Time for new headgasket, what else is worthwhile to put in while head is off?

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
JDMSIL80
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So after 170,000 my stock HG finally gave up and coolant starting to leak on me, it is time for a new metal gasket!

I'd most likely buy the Cometic 1.2mm for $100, but someone locally also has a Tomei HG which he is asking for $300. Is it worth for the extra bucks or simply just the name?

I am also considering in ARP head studs too (SR Main Stud kit -- 202-5402), so it'll be safer to run higher boost.

What other (affordable) parts to you recommend to put in while the head is off? I'm gonna leave the bottom end stock, so Im thinking maybe a set of cams would be a good idea.

Lets hear some of your input!


Ca_Silvia
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bump, i wanna know this to my h/g is due aswell

boost_boy
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First of all, how much power are you guys trying to achieve. You don't need a metal h/g to be able to pounce at say "300+whp". If you are trying to run 20psi on stock 370s, a smic, and a T2 small series blower or even a T3 based unit, you're going to melt your pistons. Everyone's wasting their money on crap that doesn't work and no one seems to be listening to the remedy. So I say this to you two, worry about fuel management first whether it be injectors, AFM, and AFC, a standalone and injectors, or chipping along with injectors and a maf. Whatever route you choose, fuel the engine and you find the power. Starve the engine and I'll be happy to help you find a new engine .

Dee

JDMSIL80
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I should have stated in my first post, my mods are:

Power FC, FMIC, 444cc, GT28R, turbo manifold, 3" turbo-back, Blitz EBC, Z32 MAF, HKS filter.

Going to install soon: Cometic HG, ARP head studs.

Planning to buy in the future: Tomei 256 Pon Cams.

Lastly, my power goal is 350whp. Am I looking in the right direction?

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c-rad
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JDMSIL80 wrote:I should have stated in my first post, my mods are:

Power FC, FMIC, 444cc, GT28R, turbo manifold, 3" turbo-back, Blitz EBC, Z32 MAF, HKS filter.

Going to install soon: Cometic HG, ARP head studs.

Planning to buy in the future: Tomei 256 Pon Cams.

Lastly, my power goal is 350whp. Am I looking in the right direction?
If the head is off, there is no reason NOT to upgrade to a metal HG. Especially with how inexpensive the cometics are. Now if it were between a stock $30 head gasket and a Tomei $220 head gasket, there may be some room for argument. But $100 is hardly expensive as far as metal headgaskets go.

srdrps13
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ive heard a lot of negative things about the cometic headgasket.. i ordered one and canceled it... i say go the extra step and get something a little more expensive that will last with no question.. greddy, apexi, tomei HG...and would 444cc injectors push 350? i doubt it...

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c-rad
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srdrps13 wrote:ive heard a lot of negative things about the cometic headgasket.. i ordered one and canceled it... i say go the extra step and get something a little more expensive that will last with no question.. greddy, apexi, tomei HG...and would 444cc injectors push 350? i doubt it...
Oh really? What negative did you hear? Probably from people who didnt get their head and block resurfaced when it was put on. MLS gaskets need a 99.9999% perfect mating surface. That goes for all MLS gaskets, not just cometic.

srdrps13
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ive seen many posts about people with bad luck with them...

originalsin
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the downside to running a metal hg with everything else stock is you can risk blowing your rings instead of just a hg, at least thats how i see it

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c-rad
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http://suprasonic.org/HKS/hksgaskets.html

Isn't Cometic, but still a good read on why the machine work is the most important part of running an MLS gasket...

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rico05
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Replace everything that you can. Water pump and timing belt are ~$40 and ~$20 respectively. I have found that most of the coolant lines are shot, so get some 3/4 and 5/8 heater hose and new worm clamps to replace everything with. Also, any work needed to the turbo can be addressed (my oil return line was leaking @ the turbo b/c of a blown gasket) Take your time and do everything that you can.

boost_boy
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You know guys, the talk about headgaskets have been beat till death on numerous postings. A metal h/g is indeed a good buy if you have had your block decked and head resurfaced from a machine shop with really good machines. For those of you who are budgeted, are not interested in removing your blocks and are not chasing 400-500whp, i'd suggest doing something that myself, float6969, and possibly a few others have done. If you are just removing your head for servicing purposes and/or doing a light refreshening of your engine, then may I suggest this:

1. Get a stock headgasket

2. Go buy you a can of copper spray

3. Get you a set of fresh stock headbolts

4. Spray 3 nice coats of copper spray on that stock headgasket

5. Install headgasket using FSM or a manual designated for assembly of CA DOHC engines.

I can assure you of this, it will hold-up just as good as any cometic, greddy, hks or whatever MLS gasket under normal to above normal useage. If one cares to believe this, I'm using a re-used, cleaned with brake parts cleaner, dried with paper towels, sprayed with copper spray, and secured with ARP hardware headgasket and I run a wicked 15-20psi on pump gas. Gasket's holding up just fine and so is my engine.

But like C-rad said, for a $100 cometic may not be too bad a deal if you've done all the necessary deck preparations. And don't think just because you have a metal headgasket on your engine that you can just go out and turn up the boost and all is protected. Try it and once again, I'll be happy to help whomever find another engine .

Dee

JDMSIL80
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With Cometic HG and ARP head studs, what would the torque spec be?

Same as factory or something different?


boost_boy
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JDMSIL80 wrote:With Cometic HG and ARP head studs, what would the torque spec be?

Same as factory or something different?
I would safely assume around 75-85 ft/lb of torque less the sequence called for by the factory FSM whioch means no need to tighten loosen, semi-tighten, then completely tighten.

Dee

Ca_Silvia
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boost_boy wrote: You know guys, the talk about headgaskets have been beat till death on numerous postings. A metal h/g is indeed a good buy if you have had your block decked and head resurfaced from a machine shop with really good machines. For those of you who are budgeted, are not interested in removing your blocks and are not chasing 400-500whp, i'd suggest doing something that myself, float6969, and possibly a few others have done. If you are just removing your head for servicing purposes and/or doing a light refreshening of your engine, then may I suggest this:

1. Get a stock headgasket

2. Go buy you a can of copper spray

3. Get you a set of fresh stock headbolts

4. Spray 3 nice coats of copper spray on that stock headgasket

5. Install headgasket using FSM or a manual designated for assembly of CA DOHC engines.

I can assure you of this, it will hold-up just as good as any cometic, greddy, hks or whatever MLS gasket under normal to above normal useage. If one cares to believe this, I'm using a re-used, cleaned with brake parts cleaner, dried with paper towels, sprayed with copper spray, and secured with ARP hardware headgasket and I run a wicked 15-20psi on pump gas. Gasket's holding up just fine and so is my engine.



Dee
Thanks for the clarification, this route definatly seems to be the right one for me, and alot cheaper becuase i never knew you had to resurface the block too.

originalsin
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if i just do a stock hg replacement for a little refresh, can i just clean the block up with a scraped and maybe some emery cloth? and then should i take the head and get it machined or just do the same process as on the block?

boost_boy
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originalsin wrote:if i just do a stock hg replacement for a little refresh, can i just clean the block up with a scraped and maybe some emery cloth? and then should i take the head and get it machined or just do the same process as on the block?
Clean-up on aisle 18 and keep on keep'n-on. If you didn't understand that, then the answer is "Yes".........

Dee

originalsin
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yes to wat, cleaning the head myself or getting it machined

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Dattebayo
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lol @ dee's earlier post...

So, cheap gasket from courtesy nissan (or other source yet to be named), copper spray (from where again?) and BAM good low HP application gasket? I could have sworn the thread about that a long time ago was just a joke! No F*in kidding...

csudhoff
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Just stick with the cometic, do some looking around though...you should be able to pick one up for around 90.00 the HKS, apexi, tomei ones are nice but i've never had a problem with a cometic gasket, not to mention its a 1/3 of the price.

ARP head studs are a good idea as well, i am not sure if you are looking to do valvetrain right now but i would consider doing CompCams valve springs and Crower Ti Retainers wouldn't be a bad idea either. They are best bang for the buck. Cams wouldn't hurt as well as manifolds but that all comes down to budget and your goals for the car.

Not_a_sr
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Dee, no matter how many times we all say it noone is going to listen, just dont get it myself either...

Stock headgasket = a fuse. make a 30$ part your fuse instead of your pistons and rings, 400Hp should be attainable reliably on stock headgaskets, its all in the tuning and fuel management!!!!

and for that metal gasket you probably need the block and head resurfaced by the Machine shop, which means pulling the motor out completely...

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c-rad
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Not_a_sr wrote:Dee, no matter how many times we all say it noone is going to listen, just dont get it myself either...

Stock headgasket = a fuse. make a 30$ part your fuse instead of your pistons and rings, 400Hp should be attainable reliably on stock headgaskets, its all in the tuning and fuel management!!!!

and for that metal gasket you probably need the block and head resurfaced by the Machine shop, which means pulling the motor out completely...
My head and block were surfaced with a CBN cutter. I don't care if I am "ignorant", I am running a cometic anyway.

boost_boy
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originalsin wrote:yes to wat, cleaning the head myself or getting it machined
If it's not blown or smoking, clean it up yourself and keep going.

Dee

boost_boy
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2BN_S13 wrote:lol @ dee's earlier post...

So, cheap gasket from courtesy nissan (or other source yet to be named), copper spray (from where again?) and BAM good low HP application gasket? I could have sworn the thread about that a long time ago was just a joke! No F*in kidding...
Hey man, I wouldn't put it out there if I too didn't do it myself. I'm no better than anyone else around here, but I've probably blasted more engines hands down . I totally entrust in the stock headgasket and copper spray set-up as well and just reitterating it as cheap/reliable option that actually works for those who are not willing to pull there motors, tear them apart, get the head and block resurfaced just to house a metal headgasket!

Dee

boost_boy
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Not_a_sr wrote:Dee, no matter how many times we all say it noone is going to listen, just dont get it myself either...

Stock headgasket = a fuse. make a 30$ part your fuse instead of your pistons and rings, 400Hp should be attainable reliably on stock headgaskets, its all in the tuning and fuel management!!!!

and for that metal gasket you probably need the block and head resurfaced by the Machine shop, which means pulling the motor out completely...
Jon, if our members don't grasp this excellent concept, then most won't even be mediocre in their quests. It's not the boost that kills engine, but the sub-standard computer systems most live by thinking they can run big boost on an 8 bit factory system. Fuel+management+tuning= Fun on a stock headgasket.

Dee

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mikesim
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i blew my HG last september and did the copper spray and HG as well. but i failed to buy new head studs. should i worry much? they didn't look stretched.

the old HG was blown cyl 3 and 4 leaking coolant into the cylinders. compression test after HG change showed no ring damage.

top_secret
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csudhoff wrote:Just stick with the cometic, do some looking around though...you should be able to pick one up for around 90.00 the HKS, apexi, tomei ones are nice but i've never had a problem with a cometic gasket, not to mention its a 1/3 of the price.

ARP head studs are a good idea as well, i am not sure if you are looking to do valvetrain right now but i would consider doing CompCams valve springs and Crower Ti Retainers wouldn't be a bad idea either. They are best bang for the buck. Cams wouldn't hurt as well as manifolds but that all comes down to budget and your goals for the car.
who sells compcam valve springs and crower retainres for the ca18 and how much are they?

also to the last guy posting, the factory headstuds are designed to stretch when you torque them properly (torque, untorque, retorque) so they should always be replaced.

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Dattebayo
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Where in the world did you find a $30 stock gasket? The parts store is asking for $125, and other sites close...

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c-rad
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2BN_S13 wrote:Where in the world did you find a $30 stock gasket? The parts store is asking for $125, and other sites close...
$51.48 for a Fel-Pro from Advance Auto Parts.

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Dattebayo
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Hardly $30, almost twice.

/point

You almost had me there.


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