upgrade turbo

[IDriveFords]

So I've decided to keep my pile (93' 240sx) instead of selling it off and buying an evo. The only problem is I need to make this thing faster and in order to do that I need... yes you guessed it: BIGGER TURBO! So I've compiled a list of stuff im gonna order and I've decided to spend the money and shoot for an application making a little over 300whp but capable of 400ish. So here it goes:

-JGY Stage 2 turbo upgrade: GT2871 turbo, 72# injectors, JGY fuel rail, JGY top mount turbo manifold, any other necessary piping-nismo fpr-factory time chain kit-greddy rocker arm stoppers-factory water pump-cometic head gasket-arp head studs-greddy mbc-z32 maf-enthalpy tune

Looking to run 16-18 lbs. Any constructive critisms are welcome. I will be pulling the motor but I really don't wanna get into building the block or head and I've been assured that the stock sr internals are good for at least 350ish whp. If theres anything else I should worry about just lemme know I don't wanna spend all this money only to blow my motor. Thnx all

[Emperor_Tha]

get a better headgasket. Cosmetic are going to leak on u. Use apexi or cosworth ( spelling?)

[IDriveFords]

I have a brand new stock one but I figured that probably won't hold up as well as an aftermarket one.

[idahotuner]

i would get most your stuff from phase2. they are our sponsors and you get a discount on instock part.s

WHOA WHOA WHAO hold up here

GT2871 turbo, - get it from Phase 2 72# injectors - get 550cc or 740cc deatsch werk ones also a sponsor, JGY fuel rail- use your stock fuel railJGY top mount turbo manifold Use the stock bottom mount manifold. or get an tubular bottem mount. top mount will hurt your spool up.any other necessary piping- greddy LS intercooler.-nismo fpr- good choice here get and inline FP gauge.-factory time chain kit - Why? nothing wrong with the stock one. it is a chain not a belt.-greddy rocker arm stoppers- good choice here but not a necessity -factory water pump - could be an good idea depend how yours is working now.-cometic head gasket- get an apexi headgasket phase 2-arp head studs - good choice - phase 2-greddy mbc - HUH get a HKS adjustably actuator -z32 maf - NICO FS section-enthalpy tune - pick up a used one its alot cheaper then you dotn have the down time and you can sell your old ECU

Looking to run 16-18 lbs. - me too. check out my build and you can pretty much copy it. zerothread?id=281805 stock bottem end will be fine. ight? i am out

[IDriveFords]

I'm only really lookin for 350ish whp and maybe be able to rev to around 7.5-8k so what exactly should I do with the head to achieve this reliably? I still wanna keep the car street able but track friendly. I'm also not looking for ginormous amounts of raw power I would much rather have a comfortable mesh of power and handling since I mostly plan to use this car for road race courses. Money is not a huge issue here but I'd rather not break the bank with this either. Looking to invest 3k under the hood and I want the car to be very reliable and not have to worry about boom boom. I'm already going to replace the HG and use ARP headstuds. I'm not worried about the bottom end because I know thats pretty solid for 350ish whp so what exactly should I be doing to the head to make sure I won't be breaking things? I've been looking at some other builds and I'm thinking I should get new valve seals/springs/retainers and rocker arm stoppers? Sound good?

[WoolyS14DET]

[QUOTE=idahotuner]i would get most your stuff from phase2. they are our sponsors and you get a discount on instock part.s

^ I agree Phase 2 has good ISHHHH. NO jgy

[idahotuner]

I've been looking at some other builds and I'm thinking I should get new valve seals/springs/retainers and rocker arm stoppers? Sound good?

BC 264 camsBC springs and possible retainersRocker arm stops arnt necessary, more of a safety precautionValve seals always a good idea.

and as far as head stuff that is what ya need. now i hope when you go and take apart your head you label and mark everydamn thing you take out i cant stress it enough. cam capscamsrocker armsvalve shimslifters.

and you will probably need to havea shop install the seals and springs.

[otterman]

i 72# injectors - get 550cc or 740cc deatsch werk ones also a sponsor

72lb ~ 740cc

[idahotuner]

72lb ~ 740cc

lol i know that but i was giving him the best place to get them. and they do it by CC

[DrifterProdigy85]

Idahotuner, explain how top mount is gonna hurt spool? An equal length manifold is gonna be the same top or bottom. The runner length is the only way and both top and bottom are about the same length runners.

[otterman]

topmount doesn't really hurt spool I dont think.

It's just the fact that the top mount turbos are usually bigger so they took longer to spool.

[idahotuner]

i have heard that from several reliable sources. but i dont know the theory behind it. all i know is if you are going stick witha smaller turbo it is better to stay bottem mount.

[James@CI]

Getting a top mount turbo will actually spool faster than a bottom mount.The reason for that is that hot air rises and like we all know the impeller on a turbo does not turn because flow its because of the expansion of hot air.Though just going for 350-400 hp the topmount would be over kill and not needed.

[idahotuner]

^ yeah that is the main reason ti is overkill for that power band. i guess i should have just said that. i thought cody ace said that it hurt spool . maybe it was someone else

[IDriveFords]

So I think I've decided on my headbuild and what turbo I'm gonna use. Like I mentioned above this car is gonna be built for street/road race so I really don't need ginormous amounts of power. I think I'm gonna go with the gt28rs for quicker spool times runnin 16-18psi. As far as the head goes I think I'll go with BC 264/264 cams and BC springs/retainers as well as some mild headwork. I'm guessing the stock valves will be fine minus maybe getting them cleaned? I figure this will be fine for revs around 7.5-8k? Like I said I'm only looking to make 300-350ish whp. If you think those cams may be too aggresive for the gt28rs turbo it won't cost me much of anything to make the jump to a gt2871 I'm just worried that might be too much turbo for the power I'm trying to make. I will also be going with the HKS 1.2mm headgasket and ARP headstud kit. Tell me what you guys think.

[idahotuner]

i would go gt2871 r .64 but that is me lol. so that is what i did.

[bruinbear714]

So I've decided to keep my pile (93' 240sx) instead of selling it off and buying an evo. The only problem is I need to make this thing faster and in order to do that I need... yes you guessed it: BIGGER TURBO! So I've compiled a list of stuff im gonna order and I've decided to spend the money and shoot for an application making a little over 300whp but capable of 400ish. So here it goes:

-JGY Stage 2 turbo upgrade: GT2871 turbo, 72# injectors, JGY fuel rail, JGY top mount turbo manifold, any other necessary piping-nismo fpr-factory time chain kit-greddy rocker arm stoppers-factory water pump-cometic head gasket-arp head studs-greddy mbc-z32 maf-enthalpy tune

Looking to run 16-18 lbs. Any constructive critisms are welcome. I will be pulling the motor but I really don't wanna get into building the block or head and I've been assured that the stock sr internals are good for at least 350ish whp. If theres anything else I should worry about just lemme know I don't wanna spend all this money only to blow my motor. Thnx all

Just go to frsport for your T28 sr20 turbo kit... has everything you need bolt on.