Time for more maintenance. Steering rack and A/C compressor questions.

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BLACKonBLACK98
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So I took my '90 to my (experienced) Q45 mechanic today to have a tension rod (SPL adjustable BTW ) and my A/C charged. Turned out I need a new compressor. A rare look and the undercarriage of my car revealed some destroyed rack boots as well.

I have searched and flipped through the FSM to help get a better understanding so let's keep replies to actual information or links to previous threads/posts. I have no doubt this has been covered (especially since I've seen it referenced) but I could not find it.

A/C: I will be converting to R134A. I read that some do not like this but my mechanic says the G50 takes the conversion very well and I believe him (he owns a handful of G50s and maintains more).

I have read references to the "right way" to convert but nothing specific. Any info here is appreciated.

OEM obviously being the first choice, are there any quality new/rebuilt options for a compressor? If not I will buy OEM, since I do not want a used unit, but if there are any reputable rebuilders I wouldn't mind saving a couple bucks.

Steering rack: Recommended rebuilders?

Thanks in advance fellas.


Q45tech
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The major problem with converting to R134a is the resulting 4F increase from using the R12 condenser. Receiver dryer must be changed due to different thermoswitches and changes in pressure.Depending on your location you may find this 15% loss in cooling capacity tolerable.

maxnix
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Q45tech wrote:Depending on your location you may find this 15% loss in cooling capacity tolerable.
In the houston summer swamp humidity?

Thought there was a problem with seals and lubricant also? Funny no one recalls the old Infiniti conversion kits!

Anyway, an opportunity to vacuum the system, renew lubricant and install new drier.

BLACKonBLACK98
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Q45tech wrote:The major problem with converting to R134a is the resulting 4F increase from using the R12 condenser. Receiver dryer must be changed due to different thermoswitches and changes in pressure.Depending on your location you may find this 15% loss in cooling capacity tolerable.
4f meaning 4* fahrenheit?

sounds like a horrible idea but that's how it's gonna be. and i guess i should have said "did convert" rather than "will convert" since we did a flush, recharge, and fittings today before we found the leak.

if it counts for anything it was blowing icey during the ride home today. of course summer hasn't even started yet...

BLACKonBLACK98
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OK. So I've been doing a little more research in regards to the steering rack. Wondering if any of you guys have gone outside of the OEM norm?

Me being me, I've started to look at upgraded parts for inner tie rods, outer ends, bushings, etc. Particularly across the Z chassis since that stuff seems to work.

Anyone dabbled in this kind of thing?

Q45tech
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The 240 and 300zx have narrower track width than Q so make sure everything has an extra inch + of adjustment range [1/2">3/4" per side].

BLACKonBLACK98
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Good point, that is something I have been researching this morning.

Is the track width the proper measurment to consider though? Since I will be using a G50 rack I am thinking that using inner tie rods with similar dimensions would yield proper results. Am I missing something?

What I have found so far is Z32 inners are within 2mm of G50 specs, S14 are .5"+ longer, and Z33 are a lot shorter.


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Q451990
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Is your rack confirmed leaking? It is possible that if the boots haven't been damaged too long that you can just clean everything, grease it, and put on new boots.

Heath

Q45tech
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I'm confused Mainteance usually means changing lubrication, filters, adjustments, rubber protection spray. Things you do every 90 days to prevent.Repairs or replacement occur when you replace a component which has failed or is out of spec due to age, wear, or lack of mainteance.

BLACKonBLACK98
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from the looks of it it has been busted for a while now, the car is fairly new to me as far as actually being road worthy, and this was the first time i got a goood look at the undercarriage.

honestly, i'm happy to replace it. the more stuff on the car i fix the more i feel comfortable with the car.

the question is simply what parts would be (my definition of) best. personally, i prefer quality aftermarket performance parts to oem but info is few and far between since so many prefer simple oem replacment.

BLACKonBLACK98
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Q45tech wrote:I'm confused Mainteance usually means changing lubrication, filters, adjustments, rubber protection spray. Things you do every 90 days to prevent.Repairs or replacement occur when you replace a component which has failed or is out of spec due to age, wear, or lack of mainteance.
i really doubt you are confused by such a simple concept, but point taken none the less.

i want replacments.

i use "maintenance" in refence to the car (i.e. the upkeep of my q45) rather than maintaining a specific component.

please don't try and talk to me llike i'm a dumb kid (even though i don't capitilize all the time ).

qship96
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There is a reason why most prefer genuine OEM parts on the Q45, spend some time reading old posts to gain tons of knowledge for free.

BLACKonBLACK98
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You are correct. There is a reason most prefer OEM parts, in fact there's at least a couple. One of them being they are frequently superior. That's why I have 8 new OEM injectors, a slew of hoses, etc. Another reason, which I know because I have read pages and pages of previous posts across several different forums/sub-forums, is simply because they are OEM.

To elaborate, we all know that the Q45 forum is a shrine to Niisan's engineering excellence. However, if I wander over to the S or Z chassis forum (which I obviously did) I find OEM tie rods to be commonly replaced with aftermarket products because the OEM are not strong enough. So, if I'm spending money either way, wouldn't I be stupid not to at least consider doing something similar?

I'm not going to take it too personally, that would be like getting mad I got burnt when I touched a glowing stovetop but, like I said, I did search, I did read, yet I did not find anything pertaining to the subject (steering rack modifications in particular). If you could be so kind as to point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. If you are just generally pushing the "read the FSM/read the old posts/ OEM or die" mindstate then thanks but I was already aware.

I have made peace with the fact that I am going to have to spend $700 on a new OEM compressor. $1100 for a rack, however, I can not do, so seeing as I am going to have to buy a rebuilt one why not see whats out there as far as upgrades? SPL tie rod ends are on the list regardless because I need them. I'll probably pick up some poly rack bushings cause they're cheap and why not? So that leaves me with inner tie rods up in the air.
Modified by BLACKonBLACK98 at 3:07 PM 4/22/2009

Q45tech
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If the pinion gear or rack gears are not worn and sloppy...............all that can go wrong with a rack is the seals. FSM explains how and what you need. Disaasemble clean and rebuild with oem parts.http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf20340.htm

BLACKonBLACK98
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I saw that when I was reading the steering section in the FSM. Definitely looks easy enough however I am not in the position to have the car torn down while I rebuild the rack.

Thanks though guys. I think I got what I needed.
Modified by BLACKonBLACK98 at 3:46 PM 4/22/2009

Epod
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I found this vender from reading Q45.org -

http://www.rackdoctor.net/

the folks here seemed happy with their product, on the whole.

I've had one of their racks on my 98 Q for a few weeks, and it seems to do the job.

My Q is just a daily driver; it's not doing light-speed maneuvers on a track or in street races, nor is it involved in "Rockford Files" reenactments.

.

BLACKonBLACK98
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thanks for the recomendation. they are on my list of possible vendors.

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Q451990
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So is the rack actually leaking, or are the boots just torn?

If it's not leaking, I would absolutely lean toward cleaning, changing the boots, replacing the mount bushings, and calling it good.

A remanufactured rack may be more worn than yours... I went through this with my Mom's Maxima several years back. NTB was not happy that they sold me a rack with a lifetime warranty. They swaped in two or three "remanufactured" units before we found one that didn't have excessive slop in the gears.

Heath

BLACKonBLACK98
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i'd be lying if i said i knew that it was leaking 100%. i saw the boots, and one of the mechanics looked at it and said it was bad. i did not lay eyes on it myself, but i take my car to them because i trust them.

i contacted meridian and will be using them for a rebuilt rack, compressor, and drier.

i will be purchasing tie rod ends, z33 tein tie rods, and urethane rack bushings from spl.


qship96
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Good luck with that third party rebuilt a/c compressor- history shows them to be short lived compared to the original.

BLACKonBLACK98
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so i've heard, but i hear a lot of things. we'll see what happens.

maxnix
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qship96 wrote:Good luck with that third party rebuilt a/c compressor- history shows them to be short lived compared to the original.
Well, at least we know the original compressor can go 19 years.

Will the aftermarket one out live me?

BLACKonBLACK98
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ended up going with rich aka "the rack doctor" for the rebuilt rack. obviously i haven't received anything yet but i am pretty confident thus far. he was great to talk to, and very in touch with the modifying community. he knew everything i wanted to do before i said it and is actually assembling my rack with the aftermarket parts which i had spl ship directly to him.

BLACKonBLACK98
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got my rack and whatnot today, should go in tomorrow.



rack doctor rebuild w/ tein z33 inners, spl outers, es bushings.

guess i got lucky cause my a/c just never stopped blowin cold. i dunno but until it's broken i'm not gonna fix it.

qship96
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What, if any, advantage do the Tein and Spl bits have over the stock parts?

maxnix
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Looks like sherical bearings at the end.

BLACKonBLACK98
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this is what i came up with after doing some research and 1+1in':

the tein z33 rods 1) are much beefier and 2) provide increased steering angle. the benefits here are questionable but i figured if i'm spendin money anyway...

the spl tie rod ends offer more articulation as well as spacers since my car is so low.

silkysmoothyjud
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OK, I may be going out on a limb here, but I fixed my rack for about 15 bucks with lucas stop leak (2k at plaza motors), jumpered my "seized" compressor at the relay with speaker wire for free (1200$ plaza) did my rack boots (ordered from Joe) with a flame and a life alignment at firestone for about 100 bucks (500$ at the stealership the notorious PLAZA) all with help from threads on this site. I did not really read this thread that much, but Ive read a lot of other ones. Who needs a mechanic. I call plaza just for laughs. They charge 150 an HOUR! THOSE BASTARDS

Romeo5k
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BLACKonBLACK98 wrote:
4f meaning 4* fahrenheit?

sounds like a horrible idea but that's how it's gonna be. and i guess i should have said "did convert" rather than "will convert" since we did a flush, recharge, and fittings today before we found the leak.

if it counts for anything it was blowing icey during the ride home today. of course summer hasn't even started yet...
Congrats on ur conversion... the 134 wont hurt anything.. u really wont even feel the difference... Hell.. I did it on my 93, and i was still cool.. I kept my ac on 77 with just me in the car..

BLACKonBLACK98
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77 in houston is nuts... i start at 68 then raise to 72 after it cools down.

didn't see your q when i had randy put in my rack. it's usually always there.


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