VH45DE questions
i just wish someone would blow a VH up so we can get an idea of the internal limit stock.
it might be a good idea to have the pistons, heads, and bearings coated and see if it would hold up. the compression would be slightly higher with the .002 coating on the heads and pistons, but the even surface temperature would help with controlling detonation, so it might work out.
i just cant settle on a setup. if im gonna take it apart to send stuff to swain, i might as well upgrade. im giving myself a headache again...
it might be a good idea to have the pistons, heads, and bearings coated and see if it would hold up. the compression would be slightly higher with the .002 coating on the heads and pistons, but the even surface temperature would help with controlling detonation, so it might work out.
i just cant settle on a setup. if im gonna take it apart to send stuff to swain, i might as well upgrade. im giving myself a headache again...
wow, wait now, you hit it with nitrous WHILE it was under boost????
see, im afraid of a rod making a side exit out the block.
because then im out 1800 for the block i blew up, and i get to buy another block and wait the 8-10 weeks for the rods and pistons.
no point in ordering them and letting them sit.
ahh, i got plenty of time. we'll see what develops boost-wise with other people. custom internals come with a price tag that makes me cry...
see, im afraid of a rod making a side exit out the block.
because then im out 1800 for the block i blew up, and i get to buy another block and wait the 8-10 weeks for the rods and pistons.
no point in ordering them and letting them sit.
ahh, i got plenty of time. we'll see what develops boost-wise with other people. custom internals come with a price tag that makes me cry...
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mtcookson
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1992 Iinfiniti Q45
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Finally found the site. Looks like its more similar to the VK actually. That engine has an odd code for a Nissan "VRH35ADE"
http://popularmechanics.com/au...phtml
http://popularmechanics.com/au...phtml
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mtcookson
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1992 Iinfiniti Q45
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With proper money backing that would be no problem 
Also, got a reply from Paul.
"As far as we know, no one currently makes pistons for this engine, other than Infinity. We have J&E Pistons custom-make each piston for each application. They charge us about $125-$130 to make each piston. We can also dish the pistons and open up the combustion chambers to gain more volume for turbocharging. - Paul"
So, about 1000 dollars worth of pistons
Also, got a reply from Paul.
"As far as we know, no one currently makes pistons for this engine, other than Infinity. We have J&E Pistons custom-make each piston for each application. They charge us about $125-$130 to make each piston. We can also dish the pistons and open up the combustion chambers to gain more volume for turbocharging. - Paul"
So, about 1000 dollars worth of pistons
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mtcookson
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1992 Iinfiniti Q45
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Could always try BRC Performance. Z31 guys seem to use them a lot. I think they can get custom made, to their specifications, forged pistons for around 500 dollars. That's for 6 pistons of course but still not too bad. Talked about on the top of this page http://mywebpages.comcast.net/....html
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450sxtc
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Hey you guys ever consider making some oil squirters??? That's what I'm doing. Tapped into oil pressure and I'm going to fab the squirters with peices from KA blocks that I have laying around. Also, any of you ever pay attention to the rod ratio of this motor??? You don't really have to get pistons made. Try reconsidering and playing with the rod legth. If you can do the math, you'll find that there is a set of rods for another engine out there that can fit into this motor with a little machining and give it a perfect rod ratio and retain the shape and size of the stock pistons which promotes for great torque under boost at low rpms. Swirl polishing the tops of the pistons helps to. Also, if you use the correct internal combo you will have that perfect rod ration which will balance power and torque evenly and and still allow for hella high rpms and less piston to valve interference, and this is good for all of us who seem to enjoy boost and know our motors have weak timing chain guides and such.........just putting in my 2 cents. enjoying reading the post.......Nate
i was going to retain the stock rod length, and have the pistons made with a little deeper dish to get a 9:1 compression ratio. i wouldnt change the rod length to adjust compression, because that would increase the quench area, and would lead to hot spots.
instead of oil squirters, i would have the pistons and heads swain coated. gold coat on the heads and piston tops, and poly moly on the skirts.
i would rather put the time into the VH than the RB idea i abandoned, the VH would be a better choice to haul a 3600 lb car around.
also, i wonder if the VH weighs less than the iron VG30DE. it would be funny to say "i did some weight reduction by swapping in a V8"
the VG30DE with its auto transmission probably weighs more than a VH with the Z32 manual.
instead of oil squirters, i would have the pistons and heads swain coated. gold coat on the heads and piston tops, and poly moly on the skirts.
i would rather put the time into the VH than the RB idea i abandoned, the VH would be a better choice to haul a 3600 lb car around.
also, i wonder if the VH weighs less than the iron VG30DE. it would be funny to say "i did some weight reduction by swapping in a V8"
the VG30DE with its auto transmission probably weighs more than a VH with the Z32 manual.
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450sxtc
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What are you talking about when you say the "quench area", the lower edge of the rod at the 10 and 2 oclock positions over the crankpin??? I was working off of the fact that this motor has pretty close to a perfect rod ratio and going with another aftermarket rod, one that is already produced, that is slightly shorter and could be machined to fit by removing a very small amount of the material, would give this motor almost a perfect rod ratio which is a key element in race motors.
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450sxtc
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also I don't disagree with the coating idea at all but the combination of that and oil squirters could promote for higher boost situations with less money involved b/c we all like to keep things cost effective to some extent. I'm planning on the squirters just being my "extra layer or protection". You know what I'm sayin??
very much. there is an oil gallery available to tap for squirters?
i havent had the opportunity to take a VH apart yet. i have the FSM that ive been mulling over. i have to get a new project J anyways, and i like to fully design my course of action before i turn the first wrench, so we'll get this straight.
ive just been under alot of stress. my girlfriends car got stolen a couple of months ago, and im trying to find her a car. i found her a 95 maxima SE, but the guy messed up hardcore at the DMV, so now im going to look at a GXE with no leather, but the bose system. finding good used cars sucks. and on top of it, i have to find another J30. no one has a J30t with a good body/interior and a blown motor. im not gonna pay 6g's for a car with low miles and a good motor/trans just to rip it out. Q45's are cheaper, but i dont want a 4000+ lb car... [/rant]
i havent had the opportunity to take a VH apart yet. i have the FSM that ive been mulling over. i have to get a new project J anyways, and i like to fully design my course of action before i turn the first wrench, so we'll get this straight.
ive just been under alot of stress. my girlfriends car got stolen a couple of months ago, and im trying to find her a car. i found her a 95 maxima SE, but the guy messed up hardcore at the DMV, so now im going to look at a GXE with no leather, but the bose system. finding good used cars sucks. and on top of it, i have to find another J30. no one has a J30t with a good body/interior and a blown motor. im not gonna pay 6g's for a car with low miles and a good motor/trans just to rip it out. Q45's are cheaper, but i dont want a 4000+ lb car... [/rant]
if you see where the piston squirters would go, thats great. i would definately install them.
with the 6 quarts the pan holds, then an external filter, cooler and thermostat, and a 3 qt accumulator, i shouldnt have a problem with oil temps. ball bearing turbos use very little oil anyway. im just undecided how i want to plumb the turbos oil and water-wise. might be better package-wise to tap the heads for oil and coolant. if i go off the pressure switch, or off the return from the cooler, i would have to use a restrictor and plumb around the block for the turbo opposite the feed.
oil shouldnt be as big of a problem as the coolant lines.
[im envisoning the mess of stainless steel hoses...]
with the 6 quarts the pan holds, then an external filter, cooler and thermostat, and a 3 qt accumulator, i shouldnt have a problem with oil temps. ball bearing turbos use very little oil anyway. im just undecided how i want to plumb the turbos oil and water-wise. might be better package-wise to tap the heads for oil and coolant. if i go off the pressure switch, or off the return from the cooler, i would have to use a restrictor and plumb around the block for the turbo opposite the feed.
oil shouldnt be as big of a problem as the coolant lines.
[im envisoning the mess of stainless steel hoses...]
450sxtc wrote:What are you talking about when you say the "quench area", the lower edge of the rod at the 10 and 2 oclock positions over the crankpin??? I was working off of the fact that this motor has pretty close to a perfect rod ratio and going with another aftermarket rod, one that is already produced, that is slightly shorter and could be machined to fit by removing a very small amount of the material, would give this motor almost a perfect rod ratio which is a key element in race motors.
you see how the heads have an oval combustion chamber. when the piston rises, and squeezes the charge into the oval area, the flat area of the head where it comes very close to the top of the piston is the quench zone. i may not be conveying this properly.
actually, if you know of a production aftermarket rod that fits your specs, that would allow the use of a piston with a shorter pin height, allowing the top ring to come down the piston slightly, or the use of a thicker ring. the pistons would be considerably stronger.
[wow, four posts in a row. i need to consolidate my ideas]
[wow, four posts in a row. i need to consolidate my ideas]
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mtcookson
- Posts: 2204
- Joined: Thu Nov 21, 2002 12:43 pm
- Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX
1992 Iinfiniti Q45
and much much more - Contact:
450sxtc wrote:Hey you guys ever consider making some oil squirters??? That's what I'm doing. Tapped into oil pressure and I'm going to fab the squirters with peices from KA blocks that I have laying around. Also, any of you ever pay attention to the rod ratio of this motor??? You don't really have to get pistons made. Try reconsidering and playing with the rod legth. If you can do the math, you'll find that there is a set of rods for another engine out there that can fit into this motor with a little machining and give it a perfect rod ratio and retain the shape and size of the stock pistons which promotes for great torque under boost at low rpms. Swirl polishing the tops of the pistons helps to. Also, if you use the correct internal combo you will have that perfect rod ration which will balance power and torque evenly and and still allow for hella high rpms and less piston to valve interference, and this is good for all of us who seem to enjoy boost and know our motors have weak timing chain guides and such.........just putting in my 2 cents. enjoying reading the post.......Nate
do you know what the compression would be at with the different rods? also, if you don't mind saying, what car are they from? are they forged?