uh oh imroper torue on flywheel

[vboyq]

ok so i was doing the flywhell on the sr and i call my uncle who is a mechanic on all toyotasm hondas, nissans, you nkow the japanese cars.. so he tell me to bolt my flywheel down to about 65 lbs of torque, and i just read that a bunch of guys saying that you need to have about 95 lbs

is that gonna matter, i know thats a big difference, but it seemed that the flywheel was on there pretty good, not like it was gonna back out or anything. what do u guys think? is it ok

[DukeBoy]

I believe I torqued the same as you did no my friends sr20det. We have the shop manual for the s13 and I am pretty sure that is ok. I'll double check for you. If the other guys torqued it down too much, they are probably stretching the bolts and the could break.

[vboyq]

please do that cuz i am a little worried/afraid now... gonna be a pain to redo especially since everything is already in the car!

anyone else please feel free to drop a word or two, i need more input

[S14Life]

That should be fine. Like yo said, it's not like ot's going to pop off and anything really more will stretch the bolts

[robbbby]

Did you use some loctite at least on the threads?

[Hijacker]

According to my FSM, the bolts on the flywheel are 94-101 lb/ft, and the bolts for the driveplate (auto) are 61-69 lb/ft.

Last time I was working on a flywheel, I was told it wasn't necessary to torque them down to an exact number, as long as they were tight. On an aluminum flywheel, that would be different.

[vboyq]

no i didnt use any loktite on the threads wasn't aware i needed to? cmon people does it look like im in any trouble?

[msaskin]

Not to try and scare you, but I would definitely use loc-tite. I've seen the damage a flywheel can do when it lets go and it's not a pretty picture.

~matt

[Nathan]

I didn't use loctite...there was none on the threads as it came from the factory, I conclude...its not necessary.

[vboyq]

thats what i was thinking didn't have any from the factory... but now people are scaring me, i have read some other older posts about flywheels coming off at 8000rpm and ripping through the beelhousing and car.

[msaskin]

It's totally personal choice. I myself err on the side of paranoia at most times

~matt

[vboyq]

i wish i woulda thought of that, o well next time

[DukeBoy]

i just spent that last 3 hours at my friends house pulling the motor and trans out of the car to retorque the flywheel and clutch to the proper settings. the s13 fsm that we have is for the cadet motor and doesn't have the specs for the 96 s13 sr20det. so we retorqued them to the s14 specs for the sr20det which is about 94-101 lbs for the flywheels and about 33lbs for the clutch. the previous settings for the flywheel were about 79lbs and didnt feel much different but i'd rather be safe. just have to put the motor back in and start it up. it's up to you if you want to go through the hassle of taking everything out. it would pobably take about 5-6 hours from start to finish if you have everything. at least now i can rest easier. good luck

[msaskin]

It shouldn't take that long. I can drop an SR transmission in about an hour now, probably faster if I didn't take my sweet-*** time while working on cars, what, with friends and beer usually around

~matt

[DukeBoy]

It shouldn't take that long. I can drop an SR transmission in about an hour now, probably faster if I didn't take my sweet-*** time while working on cars, what, with friends and beer usually around

~matt

I'm not talking about dropping just the transmission. I am talking about disconnecting the wiring harness, vacuum lines, radiator, intercooler and pulling out the motor and trans together; pulling the trans off the motor, take the clutch off and retorque the bolts, put the clutch back on and reconnect the trans in 3 hours. the blacktop sits too far back on the firewall to drop the transmission while its in the car. i think this was far easier.

[nismostate]

yup. I agree. pull the motor out. sounds like a pain in the *** but its a whole lot easier with the motor out. just make sure this time you get EVERYTHING checked out before you put the motor back in; rear main seal, front main seal, head gasket, etc. I even took my whole intake manifold off and cleaned it. it was corroded real bad. get the FSM if you don't have it.

[msaskin]

I'm not talking about dropping just the transmission. I am talking about disconnecting the wiring harness, vacuum lines, radiator, intercooler and pulling out the motor and trans together; pulling the trans off the motor, take the clutch off and retorque the bolts, put the clutch back on and reconnect the trans in 3 hours. the blacktop sits too far back on the firewall to drop the transmission while its in the car. i think this was far easier.

ohhhh...gotcha. I wasn't aware the blacktop sat any further back than a redtop does.

~matt

[vboyq]

o not to worry i got new frnot/rear main seals, and i plan on stikin w. t25 for awhile, when i get a bigger turbo ill get the headgasketthanks for the input though

[lofapoo]

ohhhh...gotcha. I wasn't aware the blacktop sat any further back than a redtop does.

~matt

I don't see why.. or how it should. They are the exact same motor just with a different colored valve cover and some very minor changes, nothing to have the motor sit back further than its sister. Maybe different motor mounts?

[Hijacker]

ohhhh...gotcha. I wasn't aware the blacktop sat any further back than a redtop does.

~matt

it doesn't. you can work on the fywheel with the block still in the car, but it is a bit easier to work on the flywheel with the motor out of the car. Especially if you don't have a lift to work with. I look at it this way: 6 one way, half a dozen the other.

[msaskin]

Sounds right. I've always done it with the engine in the car. All my work was on red-tops, so when DukeBoy mentioned about pulling the motor and a black-top, something didn't seem right

~matt

[vboyq]

it doesn't. you can work on the fywheel with the block still in the car, but it is a bit easier to work on the flywheel with the motor out of the car. Especially if you don't have a lift to work with. I look at it this way: 6 one way, half a dozen the other.

what do u mean "6 one way, hald a dozen the other" anyway half a dozen is 6

[msaskin]

what do u mean "6 one way, hald a dozen the other" anyway half a dozen is 6

have you honestly never heard that expression before?

"six of one, half a dozen of the other""same difference"

i.e.; whichever way you choose, it's pretty much the same

~matt

[vboyq]

no i haven't but i see now what he meant.. like, "to each his own"

[vboyq]

i was thinking about it and is 30 lbs really that big of a deal, i mean the bolt was already tight so 30 lbs must be like maybe 1 more turn of the bolt, right?

[nismostate]

well when one loosens, it will begin to vibrate causing the others to do the same. think about it 7000 rpm is fast.

[vboyq]

while that is true, like i said is 30 lbs relly that big of a difference? considering thats probably not more than even one turn of the bolt, i mean the bolts are in their tight i don't think they are gonna come out at all. but when i get the chance i will tighten the rest of them.

[msaskin]

30 ft-lbs is a hell of a lot of difference in torque.

Hell, it's it's 50% more than you currently have it torqued.

~matt

[jameson is dope]

personally speeking (and this is how the real world of working on cars goes) hit that **** with the impact ***** loctite and torque specs on a stock flywheel! its better to be too tight than too loose!! dont sweat it!

[nismostate]

personally speeking (and this is how the real world of working on cars goes) hit that **** with the impact ***** loctite and torque specs on a stock flywheel! its better to be too tight than too loose!! dont sweat it!

agreed. you may sleep easy now:pface