ive been doing a lot of work on my 240 since its accident a few weeks ago. im currently installing new timing assembly parts. i got the lower chain installed nice and tight. the upper chain is a ***** to get on. does anyone know how to get it all on??
also, i was thinking i could removed the slack side guide and install the 2 cam sprockets and idler sprocket with the upper chain on all at the same time, but i fuked the **** out of lower chain slack guide bolt!! i have another one but i cant get this one off cuz the head is stripped!!! im a moron, please help me.
Urgent Help! cam sprockets/upper chain install
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DammitBobby
- Posts: 1431
- Joined: Fri May 02, 2003 5:41 am
- Car: S13 91 KA24DET
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I'm just now starting the same upper/lower chain replacment work you're doing, 93 240SX. I'll be reading the posts and replies to this thread. Can you briefly tell me what kinds of problem you had when changing the lower chain? Do you know what size socket I'll need to grip the crank pulley nut so I can turn the crank for TDC #1? I found out the previous owner(s) have been inside the engine before since the upper chain guide was broken off where it mounts to the head. I don't know if they just threw the other portion away or it might be laying in pieces at the bottom of lower front cover! Still alot of fun to come.Good luck with your project, I feel your PAIN.KFG::eek:
I'm just now starting the same upper/lower chain replacment work you're doing, 93 240SX. I'll be reading the posts and replies to this thread. Can you briefly tell me what kinds of problem you had when changing the lower chain? Do you know what size socket I'll need to grip the crank pulley nut so I can turn the crank for TDC #1? I found out the previous owner(s) have been inside the engine before since the upper chain guide was broken off where it mounts to the head. I don't know if they just threw the other portion away or it might be laying in pieces at the bottom of lower front cover! Still alot of fun to come.Good luck with your project, I feel your PAIN.KFG::eek:
I have removed the upper timing chain cover to see whats there. The upper chain guide has been completely broken off by the previous owner. All thats left is a stub portion of metal that lies directly under the fastening bolts. Both the chain tensioner and the right side guide have moderate grooves cut into the surface. Plan to replace both of them and the chain. I originally wanted to change just the upper chain parts but I'm now thinking it might be best to change the lower portion as well. Already have the engine torn down, no sense to put it back together to find out the lower timing chain was making all the noise. Only problem so far was getting the distributor out if the cover. It put up quite a battle, didn't want to move. It is an extrememly tight fit not sure right now what to do to make it easier to get back in place.
yeah that doesnt soudn too bad. meanwhile im still stuck on mine. im getting paranoid now too. the fsm says just to mate up the marks it says nothing about marking the chain cuz i have a new one. the new upper chain has 2 silver and one yellow, i assumed the 2 silver were for the cam sprockets and the yellow was for the idler sprocket. can anyone clarify that for me ?? and does anyone know how to get the bloody upper chain back on, can i "roll" the camshafts to make it get in or what? any input is appreciated.
although my upper guide was pretty scraped up it wasnt completely broken, seemed pretty beefy actualy but im getting rid of it anyway. the lower chain wasnt hard to install at all. everything lined up perfectly. but this upper chain is the biggest b1tch..
also which guides am i supposed to throw out, the top one and the one on the right? or just the top guide
also which guides am i supposed to throw out, the top one and the one on the right? or just the top guide
I'm no ASE mechanic but here's the way I'm approaching the work. I want all of the guides back on my engine. I think they're supposed to be there as the engineers designed it. The one on the right should stay for sure.Haven't taken off the upper timing chain as yet so can't really give alot of help there. I'll probrably be doing mine this weekend , I'll let you know if I find a way to mount them. I wouldn't recommend turning the camshafts because you may lose your TDC alignment and might cause the valves to contact the top of the piston.The colored links on the chain are for alignment purposes. The two silver links match the cam sprockets and the gold link matches the idler pulley.Is there any insight you can offer before I start removing the lower cover? How tough was it getting the crank pulley off?
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rousie13
- Posts: 4106
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- Location: Delaware, OH
I was tearing down my spare KA and I would say remove the two tensioners on the sides. Try to put the chain on with them off and see if it goes on, then put the tensioners in place. If that doesn't work, maybe try removing one of the sprockets on the cam. Then put the sprocket in the chain and stretch it to where it's supposed to fit using the bolt that holds the sprocket on. I'm not sure if these techniques will work, just some ideas I got from removing the cams and upper chain from my spare KA.
Update on the upper timing chain guides. I talked with my brother in Miami, his wife works for a major Nissan dealership. Their parts manager says they no longer offer/sell the top or right side guides anymore. Basic reason is they're not needed for the engine to work properly. There's 2 pieces you or I don't have to buy or worry about!
HELP - HELP - HELPI know someone out there has had to replace the lower timing chain. I have EVERYTHING disconnected from the cover but I can't get it to move more than 1/8" away from the block. Do you have to remove the entire oil pan? I have all of the front bolts removed and loosend the bolts on the sides of the pan.Please give me some ideas to get this MF'r off!!!!Thanks
Yea, I know I sound flustrated!
Yea, I know I sound flustrated!
240-4-me wrote:Do you have to remove the entire oil pan? I have all of the front bolts removed and loosend the bolts on the sides of the pan.Please give me some ideas to get this MF'r off!!!!
You have to drop the pan and remove the bolts (2, I believe) that are connecting the oil pick-up to the front cover. So, you do need to drop the pan and remove the pick-up to get lower cover off.
Its not really all the big of a deal to drop the pan, you don't even really drop it, you loosen all the bolts and it "drops" but it still stays in place because there is too much other stuff in the way. If you have gotten all the way to the front cover, taking off the oil pan is no big deal at all.
And if you are thinking " I can do this without taking it off" just stop there, as I had the same thoughts and I ended up just wasting a weekend trying to figure out a way to get it off, while I could have just spent an hour taking the pan off and been done with it.
And if you are thinking " I can do this without taking it off" just stop there, as I had the same thoughts and I ended up just wasting a weekend trying to figure out a way to get it off, while I could have just spent an hour taking the pan off and been done with it.
what the!
what the! so i looked through some pages on cam installs etc. i go out to put that bloody chain back on. and guess what, i got it on in a matter of seconds. that was way too easy. now im very suspicious, here is a picture of what it looks like now
there is no slack anywhere except for the tensioner side so its not a problem. its on tight. so is this right or is this wrong? (96' 240sx engine set at TDC on #1)
there is no slack anywhere except for the tensioner side so its not a problem. its on tight. so is this right or is this wrong? (96' 240sx engine set at TDC on #1)
another photo
i did it again this time the yellow mark is lined up on the idler sprocket, the silver mark is lined up on the exhaust sprocket, but the intake sprocket is off by one tooth. and there is some slack on the tensioner side.
i neeeeeeed help
now ive done it a THIRD time. all the marks lined up now cuz i moved the intake cam to be opposite of the exhuast cam (both pointing complete opposite direction). now all the 3 of the marks line up, but now the slack of the chain is on the top part of the chain in between the 2 sprockets.
i dont want to destroy this thing someone help me out..
i dont want to destroy this thing someone help me out..
Hmm, I beleive where the tension on the chain is doesn't matter, because as soon as the car starts up the tensioner will push the chain out, which causes the intake came to turn slightly and get rid of all the slack on the top usually. I was worreid about this too until I thought about what would happen when I started teh car up. I beleive as long as the marks line up, you are in business.
from teh first and second picture your intake came seems to be off time, which you fixed the third time, so you should be set.
from teh first and second picture your intake came seems to be off time, which you fixed the third time, so you should be set.
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burnin240sx
- Posts: 1019
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hey the third time i got it all lined up right. so i decided to rotate the engine a few times. then many times. it didnt skip any teeth but it never got back to where it was at originally (with all 3 marks lined up). so i was like oh **** ive messed it up all over again. then i went to this link here and it was exactly as mine is now:
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/240cams.html
http://www.negative-camber.org...4.jpg
http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/240cams.html
http://www.negative-camber.org...4.jpg
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burnin240sx
- Posts: 1019
- Joined: Sun Feb 01, 2004 11:58 pm
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those marks should not line back up after rotating your engine, they are mearly a helpful tool in getting the chains back on in time. As long as you had them on right in the first place, then I say you are good to go. Btw if you rotated your engine and it could turn freely without any problems that means it is in good enough time to not have any valves hit pistons or something, so I say you have it on exactly right, and should start putting the rest of the stuff on.
yeah that was what i was aiming for. hopefully it all goes well thanks for the advice. haha.. now one more problem ill probbaly face later today. when i took out the distributor, i did not paint or put a mark on the distributor when i took it out so i dont know how to put it correctly again. so you got any tips for that too?
thanks
thanks