Transmission flare update!!!!! Anyone with transmission issues similar please read!!!

[Towncivilian]

What type of fluid was used for the service?

What is the transmission fluid level and condition?

1. Drive around for 10 minutes in the city after the transmission is at operating temperature.
2. Park on a level surface and apply the parking brake.
3. With P selected, shift through every gear and return to P.
4. Pull the transmission dipstick with the engine idling, wipe it clean, reinsert it completely, and read the level. It must be within the notched area labeled "HOT". Check for fluid contamination after wiping on a paper towel.



The fluid should be red, and not smell burnt.

Lubegard Red is a transmission additive that is well lauded by many transmission shops as well as backed by several manufacturers for certain transmissions. It can help mitigate slower shifts and lower overall transmission fluid temperature. I use it in my Pathfinder's transmission and in my experience it has smoothed certain shifts, especially in and out of downshifts. NAPA and Amazon sells Lubegard Red. I would suggest trying this additive - it is the only additive I would recommend for a transmission.

[2537buzz]

Well, my Nissan Mechanic hooked up the computer and ran it and nothing comes back bad. The right trans fluid was used, during flush. Like many of you, no one seems to know why the flaring when first starting out. The truck is absolutly perfect, other then having to warm it up good, and baby it the firs t10 minutes, after that no issues. I mentioned cleaning the mac sensor and changing the fule filter and the success a few have had with that and he said it has nothing to do with it. The fule filtwr is after market so it was changed at some point. The truck was well maintained, so just not sure. We are foing to change the fuel filter anyway and also clean the mac sensor and see. I don't know with so many with the sme issue maybe this is just normal. Question here is how long on your truck has it veen going on, and has anything else occured? I think I read someone said theres ha been doinf it almost two years and nothing came of it. What do you guys think. I love this truck and would hate to have anything happen to it. It is just beautiful, looks new and srives great other then this little thing. Also off topic anyone know how to post pictures? Thanks.

[donald]

I bought my Q in 2011 with 152k miles.
I now have driven it to 190k+ miles.

I've had the transmission flare from 1-2 and 2-3 since I've had my Q.
I should mention I usually park my truck in the garage, I live in central california, so the coldest it really gets is 32'f at night.

I usually just drive easy for about 2 mi before getting on it.

[2537buzz]

Thanks Donald for your reply. I wanted to say to everyone how happy I am to have found this forum. I do not know how many women are on here, but I'm a chick but totally love this forum and learning. I had the Pathy at a reputable transmission place, just for my piece of mind. I was a wreck, worrying that I spent eight grand on a beautiful mint truck, had it a month and would have to put another three grand for a trans. The good news is the trans guy felt what we are all talking about but he said he did not feel it warranted enough to worry about it. We will take the wait and see approach, and he said off the record it will probably be fine. We did find that the oil pan, was pretty pitted and would need. To be replaced soon. Kind of upsetting considering I just had an oil change done and my mechanic of 10 years. Never said a word. I slid under just to see and snapped a pic and in deed it was on pretty crappy condition, but at 100,000 miles that is to be expected especially on the shore. I was happy to hear foe the third time, three diff mechanics tell me how well maintained this truck was kept:). Now when the oil pan is replaced I am also going to have the fule filter changed. The mechanic felt that the MAF sensor did not really beed to be cleaned, but with all the reading here I would feel better doing it. Hubby, is getting adventurous and would like to try to clean it himself like many on here have. Can anyone give me a link that would give step by step on how to clean it and what to use to clean it? I would really appreciate it. Not sure of cost, but to replace the oil pan and change the fule filter, it is foing to be just around $400. I read here it only takes ten minutes to change the fule filtwr, but this mechanic says like an hour and that you have to do so ethi g with the pressure in the lines. Does this all sound about right? This is my first Pathfinder, we actually bought it for our son who will be driving next month, but I am getting rather attatched to it. LOL. Anyway, just do not want to get hosed on repairs and figured you guys would know if all of this is about right. Again, would appreciate if anyone has a link for step by step directio s on how to clean the Maf sensor. Thanks again for such great people and great forum. Elaine

[Datsundimeguy]

Hey guys I have the TSB from Infiniti regarding this shift flare issue. I will have to figure out how to scan it in and display it for everybody. But, the TSB you are looking for is: ITB01-051a

I used to work at Infiniti and I own an '01 QX4 they are the same as a Pathfinder (JR-50).

I hope this helps...

[donald]

Hey guys I have the TSB from Infiniti regarding this shift flare issue. I will have to figure out how to scan it in and display it for everybody. But, the TSB you are looking for is: ITB01-051a

I used to work at Infiniti and I own an '01 QX4 they are the same as a Pathfinder (JR-50).

I hope this helps...

I don't think anyone doubts the existence of a TSB (actually 2 TSBs , ITB01-051A and -051) regarding this issue
Unfortunately, it seems the government doesn't seem to require manufacturers to address TSB's. In my opinion, the TSB is just as its name suggests... a "bulletin" or memo, if you will, saying that the government/NHTSA has received and documented concerns from the consumer market.

So, although many of us have experienced the issue, I guess it still hasn't proven to be a significant enough issue to call it a "defect", "malfunction", or deteriorating issue affecting the overall performance of the vehicle.
And truthfully.... I personally don't think it's a deteriorating issue.
I've driven just under 50,000 miles as 2nd owner of this truck (01 QX4) and the transmission is still working just the same as 50,000 miles ago.

I've just recently changed out my ATF (after about 50,000 mi) and I didn't find anything too bad with the fluid. Although, perhaps all the metal shavings (if any) were collected by the filter.

I will say this though.... it is extremely ANNNOYING!
but being annoying isn't something the manufacturer is obligated to "repair"

just my opinion, of course.

[donald]

... Lubegard Red is a transmission additive that is well lauded by many transmission shops as well as backed by several manufacturers for certain transmissions. It can help mitigate slower shifts and lower overall transmission fluid temperature. I use it in my Pathfinder's transmission and in my experience it has smoothed certain shifts, especially in and out of downshifts. NAPA and Amazon sells Lubegard Red. I would suggest trying this additive - it is the only additive I would recommend for a transmission.

I use Amsoil.
I know... I've said I don't believe in "secret potion fix-it" fluids... but, the experiements and comparisons show that Amsoil holds up pretty well under high temps, and as I'm told by more experienced A/T folks, heat is what kills an A/T.

And, of course Amsoil is not an additive, rather it IS the ATF.
a 2gallon jug of Amsoil Synthetic ATF is about $110, which comes out to be just over $13/qt.
and, most would buy the 2g jug, since it a simple drain/re-fill takes up about ~3quarts... and I assume most folks will want to do the 4x drain/re-fill "exchange" method to try to get as much of the new Amsoil in there anyhow...

Conventional ATF Mercon4 is about $5-7/qt
Synthetic Mobil-1 ATF is $10/qt

[Zymol75]

I have never had this issue and I have had the truck in my fam since new at 14 miles. My dad and I are the only ones who ever owned it and I've always done all the work to it. So I know the following to be true.

Every 60k the trans fluid and filter was changed with Nissan brand parts bought at Nissan.
Every year the intake was cleaned with a BG brand induction service kit. MAF has never been cleaned.
The rear diff fluid changed with 75w90 Castrol Sytec Blend (specified by Nissan as a direct swap fluid) gear oil every 60k.
Only ever used Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1 full synthetic oil every 5k and Fram 6x filter.
Never had the Radiator trans internal leak that so many have had.
Only ever used original standard green radiator coolant. (none of that "all makes all models" crap)
Only ever used the Nissan DEXRON 3 approved fluids for the power steering. (this stuff is highly specific)

The reason I say all that is this: I have never had trans flare. not even a little bit. I drive this truck hard. I drive fast and I carry a lot of crap. I tow things all the time and probably way to much for the ability of the trans. It has been to upper Manhattan from Florida 2x with full uhaul in tow. I am pushing 236k miles and only recently has the trans started to not engage to drive from park at cold startup. After it warms up (fluid expansion) it shifts solid and hard. no hanging, no slips, and precise. I can even chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift under high rpm.

Something to remember with all the fluids and such is that the clutch packs in an automatic trans are saturated with the fluid at initial fill and they are a friction material that without fluid are not very viscous. If that fluid gets swapped or mixed, the nature of the chemicals in the various fluids can have an adverse affect on the friction material attached to the clutch pack discs. If the right chemical contacts this friction material it can cause it to break down, even if only a minute amount and then it goes all around the trans floating in the fluid. Magnets don't help this, as it is not a metal particle. This material dust can clog a fluid solenoid and allow a partial or complete blockage/restriction of flow and this will make the "shift" hang, bang, go open (flare) or engage/lock and ultimately break something in the vent of a lock condition. If gear 2 were to be signaled to open but was locked from a blockage and then 3 gets the go ahead and also engages you have a "lock". If 2 gets the release signal and opens and 3 gets the go ahead and delays due to fluid blockage and lack of pressure from this debris you get the open rev (flare) and the increase in pressure spike from that rev causes the fluid to force through and then 3 engages.

See the issues? Maybe sticking with a/the specified set of fluids wouldn't have been such a bad idea. Parts stores just wanna move product, they don't care what... and actually they do, really... as the brand manufacture gives kickbacks and bonuses for moving certain items. Unless u are building a ground up trans or engine or whatever and can select the fluid for the unique application of the system, I would say to lean towards the specified fluid or the exact replacement that meets the design criteria. As owners we may be making our own problems worse trying to fix what never needed fixing to begin with.

Just some thoughts from someone who hasn't had the problems and has always worked by the book. (at least with this car brand)

[Towncivilian]

The power steering fluid specifies Dexron III in the factory service manual, but just about any fluid will work. There's nothing specific about the lubrication needs of our power steering system - it's not a Honda with proprietary fluid, nor is it something tough on fluid like a Saginaw power steering pump. Any synthetic ATF claiming to meet Dexron III specifications will work just fine. Synthetic ATF will provide better cold weather performance and lowered operating temperatures.

I also think Matic D is nothing particularly special; IIRC it's Dexron III with some additional friction modifiers. Since Dexron III(H) is an unlicensed fluid as of several years ago and technically fluids that claim to meet Dexron III specifications might have their own interpretation of those specifications, however, it's not a bad idea to stick to Matic D since the fluid is guaranteed to meet Nissan's specifications.

[Zymol75]

Exactly right. Dexron 3 has many equivalents. It doesn't have to say Nissan, just has to be compatible as in "meets or exceeds manufacturers"... blahblahblah. I use a product by Redline that has the qualifying spec on it list of approvals. It actually costs more than the Nissan stuff but I got it in a case of 30 on a piggyback order at my shop and paid less than half buying in bulk. My system has never leaked or made noise.

When I say specific I just mean that you can't throw any old red DEX in with it. That happens so much, in so many shops... You'd be amazed how many shops just use "the red stuff" as it's what they buy in bulk, and if the trans or other system fails... well then they get to repair it at more expense to the customer. That burns me up so much. I've had more fights with the 'boss' over the proper fluids and compatibility that I seriously have no respect for managers any more. The worst part is when I know people who have been burned by this type of practice, I feel obligated to try and help and it just makes me hate the career more.

Protect yourselves, friends. Knowledge is your sharpest spear. Some shops and their dirty, dishonest mechanics have an arsenal. Make sure you do too.

[Towncivilian]

What's worse are the shops that use the cheapest transmission fluid they can find and then dump in a "conversion" additive (i.e. Lubegard Platinum) that would "convert" the fluid to the required type (i.e. to ATF+4). While it might work, it's not exactly ideal... I'd recommend Lubegard Red (non-conversion additive which I described in the first post of this page) in an older transmission that specifies Dexron III(H), but for more modern transmissions specifying newer fluids like Dexron VI, Mercon V/LV, or ATF+4 I would not use any additives at all.

Dexron VI, Mercon V/LV, and ATF+4 are all licensed fluids so even store-brand/house-brand fluids have to meet the minimum specifications of the manufacturers. I would not hesitate to use a store-brand fluid in an application which requires a licensed fluid; I'd gladly use SuperTech Dexron VI when I perform a full fluid exchange on my girlfriend's 2009 Pontiac G5 which specs Dex VI.

For older vehicles that specify Dexron III(H), OEM fluid or Mobil ATF D/M (available at Target) which meets the Allison TES-389 specification is what I would strongly recommend. TES-389 is basically Allison's version of Dex III(H), which was the latest revision of Dex III. As far as I know, TES-389 matches the Dex III(H) specs and is licensed, so you can be assured that the fluid meets specifications.

Theoretically, Dex VI is back-specified to be usable in transmissions calling for any previous Dexron ATF. Dex VI is very shear-stable and its viscosity starts out at around where a DexIII(H) fluid would shear to after some time in service. I'm still weary of trying it in my Pathfinder, though. I'd use it as power steering fluid maybe (current fill is Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, the old formulation that meets Dexron III(H) standards).

Currently, I run Castrol Import Multi-Vehicle ATF (since renamed to Castrol Transmax Import) with good results in my Pathfinder. It is recommended for use where Matic D is specified and meets many other Asian manufacturers' ATF specifications. It is similar to a Dex III(H) fluid in terms of additives and viscosity ranges (both starting and "sheared" viscosity minimum, both cold & at operating temperature).

[04Maxi]

So I am looking at an 04 Nissan Maxima SL with the RE4F04B 4 spd automatic transmission....does anyone know if these transmissions in the Maximas have been having problems???....Thanks!!!

[attofarad]

>So I am looking at an 04 Nissan Maxima SL with the RE4F04B 4 spd automatic >transmission....does anyone know if these transmissions in the Maximas have been >having problems???....Thanks!!!


I suggest that you post in the Maxima forum, or search the Maxima TSBs. By 2004, I'm pretty sure that the Pathfinder problem had been fixed, since the two TSBs came out well before that.

[donald]

every time I see an email indicating an update in this A/T flare thread, I get a little excited, thinking that someone has found a solution or a recall officially announced (slim chance, of course)
:p