignal

you can pull the signal off of the ignition wire signal for cylinder 1 which is off of the ECU harness

jbenz
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bad. ***.

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sauceja
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240SX Hatch

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WOW! Just finally finished reading everything in this thread.

Simply amazing. I am leaving in a few hours to pick up 89 hatch for cheap with clean body and title. This is one of the options I have kept open for a donor engine.I found a newer pathfinder wrecked that I could get fairly cheap since they are gonna crush it anyways this weekend. If I don't use that motor I will be parting it out.

Will be a silent reader until then.

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Soravia
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This doesn't go directly with the thread.

But how would I setup to know when the manual shifter is in neutral. (i.e. no power is transferred from the engine) in a Nissan manual trans car?

I know that the cruise control can sense the position and automatically turn off. I can tell how it can turn of when I step on the clutch or the brakes, but how does it know the neutral?I'm still trying to figure out the wiring for my VQ swap and keep as much functionality as possible.

Thanks

irax
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neutral position safety switch? i don't know if there is one on the vq 6speed but i know there is one on the ka 5speed.

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Soravia
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that's for an auto.

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ghettoslide
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http://www.engineswaptech.com/....aspxjust thought i would drop it for more info. I am sure a lot of you have seen before. I was looking for the white S14 with the vq30det in it, but it must not have been on this site because i could not find it here. The search continues, but those look like the same mounts.

SpecDRacing
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Yes, there is a nuetral switch on the manual transmission (5 and 6 speed for most years). On the 6 speed, there are only two connections, one for the reverse switch (for reverse lights) and the other for the nuetral switch. No more 5th gear switch or any of that junk.

YES! I need to put some pics up dont I?!!!! And, good to say that the 04 ECM is in and my IVT is working properly. Did it make a difference??? Yeap. How much? Well, midrange is definately up (a good bit), idle is crappy compared to the 06 ECM, but top end is definatelly, definatelly better. As in, I can stay in 6th, and do what a KA does in 3rd (proven today, by the way ). 4th, no more chirp....more of a small squealing and actually got a chirp from 5th. I'd say it gave it a bit more power having those working.

I'll make a video here soon, roasting some rubber and stuff. The car still looks like crap...but then again, that's why I wrote "beater?" on the hood.

Later gang!

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Soravia
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Please give us an update on the gas mileage as well.If anyone has looked up on CNN recently, there's a news topic about some guy re-building Geo Metro (Suzuki Swift) and selling them back for like $7k.

If the VQ swap can get 30MPG, it'd be close to the 40MPG the scrappy Metro gets and still be awesome to drive.I'm assuming that early power delivery, larger diameter wheel and reduced weight would count for a lot of things.

irax
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it depends on the ecuthe maximas got between 25-30 mpg and 350zs got between 18-25

in a 240sx that weighs about a thousand pounds lighter is going to see MAYBE a 4mpg increase if you are using a factory ecu and have a rear end that is close to factory final drive.

honestly if i get mine up and running on a maxima ecu and it still gets like 25mpg i'd be very happy.

but also if you use a different final drive rear end you might see better mpg as well. I know when the IS300 guys opted for a higher rear end they saw a good 5mpg increase, or so i heard anyways. So maybe a combination of the two maybe a 9-10 mpg increase? so like 35-40 mpg? that would be as good as a tdi and still run on 'cheaper gas'

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Soravia
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Between higher final drive ratio and larger wheel diameter, which would produce better mileage?

I'm having the idea that larger wheel would induce more rotational inertia by having the wheel weight further from the wheel hub.

irax
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probably the final drive, since one there is no additional mass and two the fact that its engine RPM based

because instead of being at 2k rpm at 60 mph your at 2.75k rpm at 60mph and if your torque band is higher it actually reduces fuel consumption.

and a larger wheel will just increase vehicle speed and not engine speed and if vehicle speed was read at the tires rotation speed it would actually drop engine RPMS so instead of doing 60 mph at 2k you would be doing it at lets say 1.5k which is lower in your torque band which would be worse for gas mileage.

unless your peak torque band was at 1.5k then it might actually be better.

you would think that because your car is running at a higher RPM to produce the same vehicle speed it would use MORE gas, but actually it would use less gas because the torque would help its rotational speed and need less of it. and at higher intake velocity you will have more air coming in.

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Soravia
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Doesn't more air mean more gas to go with it?

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ghettoslide
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