Update: 240mm clutch

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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huguetpj
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So I'm out a couple of days and my thread gets locked... people trying to ridicule me? Nah that doesn't bother me and I didn't get a chance to read any of those "comments".

Anyway, update. The clutch is in, and man oh man... this thing doesn't grab it bites down hard. I'm now able to spin third at only 4PSI. The pedal is a bit on the heavy side but nothing I can't handle. Also the pedal engagement is too low so I need to adjust it.

I'm also having some wheel hop when starting slowly from a standstill but I'm pretty sure it's because I have a busted diff support and I'm not used to the new clutch.

I was gonna post some more pics but it seems 240sxonline.com is down for now.

When we where assembling the clutch assembly the diaphragm did not end up flat as it is supposed to be but instead it was bent down (widers pads + 1 diaphragm = 3.5mm over), so I had to have the flywheel resurfaced again, just the friction surface. I had it resurfaced when we first took it out about .1mm. Now the friction surface has been resurfaced another 3.5mm and the diaphgragm now sits very flat.

Plus when draining the transmission oil we found lots of metal shavings and a synchro stopper (translation?) so we had to disassemble the transmission to put the synchro back toghether.

Unfortunately I got stopped on the way to my house and my plates were removed cause I still ain't gone to inspection and thus haven't paid my circulation permit (translation?), and I start a new job on Monday, so my car will be garaged for at least a week before further testing can be performed.

Final costs:New KA truck pressure plate - $43Used 300zx pressure plate - $24Custom pressure plate screw rivets - $24Clutch disc (saw disc + pads + labor) - $74Flywheel work - $36Labor - $48

Total cost - $249


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aleph1
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Sweetness, Im glad this worked out for you (for now at least). I dunno why people would ridicule you. I think its cool for people to try new ideas and such to stick it to the "man" aka companies with overpriced parts. =)

TrunkMonkey
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Quote »The clutch is in, and man oh man... this thing doesn't grab it bites down hard. I'm now able to spin third at only 4PSI. The pedal is a bit on the heavy side but nothing I can't handle.[/quote]can you tell us what it feels like compared to other aftermarket clutches?

-demetrius

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huguetpj
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demcj wrote:can you tell us what it feels like compared to other aftermarket clutches?

-demetrius


Nope... haven't really tested cars with aftermarket clutches before, maybe clutch discs but no heavy duty pressure plates.

I can tell you that the tires get very loose when quickly upshifting to third (with a massive mani leak by the way) when before I could only loose the tires in second and very little.

The pedal feel is a bit on the hard side, I'm thinking because aftermarket heavy duty pressure plates have progressive diaphragms (I'm thinking kinda like my Eibach suspension springs) while I have two stock diaphragms.

One more thing, I should have resurfaced to 4mm to have the diaphragm lay a bit more flat and now the pedal engages down low. I'll have to either remove everything and resurface 0.5mm more :( or lenghten the clutch cylinder.

More testing will be performed once I can get my car to the track and fix the mani leak... maybe I'll loose the tires in fourth :D (crappy open diff :rolleyes )

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node
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huguetpj

Glad to hear it works. I love to see people going down the unbeaten path.

Couldent you adjust the freeplay all the way in and adjust the pedal up a bit?

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huguetpj
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node wrote:huguetpj

Glad to hear it works. I love to see people going down the unbeaten path.

Couldent you adjust the freeplay all the way in and adjust the pedal up a bit?


Is that procedure in the FSM? I'll take a look later to see what can be done. Right now I'm all tied up with my new work and getting my car plates back.

And now I found a serious leak between the mani and the turbo which won't go away by tightening the nuts, so I'm gonna have to take the mani out and have the flangers resurfaced.

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[s3]
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Quote from...Andrew Nonymous

"damn whata jackassits amazing i think how stupid somepepople can be in trying to make **** for themselveswhy doesnt he just go to local performance shop and buy one for about $300 form ACTand it takes about and hour to put in if you know what you're doing"

andrave
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an hour? even with a lift... that'd be a world record 240sx clutch change.I call BS.

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[s3]
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andrave wrote:an hour? even with a lift... that'd be a world record 240sx clutch change.I call BS.


If you know what you're doing, its really not that hard. Then again if you stuck in the stone age with hand tools and a screw driver it might take a little longer and a little harder.

It all depends on the equipment and the mechanic working on the car.

TrunkMonkey
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[s3] wrote:Quote from...Andrew Nonymous

"damn whata jackassits amazing i think how stupid somepepople can be in trying to make **** for themselveswhy doesnt he just go to local performance shop and buy one for about $300 form ACTand it takes about and hour to put in if you know what you're doing"
what was the purpose for posting this?

-demetrius

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[s3]
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demcj wrote:what was the purpose for posting this?

-demetrius


Oh nothing, its from another board. Just goes to show you, people visit this site from other boards.

This post about the home depot clutch has been traveling all thru the net.

My personal opinion on this matter, if it works...hey more power to ya, if it doesn't and it blows up and shreds his transmission, money heals all wounds.

Nathan
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I've seen it on other boards I go to as well...and told them all what I thought as well (its a viable alternative to a performance clutch, especially considering his location, the risks are low). huguetpj, congratulations and I hope you get that little issue worked out :)

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[s3]
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Nathan wrote:I've seen it on other boards I go to as well...and told them all what I thought as well (its a viable alternative to a performance clutch, especially considering his location, the risks are low). huguetpj, congratulations and I hope you get that little issue worked out :)


If I lived in a 3rd world country, I'd just own a horse hehe:D

1HP + mods

TrunkMonkey
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[s3] wrote:Oh nothing, its from another board. Just goes to show you, people visit this site from other boards.

This post about the home depot clutch has been traveling all thru the net.

i'm well aware of the popularity of huguetpj's "home made" clutch project. we've had quite a few visitors to this site since this began. i also frequent other boards and have read both positive and negative comments about this whole thing.

My personal opinion on this matter, if it works...hey more power to ya, if it doesn't and it blows up and shreds his transmission, money heals all wounds.

so why didn't you just give your own personal opinion from the start and not repeat someone else's ignorant remarks? you've contributed nothing to this topic. not even some decent negative criticism. i'd expect that from some of the outsiders that have decided to pop in here, but not from another nico member.

-demetrius

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[s3]
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I won't really go into detail as its been discussed at length by C-Kwik on another thread which has been closed.

But, the only concern I would have is the type of material the saw disc is made of and how its made.

Typical temperatures on a hard driven clutch can exceed many many hundreds of degrees, so much so that even flywheels are heat soaked and warp.

If the saw disc is a cheap steel cast one, it would be even worse. One it starts to heat up, it will basically disintegrate inside the transmission.

How often do you have your wood saw on? 2 continuous hours non stop in stop and go traffic? or how about 10 mins of brutal street racing with hard shifting? How about a 4k RPM clutch dump?

The ghetto mod will probably hold up for some time, but I doubt it will hold out longer than an OEM disc, either the disc will fall apart or the rivets holding the material in place will pop off.

Remember, if theres a cheaper way to do things...it will have already been manufactured in China and sold on ebay.

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aleph1
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Hey huguetpj, forget all these losers that buy into this whole "huge import scene markup", cuz they dont have the creativity and/or talent to pull off something like this. Fabbing your own parts shows class =)

Whether it works or not...I salute you sir! :patriot

TurboKA37
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why is everyone conserned about the saw blade? huguetpj already said that he has seen people use the same thing and have had success. saw discs are made to take a lot of heat. go take your circular saw and cut through a couple 2x8s and tell me if the blade is nice and cool.

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[s3]
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wood vs surface of a flywheel

Link to hot flywheel

http://www.roadraceengineering...t.jpg

You tell me how hot it gets to make those marks on a flywheel.

TurboKA37
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what? im not sure what your talking about

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[s3]
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Nevermind

http://www.howstuffworks.com

Look up "how clutches work"

TurboKA37
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i know how a clutch works. i was confused by your "wood vs. surface of a flywheel"

589 degrees is your answer

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[s3]
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well then, ever see a wood saw blade at 589 degrees?

TurboKA37
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yea, whats your point?

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[s3]
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Nevermind, you're a tool.

Mods please close this thread.

Nathan
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WTF? This thread got ruined because of YOU. Stop being a ****, this is evidently a PROVEN modification in Costa Rica, that means it's not cutting people's legs off (as if a failed clutch disk would anyway).

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aleph1
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LOL, close it? Why? Because you brought your craptastic attitude in here from the beginning and followed that up with a touch of condescent. This is about huguetpjs update, cheer him on for christ sake! You act like you WANT the "clutch" to explode and injure him.

TurboKA37
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alright lets stop argueing like thsi cuz thats what made the last thread locked. just wait and allow huguetpj to post updates when the time comes

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[s3]
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Time will tell, lets wait and see.

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huguetpj
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[s3] wrote:This post about the home depot clutch has been traveling all thru the net.


Really? Links please :pface

Nathan
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