turbo bearings/seals destroyed WHILE using an oil restrictor?!?!?!

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Jookmasta
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well the ss line was actually priced reasonable. it was only 50 bux and is warrantied for the life of the line................weird thing is that my 7 ft. ss oil feed line was only 5 bux cheaper lol. these are custom made of course.


consaka
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MarkEmark wrote:
You guys seem to be missing the point. It's not the oil's fault, it's not the size of my feed-line's fault, it's the oil restrictor's fault, by not flowing enough oil through the turbo causing it to coke under hot temperatures. (NO RESTRICTOR). Again, NOT the oil's fault.


Actually I have seen this many times with pennzoil and Valvoline. especially if they are not rated for Turbos. You have taken two steps as a resolution to this problem so you will never know and neither will we because you didnt tell us what brand and specs the oil was.The interesting thing is the affinity for the drain line. I am suspicious that it passes really close to the exhaust manifold to cause that serious of coking. Even for cheap breakin oil thats serious coking. If it does I would suggest an extra shield AND wrapping the drain line to insulate it from the heat.


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WDRacing
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Dude...resize the fvcking pictures....

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480sx
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It has very little to do with the brand of oil man. Its all about the flash point of the oil itself, as well as.. I cant remember the term for it right now, but its basically the amount of residue left behind when burning. Regardless of brand, a low flash point is going to cause more coking than an oil with a higher flash point.

Basically what your saying is that those two brands of oil your mentioning have a low flash point. Or, more likely, those brands of oil are used more often than other dino oil. Conventional oil is limited to a lower flash point than that of synthetics, and leaves more garbage behind when burned.

In addition, there really is no oil that is bad for a turbo. O/C ideally you want the highest flash point, IIRC AMSOIL full synth is in the low-mid 400d range which is about the highest you can get. The cost of such oil keeps most people away.

Coking occurs during turbo misuse. You can use the best oil or the worst oil, if you dont time your turbo after a hot run or you over spin it, it will coke and eventually ruin your turbo. These pictures and this thread were the result of over oiling, or under draining. It doesnt mater what type of oil you use, in this situation you WILL get coking no mater what.

EDIT - This failure was obviously an obstructed drain line from the turbo. Cant stress this enough guys, get your drain lines done right or dont do it at all.

EDIT 2 - Lol i read the first post.. Excessive oil pressure wont hurt the bearings at all. Excessive oil pressure CAN lead to oil backing up in the turbo(if your drain isnt 100 percent). When this happens, oil will be pushed past the sealing ring on the shaft, and you will either get oil in your compressor housing, or in your turbine housing. It will also cause your spool time to be slightly slower than that of a turbo with correctly adjusted oil pressure. More resistance to the shaft spinning.
Modified by 480sx at 2:58 PM 5/22/2008

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WDRacing
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consaka wrote:

Actually I have seen this many times with pennzoil and Valvoline. especially if they are not rated for Turbos. You have taken two steps as a resolution to this problem so you will never know and neither will we because you didnt tell us what brand and specs the oil was.The interesting thing is the affinity for the drain line. I am suspicious that it passes really close to the exhaust manifold to cause that serious of coking. Even for cheap breakin oil thats serious coking. If it does I would suggest an extra shield AND wrapping the drain line to insulate it from the heat.
I just realized that this thread is 2 years old. WTF? Don't bump threads that are this old, MarkEMark doesn't even visit much anymore if ever.

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Odem2002
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I would like to post that as I have been a mechanic for 10 years, Penzoil is one of the worst oils on the market. I have seen like a 92 dodge caravan the old guy ran nothing but penzoil and it gums up the engine so bad it actually locked his motor up preventing it from starting. We took the valve cover off seen all the grime cleaned and flushed crankcase and it started. I have also seen a guy with an early 90's s-10 that is hooked on penzoil doesnt run anything else. He brought his own 5qt container we changed his oil and when we busted the seal of the container and started to pour the new oil in it was water. We poured the container in a bucket to find out that like 80% of the NEW 5Qt container of penzoil was water. So in conclusion I would have no doubt in my mind that the issue would be the type of oil causing oil crystals, especially under high heat of 125,000 rpm turbos. I wouldnt put that stuff in my lawn mower.


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