The time has come. Help me! (WD, GTF in here!)

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Okay, I've finally got enough money to start my KA-T build but I'm stuck on what to do. But I'll lay down some things I do know that I want and am going to get. This will be for a single cam btw and the engine is already in the car and running good.

-Must be a T3 flanged turbo
-FMIC is going in
-Engine stays in car
-I keep my A/C

Okay, with that done, here's what I'm stuck on. I've got two options, piece together my own kit, or of course the CX Racing kit. I've been quoted at a local 350z shop (they have a guy that knows KA-Ts) for $1500 installed as far as the CX Racing kit. That probably doesn't include the fuel pump but does include the kit and oil pan bung.

OR, I can piece together my own kit. I found a manifold which many of you sohc guys have probably heard of. It's the Gladman manifold shown HERE: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SOHC-KA2 ... 63wt_1165"

It seems to be of good quality and he has a solid reputation on http://www.ka-t.org.

My question about my own kit though is how should I deal with the wastegate? The manifold comes with an additional wastegate flange for an extra $50. Should I get a turbo with an internal wastegate? Also VERY important, which turbo should I go with if I do end up piecing together my own kit? The whole point of doing this would be to bypass the usage of an ebay turbo/wastegate. I hear Holsets are solid but I have no idea where to start as with any other turbo. It needs to be reliable as this is my only car and daily driver.

Finally, the tune. If I went in favor of the CX kit, I'd definitely be running an FMU or fpr. But if I piece together my own, would it be in my budget to get a REAL tune, such as using SR injectors or whatever?

ANY and all imput is appreciated but solid first hand experience would be fantastic. If you have anything to add or links to post up, please do as I need all the info I can get. Thanks guys.

[AZhitman]

Get your butt over here so I can show you what a budget build turns into.

Engine won't stay in the car, you do need a wastegate, SR injectors will do you no good, and you will need a REAL engine management system.

A $1500 installed system is a big box of shortcuts and junk, it's asking for trouble, and your engine is questionable to begin with.

I did it wrong twice. I did it RIGHT the 3rd time. Almost $10K later, it's beautifully reliable, but you'd better double that budget (and find something to drive when it's down).

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Damn it Greg! I was getting my hopes up.

As far as the engine......I trust it, lol. It's taken its fair share of abuse and hasn't let me down. The transmission is getting rebuilt though. It runs quite well.

And yeah, I really DON'T want to use that CX garbage. But I am somewhat confident that I can get a decent kit going for that price. I mean, I don't want to do it quite as ghetto as Aaron, but mild enough to where it's good enough.....for now.

Or there's always a swap. Wouldn't take me too terribly long to save up for one........

[AZhitman]

I'm just saying (and some will argue)... A good manifold is $400. Yeah, I know, blah blah blah my egay manifold has held up for 250,000 miles blah blah blah. No.

A good turbo is gonna run you a minimum of $600. You're not gonna want some tiny lame one on a KA, so the money has to be spent.

Every kit I've seen has crap connectors and crap clamps, so those gotta be replaced. Good silicone couplers and clamps will cost you $200 easily.

Intercooler? Sure, go ebay for that. I'm not convinced that a $1,200 Greddy is a thousand dollars better than a $200 one.

Fuel pump is $100.

There's your $1500 - Gone.

We haven't even gotten to relocating your battery, routing your IC pipes around the A/C, buying and installing gauges, engine management, tuning, injectors, plugs, a BOV, a FPR, downpipe, MAF, filter, hoses, fluids...

This is how it gets out of hand:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nico-p ... art-7.html

[AZ89two4Tsx]

The Gladman whatever manifold seems to be the same quality as the JGS. Maybe not the design shape wise, but the construction seems to be on par. Much better than CX crap for sure.

Also, I want to do the FMU thing for a bit. I mean, it should last a couple months at least right? That's all it would take me to have enough cash. Some use it as a permanent solution but I see it as temporary until you get a real tune.

As far as the turbo, the Holsets look interesting. If they come with an internal wastegate, they seem like a winner to me.

Intercooler....ebay has one for $300 for the single cam. Looks like it easily clears the A/C. I think it comes with a downpipe.

Manifold ---> Turbo ---> Fuel pump ---> FMU ---> Intercooler ---> Misc stuff

$200 + $500 + 100 + 100 + 300 + $300 = $1500

Idk, that's just ballpark. I'm still brainstorming right now on what I want to do. The money is basically there, I just need to make a decision.

[Chris28]

Don't listen to Greg, he doesn't know what he's talking about!


But really unless you always want to be wanting something more, do what the boss man says. JGS Manifold and a legit t3/t4 turbo, minimum of 550cc injectors, and a proper management system. If I were in your position I'd do a ROM tune for your setup, then later on down the road get some sort of other management system.

Or you could cheap out and go bottom mount t2 setup, but you'll get tired of that VERY fast.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

I only want to run about 8lbs or so to start off with. I need to drive this everyday and that will be PLENTY in an s-chassis, especially for me right now.

I just want to get the ball rolling and leave room to upgrade later down the road. A T2 turbo is out of the question.

[DevilMB3017]

What is your actual budget?

One thing virtually everyone in this section will back is JGS Tools: http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html

There is a KA24E starter package down a bit. $1746, includes the following: KA24E turbo manifold
AGP .50 Trim T3/T04E Turbo
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24E downpipe and wg pipe set
T3 mounting studs
JGS KA24E oil feed & return line kit
Turbo cement
EGR Plug
Exhaust wrap for downpipe

Add in a fuel pump, injectors (Cheaper on the KA24E actually), a tune, IC and piping and some exhaust pieces and your done.

Listen to Greg though. You will probably need another car, if you think this will take 2 weeks it'll take 2 months. If you think it will take 5K it'll be 7K+. Double, triple, and even 10x what you think thinks are. Learn from our mistakes... lol

[WDRacing]

What is your actual budget?

One thing virtually everyone in this section will back is JGS Tools: http://jgsturbo.com/index2.html

There is a KA24E starter package down a bit. $1746, includes the following: KA24E turbo manifold
AGP .50 Trim T3/T04E Turbo
JGS400 Wastegate
KA24E downpipe and wg pipe set
T3 mounting studs
JGS KA24E oil feed & return line kit
Turbo cement
EGR Plug
Exhaust wrap for downpipe

Add in a fuel pump, injectors (Cheaper on the KA24E actually), a tune, IC and piping and some exhaust pieces and your done.

Listen to Greg though. You will probably need another car, if you think this will take 2 weeks it'll take 2 months. If you think it will take 5K it'll be 7K+. Double, triple, and even 10x what you think thinks are. Learn from our mistakes... lol

What he said If you do choose the Gladman, which is also a good mani, you'll have to have a custom downpipe fabbed up.

Greg mentioned the major issues with all Chinese kits, everyone knows I don't think they are even worth trying. Yes you get loads of parts for almost no money...whats wrong with that picture? Some guys have had some really good luck with those turbo's...but I'm not giving it the WD seal of approval. I'd WAY rather have a used Holset or brand name turbo. The reason being, they are balanced from the factory, China don't balance. Take a shaft, put 2 different weight wheels on either end and spin it to 60,000 rpm without balancing it. It's a recipe for disaster IMO.

With that said, anyone that says you need 10K to boost a 240 is a retarded crack weasel

The FMU and base timing retard is a pretty dependable method to run 8 psi. Make sure the FMU is a 6:1, anything more is to rich. DON'T forget to retard the base timing 2-3 degree's. If the engine is in good shape and you keep the underhood temps down with heat wrap and upgrade your cooling system there is no reason the engine won't run forever. You can't change your oil to many times either, in fact I've gotten in the habit of swapping my oil filter in between oil changes. To cheap not to do IMHO. BTW, you can use Super Tech Synthetic oil from wally world, it's cheap and works pretty damn good as good as the name brands IMO. Unless you're running Redline/Amsoil/Royal Purple then just use a cheap Synthetic.

How many miles are on the oil pump? I'm using a high mileage motor myself, but I swapped out the important stuff, like the water pump and oil pump and tensioner. My last KA unassed itself because I lost oil pressure and tossed a rod before I could even diagnose the problem. That was just cruising down the highway at 70, not even boosting.

What are you using for a clutch? 8 psi will overpower your factory clutch pretty quickly.

What I would do.

JGS SOHC kit with the T3/TO4 .48AR hotside. You won't need the .63 unless you're aiming for more then 400whp. Ebay FMIC, Summit Racing battery relocation kit, FMU, 255lph pump. If the oil pump has lots of miles on it, change it out. Clutch kit from SPEC if you don't have a aftermarket unit already.

That's a bare bones build. Unless you can weld you can't really do it any cheaper. Start saving for bigger injectors, maf and tune to match. Be prepared to drop $1500 on good injectors, fuel rail, MAF and a tune/retune to get it just right.

My personal build is done ultra cheap but I fabbed my own mani, downpipe, fuel rail, fmic piping and I'm using left over parts from other projects. I'm doing it cheap because I've been down the road a few times. Cheap isn't for everyone and quite often it bites people right in the wallet. Keep it slow and don't take short cuts.

Boost is more addictive then cocaine...I've done both and I come back to boost every time You're going to get bitten by the boost bug as soon as you feel that turbo spool up for the first time and you get pushed back in the seat a little. Don't turn it up. Don't even buy a boost controller until you have everything else upgraded.

Greg did say something that I totally agree with, having a spare daily beater to drive when your 240 is broken or just down for maintenance is an excellent idea. If you have a spare you won't be so apt to take short cuts.

PS, make sure to have $300 just for things that break and or require replacing. Stuff adds up quick so don't even start until you have everything you think you need all sitting in your garage, then be prepped to hit Autozone a few times for all the stuff you forgot

WD

[DevilMB3017]

Psst: WD... He's using a single slammer. He won't need the fuel rail. And his injectors are cheap Summit Racing units if he wants. Stupid Nissan making their "bad" motor top feed...

[Razi]

What are you using for a clutch? 8 psi will overpower your factory clutch pretty quickly.

WD

Haha I remember the first highway run with my dad in the car.
Slipped my clutch the moment I floored it in 3rd.

Also Christian, SR injectors won't work on your SOHC, you use topfeed injectors, SR and KA-DE injectors are sidefeed.

Also, +1 for the JGS kit.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

OMG, thanks for the info guys.

About the JGS kit, I never realized the $1700 was WITH the turbo/wastegate. It's really not THAT far off what I want to spend and I know the parts will be FAR superior.

As far as the clutch, the transmission is getting dropped to get rebuilt or at least get new syncros. The clutch/pressure plate will be replaced and anything else needed.

And as far as a daily beater, my dad has a second car that works perfectly. I end up driving it whenever I work on my car.
.
.
.
I'm not sure how many miles are on the oil pump. The motor was rebuilt like 60K ago but I don't know if they replaced the pump. Would it be cheap insurance to just replace it? They're like $80.

[WDRacing]

I would definitely replace it.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

I broke down the setup to a ballpark price.

JGS kit - $1700
Intercooler - $300
FMU - $100
Fuel pump - $100
Gauges and misc - $150
transmission rebuild/clutch - $700

It's gonna be a little over 3K. See any way I can save some money? I'm not sure how much the transmission fix is gonna cost.

For that, I could probably get an SR swap installed.

[TurboSauce]

ESSSAR.
and make more power :

[TurboSauce]

SR20DET-
Pros:
-JDM Tyte
-Already turboed from the factory
-Better aftermarket support
-Lighter
-Better high-end
-Easier swap

Cons:
-Electrical work
-You have no idea what the condition of the engine is in
-Replacement parts are harder to find

KA24D/ET-
Pros:
-Low-end Torque
-Engines/parts are easier to find
-Cheaper
-No harness work

Cons:
-Custom work needed (oil bung, downpipe)
-Heavier
-Harder to do/additional knowledge needed


But whatever you do I salute you Christian! Good Luck.
you're gonna need it

[TurboSauce]

This is how it gets out of hand:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nico-p ... art-7.html

Pics no worky......

[AZ89two4Tsx]

If I was to do the SR swap, I would drop in the engine (after "freshening" it up) and then get all the electrical done at my local shop. No way I want to mess with the harness. I mean I could and it wouldn't be too terrible, but the dude I know can do it with his eyes closed.

And "cheaper" is all about the deals you can find, that is if you're getting something used. All the KA-T stuff is basically going to be brand new since the sohc requires sohc parts.

[Romeo_rus]

I'd and did...
manifold is the hardest thing to find good (fitment...) ?????
you use top feed injectors (size depends on your goals) $300
turbo (I used 2 eGay turbos (1 rb25det and 1 on my KA) non of them failed, but next my car will have 2jz or rb26dett (as soon as sell my car, already got a shell) and HOLSET turbo - good turbo and inexpensive $300
walbro 255 - must have $100
CX Racing intercooler kit - way to go $250
wastegate - tial or JGS - $230
any muffler shop can make a downpipe and exhaust - $450
FMU - 100
BOV (get a good one and recirculate it) $170
JGS or ATP turbo lines - $150
get a wideband - MUST HAVE $200
CLUTCH ????
spark plugs - $50
......

[AZhitman]

I only want to run about 8lbs or so to start off with... that will be PLENTY in an s-chassis, especially for me right now.

I remember when I used to say stupid stuff like that...

JFWY little buddy.

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Greggers, Bex wanted me to ask you how much you would let your KA setup go for. I remembered you saying something about a N/A build so.........

[DevilMB3017]

If your looking to save some money, why not get a junkyard trans?

There's no reason a trans from a car that hasn't been beat on too bad won't be fine for a while, and probably only like $100-200. I do believe KA trans are all compatible with each other IIRC.

[SiDwAyZ240]

Hey AZ89 if you decide on 370cc for now, I have some brand new RC's with clips you can have for $150/shipped.

[Agent]

I have been piecing my kit together for about a year now. You gotta really work ebay/craigslist/nico forums. Do a lot of research because planning and learning in text is cheap. Some deals I got

$250 HX35 with 80k on it
$200 1000cc injectors
$350 nistune ecu with license
$180 LM-1 wideband

You just really have to shop hard. I am up to about $1400 and I still need the intercooler system, oil cooler system, camshafts, wastegate, headgasket and studs and I am building my own manifold since the holset is a twin scroll.

[Florida240sx]

Why are you rebuilding the transmission? A used transmission can be had for $100, clutch $400. $500
Get one of the revhard/gladman mani's. $300
Custom downpipe $100
Tial wastegate $200
FMIC Kit $200 +$50 for misc
Bov $150
Turbo $600
Oil Line $100
Fuel pump $100
Boost and oil gauge $100
Then engine management, safc, fmu, injectors whatever you go with
Then misc fitting clamps vacuum hoses radiator fluid, oil etc. $100
Maybe electric fans? $100
Everythign can be found at discount used or bought then needed to sell. But's thats just a rough idea of what it turns into.
The IAP complete kit I bought, I dumped another 1k into getting things driveable and safe

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Update, I'm gettting a used SR trans. I'm having it installed along with the clutch at the local 240 garage.

Do you guys have suggestions as far as clutches? I'm probably gonna take a chance with the CX kit and install it myself. I just didn't wanna mess with the transmission as that would be a pain in the a**.

Also, do you think a wideband is necessary?

[Florida240sx]

I got a stage 3 exedy kit of ebay. Been in my s14 boosting 7psi for a couple months now, and he beats the h3ll out of the car. So far no problems and grabbed good since day one. I had a rps in mine that i loved

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Okay, I've got the funds and am gonna start ordering parts.

What ratio FMU should I go with? 8:1?

[esahuque]

6:1

[WDRacing]

6:1

THIS ^^^