Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

Welcome to my build it started out as a question thread hence all the questions at the beginning. but around page 3 or 4 it gets good lol

i would post my list of mods here but there is a comprehensive list in a few places spread throughout the thread. basically it includes a gt2871r .64 and all supporting mods. and enthalpy tuned ECU

Changed the thread title to be a little more descriptive. It was driving me crazy -TA
Modified by idahotuner at 6:17 PM 3/10/2008


doridori23
Posts: 271
Joined: Wed Jun 13, 2007 11:43 am
Car: 1996 SR20deT 240sx (mine) , 1998 KA24de (wife's)

Post

At a minimum you should do the springs also. You're risking catastrophic failure on a job that takes 30 mins and $150 in parts. The retainers are not necessary unless their worn. Sure the Ti weighs less and will allow for minuscule improvements in rpm and response but unless your going for a major rebuild just do the springs.

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

dang... you always want to cheap out....

valve float is why.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

ILikeMy240sx wrote:dang... you always want to cheap out....

valve float is why.
trying to save money. some where. because i am worried that everyting is going to pile up to a large amount. not nessicarly cheap out. i just notice there are parts for sale and they say well if your replace this then you should replace that and then this and that and this and that. so i am trying to sort out what is really necessary. plus i am new to the whole tearing the motor apart and putting it back together thing. and i am only 19 and am paying for all of this in stages over the winter as i build it. this is a learning experience and i want to learn as much as possible. probably why i am on here 24/7 rereading old forums.

ok so as far as my head build goes. you guys would recomend:tomei hgARP head studs264 bc camsbc springs. should be good huh

not trying to build a head to rev to ridiculus rpms what could i raise my rev limitor to with this set up.thank you

yes even you Ilikemy240sx-your input is appriciated

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

thats a pretty good setup actually. You dont need Ti retainers if you really want to save money.

With that setup Id set the rev limiter around 7.5k~8k.

Ti is lighter so it is more rev friendly but the stock retainer should be fine with BC springs.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

thanks.

so what about the enthalpy tune. are they really able to fine tune the car with out it o na dyno and using a computer. of is it nessisary to get a SAFC as well?

User avatar
Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Post

Off the shelf tunes will are designed for a general engine package. each engine is different in reality, given the same setp, but an off the shelf tune will run your car. You just won't see it outperform a dyno tune.

Dave Coleman at SCC had Jim Wolf dyno tune his car for a little extra, and the tune found an extra 14 hp.

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

Enthalpy tune on my car is setup VERY VERY well.

My AFR goes to about 11.9~12.1 during WOT and full boost which is exactly where I wanted it to be.

And Enthalpy also has very good reputation. Ask anybody with their tune. All of them will tell you how satisfied they are.

It's a bit more expensive than going with a piggy back but I bet its far better than what some people do with their piggy backs.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

when i am done that is where i will have mine tuned. how would they fine tune that on a dyno. because i have no clue. would i just take my car to a reputible shop and have them do a fine tune.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

while i am asking questions on this forum. has any one relocated their MAF to be right infront of the throttle body instead of on the intake pipe. i read in modified mag that they suggested this because if your get a leak or have problems with your intercooler hoses poping off then the engine will run liek an N/A and you wont be stuck.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

well i ordered my headparts to day. and the .8mm headgasket was on back order so i got a 1.1 mm which will lower the compression a smidgen. but i dont think it will make to big of difference.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

ok is it nessicary to have a thermostat controling your electric radiator fan. or can i just hard wire it so when the key is on the fan is on?

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

Bump

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

bumb.


idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

hey when replace my turbo extension should i replace my o2 sensor or should my stock one still be fine?

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

Blow-through MAF setup you described has its benefits like you mentioned. However, the longevity of the sensor is greatly reduced as it was not designed with the flow of boosted air after the turbo. Before the turbo it only sees suction and is never pressurized.

I would highly recommend getting a thermostat controlled e-fan. A relay with a probe that sticks in your radiator costs as little as 15 bucks. It will only kick the fan on when its needed. Your engine needs to be in its operating temperature to achieve better efficiency. Contrary to popular belief, thermodynamically, it is better to not lose any heat during the cycle of the engine and use all of that heat into expansion work. Obviously, this is not possible due to natural heat transfer and the limitation of the engine material. So this is why its not necessarily a good thing to operate your engine artificially cold by turning the fan on at all times. Not only does it load your alternator when not needed, it leads to decreased longevity of the fan, and your engine not operating at its peak efficiency.

You dont really have to replace the o2 sensor if it's not broken. Remember, redtops use skinny o2 sensor and blacktops and above use fat o2 sensor.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

i am bringing my forum back to life. lol.

so i got a few questions.

as far as fuel system upgrade is a fuel pump and injectors all you need?

and as far as the spark side of the equation, do i only need to change spark plugs? i am planing on NKG IX's

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

lol this got renamed and i couldnt find it in my watched topics. great title though.

User avatar
mval123
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:37 am
Car: 91' 240 hatch

Post

What's up Ben, if you're looking to save a few bucks look into a hybridynamicsrom tune...their custom tunes run about $375 and I've heard nothing but good stuff about them, Jay is very knowledgeable and will help you out with anything. I was running their stage one tune and was even with my buddy's 2871r setup (running stickier tires and my car weighs about 300lbs less than his, that probably helped quite a bit)... till a fuel hose popped loose while under boost and I melted a piston, oh well, get to have fun with a rebuild. Good luck with your car and let me know when you get her running

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

bumpedy bump

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

idahotuner wrote:i am bringing my forum back to life. lol.

so i got a few questions.

as far as fuel system upgrade is a fuel pump and injectors all you need?

and as far as the spark side of the equation, do i only need to change spark plugs? i am planing on NKG IX's
bumping my questions

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

Z32 fuel filter + fuel pump + fuel injector + adjustable FPR to offset your tune if need to (optional) + good tune

NGK7EIX with .028 gap

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

thanks buddy,

i got a fuel pump allready and i am planing on 680 injectors i think. enthalpy tune is what i will get when it is all said and done.

and thosw where the spark plugs i was thinking about thanks.

User avatar
mval123
Posts: 138
Joined: Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:37 am
Car: 91' 240 hatch

Post

Enthalpy tunes are pretty spot on...I would stay away from the afc, My buddy was actually told by enthalpy to disconnect it. A wide band and fpr will be good insurance, if everything checks out you could just sell the wide band (to me )

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

wide band? see everything make since until th electronics part lol. i know it is for controling how much fuel over the rpm rang but that is it. no ideas on brands or which product is which for that

i figured an enthalpy tune and a boost controller. greddy profec b spec II

maybe a fpr later on to lean it out and get a little more power.

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

By wideband he means a wide band o2 sensor. I prefer to call o2 sensor a EGO (Exhaust Gas Oxygen) sensor. And you will hear them get referred as a UEGO like in the AEM kit.

The stock o2 sensor is a narrow band sensor meaning it can only tell you if you are running rich or lean and it is used for the ECU to cycle between rich and lean.

Wide band O2 sensors can tell you all the O2 readings that the narrow band misses. i.e. everything between really rich and really lean.

For tuning and also to monitor your engine's behavior, a wideband O2 sensor is really needed as this is the only accurate way of knowing what the A/F ratio of your engine is at any given time. It is more useful as a tuning tool but it is also an invaluable tool to make sure your car is not running lean which can lead to pinging.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

so does that mean buying a new o2 sensor? or what exactly do i need to get for those. cost vs. performace here lol

ILikeMy240sx
Posts: 5358
Joined: Fri May 28, 2004 2:49 pm
Car: SR Power

Post

no your stock o2 sensor still stays where it is. You'd have to make a new bung on your downpipe for your wideband O2 sensor.

Honestly, if you are going to get Enthalpy and not tuning your self with a stand alone then you dont really need it. Its just for you to monitor and make sure that A/F ratio is spot on which it usually is with Enthalpy.

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

hey thanks man. this thread title should have on the end "and ILikeMy240sx's Answers" lol

idahotuner
Posts: 10583
Joined: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:11 am
Car: 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 6.7 Cummins
93 Nissan Sileighty
93 Honda Civic hatch
2011 Polaris Ranger
Contact:

Post

okie dokie,,

i am getting paid wensday that means i will have 1000 more bucks to put towards my build. so that means some more questions.

as far as accessories that go with the turbo.planing on but not sure. a gt2871r .64 turbo or a .86 but the turbo housing shoulkd be the same. pretty much as far as cooling and oil.

what are the little things i will need to make this work? it says it Bolts on to stock manifold, turbo elbow and downpipe.

i am plnaing on stainless steel braided lines and reusing the rubber water pipe. but what other little thing will i nedd to make this work. and bolt together.
Modified by idahotuner at 10:48 AM 10/30/2007


Return to “240sx General Discussion”