up that age old creek, (again.......)

[busteds13]

also ive gots a genuine, from japan, instructions were in japanese, greddy front strut tower bar but its for an SR, anyone got one for a CA and wanna trade? it in good condishion, or if anyone has one for sale thad be cool too?

[Zero260]

you're boost gauge is supposed to read vacuum at idle, or partial throttle. if it's not changing when you rev the motor up, you might have a big leak somewhere.

also, a strut tower bar is designed to fit a chasis, not a motor, so one for an s13 will fit either motor.

[busteds13]

i know its gonna fit the s13 but the KA i had it on hit on the intake motors sit differently some higher than others, the SR sits lower than the KA so the bar dont hit it, the KA s little higher on the intake side so it hits a litlle, and the CA i cant fit it at all cuz the intake dont let it fit at all.

any help on the stublin issue?

[boost_boy]

i know its gonna fit the s13 but the KA i had it on hit on the intake motors sit differently some higher than others, the SR sits lower than the KA so the bar dont hit it, the KA s little higher on the intake side so it hits a litlle, and the CA i cant fit it at all cuz the intake dont let it fit at all.

any help on the stublin issue?

Check your coils, spark plugs, and definitely checks for leaks in your pipework. You have mail as well.............

Dee

[busteds13]

pypaled you, thanx again, ill check those tonight if i can, and i got brand new sparkplugs, can i just clean those if theyre messed up?

[busteds13]

no one thinks it needs to be timed to 10 degrees below?

[boost_boy]

no one thinks it needs to be timed to 10 degrees below?

People on here can say what they want, but over the course of 11 years, I have not seen my CA16DE engine, CA18DE engines, and CA18DET engines perform at nothing less than the 15 degrees specified by the factory and manuals. Run it at 10 degrees and I assure you that lump will be as lazy as can be.

Dee

[busteds13]

it does lump like a mother, and now wont go back to normal, it idles like a muscle car, japanese engines dont do that, and the thing is it ran kinda good before, and now it sux, im considering getting it towed to a shop, im frustrated and pissed. and shes still throwing me a knock sensor code, and i checked it according to the FSM, and the sensors working right, theres no leaks in the piping, and i havent touched the IAC valve,and the fuel pressure is right where it should be?

help oh gurus

[Zero260]

might be a problem with the knock sensor pigtail, or if you hadto wire the knock sensor, did you use sheilded wire?

[busteds13]

i didnt wire the knock sensor, i just plugged the CA lower harness into where the KA lower harness would go, and i checked the knock sensor and wiring according to the FSM instructions, and everything semmed to check out... thing is she ran fine for a bit then all went to s*** all of a sudden, and the plugs are new and clean, she sounds like shes running on two cylinders, and changing the timing helps a bit but not much, just makes the idle a bit faster

[busteds13]

anyone?

allright i figure ill set the timing to 15 degrees and double check everything, coils sparkplurs ignitor, ingectors and mebbey shell run, any other suggestions?

[busteds13]

I hope you guys havent given up on me due to all the dumba*s questions, is it possible that my gas is trash?, i dont have 93 in the tank, i might have the lowest octane actually, help please?

[busteds13]

oh and my boost gauge reads about 20 psi of vaccum, at what i kinda call idle, so no leaks in the piping.

[boost_boy]

Are you 200% sure your knock sensor is wired correctly? If it is not and the knock sensor wire is connected to something else, don't expect nothing less than isues.

Dee

[Zero260]

ccheck and see if it is running on 2 cyl. if it is, it might be coils or the ignitor, but I think the ignitor would cause it to not start. check all you're wires again, and make sure nothing looks fukced up

[busteds13]

i changed the sparkplugs, O2 sensor, and wired the greenyellow wire with the greenblack, from the CA harness, to the KA MAFS pigtail, retimed it, and doublechecked everything, and she ran, but not well, for a bit, then the good octane gas kicked in, she runs, but is still kinda lumpy, and hesitates throughout the powerband, atleast up to 4 grand, i took her over that and she blew off a coupler, so im stayin out of boost untill my IC gets here, But sometimes she just stumbles over herself, and gets no power. so she kinda works but still kina like poop, its not over yet, but she sounds good

[busteds13]

UPDATE: took her for a spin, given that i came from driving the tourqya** KA this thing has no low end, none, but as soon as that turbo kicks in, jesus, it literaly shoves you i the back of your seat, i almost soiled myself with happiness BOOST she still stumbles a bit here and ther, and sometimes doesent wanna quooperate, <- i mispelt that, could that be cus shes runnning rich? and does anyone know whether or not the ECU stays in self diagnosticmode#1 during normal driving, cuz i saw mine blinking green and the pattern would change, depending on the RPMs?