yodawill2000 wrote:A mechanics Stethoscope can pin point where the sound is from.
In a pinch a 3 foot piece of tubing will do.
That's the exact one I use.jertapper wrote:yodawill2000 wrote:A mechanics Stethoscope can pin point where the sound is from.
In a pinch a 3 foot piece of tubing will do.
Sounds like a good place to start.
Is this one good enough? 3 bucks is cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechanics- ... 41966.html
If an oil change (with that specific oil) causes the ticking to go away, what does that mean was wrong to cause it in the first place?GerryO wrote:Try adding half a quart of Castrol 20/50 synthetic blend motor oil when the engine is cold, and before letting the engine slowly warm up while running at idle speed.
If that does the trick, fully convert at the next filter and oil change.
jertapper wrote:Awesome pictures. I hate looking back and seeing mistakes I made in my younger, more ignorant days. I did the timing belt myself years ago because it had never been done since I owned it (and ever before afaik) and I started to get scared and didn't know about those seals and VTC spring o-rings
A few of the photos are from here:
http://www.z32photoguide.com/
I think I could pull the plenum and I don't think replacing the valve gaskets would be too hard for me...but I wonder just how long it would take and if I could get it back together again. I would want to at least do all the things that someone does when they have the plenum off and are thinking ahead and being smart (like I wasn't when I did the timing belt). It's a big list of stuff to buy and get and do and I would be without a car for a while. It's a tough decision. I work slow and bending over a car doesn't agree with my back for long days. I'm strangely attached to this car though. If I had temporary transportation I think I'd do it.
I was unemployed when I did my timing belt and related items work, and shortly after completion an injector failed, so I chose to pull the plenum to replace all of them, along with some other things, including the TB heating delete. I removed most of the front the car to get it up on ramps for the timing belt work. A lot of debris was trapped in front of the radiator and inside the fan shroud.
I would do the water line delete for sure.I would need to replace a lot of fuel hose and vacuum hose and add new water hoses. I'm not sure what else would need to be done but I don't want to miss anything like I did back when I did the timing belt. Anything else that could be recommended would be helpful. I will have to carefully plan everything I would need and price it out to help me determine whether to do it or not.
The plenum goes on a lot easier than it comes off, especially after deleting the water lines, but all instructions have you delete more than is best. I left as many metal tubing lines as possible and still need to replace the Idle Air Adjusting unit heating line that I removed (it's probably more important for AT equipped cars than it is for those with a MT).
I still need to replace several old hoses with silicone hoses and it really helps to have help with plenum re-install positioning, to avoid damaging any gaskets.
I did some searching and found this: http://www.thedevilsz.com/site/technica ... m_pull.pdf
It has some good information and mentions these things that you might also want to do:
-chroming/powercoating/polishing the plenum
-porting the upper plenum chamber
-replacing or eliminating the throttle body bypass hoses
-replacing the Idle Air Adjusting unit (and gasket)
-upgrading fuel injectors
-replacing the lower fuel lines (or all the fuel lines)
-PCV valve and hose replacement
-fuel filter replacement
The things in bold all sound like things I would want to do. Anything else?
Does it make sense to remove the EGR stuff completely (I'm not in a state with emmissions checks)? I'm all for simplification and more engine bay space.
A working EGR system sounds like a good thing to me, as it provides protection against pre-ignition. Cleaning the IAC unit and it's component parts should be enough. I'm not a gun owner, but found that an inexpensive pistol cleaning kit helps.
http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech.html
http://home.swipnet.se/e-solutions/IdleTech2.html
Watch out for razor sharp plenum edges and mold flash. My EGR tubes were clogged.
How's that ticking sound, since the oil change?
Never overheated. The reservoir just gets low over time. It might even be evaporation in there. I only fill it up a bit maybe quarterly.GerryO wrote:There are tests for coolant in the oil and oil in the coolant, compression tests and many coolant leak possibilities. No overheating, I hope?
I already dug at one of them. I have never done this before so at first I thought it was clogged at the top. Then I realized it was solid metal there so I went looking for a hole on the side and couldn't find it. Then I saw where it wasn't flush and sure enough solid black material was giving way. SOOOOOOOOOOO clogged. The other one has a tiny little hole. it was dark last night I'll go take some pics now that it's light.Junya wrote:im planning on doing my EGR de-clog after finals. take some pics! im sure we would like to see them.
jertapper wrote:Here are the pics of the VTC solenoids. Wet and with the wires cut off. Is that strange or what?
http://home.comcast.net/~jtapper01/vtc_driver_side.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~jtapper01/vtc_ ... r_side.JPG