Timing? other problems? dont know

[jej23]

Ok so I just finished up my swap and I have been trying to get the damn car to idle for like a month now. It starts up and will only run if you give it gas, as soon as youlet off it dies. Now i figured timing, what marks do you line up on the crank when your timing with a light, cause i tried 2 from the left and from the right and still nothing, and i know that it is timed good from crank to cams cause i just redid that last week. Also when it does rev up its running extremely rich. And i tried turning the idle air control and it didnt do anything. So anyone with infomation please help. Thanks Jesse

[S13FASTBACKSR]

timing should be the second mark from the right. the very first mark on the left is negative degrees then the second is 0 then you have 5 10 15 and 20..put it at 15. also take out your idle adjustment screw and clean the inside with carb cleaner. you can also spray inside of it to clean it (look on here for corey240's post on how to clean the IACV it should be on this page he just wrote it) also when you rev the engine how does it act?

[jej23]

When you rev it its sounds like its kinda missing, but there wa a time where it did rev up and it would only go to like 4500 and then it would hold there. I was told that you have to unlpug the TPS and then get the motor to operating temp and it was a process you had to follow. I timed it yesterday and its on the second from the right but there is no base idle.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

yes some people do it like that, I dont and it works fine. I dont unplug the tps i just set the timing and it comes out fine. If you want to do it by the fsm then heres how you do it. With the engine off unplug the tps. then start the engine and let it warm up to operating temperature. Sit there in neutral with your foot on the gas sitting at about 2krpm for about 2 minutes. Then after that raise the rpms to about that speed again 2 or 3 times (not holding it there, just hitting that rpm and letting off.) Now run the engine for about 1 minute at idle speed then go ahead and check/ set the timing.Also..IACV's dont cause missing they just cause bad idle. Something you may want to check into is the tps and maf if the timing checks out ok.

[jej23]

there was a time when i had the timing set so that is would rev perfect but would not idle, so anything over like 1k it would run great but lower than that it would die. Well i adjusted the timing and now it wont run like that at all. So ill put the timing back to where i had it and ill clean the iac and go from there. And anymore info you think of would be great i appreciate the help

[S13FASTBACKSR]

ya if your timing is where it should be but you are still having problems then it cant be your problem..If the car drives, accelerates and revs smoothly then its probably your IACV being dirty or bad. If cleaning it doesnt help then check the resistance of it. You do this by noticing the cylinder shaped piece of the IACV it has 2 wires going to it. The top wire is where you should place your positive needle and the bottom wire is where you should place your ground. You should have approxiamately a resistance of 10

[IanS]

could you give us a list of your mods

[jej23]

Sr20det, megan manifold, greddy rocker stoppers, front mount intercooler, hks BOV, z32 ignitor, 255 walbro, aluminum radiator, 3 inch dump and down pipe, i think thats the most of it other than turbo timer and stuff like that

[highmilehatch]

Check to be sure that your injector O rings aren't torn. If it's dumping fuel and refusing to idle it could be flooding out and stalling. Pull your plugs immediately after the car stalls and check each cylinder with a good light for fuel puddling inside the cylinders on top of the pistons, and a strong smell of fuel. Also make sure all of your coilpacks are firing. If they aren't, it's possible your injectors are ok, but one cylinder isn't getting spark and the injector is firing just dumping fuel in that cylinder.

[jej23]

Yes to get it to start i have to pull the fuel pump fuse and then plug it back in when it starts to die. Also i was just out there and the timing marks are all way right of the indicator pin on the block, so i dont know what this means, and it is running way rich, filling my garage with 93 octane and this is not good at 4 dollars a gallon, lol. So this is where im at now, it does not idle with the fuel pump fuse in, it will for a min with is out, and the timing marks are way off to the right when you use the timing light, and running way rich, but if you get it stay running enough to hit the gas it will rev up to like 4k.

[highmilehatch]

Did you check the injector O-rings? I had a similar issue with a customer car where I could pull the fuel pump fuse and unplug the injectors, and the car would run, and stay running because there was so much unburnt fuel inside the cylinder. Please do this to rule this out. If you can pull the fuel pump fuse and the car runs better, there is obviously a ton of unburnt fuel in the cylinders. If this continues, you will run the risk of washing down the cylinder walls with unburnt fuel. I'm willing to bet your oil stinks of fuel as well. Change it or it is possible to spin bearings due to the fuel contaminating the oil.

Second mark from left of crank pulley is 0 when no. 1 piston is at tdc.

Second mark form right is 15 degrees btdc which is where you want the timing marks to be when your setting ignition timing with timing light.

[jej23]

I have not checked the o rings, if there bad where do i get more, and how do i get the injectors out they seem stuck

[highmilehatch]

Pull the entire rail with the injectors still attached. Turn the car to the on position so the fuel pump primes and pressurizes the system. If you see fuel coming out from around the injectors, you've found your leak.

Have you pulled the plugs yet to check for puddling of fuel?

[jej23]

no have not pulled them out recently but i did last week and there was alot of wetness in the cylinders.

[highmilehatch]

no have not pulled them out recently but i did last week and there was alot of wetness in the cylinders.

That should tell you something... Fuel is getting into the cylinder when it's not supposed to, or there is no spark to ignite it. If you do the things I posted above, you can rule this out.

[corey240]

have you checked the ecu for codes? if not and you know how then do it and see what code you get, specificaly looking if its code 13. if its code 13 (which could solve your flooding problem) means 1 of the sensors is bad and it floods the motor and cant boost past 5 psi. other then that, i dont know, listen to everyone els.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

Make sure you do this test (pulling the fuel rail) because this way you can see with your own two eyes if its the injectors o-rings or the actual injectors which it definately seems to be one of the two for sure. I dont want you to replace the o-rings and still have the same problem and it turns out to actually have been the injectors.

[jej23]

Ok so i took the rail off and primed the system and there was no fuel coming out around the injectors, also the coolant temp sensor is brand new, so code 13 is not a problem, any other ideas

[S13FASTBACKSR]

so the o-rings are good ok...but did any of the injectors inject fuel longer than the others? If you pull your spark plugs again and see that 1 or 2 of them are a lot blacker than the others than usually that means that spark plugs injectors is stuck open too long hence its bad. say if #2 spark plug is a lot blacker than others then the #2 injector is bad

[jej23]

No i did not try turning the engine over i can do that right now now and see, and it look like all the plugs are black

[jej23]

All of the injectors pulse the same amount at the same time not one hangs over or looks out of sync, could the regulator be messed up for some reason letting just way to much fuel in??

[S13FASTBACKSR]

Yes another thing to consider is the fpr...just listen to its name..fuel pressure regulator..it regulates fuel pressure..if its not doing its job too much fuel will come into the engine at all cylinders..it will obviously cause richness and cause the engine to die out..you also said that when accelerating it is not smooth right? also when it dies out it will not immediately start back up without pulling the fuse correct?

[jej23]

Yes it will idle now but not very good, and i will restart will a few turn overs of the engine, when you try to give it gas it sounds kinda like its missing but in a different way, hard to explain.

[jej23]

it is still definitly running rich still though, i also sprayed the hell out of the aac with cleaner so i dont know how long it will take to clear out of there.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

the cleaner has no effect so dont worry about that..I would check into that fpr..also are you sure you have your fuel pump wired correctly as well as the injectors? also are you absolutely sure your timing chain is correct..20 rollers from cam dot to cam dot

[jej23]

I have not replaced the chain yet, i have just timed the two dots to the links on the cams, is this wrong or possibly off????? the fuel pump primes and definitly has pressure to the rail, and i beleive the coils are wired up right cause when the timing is really advanced it revs awesome but wont idle, so it does run on all four at certain points.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

like i said you should check into the fpr but about the timing chain..how did you know where to set it at? or did you even know that there has to be a certain amount of links in between the intake cam sprocket dot and exhaust cam sprocket dot? or did you just put the chain on however? and by the way why did you have the chain off in the first place?

[jej23]

No no i have not had the chain off, i replaced my CAS and had to retime it, so i turned over the engine until the gray links on the chain lined up with the dots on both cams at about 10 and 2 then i put the CAS in and thats all i have done and now iam where im at now hardly running. So the chain has never been off.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

you dont have to mess with the timing chain to restab the CAS. but anyways you didnt mess up your chain if it never came off so dont worry..now also how did you restab the CAS? guess or did you find information on it..because there is a specific way it has to go in

[jej23]

I lined up the chain with the marks on the cams, then i slid the cas in so that when it was in, both the little mark on the case of the CAS and the mark on the gear lined up, could it be 180 degrees out and firing the wrong cylinders???