So long as they are just charging you the labor to remove the old clutch and install a new clutch (perhaps with a flywheel resurfacing if it can be done) then I'd just pay to have the clutch done. You would have to pay a lot more if they had to remove the transmission on your dime to replace the clutch.
joe603 wrote:Here's the clutch I'm getting:
http://www.forgedperformance.c...age=1
It's a "stage 4" clutch that will handle up to 500HP. So if I do go FI, it will handle it. The guys at Forged Performance recommended the kit over the JWT one. They say that this one will not chatter as bad as the others ones either.
Do you actually have a need for such an aggressive clutch? The take up on a clutch like that is generally aggressive and the metallic surface is likely to wear out the flywheel and pressure plate sooner. I'd imagine the organic liners in a clutch designed for the VQ will be able to handle near stock power just fine. There are plenty of companies that make organic clutch kits that are designed for higher clamping loads as well.
Also, if the photo in that link is accurate, then its a sprung hub on the clutch disc. My understanding is the VQ's disc is solid and torsional vibrations are absorbed by the dual mass flywheel. If both are sprung, then it's likely you will have to compress both sets of springs before any measurable amount of torque can be applied to the drivetrain. I'd speculate it might feel sloppy. Though, it could be a reason less drivetrain chatter is heard...
fbpem1 wrote:This is the kind of attitude i HATE i think its appauling that customers think everything is the factorys fault YOU have to take SOME responsibility for actions taken with the car and what you have done with it and to it. If you can't do that you need to grow up.
That depends. Consider the G was branded as a performance car. It should be able to handle a reasonable amount of spiritied driving. To say a customer is arbitrarily at fault for a mechanical failure is absurd. If you were the one making the repairs and you saw evidence of abuse and such, then fine. But you are not making the repairs on this car, nor do you have the parts of this car sitting on front of you to be evaluated. And while its not my place to tell you how to do your job, conmsider that without us consumers, you would have no job at your current place of employment. Not to mention, if the car was built in such a manner that it could never break down, you'ld be out of a job.
fbpem1 wrote:40k car....needs trans....what about 200k+ ferrari's that blow the engine at 3 thousand miles and you don't have a warranty. just becuase the car costs 40k dosn't mean its bulletproof dosn't mean its going to take everything you throw at it. you have a mix of a sports car (i also use that term loosley) and a luxery car. So that trans is NOT the strongest out there it will NOT take everything you throw at it esspecially if you flat foot it, banging gears all the time, its going to happen you gotta pay to play i blew my trans in my car and i was half expecting to pay for it or split cost with the dealer since it was suspected abuse i admitted to them that i dog the car everynow and again but since i was open and honest with them they didn't care pretty much and rebuilt mine under warranty, keep in mind this was at 13,000 miles, and the trans i am talking about costs considerably more money than a G35 trans, about $6,500 out the door parts alone with a new trans.
That's a lot of assumptions you are making.
fbpem1 wrote:I have a theory on the exhaust and heres why i think they are charging you since you have a aftermarket exhaust i don't knw what kind it is i don't know if its an H pipe or a Y pipe but you know aftermarket stuff can break when you take it off maybe your bolts are all crap and maybe they will break off in your cat (if you have them) and they have to be drilled out thats a pain in the ***. The dealer is covering THIER *** because we are much more worried about corperate being pissed off at us than 1 customer, becuase a wearable item (clutch) needs to be replaced and your trans is shot dosn't mean the product is crap might also mean that you don't drive correctly.
So why not write a disclaimer into the work order such that IF something goes wrong with that part due to no error on the part of the tech, then the customer is charged for any additional labor and parts required to complete the job? My thought is the dealer is trying to make a quick buck in hoping that the customer will be to naive to realize that the labor is the same either way. If it wasn't, why wouldn't they simply point that out to begin with and charge the appropriate amount of labor over what Nissan allows?
fbpem1 wrote:i know this came off quite d*ckish but oh well this attitude in a customer i can't stand they feel entilted to something and refuse to pay when it could be THIER fault. I just had this conversation with a customer today and when he saw things from my point of view and the dealers and compared them to his own, wow low and behold HE was the one being unreasonable.
Each warranty issue is case by case. Treat it as such. Lumping everyone into one category is basically making a huge assumption. In one case it could be the owner's fault. Then again, it may not be. Perhaps you just needed to vent about your own experiences, but you imply Joe was the cause (at least partly) without being able to make a first hand assessment of the situation. Unless you are some kind of a super tech who can diagnose root causes of failures over the internet. Not to say that you can't make generalizations, but you appear to be targetting a specific person in a specific scenario.
Sentientbydesign wrote:They do have ring issues, but the dealers seem to know/believe that the consumption itself is caused by engine braking. I'm assuming the logic is that you'd have a vacuum on the combustion side of the ring.
Rings should be sealing regardless. Under vacuum, the rings would be pulled by the vacuum against the cylinder walls and the top of the ring land. Assuming the ring to cyulinder wall seal is good, then there should not be any excessive oil consumtion occuring due to vacuum alone. High vacuum will of course pull oil through a bad seal, but it shouldn't be a cause of the failure itself.
