Timing ussues, need opinions.

[damesta]

I am having problems with the timing on my CA, it says I am at 10 degrees using the high tension wire method and my timing light with idle at 850 rpm, this is where it was set when I got the engine. It runs fine, not rich and it definitly doesn't feel retarded 5 degrees. I check the a/f mixture in mode I and II on the ecu and everythings good, its flashing more than 10 times in 9 seconds like its suppossed to be. So, I go ahead and adjust it until it reads 15 degrees, car doesn't feel any different really, still drives fine, no pinging, etc. Then I check the a/f mixture in mode I and II on the ecu and its way out of wack and doesn't blink like its suppossed to at all. So I'm guessing the 10 degree original setting was right, adjusted it back and the a/f mixture is good again. Ive checked my light on other cars and its accurate, the only explanation I can think of is that the marks on the pulley are off. Any opinions?
Modified by damesta at 10:11 PM 2/1/2006

[ragenasian]

Mine after the head rebuild is at 11 and I can't figure it out either. Runs great so I left it alone (haven't checked my ecu as of yet). If you figure anything out let me know also.

[damesta]

I'm not getting any codes or anything, it just bugs the hell out of me, its the only inconsistency with this engine I can't figure out.

[damesta]

BTW, anyone have a crank pulley that they know the marks are accurate on for sale? Stock or aftermarket, let me know.

[damesta]

Allright guys, got some more info, somebodys got to know somthing about this. Everything has been double checked, the pulley marks are accurate, the belt is on correctly, not off a tooth, have checked the cam timing and made sure everything lines up. My engine came straight from japan in very good condition, had timing service done by nissan there, still had the genuine nissan sticker over one of the cas bolts to show the timing hadn't been changed and its set at 10 degrees btdc and runs great. My crank pulley is accurate and the second mark lines up with tdc on the cam pullies. The funny thing is my crank pully has 6 marks like normal, all have the white paint except for the 0 and 10 degree marks which have the orange paint nissan usually uses on the 0 and 15 degree marks. Ive checked the a/f on the ecu in mode 1 and 2 and its good. I tried advancing it to 15 and it still ran fine but the cas is rotated almost all the way counter clockwise and there is no noticable hp gain, also, the a/f mixture in mode 1 and 2 are really off and showing that its leaning out.

So, it really seems like my CA is suppossed to be timed at 10 degrees. So this is weird, other people have had this specific problem as well and no one has come up with a good explanation, kinda go's hand in hand with all the people that have their cas' rotated almost totally counter clockwise to hit 15 degrees. The euro fsm clearly says 15 degrees but there are many resources online that say stock ignition timing is 10 degrees for the det and 15 for the de, those resources all come from japan, NZ, and Australia. After doing alot of searching a ran accross a couple things that say there is different information in different versions of the fsm and that the jdm(japanese language version) of the fsm says 10 degrees btdc is the factory ignition timing spec.

So, does anyone have any info on this? Have any of you guys with your cas rotated almost all the way counter clockwise checked your a/f mixture in mode 1 and 2? How did it check out?

[damesta]

Well, I guess I'll keep updating this thread until the problem is solved, since it doesn't look like anyone can help me, lol. Maybe it will be able to help somone in the future.

So, the timing issue is going on hold for a little bit until I make sure I'm not having fuel pressure problems from running on the stock ka pump. I have a walbo 255 and an adjustable fpr with a fuel pressure gauge on the way. I do have a theory on what the problem is though.

After replacing my O2 and rewiring it to make sure the signals good I started to monitor its output with a voltage meter instead of mode 2 on the ecu. This has proved how lean I'm running at both 10 and 15 degrees, not to mention the white spark plugs. I think the ka pump is clogged or dying or somthing. The O2 output is fine at idle and up to 1600 rpm but as soon as I pass that mark I start to lean out so bad the 02 isn't even really registering it, it will only output maybe .01-.05 volts anywhere above 1600 rpm, under 1600 the voltage is fine, varying from .25 to .75 or so.

So, the only thing I can think of that makes since is the fuel system, my guess is that the ka pump is good enough to supply the 40 psi or so I need to get up to 1600 rpm but as soon as I get over that it can't keep up with the fuel pressure requirements, the ecu is trying to compensate for the really lean o2 readings over 1600 by raising the fuel pressure as much as it can and as soon as I let off the gas and drop under 1600 rpm I get o2 readings at .85 to .95 (running really rich) for a few seconds until it realizes the o2 is sending it normal readings again. Well, it makes since to me anyway, I guess I'll see when the new stuff gets here.

When this fuel issue gets resolved I'll be able to make a much better decision on the timing. Any opinions are welcome.

[damesta]

If your having the same problem check out this thread for more info on my timing issues:

zer...58962

[bias]

I know this is an old thread but "Damesta" you f-ckin "Rock"! thanks for taking the journey first!