Thoughts on replacing fuelpump controller with a rotory switch.

[mattd1979]

I was thinking about ridding the fuel pump controller and using a rotary selector switch to manually select the 3 speeds for the fuel pump. I was thinking about placing it on the center console. Wanting to get some opinions and suggestions. Maybe use the kick down switch on the throttle to activate the full speed part of the pump and just use a toggle switch for low and medium speeds.

[Q451990]

I can't imagine having to continually mess with a switch to control the fuel pump's function... not to mention designing the oscilators or resistors or whatever will reduce the pump's speed in the two slower modes. Even if you had such a setup, I don't know that the driver would be able to control the optimal speed of the pump anywhere close to the ECU.

It would be about as bad as hooking a choke cable to the EGR and trying to pull it open during crusing RPMs...

Heath

[Skibane]

IMO, your efforts would be better spent on (1.) replacing the fuel filter on a regular basis, and (2.) replacing an old fuel pump before it smokes the FPCU.

[elwesso]

i agree. If you have enough skill to make that work, then you might as well just resolder the joint that commonly fails on the FPCU.. In most cases, its just that one that breaks..

[Q45tech]

In 20 years I've replaced fuel pumps twice, fuel filters 12 times and FPCU once.

I always carry a new pump and a repaired FPCU as part of my out of state travel gear in trunk. Not wanting to deal with the possibility/time of having someone UPS me parts I already have in home inventory.Same with ecu, tcu, injectors, maf, cas, tps.

Things that might be damaged in junkyards.

I equate the cost of flatbedding my Q back to ATL vs miles I drive away from home vs parts I carry.

I have arrangements with ATL JDM suppliers to ship transmissions or engine as necessary.

You can always rent a lift and tools from somebody in some town.

Knowledge is something you always carry with you!

The Boy Scout Motto is "BE PREPARED".

The fuel pump draws 8 amperes so any resistors would need to be 110 watt units to avoid overheating.

[mattd1979]

Here are the pictures of the two fuel pump controllers. The one on the right was in my car and the one on the left was supposed to be a working spare. As you can see the ground terminal on the one on the right had gotten hot and so I did re-solder the terminal so that isn't the problem now and I didn't see any signs of the transistors getting got. IE: No signs of the solder melting nor the circuits them selfs getting over heated. The one on the left looks like new inside, especially the connector, and I didn't find any problems with the solder there either. I added the wire to it before I hooked it up just to help spread the load a little better.







I mentioned in the other thread that I posted in IOM that the fuel pump and controller both came out of a 1995 Q that we had for parts and it had somewhere around 60K on it. When my fuel pump went bad, I pulled the controller and pump from that car and put in mine. The pump sounds as good today as it did when I put it in, practically silent.

As far as fuel filter goes, I do all my service on a regular basis so, no problems there.

[PyR0NiAk]

I see NO pictures..

[Infinitiguy19]

I always carry a new pump and a repaired FPCU as part of my out of state travel gear in trunk. Not wanting to deal with the possibility/time of having someone UPS me parts I already have in home inventory.Same with ecu, tcu, injectors, maf, cas, tps.

I will upload pictures of 5 G50 brochures that I got today, for ONE picture of your trunk, Maybe your car too. What do you say?

Matt see this: zerothread/329228

[mattd1979]

Check again, You should see them now.