Uh, his car was probably slightly overheating, and the CTS was thus richening his fuel mixture, that's why the "hot" runs have an erratic curve. If I had to guess, I'd say he's probably running advanced timing, and imagine it would do the same regardless of the exhaust. You'll notice the first run on both stock and 3" exhaust have the exact same shaped curve.Bigvinnie wrote:The one thing I have noticed on 3" exhaust on a stock trim KA engine is that the Torque band is scattered and isn't very smooth, for example jump to this fresh alloy link http://forums.freshalloy.com/u...&vc=1. It looks like gains on the Dyno, but Alex even claims that he ran the engine cold, he states that HP and torque dropped when the engine was warm. It's not that relative in showing gains, but was an example that the KA does need a larger exhaust than stock OEM.
awesome answer, im sorry if i seemed rude in my previous post, had you not posted this i would have felt justified in my doing so, but your reply was very well thought out and deserves to be recognized as such. its just you see so many guys not reading other peoples posts and talking like they know everything and whatever anyone else says is totally wrong since their friend who works at a shop told them so. anyways, good reply, good points, much respect to youBigvinnie wrote:The one thing I have noticed on 3" exhaust on a stock trim KA engine is that the Torque band is scattered and isn't very smooth It's not that relative in showing gains, but was an example that the KA does need a larger exhaust than stock OEM.Typically the KA exhaust ports arent ported to that of your average Nasport engine that has significant porting as well as higher lift and duration cams as well as larger fuel dumping to compliment the porting, and higher redlines.I find it extremely unecesarry to compliment a 3" exhaust especially when the KA is only using the sucking potential of a 60mm TB as well. The purpose of tuning the exhaust is to compliment the engine. From the cams, to the TB and even any possible headwork that is done. I think the exhaust should be used in such a manner to fine tune a equal Balance of HP/Torque ratio.An exhaust is typically used in a method of scavaging "NOT BACK PRESSURE" to regulate the power band or power output of the engine. Smaller diameters to compliment torque while larger diameters are to compliment HP.This would be as if it was the same debate over what header is better 4-2-1 or the 4-1. This will always be a never ending debate. All tuners chose to use there own savy to make there own engine design. All characteristics of each tuner are different as well as the scope of there engine....I leave with this note, bigger is not always best suited for all engine applications.
I actually did read everyones post and I agree with Scooby...The KA should deserve a 3" exhaust, but in my opinion, not in stock trim.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 11:01 PM 8/20/2005
Modified by Bigvinnie at 11:08 PM 8/20/2005
There was nothing wrong with the car.... He mentions nothing of the ECU throwing codes....It's very simple, as the egr valve opens and tempratures rise in NOX, HP is decreased, as it goes through the intake mani.That is why you are told, "NOT" to run the engine cold on the dyno, it gives false results.....InsanityInc wrote:
Uh, his car was probably slightly overheating, and the CTS was thus richening his fuel mixture, that's why the "hot" runs have an erratic curve. If I had to guess, I'd say he's probably running advanced timing, and imagine it would do the same regardless of the exhaust. You'll notice the first run on both stock and 3" exhaust have the exact same shaped curve.
You do realize you have no ****ing clue what an EGR system does, right? It lowers NOx by reducing combustion chamber temperatures, as NO and NO2 are formed by reacting the oxygen and nitrogen inherent in the atmosphere, but the reaction requires a very, very high activation energy (high heat in the combustion chamber). By recirculating exhaust gas you reduce the amount of power the engine is making by diluting the intake charge, hence LESS temperature, not more, and therefore less NOx emissions. Not to mention it opens at 2000rpm regardless of engine temperature, so you're wholly and completely wrong. Good job.Bigvinnie wrote:There was nothing wrong with the car.... He mentions nothing of the ECU throwing codes....It's very simple, as the egr valve opens and tempratures rise in NOX, HP is decreased, as it goes through the intake mani.That is why you are told, "NOT" to run the engine cold on the dyno, it gives false results.....
I never said you were wrong.........Like I said before you can select your own diameter based on the way you tune your engine. If 3" is what you like that is fine with me or anybody else.I do know how the EGR sysem works, that is also why I use EGR block off to gain HP..........InsanityInc wrote:
Do some research before telling me I'm wrong, it'll save me a lot of ****ing time.
Quote »It's very simple, as the egr valve opens and tempratures rise in NOX, HP is decreased[/quote]Based on that completely nonsensical statement, I have to disagree with the assertion that you know how an EGR system works.Bigvinnie wrote:I never said you were wrong.........Like I said before you can select your own diameter based on the way you tune your engine. If 3" is what you like that is fine with me or anybody else.I do know how the EGR sysem works, that is also why I use EGR block off to gain HP..........
No, it wouldn't. That's my damn point. The curve was not smooth on the subsequent runs because his car was overheating, causing the ECU to richen his fuel mixture. It had nothing to do with the 3" exhaust.Bigvinnie wrote:This can be a never ending debate, then I should of also expressed the difference between open and closed loops, and the difference in A/F ratio as well. But the fact is I don't have all day to tell you what exhaust is better.........I was just using an example with those dyno graphs........I think with smaller diamter pipe the graph would of been SMOOTHER.
Well in that case I was gonna go with the 3 inch and if I found it too loud would just go get a resonater. All you guys are giving me lots of info and things to consider. I saw on that post about aftermarket exhausts the other day some of you folks rides and I really like the look of the Apexi N1. As for the hum I might hear with 3 inches I'm used to that. I used to drive my dads '92 fairlady Z32 TT with even bigger exhaust. Any way the stereo in my S14 will drown out the hum.ddgsxr504 wrote:Well aside from all the bantering about who knows what about damn EGR valves , a 3" exhaust will work on your KA. I have a 3" Apexi N1 on my S14 and it runs great. I also have a hotshot header and 3" test pipe where the cat used to be. A 3" does not affect your power negatively, actually it gives you more power higher in the RPM band. I ran my car on a dyno with the stock exhaust and then with the 3" Apexi unit. The low-midrange power loss was almost visibly non-existent. You will lose a pony or two on the low end but you will also make anywhere from 10-15+ hp on the high end depending on other mods you may have. As for it being too loud my car sounds great at idle and is not that loud at WOT. The only downside is you get a slight hum inside the cabin while driving but that is only when you have the windows up. The best way to beat this is by buying a good unit such as HKS, Apexi, Greddy, Espiler or the like. The only reason that most "ricey" imports sound like they are about to blow up doing 35mph is because they have some cheap a$$ exhaust. Like you have heard before you get what you pay for.