Post by
450sxtc »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/450sxtc-u17209.html
Sun Jun 27, 2004 9:06 pm
Ok, first I want to address the quench zone. You're right about the hot spots. If you left the head as is, it would creat hot spots. There are 2 things that could eleminate this. You could use a dished piston with a taller compression height. You would have to raise the compression height of the piston by the same amount that you decreased the length of the rod. The only problem with this is the chance of getting cold knock or the piston rocking in the cylinder and damaging the cylinder walls. That could be prevented by using a really deep dished piston but then you'd be dropping the compression ratio to much. The better way to prevent this (in my personal opinion) is to retain the stock compression height, and polish the elongated sides of the cumbustion chamber. Possibly even machine them out some and de-burr the edges. This will drop the compression ratio a good deal also, but if you were to round and polish the combustion chamber and then use flat faced and swirl polished valves (instead of the stock domed ones), it would open up the quench zone even more and still mantain proper compression ratio. Also, as the piston rises in the cylinder, the compressed air will be forced through the quench zone and then across the valve faces toward the center of the cylinder. This will cause a collision of air in the center of the cylinder where the thick part of the dome of the piston is at. The collision of air will give good turbulence and as the combustion pressure pushes the piston back down in the cylinder, the heat will be absorbed by the uppermost point on the dome of the piston and spread down the piston as the powerstroke occurs. Then, when the piston reaches bottom dead center it is sprayed with oil at that point to help dissipate heat. As far as the compression ring, I think that a set of Gapless rings would work great in this application. Also it could work to use a forged piston with the with basically stock measurements and have the pin height increased the exact same amount as the compression height, which in my case would be .080". So the piston would be .160" taller from top outer edge down to the bottom of the skirt. This would allow for a top ring that's about .010" + or - thicker that the stock and give you the same size ring land and a taller upper ring land.As far as saying what motor these rods are out of........I really don't want to b/c I have studied this motor so hard to come up with a way to make it stronger. What I can tell you is that the compression is going to be about 8.01-8.14:1. Also the rod ratio will be righ at 1.75040 and change, and yes, they ARE forged. They are avaidable in I-beam H-beam and X-beam. With this particular rod, the crankpin bore has to be resized and the sides and rod radii have to be shaved just a tad. The piston pin bore is just big enough to bush and allows the use of a full floating or pressed pin. It's up to you andthe machine shop. I will give the stock rod lenght CTC. It's 5.7854-5.7868. Work with that and see what you can figure out. When you figure it out, don't tell, because if you do it, IT"S GONNA HAUL ARSE!