VG30DETT Rebuild: Advice Needed

[Cytrakz]

Hey what's up everyone! So I got my long block paid off and back home in my garage over the weekend. For those of you who don't know the story of my Z it's a 91 TT with 78K, but it had a blown motor and I paid 1K for it. Here's the link if you wanna check it out: bought-my-first-z-t542788.html


Okay so here is what I got done to it, he assembled the block, heads, cams, etc. and I will be putting the rest of the stuff back on myself.

Total for job 3.5K:

Wiseco Pistons and Rings
ACL Racing Rod Bearings
ACL Main Racing Bearings
ARP Connecting Rod bolts
ARP Main Stud Kit
ARP Head Stud Kit
Supertech High Temp Valve Seals
Supertech Valve Springs
Cosmetic Metal Head Gaskets
Degrease Inspect
Square Deck Block
Align and Hone Mains
Chamfer and Polish Crank Shaft
Bore and Hone Cyls .20
Re-size Connecting Rods (decided to keep stock)
Resurface Heads
DOHC Valves
Balance and Rotate Assembly
Assemble Engine: Heads, Rods, Cams, etc.

Before:

After:


Before:

After:







What was done to engine before blown piston:

HKS Intake, Polished intake manifold, 3” cat-back exhaust, high flow mufflers,
Greddy Profec Type-S boost controller, JWT performance programmed ECU,
Lowered 1 ¾ in, cross drilled rotors, JDM taillights and aftermarket rear spoiler.

Services:
Clutch and flywheel (26K ago)
Replaced Shifter bushings and sleeve (20K ago)
60K service, new tires, timing belt, & water pump (18K ago)
Replaced cam sensor, hoses, 27 point inspection, brakes flushed, air filter, bulbs (16K ago)
New battery and oil/filter change (12K ago)
Oil change, 27 point inspection, pass window motor, pwr antenna (8K ago)
New water pump (5K ago)
New starter (3K ago)
New 149 mph tires (1K ago)
New brake pads all around (1k ago)



What I have purchased:

N/A Oil Squirters (3)
Nismo 555CC Injectors
OEM Gasket kit
BDE Exhaust Cam Valve Cover Plugs

Purchasing in the coming weeks:

2.5 SZ downpipes and test pipes (scrapped my stock ones for $ towards engine lol)
EGR delete kit
02 sensors
NGK spark plugs


I pretty much just wanted to pull the engine to get rebuilt and put it back together with the same parts because it's in great shape. Then upgrade the parts that caused the engine to blow before, which was the previous owner turning the boost up too high with stock injectors. The stock turbos are in great shape with hardly any shaft play, I got them checked out at the shop. Over the summer I plan on getting Mike smith manifolds and bigger turbos, but all my money has gone towards rebuild so I can't get them now lol. So I'm starting to save now for that stuff but I wanted to get some more miles out of the stocks since they only have 78K on them and are in great shape.


Questions:

The previous owner put a JWT ECU in it, but now that I got bigger injectors do I just need to order a Eprom chip with my specs and put it in myself or will I have to send the whole ECU out?


With the few upgrades I will be doing, will I need to upgrade the clutch and flywheel with the added power?


What boost should I be running once I get her running?


I appreciate any feedback and suggestions towards other parts I should get.

Thanks in advance, Pete.

[300ZXttZMAN]

Yes you will need another eprom chip. You won't need to send your ECU out since it already has the socket installed. All you have to do is get the chip and put the chip in with the notch facing inward.

Just run stock boost until you get used to everything.

Also, can you explain this:

Services:
Clutch and flywheel (52K)
Replaced Shifter bushings and sleeve (55K)
60K service, new tires, timing belt, & water pump (60K)
Replaced cam sensor, hoses, 27 point inspection, brakes flushed, air filter, bulbs (62K)
New battery and oil/filter change (66K)
Oil change, 27 point inspection, pass window motor, pwr antenna (70K)
New water pump (73K)
New starter (75K)
New 149 mph tires (77K)
New brake pads all around (77K)

How many miles does your car have now? if your car has 120k or something then its time for a new 120k timing kit.

Instead of saying what mileage each of these things were done at just say how many miles ago each of these things were done at.

[Cytrakz]

Thanks for the reply man, alright thanks I'm going to order the JWT eprom from concept Z.

Okay good call ill just run stock boost, should I gap my spark plugs for stock or 15psi?

Sorry about the confusion with the Services, my car has 78K on it so a lot of those things were replaced right before previous owner blew the piston. I will edit the information by how long ago it was done.

I was doing some digging on oil squirts, probably good to grad 3 of those as well?

[300ZXttZMAN]

Yes get 3 NA oil squirters they are super cheap new OEM - its a must if your going with forged pistons.

I suggest you call up Specialty Z and have him send you a Eprom for your build.

I'm not sure on the spark plug question and dont want to give you misinformation - Ask SZ while your on the phone with the EPROM then just buy what ever plugs they tell you to get because they will probably have them instock.

[Cytrakz]

I called down to the shop that did my motor and asked about the oil squirters because I saw that my TT ones were installed. They said when they tested it they cleared the pistons and didn't hit anything. What's you suggestion for that? Is it even possible to put in the Na ones with my whole bottom end done?

Alright thanks man ill give them a call to get that all taken care of!

As far as my clutch and flywheel, do you think I should upgrade to like a stage 2 or is my stock okay? Actually since he replaced it about 26k ago ill have to check if it's even stock lol.

Thanks for the help though!! Im trying to get her on the road ASAP

[300ZXttZMAN]

Yes its possible. I did mine when the bottom end was together.

Here is what you will need:
Shallow 10mm 1/4 drive socket
1/4 ratchet
1/4 ~7" extension
27mm 1/2 drive socket
1/2 ratchet
Magnet on a stick
Super glue

What you need to do is take the bolts off, use a magnet to get the bolts as you pull them.

Use the magnet stick to grab the squirter, remove the gasket on the bottom of the squirter. Be careful when taking the gasket off that is on the bottom of the squirter then transfer the gasket to the NA squirter (if gasket breaks then replace).

Use magnet to lower the new NA oil squirter into the block, use your extension to push the squirter into place and detach it from the magnetic field.

Get your socket and stick a random 10mm nut that you don't need inside of it and use a bit of superglue to hold it in - let dry.

Take the bolt that holds the squirter to the block and put just a dab of superglue (as in a bubble, it doesn't take much) on the head where it meets the wall of the socket then start the threads. Once you get the threads started you can pull the socket. I fastened them down in a sequence. Tighten them up.

Repeat. Rotate the crank as necessary.

No the tiny amount of superglue won't hurt anything incase your wondering and IMHO for this instance its better than the paper trick because the grasp has to be firm on bolt so that you know its not cross threaded. Also when you go to remove the socket you will see that the glue actually breaks its bond on the bolt and stays in the socket. (Mine did atleast)

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Return those Nismo 555CC injectors for 740CC (or 615CC) late style pintle-less injectors if you can. Otherwise, look forward to a plenum pull (and $$$) in a year or less when they fail after getting eaten by the ethanol in our gas now.

[Cytrakz]

Awesome!! Thanks for the write up @300zxttzman I appreciate it, just ordered the N/A oil squirters today. I will have pictures to come of my progress for you guys soon.

@Thisisspartta thanks for the feedback on the injectors, I plan on getting some late style Nismo 740's in the near future. I picked up the early style 555 from a NICO member pretty cheap, so I'm going to run those until I have enough money to upgrade to the 740's.