Timing? other problems? dont know

[S13FASTBACKSR]

do you have an fsm? there is a picture that shows exactly how it should be but i'll try to explain..there is a dash that looks like this __ on your CAS that points toward the gear. then there are two dots in between that dash and the gear. The dot that is closer to the gear, line it up with the dash. Now slide the cas in and the gear should move over to where the dot that is closer to the dash is now lined up with the dash. thats how it should be set. Now i have heard that on s13 sr's the timing is indeed off by 180degrees (however i only heard this from one guy and when i restabbed my CAS i did it just like how i explained which is via the s14 sr fsm and my engine/ timing is perfectly fine

[jej23]

ok well ill just take the valve cover back off and make sure everything is done right, i know there where two marks on the gear but im not sure if they were lined up like you are saying, is it possible for me to just loosen the CAS and move to rotor a tooth or pull the valve cover??

[S13FASTBACKSR]

the only way to physically see the two dots without taking the VC off is to pull the CAS all the way out. Now line up the dot closest to the gear with the dash and then stab the CAS..it should automatically roll over to the dot closest to the dash lining up with the dash but just to be sure it does you should pull the VC off and also a plus to pulling the cover off is to see how its lined up right now..if i were you i'd pull it off the VC and look at how the CAS is lined up as of right now this way if its off you know thats your problem and if its not then thats not your problem

[jej23]

Yea no doubt that really is the only way, well ill probably go out there and do that and ill post the results of what i find. thanks for the input.

[jej23]

ok so i pulled off the valve cover and turned the motor over until the two colored links lined up with the dots on the cams, i then installed the CAS so that when it was fully in it lined up with the mark on the gear to the mark on the caseing, i then tried to start it and i got absolutley nothing but a few sputters and thats it.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

well first of all you dont have to mess with the timing chain everytime you restab the CAS..you just restab it and thats it..also the dot closest to the dash should line up with the dash in the end..is that how you have it? you can also try turing it 180degrees maybe that will work for you like it did the other guy...if this doesnt solve it change your fpr

[jej23]

alright ill try those things out.

[silentvoice71]

hey man theres a good company in ftwayne that you might call their pretty damn good with sr20dets their called autowerks. heres their number 260-483-2007. great guys BTW im from south bend. glad to see another sr owner from indiana good luck man. I would think its a spark issue maby???like maby the spark plug order is off.

[jej23]

Yes I know of this place, they were my friends at one point in time and I have worked on many of their cars on numerous occasions, and now that I need a little help they are nowhere to be found, I have a lack of respect for people that treat other people that way. Never would I recommend anyone to go there. Sorry for stepping on toes but I speak the truth.!!!!

[S13FASTBACKSR]

another thing to check into my friend is your TPS. It may be stuck at W.O.T. causing too much fuel to go in at idle.

[jej23]

how would i check that??

[S13FASTBACKSR]

well for one you can check voltage with a volt meter. you stab the positive needle into the light green wire with a red stripe (your power wire obviously) and then touch the negative to a ground..you should get .45v-.55v at idle. Now i know your car isnt holding idle so what you do is just turn the key on and test it like this. Now push the lever on the tps all the way up and when it cant go nomore you should have about 4.5v and it may be easier to have a buddy help you another set of hands is helpful sometimes with this..also you can check the resistance. With the key on check the resistance between terminal B and terminal C. Resistance at closed throttle should be approxiamately 0.7 and with the TPS lever depressed somewhat the resistance should read 0.8-5.0 and with the TPS lever fully depressed resistance should read approximately 5.0

[silentvoice71]

hmm really didnt know that they were good to me man sorry to hear that. Its rough.If its not timing and its down pertty good. Id check spark see if its good or bad.Then fuel.

[jej23]

At this point in time the timing is right on, but it still idles like crap and runs rich as hell, i will check the tps and see if that is the problem, im guessing there is no way to test the fpr except to buy another one?? thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate the input, ill do those test and get back on here.

[silentvoice71]

hey if you need a iiavc i have a extra one you can use to make sure its not yours. Infact i have 2 but i need feedback from you to make sure you a good guy.

[jej23]

Yea might need to take you up on that offer, could i get your name by chance, I know a guy near you we might know the same people.

[jej23]

ok so i turned on the ignition and then probed the green/red stripe wire and it read 5.15 volts at idle, so now i need a tps, anyone have one laying around??

[silentvoice71]

my name is Dustin Parmley man you sure thats right? that sounds extremely high.Hey man if you need to get ahold of me my number is 574-210-8887.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

ok so i turned on the ignition and then probed the green/red stripe wire and it read 5.15 volts at idle, so now i need a tps, anyone have one laying around??

First of all I thought that the engine didnt idle unless you gave it gas? so how did you get it to idle? second of all you are having misfiring/ unsmooth accleration correct? and richness? A bad IACV does not cause those problems it only causes bad idle

[jej23]

At this point in time it does idle, really badly and very rich, but it does idle, the timing is on the second mark from the right, so that is where im at. The post above said turn the ignition on and probe the green wire going to the tps to see the voltage, he said it should be like .45v to .5v well mine read 5v as soon as i touched the probe to ground, and then when i turned the throttle up it went to 5.15 and stopped at WOT.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

oh so you just had the key on? im sorry i thought you meant you had the engine running..ok do this..check resistance with the key on because i know thats how you do that..but as far as voltage i am not sure if you always get a reading of 5v with just the key on. Maybe it is supposed to read that voltage with the key on maybe not..but anyways try the voltage with the engine running and at idle see if its reading W.O.T. just to confirm if its bad or not..but also dont forget check resistance (this is with the key on not the engine running)

[jej23]

ok so i turned the ignition on and probed terminal b and c on the TPS, which im assuming was the 2nd and 3rd terminals in the sensor. and it read 7.98 and when you turn the throttle it read all the way to like 14 or so.

[S13FASTBACKSR]

b and c does not include the power wire IIRC..try both outside ones with b and see what you get. also check for voltage with the engine running.

[jej23]

I tested both wires excluding the power wire and it read the same, about 7.95 at idle all the way to like 14 or so at WOT, there are sloted holes where the tps bolts to the throttlebody would there be an adjustment or just buy a new one.?

[S13FASTBACKSR]

yes those slots are for adjustment..that 14 was with resistance correct? you should really start the engine up and check the voltage

[silentvoice71]

so man figure the problem out yet?????

[jej23]

No not yet, i put a new tps on and it did not fix the problem so i just picked up a new idel air control valve from a buddy so well see what that does, and ill keep posting.

[jej23]

New tps is in and same problem, im now thinking its the ecu, so if anyone knows where i can get an ecu for an s13 let me know i think its number 62

[S13FASTBACKSR]

enthalpy and xat sell them for 150 bucks

[doridori23]

Online to get pics, procedure, etc is http://www.heavythrottle.com/ go to the install FAQ. Even though it sounds like your set good for the timing marks.

The TPS voltages you stated was 5.15 and little change with movement of the throttle plate. If this is correct your tps is saying WOT all the time and dumping max fuel into the cylinders. The procedure s13fastback gave is correct and i sudgest double checking it before you dump cash on anything else. There are FSMs online that you can download. If you cant find one i can email you one just give me your address in a private message.

Another source could be your fuel pressure regulator. at ~20 in Hg vacuum you chould see 34psi, when not running (ie no vacuum) 43 PSi and at 10PSI boost 53 PSI. We run a 1:1 ratio on SR20s. This could be fubar and letting rail pressure stay maxed out and dumping a ton of fuel in to the cylinders (not as much as TPS being off but enough to make it idle like garbage). Lastly if all else checks out pull your injectors and fuel rail. with them hooked up to the rail and not installed in the manifold turn the key on so the fuel pump is running. If any fuel leaks out the tips they are bad. A company by the name Deutchwerks ( http://www.deatschwerks.com ) can rebuild your injectors to save you some money.